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THROUGH JUBALAND 

TO THE 

LORIAN SWAMP 




A Typical Bush Somali 

.,nJ^^\V-^r^lV"']-i ''''°';^^ '^^ ,'"''"°' °J J"^?'?"d '" ="d'«'= search of water and pasture for their 
restless ^ife ""' ""^ '"'' P"" °"'^ '" '"■"■'^' ='"'^ freedom only in a 



THROUGH 

JUBALAND 

TO THE 

LORIAN SWAMP 

AN ADVENTUROUS JOURNEY OF EXPLORATION 6^ SPORT 

IN THE UNKNOWN AFRICAN FORESTS d^ DESERTS OF 

JUBALAND TO THE UNEXPLORED LORIAN SWAMP 



BY 

I. N. DRACOPOLI 



WITH 44 ILLUSTRATIONS &- 2 MAPS 



PHILADELPHIA 
J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY 

LONDON : SEELEY, SERVICE &-> CO. LD. 
1914 



tK 






•i-C^fi'C 






y 



THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED TO 

MY MOTHER 

TO WHOSE ENCOURAGEMENT AND HELP 
I OWE EVERYTHING. 



" Alors il se rappela de ces strophes du po^te : 
" Pars, ami, quitte tout et pars ! Tu trouveras 

bien d'autres amis que ceux que tu laisses. Va ! 

sors des maisons et dresse tes tentes. Habite 

sous la tente. C'est Ik, et rien que \k, qu'habitent 

les delices de la vie. 

"Dans les demeures stables et civilisdes, il n'y 

a point de ferveur, il n'y a point d'amiti^. Crois- 

moi ! fuis ta patrie, et enfonce-toi dans les pays du 

lointain profond." 

Histoire du beau Hassan Badreddine. 



PREFACE 

In a few years the days of adventurous exploration 
in Africa will have passed, and the darkness that 
enshrouded that continent at the end of last century 
will have melted away. With the spread of civiliza- 
tion, which ultimately, no doubt, brings peace and 
prosperity, the interesting customs and habits of the 
primitive tribes must change, giving place to new, 
and so brief is this period of transition, that within a 
short space almost all traces of the old are obliterated. 

Jubaland is an unexplored country. Its inhabi- 
tants are living to-day in the same fashion that their 
forefathers lived centuries ago. Its wild animals 
roam undisturbed over its wide and silent plains, or 
lie unmolested in the shadow of its bush. But this 
state of affairs cannot last. In a few years all will 
be different, and Jubaland will be unrecognizable. 

In the following pages I have attempted to 
record my impressions of the lives and habits of its 
people and its game, before the Somali and the 
Borana become civilized and the wild animals are 
driven out and finally exterminated. 

The explorer who enters for the first time an 
unknown country about which there is nothing but 
native information on which to depend, is at once 

7 



PREFACE 

faced by a variety of problems as interesting as they 
are generally complex ; he can only hope, by record- 
ing the plain and sober facts which he has collected, 
to create some kind of foundation, as it were, upon 
which future travellers may build, until our knowledge 
of' such regions is complete. I have not attempted 
in this book to deal with many of these problems, 
interesting though they are, since I do not feel 
qualified to do so. But as far as time and circum- 
stances permitted, I paid special attention during my 
journey to the geography, the natives and the natural 
history of the country I traversed, and my object in 
pres_enting the results of my observations in the 
following pages, is the hope of adding something, 
however small, to the sum of human knowledge. 

My best thanks are due to Captain R. E. Sal- 
keld for the valuable assistance he gave me in Juba- 
land ; to the Hon. K. R. Dundas for his kindness 
and hospitality ; to the Director of Surveys at 
Nairobi for providing me with the latest maps and 
valuable geographical data concerning Kismayu and 
the adjacent country ; to the Council of the Royal 
Geographical Society for the loan of scientific instru- 
ments ; to Mr. F. Elliott for giving me much infor- 
mation as regards the Somali language and the 
meaning of native names ; and to my brother-in-law, 
Mr. Eric Corbett, for reading and correcting my 
manuscript. 

In Chapter II., I have drawn freely from Captain 
Stigand's book, The Land of Zinj, for information 
concerning the early history of Lamu, and I have 



PREFACE 

constantly referred to Mr. R. Lydekker's Game 
Animals of Africa in writing the chapters on 
Hunter's Hartebeeste, and the big game of Jubaland. 

All the photographs, from which the illustrations 
were made, were taken by myself, except the three on 
page 138, which were given me by Mr. F. Elliott. 

I should indeed be ungrateful if I did not mention 
my great indebtedness to Mr. E. A. Reeves, the 
Map Curator and Instructor to the Royal Geo- 
graphical Society. It is to his tuition and constant 
help and encouragement that I owe whatever measure 
of success I may have obtained in geographical 
surveying. 

I. N. DRACOPOLI. 

London, 1913. 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER I 

PAGE 

British East Africa . . . . . .17 

CHAPTER II 
By Sea to Lamu ....... 28 

CHAPTER III 

KlSMAYU AND THE JUBA RiVER . . . . .38 

CHAPTER IV 
A Short Expedition across the Dibayu Plains . . 49 

CHAPTER V 
Final Preparations and Start from Kismayu . . 60 

CHAPTER VI 
A Chapter of Accidents . . . . . .71 

CHAPTER VII 
A New River . . . . . . .81 

CHAPTER VIII 
The Arrola, or Hunter's Hartebeeste . .^ -94 

CHAPTER IX 
Hunting in Joreh . . .... 103 

CHAPTER X 

More Arrola and a New Zebra . . . .114 

II 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER XI 

FAGB 

Across the Wilderness . . . . . .126 



CHAPTER XII 
Some Notes on the Somali , . . . .137 

CHAPTER XIII 

Further Notes on the Somali. . . . -147 

CHAPTER XIV 

The Discovery of Gulola Swamp . . . -159 

CHAPTER XV 
Into the Unknown . . . . . .171 

CHAPTER XVI 
The Lak Dera . . . . . . .182 

CHAPTER XVII 
From the Haryel Plains to the Lorian Swamp . . 192 

CHAPTER XVIII 
Plain and Swamp ....... 202 

CHAPTER XIX 
A Land of Mirage ...... 213 

CHAPTER XX 
The Borana . . . . . . . .225 

CHAPTER XXI 
Marti Plateau ....... 236 

CHAPTER XXII 

The Big Game of Jubaland and the Lorian . . 247 

12 



CONTENTS 

CHAPTER XXIII 

PAGE 

The Uaso Nyiro between Marti Plateau and Archer's 258 
Post ........ 

CHAPTER XXIV 
Some Notes on the Camel ..... 269 

CHAPTER XXV 
Back to Civilisation ...... 279 

CHAPTER XXVI 
Hints on Outfit ....... 287 



APPENDIX A 
Summary of the Geographical Results of the Expedition 300 

APPENDIX B 
Climate ........ 307 

APPENDIX C 
List of Trade Goods . . . . . .308 

APPENDIX D 
The Native Names of Animals .... 310 

Index. . , . . . . . .313 



13 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



A Typical Bush Somali . 

Natives at Mazeras Station 

A Native Bazaar in the Highlands . 

KiSMAYU ..... 

Ancient Ruins at Gondal 

A Flat-topped Conifer . 

Swimming my Camels across the Juba River 

Our Guide . . . . , 

The Lak Guran at Shimbirleh 

An Ogaden War Dance . 

The Arrola. .... 

Oryx Beisa ..... 

A Water- Hole in Joreh . 

Topi ...... 

A Marabou Stork .... 

Loading a Camel with the Water Tanks 

A Somali Woman .... 

A Somali Girl .... 

An Ogaden War Dance . 

Somali Cattle .... 

Somali Warriors preparing for a Dance 

A Somali Hut .... 

Somali Ghee Spoons 

14 



Frontispiece 

FACING PAGE 
22 



32 

40 

40 

50 

64 

72 

82 

92 

98 

104 

108 

120 

132 
138 
138 
138 
144 
144 
148 
156 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



The Back of a Handle of a Ghee Spoon 

Three Different Styles of Hair Combs 

A Remarkable Wooden Sleeping Pillow 

A Loaded Bullock 

A Typical Camp Scene . 

LiBOYi Swamp . . . ' . 

A Large Ant-heap near the Lak Dera 

A Water-pan in the Desert 

My Headman, Dahir Omar 

In the Lorian Swamp 

The Second Lorian Swamp 

The Uaso Nyiro above Marti Plateau 

A Borana Water-Bottle 

A Borana Milk-Pail 

An Observation Station on Marti Plateau 

Telephotograph of some Vultures 

Grevy's Zebra 

The Impalla 

Camels resting at Midday 

A Study in Discontent . 

Loading a Camel . 



FACING PAGE 
156 

160 
168 

184 
188 
200 
208 
217 
217 
232 
232 
244 
248 
256 
256 
264 
264 
276 



MAPS 

PAGE 

Sketch Map of Jubaland, showing Distribution of Game 16 
Map of portion of British East Africa . , .312 



15 



THROUGH JUBALAND 

TO THE 

LORIAN SWAMP 

CHAPTER I 

BRITISH EAST AFRICA 

British East Africa is inevitably associated in 
the minds of most people with the Uganda Railway. 
The words conjure up a picture of what has been 
advertised as "Nature's Zoo" — of lions, rhinoceros 
and giraffes wandering across the track which winds 
its way through a fertile and wonderful country from 
the coast up to the highlands, the so-called " health 
resort of British East Africa," where rich sportsmen 
pass a few hurried weeks during the winter, shooting 
big game within comfortable reach of Nairobi. Even 
in a recent series of special articles on the country, 
which appeared in the Times, no attention was paid 
to any other part of the Protectorate than that which 
borders on the railway. Yet if the reader will but 
glance at a map, he will see that in size that is but 
an insignificant portion of British East Africa. Far 
away from Nairobi, beyond the snowy heights of 
Kenya, lies a land still imperfectly known, stretching 
away to Abyssinia in the north and to the Juba River 
in the east. There are still fully 100,000 square 
B 17 



UNEXPLORED COUNTRY 

miles of unexplored country, chiefly in the eastern 
portion of these regions ; but a great deal of attention 
has been paid by explorers during the last few years 
to the interesting country immediately to the south of 
the Abyssinian frontier, and to the lava-strewn plateau 
between Lake Rudolf and Marsabit, The former 
was first surveyed by Captain Maud, R.E., in 
1902-3, and again in 1908-9 by Major Gwynn. 
In 1895 Dr. Donaldson Smith explored the volcanic 
regions east of Lake Rudolf, which were crossed 
by Count Eduard Wickenburg in 1901, and again 
described by Captain Stigand in his book, To 
Abyssinia throtigh an Unknown Land. In 1909 
Mr. G. F. Archer carried out the first scientific ex- 
ploration of this part of British East Africa, and 
extended the triangulation of the Survey Department 
from Mount Kenya to Kulal, near Lake Rudolf, where 
he joined on to Major Gwynn's work. The detail work 
has been filled in by Mr. Archer, Captain Stigand, 
Mr. A. C. Hoey and Mr. N. C. Cockburn, and with 
the exception of the country round the Matthews 
range, the western portion of the Northern Frontier 
District is now mapped with a fair degree of accuracy. 
It was in May 1909 that the Government decided 
to occupy effectively the country lying between the 
Juba River and Lake Rudolf, south of the Abyssinian 
frontier, though previously an agent had been ap- 
pointed by the British Minister in Abyssinia to watch 
our interests until the Boundary question had been 
definitely settled. An effective administration of this 
territory was deemed advisable in order to check 
intertribal warfare and to protect the Borana, who 
were living in the Protectorate, and were friendly, 
from the lawless raiding parties from Abyssinia. 

l8 



EFFECTIVE OCCUPATION 

Moreover, it was hoped that if direct communication 
could be opened between the settled parts of the 
Protectorate and the rich cattle districts in the vicinity 
of Moyale in southern Abyssinia a lucrative trade 
would ensue. By degrees military outposts were 
formed at Ngabotok, Kulal, Marsabit, Moyale, 
Wajheir and Sarrenleh, and a great improvement 
has been made, so that travelling has been rendered 
perfectly safe, at any rate in the western portion. 
This northern country is still a "closed district"; 
that is to say, that although conditions are satisfactory 
and on the whole peaceful, it is considered inadvisable 
as yet to throw it open to settlers and traders, and a 
special permission from the authorities is necessary to 
enable the traveller to enter it. This large stretch of 
country is divided by a provisional line, drawn from 
the junction of the Daua and Juba Rivers to the 
Lorian Swamp and passing immediately to the east 
of Eil Wak, into two portions known respectively as 
the Northern Frontier District on the west and Juba- 
land on the east. Jubaland is bounded on the east 
by the Juba River, beyond which is Italian Somaliland, 
on the south-east by the Indian Ocean, and on the 
south by an imaginary line drawn from the Lorian 
Swamp to the Bajun settlement of Kiunga on the 
coast. To the south of this line is the province of 
Tanaland. I have already mentioned the western 
boundary of Jubaland, which I have reason to believe 
will shortly be altered in order to include Wajheir. 

While no large expeditions have been engaged in 
exploring Northern Jubaland, much good work has 
been done there by officers in the King's African 
Rifles, and by members of the administrative force 
in the course of their travels. The late Lieutenant 

19 



GALLA AND SOMALI TRIBES 

rim er, who was killed in the early part of this year 
)y Abyssinian poachers, was the first to investigate 
M / this unknown region, and in two papers contributed 
to the Geographical Journal he threw some light 
on the general hydrography of the country. But the 
southern half of Jubaland and the northern part of 
Tanaland, that is to say, the country between the 
Tana River and the Lak Dera, has been totally 
neglected, and still remains almost completely 
unknown. Westwards of 41° 30' E., as far as the 
Lorian, no white man had ever penetrated until I 
crossed it this year. 

** One problem not yet solved is that of the 
continuation of the Uaso Nyiro," was a statement 
made by Mr. F. R. Cana in an admirable summary 
of the unknown regions of Africa in 1911,^ and he 
continues : " It is highly desirable that the mountains, 
rivers and lakes of this part of East Africa should be 
made known with certainty. The country is inhabited 
by wild Galla and Somali tribes, and most of it is 
a semi-arid bush-land, but the soil is rich and there 
are many areas beside that above Lorian suitable for 
cultivation." It was to solve this problem and to add 
as much as possible to our knowledge of the country 
lying between the Lorian Swamp and the Indian 
Ocean that I undertook the journey that I am about 
to describe in the following pages. Before I do so, 
however, it is advisable to define these problems at 
greater length, and to give some account of what was 
already known of the Lorian, 

The Uaso Nyiro, which means in the Masai 
language "the brown river," rises in the Aberdare 

1 Geographical Journal, November 191 1, " Problems of Exploration : 
Africa," by F. R. Cana. 

20 



e^ 



THE UASO NYIRO 

Mountains, and is known at first as the Uaso Narok 
until it is joined on the Laikipia Plateau by the 
Ngare Nyuki, which flows down from the western 
slopes of Kenya. Together they turn north and 
then almost due east, and known now as the Uaso 
Nyiro it flows for over 350 miles, until it enters 
a huge bed of reeds known as the Lorian Swamp. 
The position of the western end of the swamp has 
generally been given on the various maps of East 
Africa as in latitude 1° N., longitude 39° ^i^' E,, and 
this is approximately correct, but Mr. C. W. Hay- 
wood placed it nearly forty miles farther east in his 
sketch map published in the Geographical Journal, 
May 191 3. It was first discovered by Chanler and 
von Hohnel, who reported it to be apparently of 
great extent and filled with high reeds ; ^ they further 
stated that it occasionally overflowed, and sent its 
waters farther east. In 1901 Count Wickenburg 
passed it and found no stream emerging from its 
eastern edge ; ^ Colonel Broun, who reached it in 
1905, corroborates this statement. He remained 
there two days, and says : " Most unfortunately, the 
small quantity of food left for my porters did not (,^, /(^ 
justify a longer stay. . . . What was seen was an 
immense bed of reeds twelve feet higrh and no open 
water. . . . My guide . . . said he was clear that . 
no water flowed out of the swamp from any point on r1 

its circum,ference. He was questioned closely on that 4^v? 
point." ^ Mr. C. W. Haywood, however, who, after 
an interesting journey from Kismayu along the 

^ Through Jungle and Forest, by W. A. Chanler. 
^ Geographical Journal, February 1902. 

^ Ibid. January 1906, "A Journey to the Lorian Swamp," Lieutj^^jaL- 
\^JlJBroun. 

"^ 21 



THE UASO NYIRO 

Somali trade route to Wajheir, reached the Lorian 
at the height of the dry season, states: "... the 
Uaso Nyiro runs out of this swamp in a fairly large 
stream and then flows in a south-easterly direction for 
about thirty miles, when it reaches a swamp known 
as * Ururaha.' Here the river splits up into little 
swamps running off in different directions like the 
fingers of a hand and gradually trickles out in a tiny 
stream a few feet in width and about six inches in 
depth. This runs on for about ten miles, gradually 
dwindling until it eventually dries up entirely near 
Marer Koh,^ where the dry watercourse known as 
Lak Dera, which runs down in the direction of 
Afmadu, commences. I had not time to follow this 
course, but there is no doubt it is well defined. . . ."^ 

Mr. Haywood has obviously confused the main 
Lorian Swamp with an extensive shallow depression 
covered with grass and surrounded by jungle, and 
crossed by three shallow channels situated on the 
right bank of the Uaso Nyiro, and which the Borana 
call Melka Gela. He has called it Jaffa-wein, but 
this is the name applied by the natives to the southern 
side of the bed of reeds, which forms the main swamp. 
There are several other points in his description of it 
with which, I am afraid, I entirely disagree, but I shall 
have more to say about them in dealing with the 
Lorian in the course of my narrative. 

Another description is as follows : " . . . the E. 
Uaso Nyiro was very low, and was not running 
into the swamp, but formed a long series of dis- 
connected pools. These pools, some as much as two 

^ Probably the same place as I mention under the name of Madoleh. 
^Geographical Journal^ May 1913, "The Lorian Swamp," C. H. 
Haywood. 
''^' 22 



A SOLID MASS OF FISH 

miles in length, were practically a solid mass of 
myriads of fish, mostly siluroids, and often running 
up to 30 lb. in weight. From the photographs 
shown the numbers of the fish were incredible. No 
water could be seen from bank to bank, nothing but 
millions of fish packed as close as could be, but all 
alive. There were more fish than water. In some 
pools the crocodiles appear to have collected, and 
half a dozen of these saurians could be seen lying 
packed in a pool not more than 15 feet across. Just 
before the traveller left the swamp the river was 
beginning to rise, rain having evidently fallen at the 
head-waters of the river." ^ 

This curious and interesting account was con- 
firmed in a conversation I had recently with Mr. 
W. N. Macmillan, the well-known African sportsman 
and traveller, who had witnessed a similar scene. 

Such are a few of the accounts given by big-game 
hunters, traders and officials, who have from time to 
time made their way into the Lorian district, and it 
will be seen what an extraordinary divergence of 
opinion there was between them. To some extent 
this may be explained by the fact that undoubtedly 
the Lorian varies enormously with the time of year, 
and during the rains it probably presents an entirely 
different appearance to what it does during the dry 
season. Another fact which no doubt has caused 
some confusion is the name Lorian, as used by the 
natives. The river which enters the swamp is known 
as the Uaso Nyiro from the junction of the Uaso 
Narok, and Ngare Nyuki until the remarkable vol- 
canic plateau of Marti is reached. Thence until 

I '^ Journal of East Africa aftd Uganda, Nat. Hist. Soc, July 1912, 
I" A Journey to the Lorian Swamp," communicated. 

2% 



THE LORIAN 

permanent water ceases at Madoleh, it, as well as the 
country lying on both sides, is known to the Borana 
and the Somali under the general name of " Lorian." 
But since Marti Plateau is about one hundred miles 
west of the main Lorian Swamp, some travellers have 
been very much puzzled when told they had reached 
Lorian by the natives, and they have on several 
occasions returned without having penetrated farther 
than Melka Gela — even if they have reached as far. 
This will probably explain the reports of those who 
described the Lorian Swamp as a shallow lake or a 
large expanse of open water. But the greatest con- 
fusion has been caused by those who, having travelled 
thither and back again without any attempt to carry 
out more than a rough compass sketch of their route, 
if they even did that, do not hesitate to make a map 
of their journey on their return. Colonel Broun, 
however, brought back an excellent map of the lower 
Uaso Nyiro, and my work corresponded very closely 
with his results, except for a difference as regards the 
height of Marti Plateau. 

But the country to the east of Lorian, between 
the main swamp and Afmadu, was quite unknown, 
and had remained unexplored south of the Wajheir- 
Afmadu road. The opinion had been held for some 
time, however, that a river, or, at any rate, a small 
stream called " Lakdera," did connect the Lorian 
Swamp with the shallow lake known as the Deshek 
Wama, which is situated not very far from the mouth 
of the Juba River, and it had been referred to as 
"the great watercourse which runs from Lake 
Lorian." Moreover, it was generally known as the 
" River Lakdera." The marking of this channel on 
even the most recently published maps under this 

24 



HYDROGRAPHY OF JUBALAND 

title is another striking instance of the confusion in 
geographical nomenclature which often shows itself 
in the maps of a new country. "Lak"is itself the 
native term in this part of Africa for a river-bed in 
which water only occasionally runs, while "dera" is a 
separate word, meaning, in Somali, ** long." Another 
strange mistake was the name given to a small water- 
hole — Lake Worrta. For "worrta" is the Somali 
word for "rainpool." 

In 1898 Captain C. O. Tanner surveyed the lower 
part of the Lak Dera from the Deshek Wama to above 
Afmadu, and he stated on his map that, according 
to native report, it came from Lorian. He also 
found another stream bed, the Lak Jiro, coming from 
the north, which joined the Lak Dera at Afmadu. 

The hydrography of southern Jubaland had also 
aroused considerable speculation, for along the coast 
from Kismayu to Port Durnford there are a number 
of small inlets and creeks, down which water had 
been observed to flow occasionally. Where did this 
water come from ? Were there any hills in the 
interior, or a plateau, which they drained ? What was 
the nature and importance of the " Lak Guranluga," 
a river marked on every map, and which was stated 
in an official report, published two years ago, to rise 
in the El Lin ^ swamp and to run southwards until 
it joined the "River Arnole".'* What was the 
character of the Bisahu Hamu, shown on every map 
of Jubaland as a very large swamp lying on the 
Equator, and fed by two streams from the north? 
Was there any important divide or watershed between 

^ The name El Lin does not seem to be known to the natives — at 
any rate to none of those I met. It probably corresponds to the swamp 
I have called Seyera on my map. 

25 



NAIROBI 

the Tana River and the Lak Dera ? Such were only 
a few of the questions which it was hoped the ex- 
ploration of Jubaland would solve. Moreover, the 
study of the inhabitants and the fauna could not fail 
to be of interest. 

I arrived at Mombasa in the month of October 
19 1 2, and immediately proceeded to Nairobi in order 
to see the authorities and obtain permission to under- 
take my journey. The railway journey is too well 
known to need any description. Three years had 
passed since I had last travelled on the Uganda 
Railroad, but time had brought no change for the 
better in its comfort, and the carriages were not 
improved in any way. We arrived in Nairobi about 
four hours late, and having engaged a room at the 
hotel, I strolled round the town to renew old 
acquaintances. I found Nairobi much grown in size, 
but not in beauty. It is neither African nor European, 
but seems to combine in one city the discomforts of 
two civilisations without the advantag-es of either. 
I at length managed to obtain a pass to enter 
Jubaland after some irritating delays, but it was 
only through the kindness of Captain Salkeld, the 
Provincial Commissioner of Jubaland, who happened 
to be in Nairobi on official business at the time. I 
engaged, on his recommendation, a Somali headman 
named Dahir Omar, and also an interpreter, who 
came from Somaliland, while in the bazaar I found 
an Akamba boy, who had been my personal servant 
on a previous expedition, and I arranged to take him, 
a cook and a gun-bearer (both the latter Swahilis) 
with me, as it might be impossible to get others in 
Kismayu, the little town on the coast of Jubaland, 
from which I was to start my journey. Mr. R. P. 

26 



ENGAGING MEN 

Cunnlnghame, the well-known naturalist, very kindly 
found me a good native boy, who could collect birds, 
if necessary, and was an expert skinner. He proved 
to be an Akamba boy of powerful build and ex- 
ceedingly ugly, who rejoiced in the name of Kampi 
Mbaya (bad camp). He had been so nicknamed, it 
appeared, from the fact that he had once distinguished 
himself in a big fight between porters of a safari, in 
which he had stunned three men ; both he and the 
camp at which it occurred had been christened 
simultaneously! In spite of his quick temper, he 
proved to be one of the best men I had with me, 
and served me well and faithfully throughout my 
journey. I left Nairobi without regret and reached 
Mombasa with pleasure. In this delightful old town, 
so full of historical interest, I spent some pleasant 
days waiting for the steamer to sail for Kismayu. I 
engaged six porters here, chiefly Swahili ; for although 
the arid nature of the country I was to traverse 
rendered it imperative to use camels which were best 
obtained on the coast, it was necessary to take a few 
porters to carry scientific instruments and cameras 
on the march, which would have shaken to pieces 
on a camel, and to collect wood and water in the 
evenings. I always try to reduce the number of 
my men to a minimum, for it greatly simplifies the 
question of food-supply and renders the traveller far 
more independent and the caravan far handier, in 
case hard marches are necessary. I also bought part 
of my trade goods here. At last everything was 
settled, the little steamer Wiesman sailed into 
Mombasa harbour, and I went down towards the 
dock full of eagerness and impatience to be gone, 
and to start on the long journey that lay before me. 

27 



CHAPTER II 

BY SEA TO LAMU 

The day had been particularly hot, even for 
Mombasa, but now as I walked down from the club 
to the little harbour, the evening breeze brought 
freshness to the heated air, and ruffled with tiny cat's 
paws the smooth, glassy surface of the harbour. 
In the distance I could see the line of foam where 
the lazy swell broke over the reefs, and close at hand 
the palms stirred and whispered gently in the night 
wind. The little Wiesman lay at anchor in the bay ; 
she had that morning come in from Zanzibar, and 
was to start the same night for the north, calling at 
Malindi, Lamu, Kismayu, Brava and Mogadishu. 
Then she would return. She belonged to an Indian 
firm and was in charge of two white officers and a 
Lascar crew. Her sole accommodation consists of 
a couple of tiny cabins amidships, a minute saloon on 
the poop, into which five men could just squeeze at 
meal-times, and a toy navigating bridge above the 
cabin. As I made my way down the steep incline 
to the landing-stage, she blew her whistle twice im- 
patiently. My men, stores and luggage were all on 
board in charge of my headman, so I was alone in 
the little boat in which I was rowed across. As I 
stepped on board I was greeted by the skipper, and 
after taking a drink with him in the little saloon, we 
made our way on to the bridge ; shortly after, my 

28 



MIXED HUMANITY 

two fellow-travellers came aboard, both officials 
bound for Jubaland, and as soon as they arrived 
anchor was weighed. The sun had set in a very 
riot of colour, and Mombasa was hidden in the soft, 
velvety darkness of a tropical night ; but hundreds 
of little lights shone brightly along the shore, and 
were reflected in the water, as we steamed fussily out 
towards the open sea. The Wiesman emerged at 
length from the channel and began pitching as she 
met the ocean swell, leaving in her wake a line of 
phosphorescent fire ; the lights grew dim behind us 
and faded from our sight, and I felt at last that my 
journey had begun. 

At the skipper's suggestion we had our blankets 
brought up on to the bridge, glad to escape the horrors 
of the tiny cabins. Every available part of the deck 
below was occupied by the native passengers ; 
covered up to the eyes, they lay outstretched in 
every corner, rendering it impossible to move about ; 
among them were Somali returning to their country, 
" askaris " travelling to Sarrenleh, Bajun and Swahili 
on their way to Kismayu or Lamu, Kikuyu recruits 
going to the rubber plantations on the lower Tana, 
now all huddled together irrespective of creed or caste, 
overcome by fatigue and sleep. Over all hung the 
odour of the cargo of hides, and of the huddled mass 
of humanity, defiling the pure air of the open sea ; 
and now, as the pitching of the ship increased, loud 
sounds of distress came from the wretched natives 
below as they writhed in the throes of sea-sickness, 
drowning the throbbing of the crazy engines and 
making night hideous with their cries. 

At the wheel, on the navigating bridge above, 
stood a Lascar, a picturesque ruffian in blue overalls 

29 



MALINDI 

with enormous rings in his ears. Throughout the 
hours that followed I kept waking up as he called 
the number of bells in some uncouth tongue, or 
repeated the orders of the mate who was on watch. 
A small oil lamp threw a flickering light upon his 
bronzed face and bare chest, glistening with sweat, 
as he kept the little vessel on her course. 

Dawn broke with rare loveliness upon a smooth 
sea, whose unruffled surface shone like burnished 
silver, and as the light grew it revealed on our port 
side the low sandy shore, fringed with the deep green 
of a belt of palm trees, in which the little town of 
Malindi was half concealed. We anchored here for 
an hour, but the few white houses built on the very- 
beach, and the uninteresting character of the place 
decided me to stay on board ; from the deck I 
watched the Lascars unload some cargo on to the 
dhows that had come out to meet us ; the Kikuyu 
recruits were transhipped, and we were off again 
towards the north before seven o'clock. All through 
that morning and well into the afternoon, the little 
Wiesman steamed untidily over the gentle swell, 
leaving a broad wake of foam behind her, above 
which wheeled innumerable gulls in search of food ; 
occasionally I had a glimpse of the African coast, 
low and inhospitable, but it showed indistinctly 
through the haze that hung above the water ; a 
school of porpoises, and now and again a shoal of 
fish rising for a moment like silver spray above the 
sea, lent charm and life to a scene that was otherwise 
monotonous and wearisome. 

At three o'clock we entered the long and intricate 
channel that leads into Lamu Bay. We passed at first 
between coral reefs, and then threaded our way down 

30 



BAJUN ISLANDS 

the narrow passage that separates Lamu from Manda 
Island. The shore on either side was low and 
covered with dense scrub, but on the landward side 
this was replaced by mangrove swamps ; I was told 
that at low tide a great expanse of mud and sand is 
exposed, on which can be seen countless crabs and 
other animals. These islands, as well as those to the 
north, known collectively as the Bajun Islands, are 
of coral formation, and are very similar in appearance 
one to another. Ruins of ancient mosques and stone 
houses of unmistakably Persian design are to be 
found on many of them. Both the inhabitants of 
Lamu and the Bajun claim to be of Persian descent, 
and their light colouring, their regular type of features 
and the shape of some of their pottery seem to bear 
out their statement, although it is more probable that 
Arab blood perponderates. 

We skirted the little promontory on which the 
old town of Shela stands, sailed close to a low open 
beach, behind which were some large sandhills, and 
dropped anchor in front of the picturesque town of 
Lamu. Known to the natives as Amu, it stands 
at the western corner of the island of Lamu, which 
is separated from the mainland only by a narrow 
channel. Like Kismayu it is said to have been 
founded by Abdul Malik bin Muriani in the 77th 
year of the Hejira (694 a.d.), but it is almost certain 
that there were settlements here of Hamyarites or 
Phoenicians at a still earlier date. 

The internal strife that raged throughout Arabia 
after the death of the Prophet was probably the 
indirect cause of the colonisation of the East African 
coast, for the defeated sultans were obliged to flee 
from their country and take refuge at those ports 

31 



PICTURESQUE BUILDINGS 

which trade had made known to them ; and there 
they founded small separate kingdoms. The history 
of Lamu from that time onwards is somewhat 
obscure, but it is known to have undergone many 
vicissitudes ; it was captured by Tristan da Cunha 
at the beginning of the sixteenth century, and con- 
tinued to be under Portuguese rule, in spite of many 
revolutions, for about one hundred and sixty years. 
Civil war and internal dissensions of all kinds then 
broke out along the whole of the East African coast, 
and permanent peace was not secured until 1893.^ 

The first thing that strikes the traveller on 
entering Lamu are the tall stone houses, built of 
coral rock, and constructed after the Arab fashion, 
round an open central courtyard. Many of these 
houses have beautiful doors, handsomely carved, and 
decorated with brass or iron knobs or handles. The 
streets are very narrow, only sufficiently wide to 
allow a loaded donkey or two men abreast to pass 
at the same time. Most of the refuse is thrown out 
into the road from the houses, so that the smell is 
appalling. The narrowness of the streets only serves 
to emphasise the height of the houses, so that as one 
walks along they appear to be nothing less than 
" sky-scrapers." But the effect, on the whole, is 
quaint and picturesque. 

Another sight, peculiar to Lamu I believe, cannot 
fail to interest the traveller. A free-born woman, 
when she goes out into the town, holds a kind of tent, 
called "Shiraa," above her head. It is composed of 
two cloths sewn together, with a stick attached 
to each corner. If she has no servants or slaves, 
she takes two sticks in each hand and thus stretches 

^ The Land of Zinj^ by Capt. C. H. Stigand, p. 15. 
32 



ADMINISTRATIVE CENTRE 

the cloth above her head. If she has one servant, 
the latter walks in front holding two sticks spread 
out fanwise, and her mistress follows her, holding 
the other two ; but if she is a rich woman and has 
two slaves, she walks in the middle, while one slave 
goes in front and the other behind supporting the 
shiraa, one stick in each hand, above the lady's 
head. The procession thus formed is somewhat 
comic, and very clumsy ; what the origin of this 
interesting custom is, is not known. Owing to the 
darkness of the streets in the late afternoon, my 
attempts at photographing were not successful, much 
to my disappointment. 

Lamu is the administrative centre of the district 
of Tanaland, and is the residence of several Govern- 
ment officials. Its inhabitants are of various races, 
and consist of Arabs, Swahili, who are probably 
people of mixed Persian and African descent, slaves 
from every kind of native tribe from the interior, 
Somali, Indian traders and Galla. They are 
notorious throughout East Africa for their licentious- 
ness, and every form of unnatural vice is common. 
In the days of their prosperity china and pottery 
were manufactured there, but it has now become very 
scarce, owing to the fact that it is impossible to find 
labourers, since the slave trade has been abolished 
and the slaves freed. There is very little china left 
in Lamu to-day, the greater part having been sold to 
traders and collectors under the stress of poverty ; at 
Mombasa and, in fact, almost anywhere, it fetches a 
high price and is much sought after. 

I was very hospitably received by the Provincial 
Commissioner, Mr. A. T. Reddie. He has spent 
twenty years of his life in East Africa, and was the 
c 33 



A HORN WITH A HISTORY 

first man to reach the Lorian Swamp by way of the 
Tana Valley. During his travels he has gathered 
together a unique collection of great ethnological and 
historical interest, part of which I had the privilege 
of seeing. Amongst other things which particularly 
struck me was an enormous ivory horn, made from 
the tusk of a large bull elephant, very richly carved 
and ornamented. The history of this very interest- 
ino- instrument and that of the brass horn from which 
it was copied, was written out for him by the Sultan 
of Witu, and I give it here, exactly as it was trans- 
lated from the Swahili : — 

History of the Brass Horn 

The Sultan of Manda bought it from a dhow 
which came from Arabia, previous to the Ivory one 
being made (Hejira 701). 

The Wazee of Lamu for some reason thought 
they ought to possess it, or wished to possess it. 

They accordingly went to the man in whose 
charge it was and said, " We will pay you well if you 
let us get possession of the horn." He said, " No ! 
I cannot do this, as if the Sultan knows I gave it to 
you he would kill me." The Wazee of Lamu replied, 
"You can tell the Sultan that we took it by force 
from you," and he agreed to do so. Therefore one 
day when he was out blowing it at sun-set, he handed 
it over to the Lamu people and reported to his 
Sultan that men from Lamu had taken it by force 
from him. 

A war between the two peoples was the conse- 
quence, but the Lamu people kept the " Horn." 

They cast lots as to who was to look after it. 

34 



A HOEN WITH A HISTORY 

It fell to the Wajiri family to be its custodians, and 
they keep it to this day. 

History of the Ivory Horn of Patte 

The ivory horn (Siwa) was made at Patte by 
Sherif Jamall Lail, it is said, about 700 years ago. 
He made it in secret. He presented it to the then 
Sultan of Patte, who gave him a handsome present. 
It was blown on all state occasions, as well as lent 
to the Principal men of Patte on the occasion of 
marriage or other festivities in their families. At 
that time Lamu was a part of the dominions of the 
Patte Sultans. The great families of Lamu also 
were lent it for the above purposes. 

At a recent date, namely, the occasion of the 
marriage of the Ex-Wali of Lamu Abdulla bin 
Hamed to his present wife Fatuma binti Mohamed, 
it was borrowed by the bride's father to be used at 
the marriage ceremony. At this time there was 
living in Lamu Fumo Bakari, one of the Ex-Sultans 
of the Nahaban line. After the marriage ceremony 
Fumo Bakari seized it ; he said it must not be 
returned to Patte. He sold it to a woman, Binti 
Waziri, who was the living representative of the 
family which was the hereditary keeper of the Lamu 
brass trumpet, which was at that time in her house. 
Binti Waziri gave Fumo Bakari thirty dollars for 
it. Kombo bin Sham, one of the Patte Wazee and 
a resident of Lamu, stated before the then Wali of 
Lamu, Sudi bin Hamed, that the Horn was not the 
property of the Royal Family, but belonged to the 
Wazee of Patte. The Wali replied, " Pay dollars 
thirty for it and I will get it from Binti Waziri." 

35 



A HORN WITH A HISTORY 

They paid the money and the Horn was given to 
Kombo bin Sham and Nasiri bin Abdalla, and a 
document was written out by the WaH that it was 
the property of the Wazee of Patte and to be kept 
by Kombo bin Sham. It remained with him till Said 
bin Hamed became Wali. He seized it by force and 
put it in Lamu Fort along with the Lamu brass Horn. 

During the reign of the Nahaban Sultans at 
Witu, it was offered by the then Wali of Lamu, Said 
bin Hamed, to the then Sultan Ahmed of Witu upon 
condition that he would hoist the Zanzibar flag, and 
if he would seize Mbaruk of the Manzrui he would 
be eiven one thousand dollars besides. Sultan 
Ahmed refused to do so, and the Siwa remained 
in the Fort. By an arrangement between the Ex- 
Wali Abdulla bin Hamed and Mr. Rogers, Sub- 
Commissioner, it was placed in the house of the 
latter, where it still is. 

It was customary both in Mr. Rogers' and Mr. 
Macdouofall's time to lend it to certain of the old 
families of Lamu for any marriage or other family 
ceremony (Harusi). 

The above information has been given to me by 
Sultan of Witu, Wali of Lamu, Sherif Abdulla bin 
Hamed Redemi Witu, Ali bin Khalid of the Waziri, 
the hereditary custodian of the Lamu trumpet. 
Mawia bin Mohamed Lamu 

MOHAMED BIN HaMED LaMU 

Abubokar bin Mohamed Lamu 

Etc., etc. 
A. T. Reddie, 
Provincial Commissioner. 

It was now getting late, so I was obliged very 

36 



A HORN WITH A HISTORY 

reluctantly to cut short our most interesting conversa- 
tion, and return to the steamer. As soon as I was 
aboard, the skipper weighed anchor and we pro- 
ceeded very cautiously down through the channel 
out into the open sea. As we were due to arrive 
in Kismayu at sunrise the next morning, I went 
to bed early. A fresh north-easterly wind was 
blowing, and the tiny steamer plunged and staggered 
over the heavy seas in a most uncomfortable fashion, 
but the air was cool, and I should have slept well 
had it not been for the dreadful sounds that rose 
from the wretched natives below. 



37 



CHAPTER III 

KISMAYU AND THE JUBA RIVER 

It was still quite early when the Wiesman turned 
inwards towards land before entering- the intricate 
channel which is the only passage into Kismayu bay. 
The coast lay some five miles off, low, sandy, and 
inhospitable, while in front of it rose a small island 
and several isolated coral rocks, against which the 
slow swell broke and foamed. These formed a 
natural breakwater, and behind them rode on the 
smooth surface of the bay a variety of native vessels 
of all kinds. But before reaching this haven, a full 
hour was spent in navigating the passage which 
wound in and about between the coral reefs in 
a most bewildering fashion. The wretched natives 
had forgotten all their miseries, now that calm water 
had been reached, and began chatting together and 
discussing their plans in loud tones. Finally we 
turned for the last time ; the skipper took a bearing, 
and we went forward slowly into the bay, at the 
other end of which the little town of Kismayu could 
be seen, a cluster of white houses and native huts 
nestling among the sand-dunes near the water's edge. 
We anchored at last a mile and a half out ; all 
around the little steamboat was a crowd of native 
craft filled with Arabs, Somali or Bajun. Some 
were helping to unload or bringing more cargo ; 
others had come to meet friends or merely to look 



THE WHITE POPULATION 

on ; at any rate it was a pleasant and amusing scene. 
The glorious sunlight, the blue sea edged with cream 
where the tiny waves lazily rolled up the beach, the 
white houses beyond, and the happy crowd of 
natives, for the most part unspoiled by civilisation, 
and clad in loose and brightly coloured robes, 
together formed a very vivid picture of Eastern life. 

After seeing that my men passed the medical 
inspection, I climbed down the ladder, not sorry to 
leave the wretched little steamer, and was rowed 
ashore, the last few yards of the journey being per- 
formed on the back of one of the boat-boys, as the 
beach sloped so gradually that it was impossible to 
bring the boat much nearer in than fifteen yards or 
so. There was a tremendous va et vient on the 
beach, almost the whole of the population turning 
out to see the arrival of the steamer ; the noise was 
overwhelming, and as the sun climbed higher in the 
heavens, the glare increased and became very trying, 
so that I was glad to pass out into the little town. 

Kismayu boasts of no hotel or inn of any kind ; 
white visitors indeed rarely come to this part of the 
world, but when they do, the hospitality of the 
officials more than makes amends for any lack of 
accommodation. The white population of Kismayu 
consists of the Provincial and District Com- 
missioners and their wives, the doctor, and the 
Inspector of the Jubaland police. The Provincial 
Commissioner was away when I arrived, but the 
Honourable K. R. Dundas, the District Com- 
missioner, very kindly asked me to stay at his house, 
although I was a perfect stranger to him ; and for 
the next week, while I was busily preparing for my 
journey, he made me most truly welcome. He not 

39 



KISMAYU 

only smoothed away many difficulties that con- 
fronted me, but took the greatest trouble to show 
me the many interesting things that are to be found 
in the vicinity of the town, and placed a riding camel 
at my disposal to facilitate my movements. 

Kismayu is not only the principal town in Juba- 
land, if it may be called a town at all, but is also 
the seat of Government. It derives its importance 
from the fact that it possesses the only well-protected 
roadstead between Mogadishu and Lamu, and thus 
much of the merchandise desisfned for Giumbo and 
southern Italian Somaliland passes through its port. 
It contains about 4000 inhabitants, chiefly Somali, 
Arabs, Bajun and a few Indian traders. Except for 
the custom-house and a few stone buildings in which 
the officials reside, the town is composed of native 
huts running in straight lines on each side of broad 
sandy streets, which in turn nearly all lead to the 
little central square where the Treasury, Court 
House, Gaol and Provincial Commissioner's office 
are situated. Here also is a small hall with open 
sides, where all important meetings [dorassa) are held 
between Somali chiefs and the Commissioner. The 
former also often forgather within its walls to chat 
over a cup of coffee amongst themselves. For the 
Government employs a man at a salary of Rs. 15 
a month to supply coffee free to all natives of any 
position, and sweetmeats on all festivals and fete 
days. 

Kismayu boasts of a club, which includes among 
its members most of the officers stationed in Juba- 
land, many of the officials from Italian Somaliland 
and some of the planters from the Gosha country 
along the Juba River. Among the regulations of 

40 




KiSMAYU 

A street in the native quarter. The palms afford the only 
shade to be found in the town, and the road is of soft white 
sand. 




Ancient Ruins at Gondal 

These curious ruins are probably Persian in origin. It is interesting to note that the 
heart-shaped emblem, shown over the arch in this photograph, is aUo to be seen over the 
doorway of the Persian Monastery at Lamu, near the mouth of the River Tana. 



THE WATER SUPPLY 

the club, there is an unusual but most excellent 
rule, which does not allow any member to offer 
another a drink without incurring a fine of Rs. 5. 
It might with advantage be copied in other clubs in 
the Protectorate, for there the habit of standing and 
being stood drinks has become a perfect burden, 
especially to those who are not blessed with an 
abundance of this world's goods. 

There are several wells in Kismayu, but the water 
they contain is bitter and unpleasant to the taste ; all 
the water therefore which is required has to be 
fetched from the Juba River some nine miles away, 
whence it is broug-ht back in twelve-gallon tanks on 
camels. But the slope of the ground is such that 
whenever there is any rain, all the refuse and filth 
from the little village of Gobwein is swept down into 
the river at the only place at which it is practicable 
to fill the water tanks, for further up there is an 
abundance of tsetse fly. Consequently it is not 
surprising that dysentery is rife at Gobwein and 
Giumbo as well as at Kismayu, and it is marvellous 
there is no more. 

Formerly the Treasury at Kismayu was the fort, 
and around it were the ofScers' quarters when it was 
a military station. Surrounding them was a high, 
thick wall, which is still standing in excellent repair, 
but the little town has now spread beyond it, and it 
no longer serves a useful purpose, for conditions 
along the coast are quite peaceful. 

The town of Kismayu, whose name is said to be 
derived from the words " Kisima cha yuu," meaning 
the " Upper Well," was founded by Abdul Malik bin 
Muriani in the 77th year of the Hejira {694. a.d,). 
At about the same time the little towns of Mogadishu, 

41 



"THE LAND OF ZINJ " 

Brava and Malindi also sprang into existence through 
the enterprise of Abdul Malik ; he placed one of his 
own followers as governor in each place, and declared 
himself Sultan. The reader who is interested in the 
early history of the East African coast and in the 
career of Abdul Malik and his successors, cannot do 
better than refer to Captain Stigand's book entitled 
The Land of Zinj. In it he will find much valuable 
information derived from Swahili sources, translated 
by the author. Time, however, has hardly changed 
the daily life at Kismayu. The beginning of the north- 
east monsoon still brings traders from the north, 
dhows from the Persian Gulf and from southern 
Arabia laden with cloths and ornaments from India, 
with coarse, woven silk goods from Persia, and dates 
and dried sharks' flesh from the Persian Gulf. After 
six months, when the south-west monsoon begins to 
blow, these same traders return northwards, having 
sold or exchanged their goods, carrying with them 
in their heavily-loaded ships grain, hides, ivory and 
ambergris. The latter commands a ready market 
almost anywhere, and is very valuable, for it is a 
necessary ingredient in the manufacture of perfumes. 
The ivory too finds its way, not only to the West, 
but also to the East, to India and China, where it is 
worked into a variety of beautiful ornaments. Only 
one line of steamers links Kismayu with the outside 
world. The Italian mail-steamer call once a month, 
but at irregular intervals the little Wies?jzan, or the 
Kilwa, tiny obsolete steamers belonging to rival 
Indian firms, laboriously cover the 364 miles that lie 
between it and Mombasa in from three to five days, 
calling on the way at Malindi and Lamu. 

In Kismayu the stone buildings are constructed 

42 



THE BUILDINGS 

of coral rock, with flat roofs, consisting of two storeys 
of rooms with a balcony running outside on a level 
with the upper storey, to which access is obtained by 
means of a broad wooden staircase. The roads in 
the European quarter are also made of crushed coral 
rock and sea-shells dutifully pounded into a hard 
smooth surface by the convicts from the gaol. The 
final appearance of the roads resembles chalk, which, 
combined with the sea, the sand and the white-washed 
houses, causes a terrible glare most trying to the eyes, 
which the green of a few palm trees is quite unable 
to mitigate. The native huts are composed of a 
single room with walls and roof of makuti (palm fibre 
interwoven with reeds and branches). The doors are 
low and narrow, and windows conspicuous by their 
absence. This method of construction renders the 
interior very dark, but cool ; in this way the injurious 
effects on the eyes of the blinding glare outside are 
successfully counteracted, and the ceaseless and un- 
welcome attentions of swarms of flies are discouraged. 
The interior is as simple as the exterior is unpreten- 
tious. A small open fireplace in one corner, and a 
bed or couch, made by stretching a piece of grass 
matting on a low wooden framework, are the most 
notable objects within; sometimes a few rugs of sheep 
or goat skin cover the mud floor, while in another 
corner may be found a few simple cooking utensils 
and receptacles for holding water or ghee. People 
who have not much knowledge of the tropics may 
consider these huts deplorably primitive and barbaric. 
But they are, as a matter of fact, the outcome of long 
experience and are eminently suited to the trying 
climatic conditions that prevail along the coast. If 
circumstances compelled me to live in those regions, 

43 



/ 



GALTI DEPREDATIONS 

I would much prefer to inhabit a hut of this descrip- 
tion than a house of European design. 

It was not long after my arrival that I realised I 
should have to go farther afield than Kismayu to 
obtain my camels, for all available ones had long been 
snapped up by the authorities for the transport of 
supplies to Sarrenleh, a military post on the upper 
Juba River. For 800 men of the King's African 
Rifles were stationed there under eleven white officers 
to patrol the north-eastern corner of Jubaland. This 
was rendered necessary owing to the turbulence of 
the Galti tribe of the Marehan Somali, who had but 
lately entered British territory, having migrated from 
southern Somaliland. True stock raiders, as all 
Somali are at heart, they had caused much trouble by 
practising their favourite pastime on friendly tribes, 
who appealed to the Government for help, and it was 
in answer to this request that a patrol had been 
despatched to restore order and put a stop to the 
looting of cattle. The presence of a small army 
naturally checked the depredations to some extent, 
but such is the character of the Somali, that unless 
the Galti are given a thorough lesson in discipline the 
next time they are caught transgressing, they will 
immediately begin looting again with renewed energy 
as soon as the force is withdrawn. 

Seeing how matters stood, I decided to go over 
to Giumbo and try to obtain permission to buy my 
camels in Italian Somaliland ; so I rode over one 
evening to Gobwein on a camel in company with Mr. 
Dundas, and remained the night there, as the guest 
of Lieutenant Phillips, who was in charge of a small 
detachment of the Camel Corps. Gobwein, which 
means in the Somali language "a large plain," is 

44 



A MILITARY POST 

situated on the very banks of the Juba River. 
Between the village and the sea is a low and narrow 
range of hills, running north and south, approxi- 
mately 200 feet in height, through which the river has 
cut its way, leaving on each side of its bed cliffs that 
rise perpendicularly from the water. On the Juba- 
land side, on the very top of these cliffs, stands the 
little military post of Gobwein, and at their foot 
nestles the village itself, consisting of several hundred 
native huts, an unpretentious bazaar and the Camel 
Corps lines. To the north-west the little hill called 
Helwalud can be seen covered with dense vegetation, 
which grows even more profuse, if possible, as it nears 
the water's edge. But in between Gobwein and 
Helwalud is a plain (from which the former gets its 
name), that stretches away to the north-v/est until it is 
lost to view. In times of great drought immense 
herds of cattle are driven down to water here by the 
Somali, thousands upon thousands of head packed 
tight together, for it is unsafe farther north, owing to 
the tsetse fly that haunts the bush along the river 
banks. 

The Juba is here a broad stream of muddy colour, \ 
which has cut a deep bed for itself in the rich alluvial | h^*^ 
soil. It rises in the mountains of southern Abyssinia ' 
and flows in a southerly direction, but its windings are 
innumerable, and below Sarrenleh its current is very 
slow. The latter place has hitherto been mis-spelt 
"Serenli," owing to ignorance of its true meaning. 
y^In the Somali language the suffix ** leh " is often 
added to a word, and means " containing or possess- 
ing." Sarrenleh means "containing Sarren grass," ^ 
i.e. the place where Sarren grass grows, y Other 

^ Eragrostis papposa. 

45 



( 



VALLEY OF THE JUBA 

names formed in a similar way are, for example, 

Shimbirleh "(pool) of birds," Madoleh, "(place) of 

darkness," and Arnoleh, which means "containing 

milk," in other words, "a good place to graze cattle." 

From Sarrenleh to the sea, the valley of the Juba 

is extraordinarily level, the fall being roughly 500 

feet in 450 miles. ^ The river, which is known locally 

as the Webbe Ganana, rises to its maximum height 

between the months of October and December ; it 

then falls slowly until April, when it begins to rise 

again ; in June the floods subside, in July it is at its 

lowest ebb, but in August it increases once more. 

Between the two low-water periods, shallow draught 

steamers can proceed for nearly 400 miles up 

river. Owing to the extreme flatness of the country, 

it has no important tributary in Jubaland except the 

river Daua. During the rains there are no doubt 

several small streams that temporarily discharge their 

waters into it, and of these probably the largest is 

the outlet from the Deshek Wama. There are 

numerous swamps on both sides that lie just outside 

the belt of tropical vegetation that clothes the banks. 

Above Mfudu the country is at first densely covered 

with forest, but below, as far as Helwalud, the 

country is under cultivation. Maize and sim-sim are 

doing well in the hands of natives, and an English 

company is busy growing cotton in the district 

between Yonti and Helwalud. I was fortunate in 

being able to visit this plantation through the 

kindness of Mr. Gabriel, to whom it belongs, and I 

was very hospitably entertained there by Mr. and 

Mrs. Sargent, who are interested in the estate. 

I was much struck by the extraordinary fertility of 

the soil ; moreover, the physical formation of the 

46 



THE TANA 

country and the nature of the river lend themselves 
admirably to irrigation, so that there appears to be a 
very prosperous future in store for this part of the 
country. 

It is interesting to note that on a map, published 
in the year 1806, the Tana was confused with the 
Juba River. It was known presumably that a large 
stream rose in Abyssinia and flowed southwards. 
Travellers had also certainly reported that an 
important river flowed into the Indian Ocean south 
of Lamu. The draughtsman at home, responsible 
for the map, was evidently struck by these two facts, 
and immediately drew in a new river which rose in 
Abyssinia, flowed across the country which is now 
called Jubaland and poured its water into the sea 
near Lamu. 

On the hill immediately opposite to Gobwein 
stands the little town of Giumbo. This is the 
administrative capital of Italian Somaliland, which 
stretches from the Gulf of Aden to the mouth of 
the Juba River between the Indian Ocean and the 
East African boundary line. To be accurate, it is 
the southern part only of this large territory that 
forms the true Italian colony, for the northern parts 
consist of native states under Italian protection. 

The little town of Giumbo is beautifully kept and 
very clean. There are a number of white officials and 
officers, and their houses are built on European lines. 
In addition to a very nice club, where every one 
meets daily for lunch and dinner, there is a wireless 
station, by means of which the inhabitants are kept 
in touch with the outside world. I was received with 
the utmost cordiality by the " Residente," who 
willingly gave me permission to send my headman 

47 



A CORDIAL RECEPTION 

into the interior to purchase camels, and insisted 
on my riding his mule when I returned to the river, 
before crossing over to Gobwein. In addition, he 
provided me with soldiers to see me safely down, and 
they formed an escort which, although totally un- 
necessary, was highly picturesque. These native 
soldiers wore white cotton shirts and loose trousers 
with crimson belts, and long cock's feathers in their 
red fez, but this uniform does not look nearly so 
smart as that of the Jubaland Camel Corps, The 
latter wear tunic and shirt of a peculiar shade of 
khaki, almost a warm grey in colour, blue puttees, 
and a yellow cap with peak and a white cloth to 
protect the neck. Over this uniform the smartly 
polished brown leather accoutrements look particu- 
larly well. In war time, or when marching, the 
tunic is replaced by a blue cotton jersey, which 
is not only inconspicuous but is highly serviceable. 

Having thus successfully accomplished my 
purpose, and despatched my headman in search 
of camels, I returned to Kismayu, and decided to 
go for a short expedition to the Dibayu Plain while 
awaiting him. I therefore hired five camels from 
an Arab, and having selected the things I should 
need for a few days in the bush, was ready to start 
on the morrow. I always think it is a good plan, 
previous to embarking on a long journey, to take a 
little trip such as this. It enables one to try the 
men, and, if necessary, to weed out the undesirables 
before it is too late ; moreover it gives them a chance 
to know your ways, which may save friction and 
unpleasantness in the future. 



48 



CHAPTER IV 

A SHORT EXPEDITION ACROSS THE 
DIBAYU PLAINS 

There was but little life in the streets of Kismayu 
as I mounted my mule and started off. I had 
already sent ahead the five camels I had hired from 
the Arab with instructions to camp at a rainpool on 
the other side of the sandhills, and with them had 
gone the few porters I needed for collecting wood and 
pitching my tent. So it was but a small cavalcade 
that made its way down the broad sandy street that 
led southwards through the native quarter. I caught 
now and again a glimpse of a shadowy form sleeping 
in the cool darkness of the huts, a few diminutive 
hens were moving restlessly about in search of food, 
and occasionally camels would be seen, solemnly 
chewing the cud in the thin shade of a palm tree. 
All else slept or was at rest, for the hour of the 
siesta was not yet over. 

The little town was soon left behind, and we 
followed a narrow trail that led at first over some 
rolling sanddunes, which soon gave place to a series 
of sandy hillocks covered with dense thorn scrub. 
The ground gradually rose till a moderately high 
ridge was reached, from which an extensive view 
was obtained over the country which lay to the 
south-west. It seemed to be a vast expanse of 
green scrub stretching away to the horizon, in 
D 49 



SCRUB AND CONIFERS 

striking contrast to the white sand and arid appear- 
ance of the dunes through which we had been 
cHmbing. A very noticeable feature on these hills 
was a large number of conifers {Juniperus procera). 
This tree, which is common in many parts of Somali- 
land, Abyssinia and British East Africa, under normal 
conditions is of a pyramidal shape, but here on the 
coast of Jubaland it is flat-topped and table-like. As 
may be seen in our own coasts the effect of wind on 
the growth of trees and shrubs is to prevent them 
from growing perpendicularly, and such trees as the 
oak and hawthorn and even the elm and sycamore 
may be seen stunted and flat-topped from this 
cause. ^ 

Slowly we made our way down into the plains, 
and towards sunset we came upon two " worrta " or 
rain-water pools. Two Somali were filling up their 
leather water-bottles here, and loading them on their 
camels, while their little boys were running around 
playing and laughing. It formed a most picturesque 
scene in the fading light, when both colours and 
outline are softened by the afterglow. A little farther 
on I found my own camels and my tent pitched. 
The following morning I was awakened long before 
dawn, as there was a lengthy march to be accom- 
plished before the next water was reached. The 
headman woke me punctually at 3 a.m., and as usual, 
while I had breakfast, down came the tent, the camels 
were loaded to the accompaniment of loud snarling, 
and we were soon away. I could not see what the 
country was like for the first two hours, although 
the bush looked very dense in the moonlight. It 
was already oppressively hot, and we were all per- 
* The Fields 5, vii. 13, " Juniperus Procera." 
50 



YAK TREES 

spiring freely before the sun rose behind some 
threatening storm clouds ; these gradually dispersed, 
and as the light grew brighter we emerged into a 
large level plain covered with thin scrub and a few 
large yak trees. These trees serve an extremely 
valuable purpose, for often in their thick, stunted stems 
large cavities are to be found, which become full of 
water during the rainy season. It is from the living 
wood round these cavities that the branches spring. 
Native hunters nearly always carry a hollow stick, 
approximately two feet long by half an inch in 
diameter, by means of which they can suck up the 
water from these holes, the opening to them being 
often too narrow to allow them to obtain the water 
in any other way. Whenever they see a number of 
birds collected together in the mornings or evenings 
on one of these trees, experience tells them that water 
will probably be found there. 

I noticed that on many of the larger trees queer 
marks were cut, such as the following "^, 

and on questioning the guide I was told that they 
were cattle brands and indicated what sub-tribes or 
families were grazing their stock in that locality. A 
couple of hours later we entered another belt of thick 
bush. There was no breath of wind, and the heat 
was extremely oppressive, so that we were all glad 
to emerge about an hour later into the next plain, 
where there was a slight breeze. This district is 
called " Dameir Baktis" (meaning "a donkey, its 
corpse," i.e. a dead donkey), so named from the fact 
that a long time ago a small herd of donkeys was 
killed by lions near two very large bushes that are 
still a distinctive feature on these plains. It struck 
me as curious that so extensive a tract should be 

51 



GAME 

named from such a trivial occurrence. For, after all, 
similar events are by no means uncommon in these 
unsettled parts, where lions are a constant menace 
to the Somali and their stock. 

Small herds of game were grazing on the coarse 
grass that covered the plains ; a few gerenuk galloped 
away at our approach, their long necks stretched out 
in a futile attempt to avoid observation as they made 
their way through the scattered scrub. A small band 
of what I took to be Peter's gazelle, and a solitary 
oryx beisa with a single horn gazed for a moment at 
the oncoming caravan, and then they too fled away 
and were soon lost to sight in the bush. They were 
astonishingly shy, but I was still close to the coast, 
and I learned later that the Herti Somali were fond of 
hunting. Not long after we were joined by a wild 
hunter from that tribe. He was neither an interesting 
nor a picturesque figure ; I merely mention him 
because of the very curious wooden pillow he carried, 
of which I shall have more to say in a subsequent 
chapter ; his round war shield, made of giraffe hide, 
also attracted my attention, for it was deeply scarred 
in many places in an unusual way. He told me that 
the shield had once been his brother's ; but the latter 
had been killed one day by a lion while out hunting, 
and the scars I had noticed had been caused by the 
lion's claws in the struggle that took place before his 
brother's death. I was able to persuade him to let 
me have the shield, and it bears eloquent testimony 
to the desperate struggle that had been fought between 
those strano-e antag^onists. 

Towards noon we passed through another narrow 
belt of bush, but emerged again shortly into Dibayu 
Plain. Grass was more abundant here, showing that 

52 



A CHARACTERISTIC SCENE 

a fairly plentiful supply of rain had fallen, and soon 
we reached two shallow pools, around which a small 
herd of native cattle were resting during the heat of 
the day, huddled together in the scanty shade afforded 
by a few low camel-thorn trees. A couple of hundred 
yards away was a group of Somali huts surrounded 
by a thorn fence, above which hovered and wheeled 
innumerable vultures. 

I camped here, and spent the afternoon in taking 
photographs. Towards evening I was visited by the 
headman of the village, who brought me a sheep and 
some milk. He carried a large black umbrella, and 
no weapons, but was dressed in the usual white " Tobe," 
as were his followers. The whole scene was very 
characteristic of Jubaland, and typical of many others 
that I was to see later on my journey to the Lorian. 
It reminded me very vividly of passages in the Old 
Testament ; the same conditions are found to-day as 
prevailed two thousand years ago by the shores of the 
Dead Sea. I held a long conversation with him 
through my interpreter, but unlike most Somali, he 
was stupid and unintelligent, and I could get little 
information from him. He told me, however, that 
his village was about to move south, as water was 
getting scarce in Dibayu. Having obtained all the 
news I could, I gave him a small present and then 
dismissed him. 

The following morning I started shortly before 
dawn in a south-easterly direction across the plains ; 
occasionally we passed through thin belts of bush, but 
on the whole the scenery was very monotonous, the 
country being too flat and overgrown with low 
scrub to afford any extensive view. Animal life was 
also little in evidence, but while on the march I was 

53 



A USEFUL TREE 

able to obtain a silver-backed jackal (Cams mesomelas). 
These beautiful little animals are among the most 
handsome of the smaller carnivora, their bright rufous 
coat showing up in vivid contrast to the silver-coloured 
patch along the back, from which they get their name. 
I noticed, among other small birds, a species of horn- 
bill {Lophoceros medianus) whose harsh note and 
curiously uneven flight, continuously dipping and then 
rising again, renders it very conspicuous. 

Some four hours later we reached another small 
Somali " boma " or village, and I camped near a 
clump of "araru" trees, about half a mile farther 
on. These trees, which resemble a diminutive baobab 
tree, are much valued by the natives, as by peeling 
off the smooth outer bark they obtain a tough and 
resilient fibre, from which the women make many 
useful household utensils. The camel mats, which 
serve also as a covering for their huts, are skilfully 
woven of grass, and tied together with this fibre, 
which renders them extremely durable. While waiting 
for the camels I strolled down to the water-hole, 
which lay a quarter of a mile distant, to see what it 
was like. The bush was very dense all round, but 
situated in a little clearing were five shallow depres- 
sions or pans, averaging 15 yards broad by 30 yards 
long, filled with rain-water to a depth of about 
6 inches. The water was grey-brown, covered with 
patches of green slime, and was much soiled with 
the dung of cattle and goats. The pools had evidently 
been far larger, but they were fast drying up, and 
the Somali were already moving to "pastures new." 
I took the temperature of the water in the largest 
pan, and my thermometer showed 84*5° in the deepest 
parts and slightly more at the edge. 

54 



A SOMALI FAMILY 

Whilst I was taking some theodolite observations 
here, a typical Somali family passed on their way to 
a new camp. First came the father, accompanied by 
a little girl about twelve years old, driving some fifty 
head of cattle and half a dozen donkeys. The man 
was fully armed with spear, shield and knife, and 
carried in addition a small gourd of water, his wooden 
pillow and a tooth stick. Having allowed the animals 
to drink they passed on, and were shortly followed by 
a woman, presumably his wife, leading a large camel. 
On it were the fibre and grass mats, called " Herios," 
the curved posts of their hut, several water-bottles 
made of gourds or wood and hung in wicker baskets, 
and various other household groods. The woman 
stopped to have a drink, and was joined by a very old 
man, probably her father, and two tiny children ; she 
made the latter drink by dipping her two hands in 
the water, thus improvising a cup, and when they 
had all satisfied their thirst, they too passed on, and 
were soon swallowed up in the thick bush. 

While working near camp in the evening I shot 
another silver-backed jackal, a female, and so secured 
a pair from this district. There were also many 
vulturine guinea-fowls about, of which I shot two. 
This exceedingly handsome game-bird is very 
common throughout southern Jubaland, and later on 
in the interior, where all other food is extremely 
scarce, it formed the "piece de resistance" of my 
daily menu. 

My next move was eastwards towards the sand- 
hills which separate Dibayu Plain from the sea. In 
the early dawn there was the usual bustle and 
confusion on striking camp, while the tents came 
down and the loads were made up, but in this case it 

55 



A CHARMING SCENE 

was intensified owing to the objections of one of the 
camels to being loaded. There was consequently 
much excitement among the syces ; everyone, includ- 
ing most of the Somali from the village, was giving 
advice and generally getting in one another's way, 
while the camel snarled and gurgled, making the most 
hideous din. Before his load was finally adjusted, 
he manaored to smash one bucket and several minor 
articles of less importance. All this delayed the 
start till 5.30, but as there was only a short march to 
be accomplished, it was of no great consequence. 
The whole caravan straggled through the bush along 
a narrow sandy trail that wound its tortuous way 
through the acacias, mimosas and scrub that covered 
the hillside. Only once did we come to a clearing, 
a beautiful little meadow with green grass, starred 
with wild flowers and shaded by three huge yak 
trees. In the centre nestled a tiny rainpool, as yet 
unsoiled, with a ring of clean white sand between it 
and the vivid green of the grass. There were many 
brightly coloured birds and many curious tracks, 
those of giant lizards and rats, whose broad tails had 
left a smooth line between their footprints, and all 
around and about signs and tracks of dik-dik and 
guinea-fowl. Two hours later the crest was reached, 
and here I pitched camp in the shade of some huge 
acacia trees. Only water was lacking, but it was a 
lovely, picturesque spot, and the north-east monsoon 
tempered the heat which had been so trying on the 
plains. Two days were spent here in shooting and 
working, and I was able to add to my collection, 
among other animals, three dik-dik and fifteen 
species of birds. The dik-dik, of which I shall have 
more to say in a subsequent chapter, are found in 

56 



A FINE LEOPARD 

this district in the most extraordinary numbers, but 
owing to the thickness of the undergrowth they 
are hard to see. While creeping very slowly and 
cautiously through the bush in search of them I 
suddenly came across a fine leopard ; as he rose, I 
fired two shots at him with my shot-gun, very 
unwisely, but I had no other weapon ; for a second 
I thought he would charge, but he changed his mind, 
and with a low snarl turned and vanished into the 
bush before I could reload. Although I followed 
the blood spoor some distance, I never found him, 
much to my disappointment, and though later I often 
came across fresh leopard spoor I never saw another. 
They are, as anyone who has hunted them knows, 
very hard to bag, and in Jubaland this Is especially 
the case, owing to the dense undergrowth. They 
appear to feed mainly on dik-dik and gerenuk, which 
are very numerous everywhere. In rare cases, when 
pressed by hunger, they may attack larger game, and 
in one instance I found a young giraffe killed by 
leopards after a desperate struggle. 

All through the march from this camp down to 
the sea, near Gondal, the half-sneeze, half-whistle of 
a frightened dik-dik was constantly heard, and I saw 
quite a number in spite of the thickness of the bush. 
Down by the seashore also I saw some cranes and 
several pelicans, but they were out of range and very 
wild, so that I was unable to obtain a specimen. 

Gondal is a small flat promontory, T-shaped, that 
forms the southern extremity of Kismayu Bay. 
Within a quarter of a mile inland from its base are 
some very remarkable ruins. They consist of the 
remains of two buildings and a shrine; the accompany- 
ing photograph shows what is left of the latter. They 

57 



REMARKABLE RUINS 

are built of coral rock ; the walls are nearly 3 feet 
thick, and about 2,0 feet long. There is a door- 
way in one of the houses, flanked by pillars, and this, 
as well as the opening of the shrine, faces south. The 
latter is a most curious ruin, and is covered with a 
simple type of carving cut into the coral rock to a 
depth of about a quarter of an inch. The entrance, 
which is about 4 feet high, is arched, and at the top 
the stone has been cut into the shape of an inverted 
heart, while the walls on both sides are covered 
with carving.^ The interior is smooth, apparently 
plastered over, but the floor has crumbled away. To 
the north of the houses I found a quantity of broken 
but highly glazed pottery of a kind that is quite 
unlike any manufactured by the natives to-day ; 
especially interesting were some pieces of china, the 
bottom of a stone ewer and a piece of glass that 
would appear to have been the neck of a bottle or 
flask. These ruins are so buried in the dense bush 
that it would be easy to pass close by without seeing 
them. I learned from Captain Salkeld and Dr. 
Wilson that there are remains of a similar nature 
on the Bajun Islands farther south, and the latter 
was fortunate enough to obtain several unbroken 
specimens of what seemed to be oil lamps, unmistak- 
ably Persian in design. Repeated inquiries elicited 
no information from the Somali as regards the origin 
of these ruins ; they said that they were in the same 
condition when they entered the country ; the Galla 
seemed to know no more. Captain Stigand, in his 
book, T/ie Land of Zinj^ has given some very 
interesting information concerning the ruins he 

^ Similar ornamentation occurs above the doorway of the old Persian 
monastery of Lamu. 

58 



PERSIAN RUINS 

discovered farther south, near Lamu, but at present 
the origin of these traces of the early occupation of 
the Jubaland coast remains very obscure. 

The cool wind from the north-east made Gondal 
a very pleasant place to camp in ; bathing was 
delightful in the evening and early morning, and it 
was with regret that I turned north along the coast 
towards Kismayu, whose white buildings could be 
seen across the bay nestling among the sanddunes. 



59 



CHAPTER V 

FINAL PREPARATIONS AND START FROM 
KISMAYU 

On arriving at Kismayu I was again very hospitably 
entertained, this time by Captain Salkeld, the Pro- 
vincial Commissioner, who had just returned from 
Mombasa, where he had been on official business ; 
and for the following days before I left on my long 
journey inland I was his guest. Much remained to 
be done before I could depart ; my provision and 
trade goods had been purchased already, but I had 
to choose my men, get their clothes and outfits, collect 
the pack-saddles, ropes, girths and mats for the 
camels, and finally to inspect tents, water-bottles and 
water-tanks, rifles, ammunition and all the innumer- 
able details upon which not only the success but even 
the safety of an expedition depends. The selection 
of a suitable variety of trade goods is of the utmost 
importance, and in this my headman was invaluable, 
being himself a Mohammed Zubheir Somali born in 
the interior of Jubaland. I shall refer in Appendix C 
to the various articles which I found most useful, 
but I should like to emphasise the fact that it is 
the worst possible policy to stint oneself as regards 
presents for natives. However distasteful it may be 
to spend money in this direction it is absolutely 
essential to give somewhat lavishly (as it may appear 
at first), for it not only keeps the natives in a con- 

60 



PACK-SADDLES 

tented frame of mind, but it makes them anxious to 
help in the hope of further favours ; moreover, it 
distracts their attention from your real object, and 
in this way much can be accomplished that would 
otherwise be impossible. At the same time the 
presents must be given judiciously in proportion to 
the social importance of the recipient ; otherwise 
jealousy and ill-feeling will be aroused, which is very 
hard to overcome. 

The pack-saddles I used were made for me by 
Arabs at Kismayu. They consist of two V-shaped 
pieces of wood, connected by transverse bars. The 
former are made from a single branch of a tree, and 
are well dried and seasoned. In choosing a saddle 
great care has to be taken to see that the V is not 
too broad ; for, if it is, the saddle comes too far 
down on the back of the camel and soon causes a 
nasty sore. The inside of this primitive saddle is 
padded by means of two small gunny sacks tightly 
packed with grass or dry seaweed ; and to the near 
side of the saddle is attached a long and thin girth, 
made of fibre or plaited rope - strands. This is 
tightened by means of a small cord running through 
a noose at the end of the girth on the offside of 
the camel. There are two mats to be added above 
the saddle before the load can be tied on. One, 
consisting of a large sack about 4 feet square and 
filled with seaweed, is placed over the hump behind 
the saddle and tied tightly to the latter, while the 
other, which is merely a long strip of matting, hangs 
down on either side of the camel to prevent loads from 
chafing the animal's body. Two stout poles must 
be provided, to which are attached 30 feet of grass 
rope for tying on the loads ; the latter, divided into 

61 



EXPORT AND IMPORT DUTIES 

two approximately equal packs, are each securely tied, 
and then in turn are lashed tog-ether on the camel's 
back just above the saddle tree. It will be easily 
seen, therefore, that to get the whole outfit together 
requires time, and I spared no pains to see that 
everything was as good as possible, in order that 
I might keep my camels in good condition, for only 
thus can the maximum amount of work be obtained 
from them. 

When all my preparations were nearly completed, 
I heard from my headman that my camels were 
waiting for me at Giumbo ; so I rode over to 
Gobwein on one of the riding camels that Mr. 
Dundas had very kindly placed at my disposal. 
It took me a day to complete the custom formalities, 
for there is an export duty of Rs. 7.50 on each animal 
from Italian Somaliland, and an import duty of 10 
per cent, ad valoi'em into Jubaland. For mules the 
tariff is even higher, the export duty in their case 
being Rs. 35. I am unable to understand why the 
British authorities should levy custom duties on 
cattle and camels brought into their territory. The 
demand for them, especially for any kind of beast 
of burden, is far greater than the supply, and there- 
fore it would seem only sensible to encourage 
importers of such animals. So great is the difficulty 
of obtaining camels that both the military and civil 
authorities are obliged to hire them from the Arabs 
and Somali at the ruinous charge of Rs. i per diem, 
and are liable to pay Rs. 75 in case of death, besides 
the amount incurred for work done previously. The 
native traders therefore calculate that within a month 
of coming down to the coast they can earn the 
original cost of the camel, and every day's work 

62 



CROSSING THE JUBA RIVER 

after is clear profit ; for they send their camels out 
to graze in the middle of the day, and their keep 
therefore costs nothing. 

Getting the camels across the Juba River was 
a slow and tedious proceeding. Early in the 
morning they were collected close to the shore on 
the Italian side in charge of my head camel syce, 
a handsome Herti Somali of about thirty-five years 
of age, Farar Ali by name, whom I had engaged 
the day before. He had served as orderly and inter- 
preter to an officer in the K.A.R. some years before, 
and his frank cheerful countenance impressed me 
very favourably. Nor was my first estimate of his 
character falsified by subsequent events, for he 
proved invaluable, faithful, obliging and hard- 
working, and a better companion in the bush it 
would be impossible to find. Sixteen natives 
manned a large fiat-bottomed boat, and the camels 
were led two by two to the water's edge, not without 
difficulty ; for no animal is more helpless in the mud 
than they, and many times I thought they would 
slip and break a leg. Once there, they were made 
to lie down ; a noose was slipped over their lower 
jaw and they were dragged over the mud, powerless 
to resist, to the side of the boat ; the crazy old barge 
was then poled out into the river, three men holding 
the camels' heads above water. Once they had 
reached the other side, the animals struggled out 
with much splashing and gurgling ; they were then 
untied, when they at once rolled in the clean sand, 
and kneeling down patiently awaited the coming 
of the others. Only two camels were brought over 
at a time, so it took seven trips to complete the 
passage of my fourteen animals, and it was not till 

63 



CHOOSING THE SYCES 

nearly sunset that they were all safely across. They 
were then led away to feed slowly through the night 
under the supervision of Farar Ali, and arrived at 
Kismayu early the following day. 

I had in the meantime engaged six more syces. 
I took care to select those who had had but little ex- 
perience of civilisation and were thus unspoiled, and I 
was much helped by my headman, who was a wonder- 
ful judge of character. They were each provided 
with a crimson shirt, so that in case of a night attack 
in the interior it would be possible to quickly distin- 
guish friend from foe ; and in addition they were 
given a pair of shorts, sandals and a blanket. 

I also purchased four more camels from 
Mohammed Aden, chief of the Herti Somali. He 
receives a monthly salary of Rs. 75 from the Govern- 
ment, in return for which he is supposed to help the 
officials in every way. The Herti have now realised 
the value of trade, and, though despising in their 
hearts the " Ferinji" (the white man, literally, "the 
proud one "), are quite willing to submit to his rule 
in order to obtain the benefits which this submis- 
sion gains for them. But a more contemptible old 
scoundrel than Mohammed Aden it has seldom been 
my lot to encounter. Not only does he impose on 
the good-nature of the officials, but he is suspected, 
on one occasion at least, of plotting the murder of a 
white man when camping in the interior, by sending 
to the native chiefs of the districts inland letters 
calculated to arouse all their worst passions against 
the perfectly innocent and friendly traveller. The 
paramount chief of the Herti is really Mohammed 
Shirwa, a handsome boy of some eighteen years of 
age, and Mohammed Aden is only acting as regent 

64 







U 



THE START 

until the former is ready to take the affairs of the 
tribe into his own hands. 

Everything was ready for my departure, when I 
was suddenly taken ill with dysentery. Lately I had 
been feeling far from well, and now I had to give in 
altogether, though the delay was terribly exasperat- 
ing. Six days later I was sufficiently well to get up, 
and, weak though I was, I decided, perhaps unwisely, 
to start two days afterwards. My caravan consisted 
of my headman Dahir Omar, my interpreter Hassan 
Mohammed, my gun-bearer, skinner, syce, a personal 
boy whom I had had on a previous expedition, a Swahili 
cook, seven camel syces, six porters from Mombasa, 
four Somali police or Askaris, and a Herti guide who 
was to accompany me as far as the district of Joreh. 
I had eighteen camels, of which five were used solely 
for carrying the ten water-tanks so essential to the 
traveller in Jubaland. The Government's travelling 
allowance for its officials is twenty-five camels, so 
it will be seen that I had cut my loads down to a 
minimum. My own personal equipment, tent, bed- 
ding, instruments, guns, collecting boxes, and stores 
for four months, weighed nine hundred pounds, or 
three camel loads, while the other ten camels carried 
the men's tents, cooking-pots, rice and trade goods. 
On the day I started I sent the caravan on ahead 
with instructions to pitch camp in the plains beyond 
the sandhills, and I set out myself late in the after- 
noon of the same day. 

At first the trail led across the hills behind 
Kismayu, winding in and out among the giant um- 
brella trees, until the crest was reached. Turnino- 
back, I gazed for some time upon the beautiful scene 
that lay below, at Kismayu and at the ocean beyond, 
E 65 



A CAMP SCENE 

for it would be many months before I should again 
see any town or even a village. I then descended 
into the plains that lay to the west. In the midst of 
the thick bush on the lower slopes were several large 
yak trees, in one of which was a natural cavity 
containing some fifty gallons of rain-water. For 
two hours we made our way through the scrub until 
at last, when the sun was sinking, we emerged into a 
little open plain where my camp was pitched. My 
own tent was in the centre, with the porters' little 
white tents behind, while all round the camp the 
headman had built a three-foot thorn hedge ; inside 
were my eighteen camels with all the loads, saddles, 
etc., piled near by, while an Askari kept guard over 
the only entrance. It was typical of many a camp 
scene I was to see daily throughout my journey, and 
I was filled with joy at the thought that a start had 
been made at last. As I rode into the boma the 
piled rifles and the bandoliered men were a grim re- 
minder to me of the condition of the country I was 
going to traverse ; but they were really a precaution 
and an emblem of authority more than anything else, 
for in case of a serious attack four police and seven 
armed but undisciplined syces would be of little 
avail. 

Early the following morning, after a night marred 
by the attentions of countless mosquitoes, I set out 
towards the north, intending to see if I could obtain 
a specimen of the Grant's gazelle which I knew to be 
fairly plentiful in this district. I had hardly gone a 
mile when I saw in the distance a cloud of dust, 
which, as I soon made out, was caused by some of 
these animals, which were running round in the 
bush, presumably in play. I hastily took my rifie and 

66 



GRANTS GAZELLE 

set out after them. The wind was right, and there 
was plenty of cover, so I was soon fairly close to them. 
As they were now feeding quietly towards me, 
totally unconscious of my presence, I lay down to 
wait for them, and in about twenty minutes a fine 
buck came out from behind a bush about a hundred 
and fifty yards off". I fired, hitting him a trifle behind 
the heart. At the shot four more appeared, and all 
five made a tremendous dash towards me, but, 
suddenly catching sight of my mule and followers in 
the distance, halted and turned within fifteen yards 
of where I lay behind the bush. I had a glimpse of 
these beautiful gazelles, their graceful heads and 
slender horns, before firing again. The buck 
collapsed to the shot, the bullet entering just above 
the tail and lodging under the skin of the chest. On 
examining it I was immensely pleased to notice that 
it was a variety of Grant's gazelle that was entirely 
new to me. Although in bodily size and horn- 
measurement it resembled a Peter's gazelle, yet in 
colour it was more closely akin to Bright's gazelle. 
In a subsequent chapter I propose to deal more 
fully with these differences, and to describe in detail 
the characteristics of what is undoubtedly a distinct 
race of Grant's gazelle. 

I did not go out again till the afternoon, when I 
made my way slowly on foot through the most 
atrociously thick bush and thorn-scrub to the top of 
Eyladera, the low ridge that runs north-east and south- 
west between Gobwein and Yonti, in order to do 
some geographical work. In spite of the heat and 
thorns, I was very glad I came, for when I reached 
the summit the view well repaid me for my trouble. 
To the north and the east the Juba River, fringed with 

67 



A MONOTONOUS SCENE 

a broad crreen belt of veo-etation, twisted and writhed 
across the plain like some monstrous snake, till I lost 
sight of it beyond Yonti. Southwards, the low red 
sandhills near the coast gave a warm note of colour 
to the landscape, but it was towards the west that I 
looked longest, for there lay my way. Three 
hundred feet below, the plain began and stretched 
away, as far as the eye could reach, absolutely flat 
without ridge or hollow, and without one single object 
to break the monotony of the scene. Even the brilliant 
sunlioht was unable to relieve the utter dreariness 
of that great expanse of desert scrub. But it was 
unknown, a blank on every map, and I was filled 
with joy to think that it was to be my home for 
weeks, perhaps months, and that day by day it 
would reveal to me its secrets, from which, as they 
were unravelled, I hoped my map would grow. And 
then my thoughts turned to people who live amid 
the bush, the people I should meet, who make it 
their home during the rains — nomads, dwellers in 
tents, living the same life now as In the days of the 
Old Testament, tending their flocks in endless search 
of water and pasture, moving with the seasons, rest- 
less and warlike. 

The following day I was able to obtain another 
silver-backed jackal, which completed my series of 
them from the Kismayu district. Later, close to 
camp, I saw three gerenuk, one of which had good 
horns. It took me, however, quite a long time to 
get within range, as they were feeding away from me, 
but finally, as I was crawling round a bush, the buck 
grew suspicious and turned round, giving me rather 
a difficult shot at about 200 yards. Greatly to my 
delight I heard the bullet clap loudly, the poor brute 

68 



A CIVET CAT 

gave a convulsive leap forward and then fell quite 
dead. Although fully adult, he was distinctly small in 
bodily size, and compared very unfavourably in that 
respect with others I had shot in the highlands of 
East Africa. I was to learn later that this decrease 
in size is apparent in all the common specimens of 
the game I shot in Jubaland. It would seem prob- 
able that the poor grazing and the hard physical 
conditions of the country which they inhabit are the 
causes of this. I spent several days in this district 
hunting and working, but saw little game except a 
few dik-dik and some small birds, of which I shot 
several for my collection. 

The night previous to my departure from this 
camp was not without incident. I turned in about 
8.30, and was fast asleep when, at ten o'clock, my 
boy, Juma, came in and woke me, saying that, " There 
was a little thing outside to shoot." So, hastily 
putting on a pair of boots, I crept out with my shot- 
gun, and sure enough I saw some small animal in 
the moonlight just outside the boma. It heard me 
coming, but as it turned to run I fired and killed it, 
a clear proof of how bright the moon was. The 
camp was instantly in a hubbub, as every one woke 
at the shot and came running out with their rifles. 
It was exceedingly amusing to watch them before 
they realised what had happened. The midnight 
visitor turned out to be an exceedingly pretty little 
animal with small, pointed grey head and beady eyes, 
a grey body with rich brown spots on it, and a ringed 
black and grey tail, while all down the back was a 
crest of long black hairs. It appears to be a civet 
cat ( Viverra civetta). 

After it had been carefully put away I returned 

69 



THE EYLAD BUSH 

to bed, but it seemed scarcely a few moments later 
when I was again awakened, and I could already see 
the loads being done up and the camels being 
saddled. We finally started, shortly after three 
o'clock, and marched across a perfectly flat and dusty 
plain, which in the rainy season must, I should 
imagine, become somewhat swampy, until at noon we 
reached the edo^e of what the o^uide told me was the 
Eylad bush. The Eylad water-hole was still twelve 
miles on, but as I did not yet wish to over-exert 
myself by taking long marches in my present weak 
condition, I decided to camp here and proceed the 
following morning. It had been very hot and muggy 
all day, and at 2.45 there was a heavy storm to the 
west, great black clouds and obvious rain, which 
cleared off about four, when the air cooled somewhat. 
I did not go out again in the afternoon, as I knew I 
should not see any game, this part of the country 
being too hopelessly arid even for such desert dwellers 
as the gerenuk and Grant's gazelle. 



70 



CHAPTER VI 

A CHAPTER OF ACCIDENTS 

I LEFT Dol, by which name my last camp was known, 
just before 5 a.m., and in an hour's time, as the sun 
was rising above Eyladera, we left the plain and 
entered the real bush. In all my life I have never 
seen such a tangle, such thick, clinging, thorny scrub, 
twelve feet high, leafless, grey and dead-looking. 
Fortunately there was a native trail running due 
west to Eylad (white well), and this we followed for 
two and a half hours, before emerging into a delightful 
little meadow of ten or twelve acres, with thick green 
grass and two large circular depressions in the centre 
full of rain-water. I later discovered, by careful ob- 
servation, that the ground for miles around slopes 
very gradually, and, to the casual observer, imper- 
ceptibly, down to these pools, which, when full, contain 
sufficient water for four hundred cattle for at least 
three months. As I rode out into this delightful 
spot, I saw a large number of guinea-fowl feeding, 
and a dik-dik disappearing into the bush. I fired 
and got a guinea-fowl, and a second as they rose, 
and, hastily reloading, I shot a francolin as it came 
flying directly overhead. These two game birds 
are common throughout Jubaland, and are both 
exceedingly handsome specimens. 

In the francolin {Pternistes infuscatus) the head 
and upper part of the neck are devoid of feathers. 

71 



ELEPHANTS' SPOOR 

The bare skin of the face and throat is a brilliant 
red, abruprly changing to yellow on the neck. This 
colouring in life is very striking and beautiful, but 
in the dry skin it fades into a uniform dull brown, 
and gives no idea of the gradation of the rich crimson 
of the upper portion into the clear lemon-yellow of 
the lower parts of the neck. Neither of these birds 
affords really good sport, as they trust for escape 
rather to their legs than to their wings. When 
flushed they rise with a tremendous whirr, flying 
away in a straight course, and their large size and 
steady flight make them an easy mark. The harsh 
chattering cry of the francolin is most characteristic 
and cannot be mistaken, and it soon becomes one of 
the most familiar sounds to the traveller in Jubaland. 

In the afternoon, while investigating the country 
in the vicinity of my camp, I killed several more 
guinea-fowl, of which I lost three, owing to the 
thickness of the bush, which prevented our finding 
them. I also noticed some elephants' spoor, but 
none of it was fresh, and they appeared to have 
left the district, trekking westwards. I now proposed 
to march due west, in which direction lay the Guran- 
lagga, according to existing maps, but my guide 
insisted on going north-west, as he said that the 
bush was so dense that we should be unable to make 
our way through it in a direct line with camels. 

The following day we left camp at 3 a.m., and 
proceeded by moonlight through a country similar to 
that which we had traversed the day before. As 
dawn broke, it revealed a scene of luxuriant vegetation 
such as is always associated with tropical Africa. 
Huge trees festooned with creepers and brightly 
coloured flowers, brilliantly feathered birds flitting 

72 




Our Guide 

He was a Somili of tl e Herii tribe ; notice the fringe to his " Tobe," which was striped yellow and 
white, and the broad-bladed thrusting spear. 



LUXURIANT VEGETATION 

in and out amongst the branches, tall grass and 
shrubs in astonishing profusion, formed an almost 
theatrical picture to which the finishing touches were 
added by a thick white mist that rose from the 
ground, blurring the outlines and adding mystery 
to the scene. As the sun grew hotter, a perfect 
swarm of small flies collected around us, maddening 
the camels and driving my men and myself almost 
crazy. There was not a breath of air, and, to make 
matters worse, huge storm-clouds were quietly 
gathering, rendering the air oppressive beyond de- 
scription. At last, close on 8 a.m., we reached a 
small Somali boma, and about a quarter of a mile 
beyond I camped near a little rain-pool. The camels 
did not arrive for another hour, having had trouble 
with the loads in the bush. The storm threatened 
all the morning, but did not break till 2 o'clock, when 
rain came down with truly tropical violence. In three- 
quarters of an hour we actually filled eight tanks 
(ninety-six gallons) and two buckets with rain-water. 
It cleared up completely by three o'clock, and the sun 
came out, making the atmosphere, already stifling, 
perfectly indescribable. But, on the whole, the rain 
was really a blessing, as the water was clear and sweet, 
a delightful change from the usual kind found in the 
bush, which is either full of mud or tastes strongly 
of the animals which have been watering there. 

When the storm was over, I went out in search 
of game, as I had been told that there were oryx and 
topi in this district, but I saw no traces of them, and 
came back in disgust about dark, very much exhausted. 
We broke camp at half-past three the following 
morning, marching northwards, but at the very start 
there was an unfortunate accident, my servant, Juma, 

1Z 



SOMALI BOMAS 

slipping in the mud left by yesterday's rain and 
cutting his shin to the bone on a piece of wood. He 
was much scared at the sight of blood flowing rather 
freely, and wept copiously ; however, I quickly bound 
up the wound, and, as he was obviously incapable of 
walking, put him on my mule, and we proceeded on 
our way. I passed two Somali bomas of about 
fourteen huts each, in little clearings in the bush, 
and unloaded at a third. There were several tiny 
children playing outside the boma, who, on seeing 
me, fled howling to their mothers. I was soon 
surrounded by the male population of the village, 
numbering about fifteen fully-armed men (one with 
an ugly-looking hatchet), but on walking forward 
with the interpreter and explaining that I had come 
merely to shoot and amuse myself, they became quite 
friendly, putting away their weapons and bringing 
me milk and ghee. In my turn I gave them some 
"buni" or Somali coffee, and I further cemented our 
friendship by presenting several of the youngest boys 
of the village with small presents. One of them, 
who could scarcely have been more than a couple 
of years old, came clinging to his father's leg and 
seemed perfectly terrified, but I managed to pacify 
him by giving him a piece of cloth for his mother. 
Its crude colours seemed to soothe his fears, and, 
giving me an enchanting smile, he clutched it in his 
tiny fists and toddled off to the boma to his mother. 

In the afternoon I marched on again towards 
the north, as the bush, in a westerly direction, was 
impenetrable. The country alternated between dense 
jungle and little open plains, but the going was easy, 
as we were following an old elephant trail. Old spoor 
of this kind was very common, although just before 

74 



THE DESHEK WAMA 

camping I came across some very fresh tracks of a 
small cow-elephant, and near by the pug marks of 
a lion, almost equally fresh ; but of antelopes I saw- 
no slo-n at all. 

o 

Although heavy clouds gathered in the afternoon, 
no rain fell, and towards evening the sun came out 
again with renewed intensity. During the second 
part of the journey, Juma travelled tied on to one 
of the camels, as I did not fancy walking all day if 
it could be avoided. 

On the following day I had a renewed attack of 
dysentery, but was compelled to proceed until water 
was reached. This we found in considerable quantities 
ten miles farther on, in a little valley that sloped 
downwards in a northerly direction towards the 
Deshek Wama. The latter is a large, shallow de- 
pression about sixteen miles long by two broad, which 
used to contain permanent water, thus forming a 
natural lake. It was fed by a stream that issued 
from the Juba, and also, during the rains, by the 
combined waters of the Lak Jiro and Lak Dera, 
while in turn it was drained by a stream that joined 
the Juba River again just above Yonti. But the 
feeder has now been cut off by an artificial bank, 
and the Deshek Wama is dry, except during the 
rainy season. The valley, where I camped, occupied 
almost the exact position on the map that had 
previously been assigned to El Lin Swamp, from 
which the Guranlagga was said to rise and flow 
southwards. But to the natives this name is un- 
known, and, though questioned separately, they all 
referred to it as Seyera. It is a shallow valley 
whose sides are covered with jungle, while the bottom 
forms a small swamp three miles long by half a 

75 



A TRYING TIME 

mile broad. This is drained by a small stream that 
runs into the Deshek Wama at a place called Soya. 
From the head of the valley the country rises 
gradually towards the south, with an average slope 
of I : 800, so that it was at once obvious that the 
Guranlao-aa did not flow southwards, and that there- 
fore existing maps were at fault. My guide also de- 
clared that it was still three days' march from Seyera 
and that it flowed west to east, and I discovered later 
that his statements were not far wrong. 

The next sixteen days were a very trying ordeal 
to me. Between attacks of acute dysentery I 
managed to do a little work, and by short and 
painful marches reached the little district of Gururu, 
which is situated some sixteen miles west of Seyera 
Swamp. Here I had to give in, and while lying 
seriously ill, I sent back to Kismayu for various 
things I needed. I was disheartened, and almost 
despaired of being able to accomplish my purpose 
of reaching the Lorian Swamp. It was an unenviable 
position, for although I was extremely ill and in great 
pain, 1 was compelled to issue orders daily to my 
headman, and keep my men busy. I lacked invalid 
food of any kind, for I had been obliged to cut down 
my own provisions to the barest minimum, and a 
continued diet of weak tea and toast, although harm- 
less, was not calculated to check my growing physical 
weakness. The damp, enervating heat night and 
day, when the whole world seemed steaming, and 
the unpleasant attentions of a variety of insects, 
which ranged from mosquitoes and flies to wood-lice 
and giant spiders, added greatly to my discomforts. 
As a last misfortune, malarial fever broke out among 
my men, and I was obliged to attend to the sick 

76 



MY HERTI GUIDE 

every evening, although I was so exhausted myself 
that I had to be carried out of my tent to my table, 
where I could dispense medicine to them. At last 
my illness took a turn for the better, and I received 
at the same time from Kismayu, in answer to my 
message, medicines, invalid food, consisting of eggs, 
cocoa and biscuits, and a stretcher in which I could 
be carried back in case of necessity. And here I 
must again express my great indebtedness to Mr. 
Dundas for the trouble he took on my behalf, and 
for the unfailing kindness he showed me. 

As I grew stronger I passed much time in a 
shelter I had had built near my tent ; here my chair 
was placed, and I would sit and rest, reading and 
re-reading the books I had with me, and smoke or 
doze the long hours away, longing to be up and 
working once again. The days passed pleasantly 
and quietly ; I wandered round the camp, took some 
snapshots, and saw that everything was in good 
order, so that I might start as soon as I felt strong 
enough. I had long been anxious to obtain a 
photograph of my Herti guide, but till now I had 
not been successful in persuading him to sit for me, 
for nearly all Somali have a great objection to doing 
so, either from a superstitious fear of the unknown, 
or because, by twisting the meaning of certain words 
in the Koran, they have come to the conclusion that 
the law forbids it. But at last, I thought that if 
he saw the picture on the ground glass, his scruples 
might be overcome. And my plan succeeded, for, 
on seeing the people upside down on the focusing 
screen, he was immensely amused, and thought it 
a splendid joke ! He told me that if my object 
was merely to view people in that ridiculous position 

n 



TRAYELLING UNDER DIFFICULTIES 

he could see no harm in it, and forthwith agreed to 
be photographed as often as I wished ! I allowed 
him to continue in this belief, for his interpretation 
of my actions was pleasing and unsophisticated, and 
could do no harm to anyone. 

While at Gururu, I witnessed a curious incident. 
I was sitting in front of my tent after tea, when I 
saw a laroe o-reen snake come out from the thorn 
fence, which surrounded my camp, in pursuit of a 
frog, which he caught and swallowed, before my 
eyes, not three yards away. I quickly got my 
whip and killed it, having noted the time. Exactly 
nine and a half minutes after the frog had been 
swallowed, I had the snake's stomach opened and 
found the frog still living, and, though dazed at 
first, it soon began to hop about. However, he 
too had to be sacrificed on the altar of science, and 
they both found their way into the collecting box. 

On I ith January I decided to move on westwards, 
for, although far from having completely recovered, 
it was very necessary that I should continue my 
journey. I had only a limited supply of food, and 
I feared lest the water should dry up in the arid 
country that lies between Kurde and the Lorian, 
which would make it impossible for me to reach the 
latter place. As I wished to husband my resources, 
I put my pride in my pocket, and was carried in a 
stretcher. The porters shared the work of carrying 
me and of clearing the road, while my syce came 
behind leading the mule, on which was attached my 
medicine chest and a little food, so that I might 
have something to eat on arriving at the spot where 
I should decide to camp, instead of having to await 
the coming of the camels. 

78 



BRUSH AND FOREST 

This method of travelHng, so long as it is in a 
bush or forest country, does not prevent one from 
carrying out a prismatic compass traverse. At fre- 
quent intervals I took both forward and back bearings 
of the direction of the trail, and read my aneroid, or 
noted the temperature at which water boiled, in order 
to ofet the variations in altitude. This method of 
surveying sounds extremely rough, but it is the 
usual, and, in fact, the only practicable one in dense 
jungle, and when checked by proper astronomical 
observations yields surprisingly accurate results. 

At first the country consisted of the usual bush, 
but gradually this gave place to forest equally dense 
but more interesting. Huge yak trees with weirdly 
gnarled trunks, and tall, slender mimosas took the 
place of the withered scrub of which I had grown 
so tired ; and the undergrowth of thorn and aloes 
changed into green shrubs with beautifully coloured 
flowers, some red, others mauve, but the majority 
white. Fluttering from bush to bush were a multi- 
tude of white moths, and so numerous were they, 
that they became almost as annoying as the flies. 
Except on this one occasion I saw not a single 
other specimen of this particular moth in Jubaland. 
The road wound in and out among the trees in a 
most bewildering fashion, until, some four hours 
later, we emerged into a little glade where two 
gigantic yak trees stood sentry over a little pool 
of rain-water. Here I decided to camp, and, after 
a welcome cup of cocoa, lay down and dozed until 
the camels arrived about noon. As I moved to 
allow them to pitch my tent in the shade beneath 
the tree, a francolin rose at my very feet with a 
tremendous whirr, leaving her nest with six eggs 

79 



A PLAGUE OF FLIES 

in it. It is extraordinary to think that in spite of 
the noisy porters and the confusion on the arrival of 
the caravan, she had remained hidden within fifteen 
yards, and had only flown away when I nearly 
stepped on her. In the afternoon I strolled round 
in the bush, and was lucky to shoot two guinea- 
fowl quite close to camp. There was but little game, 
although here and there I came across the monstrous 
spoor of elephant, which showed them to have 
trekked westward a month or so ago. 

Practically this whole district, from Seyera Swamp 
southwards, is avoided by the Somali, although it 
possesses some very rich pasture land, because of 
a certain kind of fly ( Tabanus africa7t2is) which infests 
its forests. They are said to cause fever among 
cattle and camels, and certainly my own camels 
suffered severely here, and large fires of green wood 
had to be lighted, in the smoke of which they used 
to stand, refusing to feed, and obviously terribly 
tormented by these flies. I believe, however, that 
it is the irritation caused by the bites of these insects, 
rather than any poison they carry, which causes the 
fever. 



80 



CHAPTER VII 

A NEW RIVER 

We reached the river after a long and tiring march, 
accompHshed without incident. I left Agodi in the 
early morning on my stretcher, and we marched 
throuo-h thin scrub and larQ;'e acacia trees until noon. 
After leaving Agodi the ground sloped slightly up- 
wards towards the south for about three miles, when 
the crest of the divide was reached. This is the main 
watershed which divides the valley of the Lak Dera 
from that of the Guranlagga, and it follows approxi- 
mately a line drawn between Liboyi, Agodi and the 
Dibayu Plain. When this is crossed the ground 
slopes gradually downwards towards the south-west. 
A thick line of big trees stretching across the plain 
and showing above the thin thorn scrub was the first 
indication that we were approaching the stream at 
last. We crossed the river-bed at four o'clock, where 
it was dry, but there were large pools above and below 
as there were in the bed of the small tributary that 
ran down from the hills parallel to the trail by which 
we had come. In both rivers trees, shrubs and creepers 
grew in the most astonishing tangle ; no words of 
mine could convey an adequate impression of the 
scene, but some idea can be gained of the tropical 
vegetation by referring to the accompanying photo- 
graph of the river. While camp was being pitched 
I strolled down along the bank of the river and shot 



''THE POOL OF BIRDS" 

a francolin and a duck, which I was very glad to have 
secured for my dinner. The name of this place is 
Shimbirleh ("the pool of birds"), and here it may be 
explained that Guranlagga or the Lak Guran means, 
freely translated, a "jungle stream." Either name 
is correct, for Lak is a Galla word for a river that 
runs only after the rains, and is universally used in 
Jubaland by the natives to distinguish such streams 
from the permanent rivers, for which the Somali word 
is Webbe. When the word Lak is put after the 
name of a river, its form is changed into -lagga, 
although the meaning is preserved. Guran is a 
native word for a thornless acacia ; hence the literal 
meanino^ of GuranlaCTaa is "the stream where the 
Guran bushes grow." 

Its creneral direction at Shimbirleh is from west 

o 

to east, and a month later I discovered that its source 
was due west of that place. On previous maps it 
was shown to run from north to south, and its name 
was given as " Lak Guranlugga," which shows how 
easily confusion is brought into geographical nomen- 
clature by people who do not carefully question the 
natives as regards the meaning of local names. 

As a long and waterless march of 58 miles 
lay between this place and the districts of Joreh, I 
decided to spend a few days here and give the camels 
a rest before undertaking it. I spent much of my 
time in exploring the river, as far as it was possible 
to do so, both east and west. At intervals I did 
a little hunting ; the game was scarce and I was only 
able to add birds to my collection. However, one day 
while I was out in the jungle that fills the river-bed, 
I heard a tremendous rustling of branches, as though 
some large beast was making its way through the 

82 




The Lak Guran at Shimbirleh (the pool of birds) 

This stream had never been previously explored. It plays an important part in the drainage 
system of southern Jubaland. The photograph gives some idea of the dense character of the 
vegetation, which renders travelling so arduous in the interior of Jubaland. 



A TROOP OF MONKEYS 

forest, and I had visions of a magnificent bull 
elephant or buffalo. Unfortunately it was only a 
troop of monkeys jumping from branch to branch 
amongst the tree-tops, so I exchanged my express 
rifle for a shot-gun, and as they approached I shot 
one as he was crossing above the stream. He fell 
with a splash into the water, and at the sound of the 
shot the rest dashed off in alarm, their frightened 
chattering soon dying away in the distance. I sent 
one of the porters to retrieve the one I had killed, 
and it proved to be an adult male of a small species 
of monkey which is only found in the bush near the 
coast. Much to my surprise it was clasping in its 
arms a tiny baby monkey not more than one or two 
days old. The expression of anguish on its face, in 
fact, its whole appearance was so distressingly human 
that I hurriedly sent it back to the camp in charge 
of the skinner, in order to be rid of it. It appears, 
from what the natives told me, that it is not unusual 
for the male parent to look after the newborn 
monkey, while the mother goes out in search of food, 
during the first few weeks after birth. 

On the same day I managed to replenish my 
stock of food by killing two guinea-fowl and another 
duck. This was really welcome, for, owing to the 
heat and humidity, I had been compelled to throw 
away the rest of my potatoes, which had gone bad, 
and a sack of mealies that had become mouldy. 

Owing to the uncertain and cloudy weather I 
was often compelled, at this time, to take observations 
for latitude and time to the sun. This was a very 
trying performance, especially as at midday the sun 
was almost vertically overhead, since Shimbirleh is 
situated only a few miles south of the Equator, and 

83 



LOST IN THE JUNGLE 

often the telescope of the theodolite was so hot that it 
became painful to the touch. 

On one occasion I came across the fresh spoor of 
what must have been a gigantic bull buffalo, but so 
thick was the bush that it was impossible to follow 
it far, as I could only proceed on hands and knees. 
I was therefore reluctantly compelled to retrace my 
steps, but before I had reached more open country 
darkness had fallen, and I realised, to my dismay, 
that we were lost. I was only accompanied by my 
gun-bearer, who, having been born in the highlands, 
was useless at finding his way through the jungle. 
Fortunately, however, I found an old game trail 
which led us down to one of the main pools in the 
river-bed, not far from where I was camped. Here, 
owing to the bright moonlight, I recognised my 
whereabouts, and reached camp safely just before ten 
o'clock. 

On leaving Shimbirleh we started out in a south- 
westerly direction, and on our way crossed the river 
twice again where it makes a big bend to the south. 
We then turned south ourselves up a slight slope that 
rose about 150 feet in the next 10 miles, when we 
reached a plateau densely covered with trees, a very 
good example of a tropical forest. Here I saw again 
the same flowers and the same trees that I had seen 
at Agodi. I unloaded and let the camels feed, but 
later in the afternoon pushed on again in the same 
general direction, at first through forest and then 
through the usual grey thorn-scrub that rose above 
our heads, completely obscuring our view of anything, 
even within a few feet of us, but giving no protection 
from the burning sun. We marched on steadily till 
shortly after five o'clock, when we entered a little 

84 



GIANT SPIDERS' WEBS 

clearing where I decided to camp. The camels 
arrived very shortly after, as they had not rested long 
at midday ; my tent was soon up, and I was obliged 
to be content with a frugal meal of rice and tea, for I 
had been unable to shoot any game during the day. 
The men were very tired and, instead of the usual 
singing and talking, they were silent after their 
dinner and were soon asleep. At eight I went my 
rounds ; all was quiet, the camels chewing the cud in 
a great semicircle behind my tent, the dim figures of 
the sleeping men lying around the fires and the two 
sentries pacing up and down, the light from the new 
moon shining on their fixed bayonets ; all around was 
the dense bush, broken only by the yak trees whose 
giant forms rose here and there above it, their whitish 
trunks gleaming like silver in the moonlight. All 
day long I had seen no living thing except a few 
lizards, snakes and ants ; that night, at any rate, we 
were the only human beings in that huge wilderness. 

The next morning's march was through a country 
very similar to that which we had passed the day 
before, except for the thorn scrub, which was more 
than usually dense, so that I foresaw trouble for the 
camels. Moreover there were thousands of ©"iant 

o 

spiders' webs, almost invisible in the early morning 
light, which kept brushing across my face in a most 
irritating manner as I rode along, so I decided to 
walk, especially as I was somewhat saddle - sore 
after the long march of the previous day, and had not 
yet recovered from my illness. We marched on at 
a very good pace, the sun rose a dull smoke-coloured 
disc seen through the thick mist, and the heat grew ; 
but at 7.30 a great surprise was in store for me, for 
as we emerged from the forest for a moment, I saw a 

85 



A DEPRESSING SCENE 

large swamp right in front of me. It was a real 
discovery, as it was marked on no map, so I was 
immensely pleased, and took great pains to fix its 
position, and that of two smaller ones a little farther 
on. The first was a huge circular depression, now 
dry, three miles in circumference, filled with tall 
elephant grass and surrounded by numerous yak 
trees. It is known to the natives as Gombe Barsa, 
and is an important water-hole for the Somali who 
are trekking from the Deshek Wama to the district 
of Joreh. I attempted to take some photographs, but 
they were unsatisfactory owing to the thickness and 
heio"ht of the undergrowth. 

After leaving this spot we passed through another 
broad belt of forest, which gradually grew thinner 
until we emerged at last into a large open plain 
covered with very rank grass and dotted with small 
clumps of stunted grey thorn bushes. The scene was 
desolate in the extreme ; there was something physic- 
ally depressing about it, and, though I cannot explain 
the feeling, even the bush with its big trees and 
tropical vegetation seemed preferable to the hopeless 
aridity of this plain. My guide informed me that 
this was the beginning of Joreh, that land of promise 
teeming with game — a true hunter's paradise as it had 
been pictured to me. I did not halt here, but 
marched on, and soon, much to my disgust, the guide 
confessed he did not quite know where he was, for 
he had never been there before, and it was only 
his cousin who had told him the way. My inability 
to speak Somali prevented my telling him what I 
thought of him, so, leading the way, I struck south- 
wards across the plain, following an old game trail. 
We had still three tins of water, sufficient at a pinch 

86 



A DISAPPOINTMENT 

for two days, so I decided to march on as fast as 
possible till we came to a native track, and then to 
follow it. As a matter of fact I found one within 
three miles, and shortly afterwards reached a deserted 
Somali boma with a little rainpool in the bush near 
by. I camped there, but the camels did not arrive 
till late in the afternoon, for they had had great 
trouble with the loads in the thick bush, as I had fore- 
seen. One of the collectino- boxes had been broken 
by a branch, and most of the contents ruined. The 
heat had been excessive all day and tried both camels 
and men severely, but, in spite of an attack of fever, I 
was compelled to go out in the afternoon in search of 
game, as I had no fresh food. 

After a little while I saw a few topi grazing in the 
open, and I managed to get within lOO yards of 
them, but being far from fit, and my hand being 
rather shaky, I made a disgraceful shot ; I saw the 
dust fly to the right of the animal I was aiming at ; 
off they went at a lumbering gallop, and we saw them 
no more. Although I was very disappointed, I could 
not help laughing at the guide, for he, in the anguish 
caused by seeing himself deprived of the meat for 
which he had been longing, let out a string of Somali 
oaths, and then distinctly said "damn ! " As he did 
not even know "yes" and " no" in English, and had 
probably only heard the word for the first time that 
morning when I was talking to him about losing the 
way, it struck me as particularly humorous. The 
wearisome return to camp, however, was not so funny, 
although I managed to obtain a couple of doves, 
which made an excellent meal. 

Two days later I reached a Somali boma called 
Goloshe Ware, and found a small settlement of Herti 

S7 



HERTI SOMALI 

Somali who had been detained there by ilhiess (which 
proved on investigation to be malaria), but who 
intended to move on southwards as soon as possible, 
since water was giving out. The headman proved 
very friendly but unintelligent and not very accom- 
modating. He agreed to sell me a little ghee in 
exchange for some cloth, but could not be induced 
to part with a calf at any price. 

We were much bothered by flies here ; the heat 
was indescribable and the humidity of the atmosphere 
excessive, so that it was with pleasure that I broke 
camp the following day, still going southwards. The 
two guides went first (for I had to engage another 
from this village), then I followed on my mule, with 
my syce, two gun-bearers, two orderlies, two camera 
and instrument bearers, interpreter and skinner ; after 
us came the long line of camels, their loads swaying as 
they walked, their wooden bells sounding cheerfully 
and blending with the songs of the syces who walked 
alongside, the rear being brought up by two more 
askaris, the headman and the head syce. The whole 
village — men, women and children — turned out to 
watch us pass, and they seemed greatly amused at 
the sight. My clothes, and especially my double terai 
hat, with its crimson puggaree, caused them more 
merriment than anything else. 

The Somali at this boma were a poor lot of men 
physically, although rich in cattle. They lived chiefly 
on milk, and were pot-bellied and weak. They spent 
most of their day asleep on their prayer-mats under a 
tree, sipping coffee, if they were lucky enough to have 
any, and chatting with their cronies in the intervals of 
wakefulness. The climate may partly account for this 
absence of energy, as it is terribly relaxing and 

88 



GIRAFFES 

unhealthy ; they seemed to feel Its effects very much, 
and were constantly suffering from fever and dysentery, 
while hardly one of them was free from ghastly sores 
on some part of his person. 

After we had camped that afternoon in a little 
clearing, I went out in search of game, and within 
half an hour of leaving camp I saw a bull giraffe and 
three young cows. Giraffes are protected in East 
Africa, and I was therefore unable to shoot one, but 
after a good stalk, I managed to get quite close and 
sat down to observe them. It was a beautiful sight 
watching them feed, quite unconscious of danger, 
nibbling daintily at the green leaves, and I was struck 
by the fact that they were scarcely noticeable amid 
the bush, in spite of their vivid marking and enormous 
size. I soon lost sight of them and came across 
nothing further for more than an hour, when I found 
some very fresh spoor which I carelessly took to be 
that of a topi. Leaving my gun-bearer behind I 
went forward alone, and soon after, on looking cau- 
tiously over an ant-hill, I saw, not loo yards away, 
five oryx feeding quietly among the bush ; there 
was no big bull, so I picked out a good cow, and 
sitting down took careful aim and fired. She pitched 
forward as the bullet hit her, and I knew that I had 
at last got meat. The others had not gone very far, 
so I fired again, and by a lucky fluke broke both hind 
legs of a young bull at about 200 yards. Both proved 
to be in splendid condition, with plenty of fat under 
the skin, which is somewhat unusual in African game. 
As I had had no proper food for three days, I there 
and then sat down and roasted a nice piece over the 
embers, and ate it, although I had no salt with me. 

Meanwhile, I sent the guide back to camp, and by 

89 



TOPI 

the time I had finished my impromptu dinner he 
turned up again with two camels, and every scrap of 
meat was taken back. Everyone was in the best 
of spirits, and when I refused to give out any rations, 
the men took it very well, only asking for plenty of 
meat, which I gave them. 

The following day I continued southwards and in 
the early morning I was again successful in obtaining 
more meat. We entered a small open plain, about 
two miles across, with a large swamp on the west, now 
dry. I left the camels here to go on, while I turned off 
to investigate, but I had not proceeded very far before 
my syce gave a low whistle. I looked up, and there, 
about lOO yards away, stood a solitary topi, looking 
very handsome in the early morning light. I sat 
down, and taking rather a quick sight, fired, and to 
my delight the bullet clapped loudly, telling me of 
a well-placed shot. The topi made a tremendous 
spurt, but soon stopped, and I saw that it was in 
great trouble, so I sat down and smoked a cigarette 
before going cautiously forward. I soon saw her 
lying down, and as she got up I gave her another 
bullet at close quarters which finished her olT. She 
proved to be a splendid cow, with very long horns, 
although in basal girth they were much smaller than 
those of topi in the more westerly parts of East 
Africa. 

Later in the day I saw another small herd of 
topi, of which I managed to bag three more. All 
the meat was taken, and what was not eaten immedi- 
ately was cut into strips and dried. The game was 
very tame. They were not much alarmed at the 
sound of a shot, but seemed bewildered, running round 
and round unable to detect the direction from which 

90 



MONOTONOUS COUNTRY 

danger came. But if once they have caught sight 
of the hunter they will make off directly, and it is 
then useless to follow them. The secret of success 
consists in keeping as much as possible in the 
shadows and in remaining as motionless as possible 
after the first shot, until their alarm has somewhat 
subsided. 

The days passed pleasantly enough in working 
and hunting, but I kept gradually moving southwards 
until I reached the little village of Guratti. The 
country in its vicinity is much pleasanter than any 
I had yet met with in Jubaland. There were large 
shady trees overshadowing picturesque glades car- 
peted with grass, and a few euphorbias lent interest 
to a scene that was otherwise tame. It is difficult 
to give an adequate description of the country 
through which I had passed. There were no 
mountains, rivers or lakes to form a dominant 
feature in the landscape ; constant monotony was the 
keynote of the country ; mile upon mile of grey 
thorn bushes, whose delicate leaves and thin thorny 
branches shut out the view, only gave place here 
and there to flat meadow-lands clothed with coarse 
grass and dotted with mimosas. Now and again 
there were some large trees, chiefiy yaks ; or perhaps 
great patches of reeds, 12 or 14 feet high, that 
met above your head, and rustled back to their 
places as you passed ; but otherwise there was no 
striking landmark, only the extraordinary flatness of 
the whole country. And in colouring it was the same, 
endless greens, more vivid where there was water, 
and greys, with here and there the brown of a dead 
tree, or of some curiously shaped ant-hill. 

As soon as we reached the boma, the headman, 

91 



A HOSPITABLE RECEPTION 

who was most decidedly Chinese in appearance, with 
almond-shaped eyes, and long thin moustache, came 
out and begged me to camp, saying that as I was 
the first white " officer " to come to their village they 
wanted to do me honour. I could hardly refuse, for 
the country here is only nominally administered, and 
I was dependent on the goodwill of the natives to 
allow me to go through their country ; and a delight- 
ful camp it proved. At a discreet distance all the 
male population watched the pitching of my tent 
with the greatest interest, and bright-eyed, brown- 
limbed little children, with long curly brown hair, 
gazed with solemn wonder at me from the safety of 
the surrounding bushes. When the tent was up, 
I saw a procession being formed, and the elders of 
the village came up to welcome me, bringing with 
them an ox, a quantity of ghee and eight pots of milk, 
"all they had," as the headman said, "to show me 
honour and make my heart glad." He further 
begged permission to hold a dance in the afternoon ; 
naturally, I gave it, and after thanking them for their 
welcome, and for their friendly attitude towards a 
stranger, I proceeded to question them as to their 
country and the whereabouts of game. In the 
meantime I ordered my headman to prepare coffee 
for them, and they remained the rest of the day 
within my boma, talking to my men for hours, while 
they sipped the sickly buni, of which they seemed so 
fond. 

The dance, which was to be somewhat similar, 
I was told, to one I had witnessed in Kismayu, took 
place in the afternoon. Boxes meanwhile had been 
placed in a semicircle in front of my tent, for the 
elders to sit upon. My men put on their best clothes 

92 




o 



^ o bo 

<1 b''^ 



•r.-^ S. 



A DANCE 

and their cartridge belts, and took their rifles, while my 
escort, together with the headman, interpreter and 
gun-bearers, came up armed to the teeth and stood 
behind and on each side of me. There is always a 
certain element of danger in these dances, for the 
young men, or warriors, work themselves up to a 
high pitch of excitement, and sometimes the elders 
lose control over them. 

Soon the whole village assembled, and the dance 
began. It was characterised by much noise and 
extreme energy, but, like all African dances, it soon 
became very monotonous. In the same way as at 
Kismayu, each warrior came springing towards me, 
brandishing his spear a few inches off my face, crying 
out, "Modt" (Hail!). Everybody watched me to 
see if I would flinch, but I had been warned before- 
hand by my headman of what was going to happen, so 
that I was able to maintain my self-control, although 
I must confess it was somewhat disconcerting at first. 
This went on for about two hours, when I called a 
halt, as I was growing very tired of the performance. 
I then made another short speech of thanks, gave 
the dancers some more coffee, and the elders some 
presents, with which they were very pleased, and then 
dismissed them. Thus ended a very pleasant and 
interesting day. 

As I had now reached the northerly limits of the 
country inhabited by Hunter's hartebeeste, I propose 
to give in the following chapter an account of the 
characteristics and habits of these rare and interestingf 
animals before proceeding to describe the days I spent 
in hunting them. 



93 



CHAPTER VIII 

THE AREOLA, OR HUNTER'S HARTEBEESTE 

One of the objects I had in view in undertaking this 
journey was to obtain specimens of Hunter's harte- 
beeste, or arrola, as it is known to the natives. These 
antelopes were first discovered by Mr. H. C. V. Hunter, 
in 1887, when travelling near the mouth of the Tana 
River. He found them in herds of from ten to 
twenty, frequenting open plains and thin thorn bush, 
but he never saw them in thick scrub or forest. 

At present there is a fine pair, male and female, 
in the Nairobi Club, and also about a dozen speci- 
mens in England, but exceedingly little is known 
of their habits or of the country where they are to be 
found. 

They belong to the sub-family Bubalidin/e, which 
is constituted by the true hartebeeste, the bastard- 
hartebeeste and the gnu, and each of these genera 
is represented in East Africa. According to Mr. R. 
Lydekker, to whom I am indebted for much of the 
information on this subject, the members of this group 
are ungainly looking ruminants of comparatively large 
size, and with naked muzzles, although the lower part 
of the nostrils is covered with short bristly hairs. 
The tail is generally long, covered with hair, and 
ending in a tuft, and lateral hoofs of large size are 
generally present. The females, as well as the males, 
carry horns, as is the case with the "bovidse," but 

94 



TRUE HARTEBEESTES 

the teeth, which in the upper jaw have tall and narrow 
crowns, resemble those of the sheep or goat. 

The true hartebeeste is characterised by the 
enormous development of the upper prolongation of 
the forehead, known as the " pedicle," on which the 
horns are mounted ; the latter are doubly curved and 
heavily ringed, while the remarkable height of the 
withers and falling away of the hindquarters is another 
noticeable peculiarity. There are nine well-known 
varieties of true hartebeeste, namely : — 

1. The Bubal Hartebeeste {B. boselaphiis), North Africa. 

2. The Western Hartebeeste {B. major), Senegambia and 

West Coast. 

3. Tora Hartebeeste {B. tora), Abyssinia and Blue Nile 

basin. 

4. Swayne's Hartebeeste {B. Swaynei), Somaliland. 

5. Coke's Hartebeeste {B. cokei), British and German East 

Africa. 

6. Cape Hartebeeste {B. cama), South Africa. 

7. Lelwel Hartebeeste {B. lelwel), East Central Africa. 

8. Neumann's Hartebeeste {B. neurnanni), Lake Rudolf. 

9. The Konzi Hartebeeste {B. lichiensteini), East Africa, 

north of Sabi River, Nyasaland and Mozambique. 

There are several varieties of the above species, 
but it is unnecessary to name them here, as their final 
classification is by no means complete. 

We now come to a group of antelopes closely akin 
to the more typical hartebeestes, from which they are 
distinguished by the more moderate length of face, 
by the absence of the horn pedicle, and by the simple 
lyrate form of the horns, while the withers are much 
less elevated above the hindquarters. There are five 
well-known species in this group. 

1. Topi, korrigum and tiang {Damaliscus corrigumjimeld). 

2. Bontebok (Z?. /jFrar^z/:^). 

95 



THE ARROLA 

3. Blesbok (Z>. albifrotis). 

4. Tsessebe {D. lunatus). 

5. Arrola (Z>. hitnteri). 

I shall refrain from discussing the third group, 
Connochoetes, since no representatives of it are 
present in Jubaland. 

Of the animals mentioned above, Coke's, 
Neumann's and the Lelwel hartebeeste are found in 
the highlands of East Africa : the topi is common 
along the German border and near Muhoroni, but the 
race to which I have referred {^D. c.jimela) is typically 
from the Juba River Valley. It is also found in 
considerable numbers near Lake Rudolf. In Juba- 
land the topi takes the place of the true hartebeeste, 
which is absent. It will be seen, therefore, that it is 
widely distributed in the Protectorate. On the other 
hand, the arrola, which is the only other species of 
the family Bubalidinse in Jubaland, is extremely local 
in its range, and is found only in the Tana Valley and 
on the borders of Tanaland and Jubaland and nowhere 
else in Africa. 

Standing about 48 inches at the shoulder, the 
arrola is of a light and attractive build, while the horns 
are of a simple and graceful form, slanting first out- 
wards and upwards, then bending backwards, after 
which the long slender points are directed upwards 
and outwards. They are heavily ringed for the first 
12 inches, after which they are quite smooth. In the 
bulls that are not quite fully adult, the tips of the 
horns are directed noticeably inwards and not out- 
wards, though in the case of immature females this 
does not appear to be the case. The face is of medium 
length, without any horn pedicle. The cheek teeth 
are large, and are peculiar in that there are only two, 

96 



COLOUR AND PECULIARITIES 

instead of the usual three, pre-molar teeth in the lower 
jaw. The face glands situated just below the eyes 
were remarkably developed in all the specimens I 
shot, and the pits in the skull corresponding to them, 
though shallow, are large (43 mm. in diam.). The 
glands are surrounded by white hairs, and the central 
cavities (which are on an average 7*5 mm. in diameter) 
exude a thick, dark-coloured excretion. 

This species is of a uniform pale cafe-au-lait colour, 
the cows being somewhat lighter than the bulls. The 
latter often become slaty grey towards the end of their 
lives, in this respect being similar to the eland {Tauro- 
tragus oryx). On the face they have a white chevron, 
joining the two white patches round the eyes. The 
inner surfaces of the ears, the belly (in Jubaland 
specimens at any rate) and the tail are also white. 
The latter is about 18 inches in length, the lower part 
being sparsely covered with coarse white hairs. 

There is one peculiarity in the arrola that I have 
not seen mentioned anywhere, nor have I noticed it in 
any other antelope ; they have a large roll of loose 
skin underlaid with fat, situated just behind the horns 
across the skull between the ears and horns. This is 
a very marked feature, and it is more developed in 
the male than in the female ; moreover, it is especially 
noticeable when the animals are in good condition. 
What purpose this may serve, I am quite at a loss to 
say. 

I questioned the natives very carefully as regards 
their range, and I have come to the conclusion that 
they are not found west of longitude 40° E., or north 
of latitude 0° 35' S. They do not inhabit the country 
south of the Tana River nor the district immediately 
adjacent to the coast. I was much puzzled and 
G 97 



ITS DISTRIBUTION 

surprised at first when told by the Somali that I should 
find them to the west of the Lorian Swamp, but I 
discovered later that they apply the word *'arrola" 
to the impalla {yEpyceros melampus) as well, and this 
animal is, of course, found all along the Uaso Nyiro. 

If the reader will glance at the map, and note the 
range I have given to Hunter's hartebeeste, he will 
see what a very local animal it is ; and if it is 
remembered that the whole of that country is practi- 
cally unadministered, and inhabited by the most 
warlike and truculent of the Ogaden Somali, it will 
not seem so strange that only a very few specimens 
have ever found their way to this country. 

It is of course an infallible sign of ignorance to 
attempt to dogmatise on the habits of animals, with 
which one has had but a month's acquaintance. I saw 
ninety-seven arrola in all, and made careful notes at the 
time of what I observed, both of their movements 
and of the country they inhabit ; and I shall there- 
fore confine myself in the following description of 
their surroundings and their habits, to the facts I 
noted down on the spot in my field-book, and to a 
few deductions that may legitimately be drawn from 
them. 

I saw no arrola outside the district of Joreh, 
though the natives told me that occasionally there 
were some near Goniah-iddu, but when I passed 
through that district later I did not see any spoor. 
They inhabit a country of small open plains, covered 
with thin scattered bush alternating with belts of 
dense acacia scrub. In the early morning and towards 
sunset they may be seen in herds of from twenty to 
thirty animals, feeding on the coarse grass that is 
generally found on the plains ; but during the heat of 

98 




Ti,E Arrola. S (Damaliscus hunteri) 

This rare and interesting antelope was shot by the author in Joreh, and its horns are the longest yet 
recorded. Length on front curve, 275". Basal girih, 8J". Tip to tip, loV'. 



HORNS 

the day, especially if they have been disturbed by the 
passing of natives with their cattle, they retire to the 
depths of the bush, where it is almost impossible to 
see them, so close do they lie. I have often crept 
along, following their trail as quietly and silently as 
possible, only to find the place empty where they had 
been resting, and whence they had fled in alarm at 
my approach. Big as they are, they yet make their 
escape without noise, seeming almost to melt away in 
the bush. On one occasion only have I been able to 
creep close up to them in the middle of the day. It 
took me over three hours of most careful stalking, at 
times bent almost double as I made my way through 
the thickets, at others crawling on hands and knees, 
only to find that there was no head worth shooting, 
when I finally caught sight of them. Few people, 
who have not themselves hunted in the shadeless 
scrub of an East African desert right on the Equator, 
can appreciate the difficulties and the fatigue that 
have to be endured for days, and often for weeks, 
before success brings its reward. 

On this occasion, however, I was more than repaid 
by the delight it gave me to watch these beautiful 
antelopes at close quarters ; they were quite unaware 
of my presence, without any suspicion of the close 
proximity of danger. Of the eleven arrola there, 
two were young bulls which had not yet attained 
their full growth, for the slender points of their horns 
were turned inwards. It is interesting to note that 
this sign of immaturity is also found in the impalla, 
and is due to the rotation of the horny sheath on the 
bony axis during growth ; but in the considerable 
number of female arrola that I saw, the inward in- 
clination of the tips in the young was never so 

99 



A SMALL HERD 

pronounced as in the case of young bulls. This may 
be explained perhaps (and I only offer this as a 
suggestion) by the fact that the horns in the females 
are shorter and lack the strong backward bend so 
noticeable in the bulls. 

Of the nine other hartebeestes that completed 
the group, seven were females and two calves, of 
about two months old. During the month of January 
I saw several other young calves, varying in age 
between a few days and two months, which would 
seem to indicate that the cows drop their young 
generally about the beginning of December, which is 
somewhat earlier than is the case with the Lelwel 
hartebeeste. But I did not see a sufficient number 
of them to be certain of this, and I could not get any 
reliable evidence from the two guides I had with 
me, who were the only men in the caravan who had 
ever seen them before. However, one of the syces 
who came from the interior of Italian Somaliland 
near the Webbe Shebeyli, on seeing the first arrola 
that I killed, maintained with the utmost conviction 
that he had seen similar animals in his own country, 
but I think it almost certain he was mistaken, although 
there are large unexplored areas in those regions. 

The majority of the group I was watching were 
lying down, but there was a sentinel on guard as 
usual. Now and again one would get up, feed in 
a desultory manner for a few seconds, and then lie 
down again, while once, apparently for no reason, 
the two young bulls rose simultaneously and started 
fighting though without much vindictiveness, and as 
abruptly left off to resume their "siesta." 

During the whole time I was watching them they 
made no noise of any kind, but when alarmed or 

100 



SHY ANIMALS 

suspicious they emit a sound that is half sneeze, half 
snort, and is very characteristic of all the hartebeestes. 
It is a sound that once heard is not easily forgotten, 
and when it comes, for instance, from a kongoni, 
which is a solemn melancholy-looking animal, it is 
decidedly comic. 

During the day, if they have not been lately 
disturbed by natives, they will sometimes rest near 
their feeding-ground, if any shade can be found there. 
I have seen several old bulls under a tree in the open 
at midday, but rarely any females, and I think that 
on the whole it is the latter who are the more sus- 
picious. But, with few exceptions, arrola are some 
of the shyest and most wary animals I have ever 
hunted. Mr. A. B. Percival, who has had upwards 
of twenty years' experience with big game in Africa, is 
of the same opinion, and found them incredibly hard 
to approach in the Tana Valley, where he was hunting 
them. They are not much alarmed at the sound of 
the rifle, but the mere sight of a man even at a great 
distance will send them flying into the bush in the 
wildest alarm, and they will not halt until they have 
put a great distance between themselves and their 
pursuer. This seemed very strange to me, as at any 
rate at Golosh^ Gorm6 it is improbable that they had 
ever seen a man dressed in clothes before. Another 
interesting fact concerning their habits is that once 
they are thoroughly alarmed they will not return to 
that spot for at least a week, or even more. They 
generally trek off to some other small plain, fifteen or 
twenty miles away, and seem to remain uneasy and 
very much on the qui vive for days afterwards, as 
I found to my own cost. 

Old bulls generally lead a solitary life, or may 

lOI 



DESERT DWELLERS 

associate with one or two others of the same age ; 
it is these animals that carry by far the finest horns, 
although in extreme old age the tips may be worn 
away. 

Arrola are essentially desert dwellers, and are 
as a rule found at a considerable distance from a 
permanent water-supply, though an exception must, 
of course, be made in the case of the herds that 
inhabit the Tana Valley ; in the rainy season there 
is a quantity of water in the shallow pans that are 
so plentiful in Jubaland, but these soon evaporate 
and are dry for at least six months in the year. 
What they do then for water I am at a loss to 
understand, but it seems probable that when the 
pools have given out entirely they may find sufficient 
moisture in the heavy dews that fall nightly, and 
in the coarse grass that forms their principal food. 
Lesser kudu, which are numerous in Joreh, are 
very partial to the succulent leaves of the aloes, but 
I failed to find any traces of this plant in the stomachs 
of the arrola I shot, and I am inclined to doubt 
whether they ever indulge in this diet. 

In some books the Galla name for Hunter's 
hartebeeste is given as " Blanketta," and sometimes 
as " Herola," while the Somali are said to call it 
" Aroli." Personally I have never heard them called 
anything but "Arrola"; and Somali, Galla and 
Waboni, when speaking of them, even to each other, 
have always referred to them thus, at any rate when 
I have been present. 



I02 



CHAPTER IX 

HUNTING IN JOREH 

The day after the dance had taken place, I left early 
with two new guides supplied to me by the headman 
of the village, who seemed confident that they could 
show me Hunter's hartebeeste. We marched at first 
through a kind of meadow-land with big trees here 
and there, and when the sun had risen, but while 
everything was still glittering with dew, we came 
upon another Maghabul village, the last we were 
to see for some time, as we were going into an 
uninhabited country. There were many marabou 
storks about, so tame that I had no difficulty in 
walking close up to one and shooting it. These 
hideous birds, who feed on all the offal from the 
village, are only valuable because of the beautiful 
feathers they carry under the tail. The latter are 
worth about ;^i2 an ounce, but, large though the 
birds are, they only possess very few of the precious 
feathers, and it would take six birds to yield one 
ounce. At the sound of the ofun three flocks of teal 
rose from a pool which I had not noticed, and flew 
over to another a short distance away. I managed to 
bring down two as they passed overhead, and then, 
as I needed food, I crept down to the edge of the 
swamp, and, taking a pot-shot, killed four more as 
they were swimming about. Two were skinned and 
added to my bird collection, while the others I 
decided to eat in due course. 

103 



THE FATE OF A GERENUK 

In the meantime the headman of the village, 
a venerable old Somali with white hair and beard, 
came out with lots of milk, insisted on all my men 
drinking their fill, and would take nothing in return. 
I must say that nothing could be more hospitable 
than the welcome I had so far received from the 
natives. We then proceeded for a couple of hours 
through the same pleasant kind of open bush until 
we reached a little pool, covered with mauve and 
white water-lilies {NymphcBa stellata). The water 
it contained, however, was very nasty, and full of 
slime, so I did not stop here, but marched on and 
soon entered a large open plain covered with yellow 
brown grass and some scattered bush. The heat 
was now growing intense, yet presently I saw a 
gerenuk buck feeding right out in the open, and 
as he carried nice horns I decided to shoot him. 
Taking advantage of every little piece of cover that 
offered, and keeping in the shadows wherever 
possible, I managed to get within lOO yards of 
him, while he was yet unaware of my presence ; 
then, taking careful aim, I fired and heard the bullet 
clap loudly. The gerenuk made a wild dash past 
me and into the bush beyond. Here I lost him, 
although I spent fully an hour searching, and at last 
I gave him up, although I knew he must be lying 
dead quite close. I was much disappointed, but as 
there was nothing else to be done, I marched on for 
a little way till I reached a dried-up swamp. 

Here the guides recommended me to camp, as 
they thought there would be game near by ; so I 
chose a big tree under which my tent was pitched, 
and gave orders to my headman to give out water 
to the men and then send back two camels with the 

104 




Oryx beisa. 9 



Standing from left to right : (i) my orderly in the uniform of the East African Police, (ii) my gun- 
bearer, a Swahih. Kneeling : the skinner, an A-kamba, and the interpreter, a Somali. 



A FAMILY PARTY 

four empty tanks to fill up at the last pool. At 
twelve o'clock I sat down to lunch, and was just think- 
ing over my hard luck in losing the gerenuk, when 
my eye was caught by the sight of several vultures 
hovering over the bush in the direction from which 
we had come. So I immediately sent one of my 
guides to see if he could find what had attracted 
them, and told some porters to go with him. Sure 
enough in less than an hour they were back with 
the little that remained of the buck, for the birds had 
completely ruined the skin. I was delighted, how- 
ever, as the horns were uninjured, and they proved 
to be a fine pair, heavy and symmetrical. 

Later in the afternoon I left camp in search of 
game ; for a long time I saw nothing, but at last 
discovered a family party of gerenuk, buck, doe and 
calf, resting in the shade of a bush. I was again 
favoured by the wind and plenty of cover, and 
approached to within 90 yards, when I stumbled 
over a branch. The gerenuk whipped round in 
alarm, so seizing the opportunity I took rapid aim, 
and made an excellent shot as he was almost facing 
me. The bullet entered the front of the shoulder and 
lodged just under the skin near the hip, mushroom- 
ing perfectly and making a terrible wound. The buck 
was in beautiful condition, and carried a handsome 
pair of horns, so I decided to take the whole skin. I 
was very much gratified with my success in getting 
two nice specimens from this district, and began to 
think that, after all, the guide was not far wrong in 
describing Joreh as a hunter's paradise. 

I decided I would go on a little farther, although 
it was growing late, in the hope of seeing arrola, 
which my guide insisted were to be found on these 

105 



HAKTEBEESTE AND ZEBRA 

plains ; but I saw nothing, and was just thinking of 
turning back when I saw some animals standing 
under a tree. We all immediately crouched down, 
and my gun-bearer with his usual idiotic self-assurance 
whispered "Water-buck!" But I knew better; they 
were the longed-for Hunter's hartebeeste, and with 
them a solitary zebra. Now, being somewhat ex- 
cited, I did not sufficiently consider the lie of the 
ground before beginning the stalk, and when, after 
great exertions, I managed to get within 1 50 yards, 
I found the sun, which was low on the western 
horizon, right in my eyes, and the glare upon the 
sights made accurate shooting extremely difficult. 
My first shot was low, breaking the back leg of 
a buck. They all dashed off, and though I fired 
three other shots I missed terribly badly. 

They seemed at first quite bewildered, moving 
round and round, unable to see me hidden under a 
bush, but while I was reloading they caught sight 
of my men in the distance and immediately made off, 
as I thought for good. I took up the spoor at a trot, 
for it was easily followed in the soft sand. Just as 
the sun, a glowing disc of deepest red, was sinking 
over the trees, I came upon them once more, and, 
resting my rifle against a branch, fired at the only 
one I saw clearly. The sound of the bullet told me 
that I had made a well-placed shot, and I dashed 
forward as I saw the poor brute make a desperate 
spurt and pitch head foremost to the ground. 

She proved to be a young cow, with small but 
wonderfully symmetrical horns. Her sleek, coffee- 
coloured coat was soft as silk, and she was in the 
height of condition. The lower part of the tail, the 
under parts and the inverted chevron between the 

106 



THE MAGHABUL SULTAN S UNCLE 

eyes were white, while the muzzle was a rich dark 
brown. We did not reach camp till long after dark. 
I was delighted with my success and gave out 
sufficient coffee for all my followers, which pleased 
them greatly. They spent the evening in singing and 
dancing, and kept this up throughout the night. 

After dinner a very old man, the uncle of the 
Maghabul Sultan, who had arrived in the afternoon, 
after a thirty-mile walk, came to my tent and told me 
that another chief, Abdi Aden by name, was coming 
the following day in order that I might be able to 
discuss with him the best routes from here to the 
Lorian, and then, if possible, he would provide me 
with guides to replace those I had taken from Guratti, 
who were anxious to return. 

The following morning, before dawn, I had 
reached the plains where I had seen the arrola. For 
a long while I saw nothing, until at last my gun-bearer 
pointed out something moving among the bushes. I 
crept forward and saw between the branches a dark 
piece of skin striped with white, but could not at 
first make out what the animal was. I moved on 
hands and knees to the left and shortly saw, not 80 
yards away, the head and horns of a lesser kudu 
{Strepsiceros imberbis), at which I promptly fired, and 
brought him crashing to the ground with a broken 
neck. On coming up to where he lay, I was struck 
with the great beauty of these antelopes. Indeed, I 
think they are the most handsome I have ever seen. 
Their glossy coat is of a grey fawn colour, and the 
face is black with white spots on the neck. The 
body is fully striped with white, and the throat is also 
white, while the tail is short and covered with long 
hairs like that of a bushbuck. 

107 



LESSER KUDU 

It is strange how perverse things are sometimes. 
All through the districts of Guranlagga and northern 
Joreh I was on the look-out for them every day, for 
that country is especially adapted to their habits ; for 
lesser kudu are generally found near water in thick 
bush, especially where there are aloes ; but there was 
never one to be seen, As soon, however, as I had 
reached a more open country typical of the true East 
African desert, with no water for several miles at 
least, I saw two and killed one. The other was a 
doe, and this one a young buck full-grown, but with 
horns which had not yet reached their maximum 
length. I sent to camp for a camel to bring him back, 
and after I had photographed the kudu I went on 
again, walking across open bush country, and keeping 
a sharp look-out all the time. Not long after I saw 
a fine bull arrola, but he unfortunately had got my 
wind and was looking fixedly in my direction. I 
stood motionless for about five minutes, but he was 
highly suspicious and, turning, trotted off into the 
bush. I only saw him once more, when I took a long 
shot, but missed completely, and he went off at a 
clumsy gallop, and though I walked through the bush 
for two solid hours on his trail I could not even get 
another glimpse of him. From the way he ran and 
from the uneven spoor he left, I believe, and my 
orderly thought so too, he was the buck whose leg I 
broke the day before. 

Finally I returned to camp very weary, and after 
lunch had an interminable discussion with Abdi Aden 
and two other chiefs that had come with him. I 
thought I should never be able to get rid of them, 
but he was exceedingly friendly and promised to 
accompany me to the Sultan's village. Thence he 

1 08 



A SATISFACTORY INTERYIEW 

said I should be able to reach the Lak Dera and 
follow that up to the Lorian. I had never imagined 
for a moment that I should be able to go that way, 
for not only is the country absolutely unknown, but 
its inhabitants are reputed to be the least friendly 
and most truculent of all the Ogaden Somali. 

I had anticipated a complete refusal on the part 
of the natives to allow me to do so, and had intended 
to go by way of the Tana Valley. But as the latter 
had been explored previously, it would not have been 
nearly so interesting, although game would have been 
much more plentiful. Abdi Aden told me that he 
believed the Lorian to be thirty marches by this new 
route through bush the whole way, but with water to 
be found, as rains were reported to have been plentiful. 
The question of water, game and roads was thrashed 
out over and over again in all its bearings, and he 
assured me of a warm welcome in his country, so the 
interview was on the whole very satisfactory ; but I 
decided that I would stay in this vicinity for another 
week in order to obtain more specimens of arrola and 
other animals that I might find. 

For the next few days I hunted with varying 
success. The country I traversed was in parts ex- 
ceedingly fertile, consisting of rich meadow-lands 
with long green grass and shady trees. These were 
separated from each other by dense belts of the more 
familiar acacia scrub, and it was thither that the 
animals retired to rest during the heat of the day, 
only coming out to feed in the little plains in the early 
morning and towards sundown. One afternoon a 
syce, who had been on guard while the camels 
grazed, reported having seen five arrola in the bush, 
so off I started in a broiling sun and began hunting 

109 



VARYING SUCCESS 

carefully. The time went on, but though I saw some 
gerenuk I did not fire, for fear of frightening more 
important game. At about five I was making my 
way, very carefully as usual, through extremely dense 
thorn-scrub towards a small swamp which my guide 
had found, when suddenly I heard a snort right in 
front of me, and the crashing of heavy bodies through 
the bush. I caught a glimpse of six arrola galloping 
away, and although I was afraid it would be useless 
I made a wide detour as fast as I could go, and by 
and by made them out in the distance ; but they were 
very nervous and uneasy, and before I could get a shot 
they were off again, led by a cow and a little calf. 
They did not rest again, and though I followed on the 
spoor for half an hour I was unable to catch them up. 

I then climbed a tree to see if I could detect my 
gun-bearer, guide or orderly, whom I had left behind 
when I began the stalk, but they were nowhere to be 
seen ; but under a large yak tree to the south I saw 
a topi feeding. So I came down and started towards 
him, but I had not seen some others, and a frightened 
snort on my right made me crouch down behind a 
bush. Just then another topi showed behind a tree 
about 150 yards away, so I took a quick shot and 
heard the bullet hit. I ran forward and saw the 
whole herd disappear in the bush, the one I had 
wounded being last and apparently in difficulties. 
I followed him for some time, but could not find him, 
and, as the sun was now very low, struck out in 
a north-westerly direction where I thought camp 
was. 

Greatly to my relief some ten minutes later I 
heard my orderly whistling for me, and calling back 
in answer I soon found him, and some thirty minutes 

no 



DIFFICULT HUNTING 

after reached camp, which was in the opposite direc- 
tion to that in which I had been walking. This shows 
how extraordinarily easy it is to lose one's way in the 
bush, where there are no landmarks of any kind to 
guide one. The Somali get lost quite often, but they 
generally cut marks on all the big trees which direct 
the real bushman, but convey nothing to the others. 

I had many such unsuccessful days, for hunting 
in Jubaland is particularly difficult, and weeks may be 
consumed before success at last crowns your efforts. 
On another occasion I left camp long before dawn, 
and reached a large plain half an hour later. Here I 
waited till the first streaks of light were apparent in 
the east, when, leaving everyone but the guide under 
a tree, I started out on foot. I had not gone half a 
mile, when in the dim light I made out a small herd 
of topi, who saw me at the same instant, and faced 
round sneezing and stamping. I immediately sank 
down into the grass out of sight, as it was too dark to 
shoot ; and then began rather a curious wait. I lay 
on my back on the burned grass and watched the 
light increasing and the soft fleecy clouds growing 
rosy as dawn broke, and all around me I could 
hear the sneeze, sneeze of the topi, with now and 
then a grunt and a snort ; but they did not run away 
immediately, for their curiosity was greater than their 
fear. 

It was extraordinarily peaceful and I thoroughly 
enjoyed the half-hour that passed before these sounds 
died away, and I knew I could get up and follow the 
herd. But to cut a long story short, I never got a 
shot; they were thoroughly frightened, and finally I 
lost them completely. So I gave up the chase and 
rejoined my men where I had left them. 

Ill 



A FINE HERD 

We then proceeded eastward for about five miles, 
when I suddenly spotted in the shadows a couple of 
topi resting under a tree ; motioning the others to lie 
down I went on alone, determined to get one this 
time. As long as game can be seen in this kind of 
country, before they are aware of the proximity of 
danger, it is generally possible to get within very 
short range, but it means constant watchfulness and 
very careful walking. I made a good stalk, and 
finally crawling round a bush saw, not 35 yards 
away (for I paced it afterwards), a herd of twenty- 
three topi, 1 some feeding, others resting. It was a 
beautiful sight ; their coats glistened in the early 
morning sunlight, the purple patches showing clearly 
on face and shoulder against the buff of the body 
colour ; they were motionless save for the twitch- 
ing of their tails to and fro as the flies bothered 
them, and were quite unconscious of my presence. 
I watched them for a minute or so, and then, choosing 
the one with the biggest horns, shot it through the 
neck, killing it stone dead. It proved to be a large 
cow, with fine heavy horns, nineteen and a quarter 
inches in length. 

After I had photographed it and had sent back 
a man to fetch a camel, in order to carry the meat 
back to camp, I went on again in search of arrola. 
Just before noon I reached a thick belt of forest, with 
a most lovely pool of water among the trees. It was 
the first clear water I had seen since leaving Kismayu, 
and though it was stained a deep brown, from the 
roots of the surrounding trees, it was cool and sweet 
to the taste. My guide told me that this was a well- 
known game resort, and was called by the natives 
J ana Nyeri ; so I decided to camp here, and sent 

112 



GIRAFFES 

back a man with a message to my headman, telHng 
him to strike camp and make his way here without 
loss of time. I had now been on the move since 
five o'clock, and since it was too far and too hot to 
go back with a messenger to camp, I decided to do 
without lunch, as I had nothing with me, and rest 
here. So, stretching out my saddle blankets in the 
cool shade of one of the enormous trees that over- 
hung the pool, I lay down and was soon asleep, and 
did not wake agrain till two o'clock. 

After a pipe and a drink of water I set out once 
more, although the heat was intense. Old elephant 
tracks were numerous, and giraffes' spoor, fresh and 
otherwise, crossed our path in every direction. The 
country here is indeed beautiful ; in the rich pasture- 
lands there are conifers and mimosas to afford pleasant 
resting-places, while there is plenty of water and less 
moisture in the atmosphere, probably because the 
altitude is some 200 odd feet above sea-level. After 
marchino- for a little over two hours I came across a 
troop of twelve giraffes quietly feeding on the green 
leaves of a mimosa tree. I got up quite close and 
watched them for half an hour. As luck would have 
it, I had finished the last plate in my camera, so I 
again could not photograph them ; suddenly there 
was a slight puff of wind from behind, a startled 
movement among the giraffes, and they were off at 
their curious undulating gallop, and were soon 
swallowed up in the bush. On my way back to 
camp I shot a couple of francolin and a dik-dik, so I 
was well off for food. On my return to the water- 
hole I found the camels had just arrived ; within an 
hour I had had a most refreshing bath, and sat down 
with a ravenous appetite to an excellent dinner. 
H 113 



CHAPTER X 

MORE ARROLA AND A NEW ZEBRA 

My first day's hunting from Jana Nyeri was quite 
successful. I left in the early morning on foot 
towards the east, and we crossed the belt of bush or 
forest which surrounded the water-hole by a kind of 
tunnel about 4 feet high, and then passing across a 
plain entered once more the thin thorn-scrub which 
had that very desolate aspect so characteristic of 
Jubaland. Giraffes' spoor was exceedingly common, 
and I was not surprised soon afterwards to see one of 
these animals, but it was already in full flight. By 
and by I reached some more open bush, but no 
game could be seen at all, and it was not until we 
had passed another belt of extremely dense thorn- 
scrub, and were about to enter a small open glade, 
that the guide who was walking in front of me 
suddenly crouched down, whispering "fer'ro," which 
is the Somali word for zebra. And sure enough I 
saw, on looking cautiously through a bush, a zebra 
feeding under some mimosa trees in the middle of a 
small open plain. There was not a breath of wind, 
so choosing that part of the bush towards which he 
was slowly grazing, I crept in and out well within the 
scrub, bent double, as it was too thick to walk, until 
I had reached the place I had previously chosen ; 
there I crept on hands and knees till I reached the 

114 



AN UNCOMMON ZEBRA 

edge, where, making myself comfortable, I settled 
down to wait with my rifle in my hand. I was 
wearing a pair of thick corduroy trousers, but they 
afforded me no protection from the thorns, and the 
puggaree of my felt hat was torn to ribbons. 

As I cautiously looked out I saw a most interest- 
ing scene, five zebra in all were feeding quietly and 
slowly towards me, now and then looking up but 
quite unconscious of danger. They were led by an 
old stallion whose body and ears were much scarred 
by fighting. At last he left the others, and, ceasing to 
feed, walked up under a mimosa tree and stood still, 
not 80 yards off. His appearance, even at that dis- 
tance, seemed different from the zebra I had shot 
previously in East Africa. In size he resembled 
Grant's zebra, so commonly seen on the highlands, 
but the arrangement of stripes was unfamiliar to me. 
Moreover, I had expected to find Grevy's zebra in 
these regions. 

Mr. Lydekker states in his book on The Game- 
Animals of Africa, that the latter species range from 
the Tana River into Abyssinia, and the game-ranger 
in Nairobi, Mr. R. B. Woosnam, had corroborated 
this statement. As the zebra drew nearer and nearer 
my excitement grew, till I was afraid I should not 
be able to hold my rifle steady, but at last, as the 
foremost was within 70 yards of my hiding-place, and 
halted for a moment, I raised my rifle cautiously, 
aiming at his neck. I was too close to hear the 
bullet strike, but saw him drop like a log. The 
others seemed to vanish into the bush, so small was 
the little plain in which they were. I had no time 
to shoot again, and never saw them more. I ran 
forward and carefully looked him over. He proved 

115 



ABSENCE OF MANE 

to be a very old stallion, much scarred, but fat, and 
sure enough his appearance was in many respects 
different from the forms with which I was ac- 
quainted. 

Among several other points, which I noted at 
the time, was the curious arrangement of the stripes 
on the back ; the total lack of any mane, as though 
the neck had been carefully clipped ; the full and 
bushy tail, distinctly ringed on the upper portion ; 
the white ears ; the legs fully striped down to the 
hoof, in which it differs from E. b. granti, the lower 
portion of whose legs is black ; the narrow dorsal 
stripe and the presence of three faint shadow stripes 
on the thighs. In a subsequent chapter I intend to 
deal more fully with the characteristics of this animal, 
which has proved to be a new race of zebra, closely 
allied to the E. b. granti, which is typically found on 
the Athi Plains. 

After carefully photographing him in several 
positions, I measured him and finally told my men 
to skin him. Two things then happened that might 
have resulted in serious accidents. First, in getting 
out my pipe from the deep and narrow holster on 
my saddle I got my hand caught, the mule got scared 
as I tugged to get free, the stupid syce pulled on 
his bridle and made him worse, and I found myself 
being dragged along, my wrist bent and almost 
breaking from the strain, and my right shoulder 
somehow in the mule's mouth ! I shouted to the 
syce to let go the bridle, and then I gradually quieted 
the mule, which was frantic with fear, and worked 
my hand free. The whole affair only lasted a minute 
or so, but it was very unpleasant for the time being, 
and my shoulder showed the teeth-marks plainly for 

ii6 



SKINNING THE ZEBRA 

days afterwards. Indeed, the men I had with me that 
day were the most incompetent it has ever been my 
misfortune to deal with. 

My skinner was in camp, looking after the trophies 
I had lately obtained : neither my gun-bearer nor 
guide, nor any of the other porters I had with me 
had the haziest notion of how to undertake the work 
of skinning so large an animal as a zebra. I sat 
down at first under a tree to have a quiet smoke, 
but soon got tired of watching their inefficient attempts, 
and since I was afraid that they would damage the 
skin, I pushed them aside and completed the job 
myself I skinned the whole of that zebra in three- 
quarters of an hour, under a broiling sun, alone, with 
my gun-bearer only helping by holding on when I 
told him. At the time I was not a little proud of 
this feat, especially as right at the beginning, my 
hands being slippery with sweat, and my knife with 
blood, I cut the inside of my thumb to the bone, 
making a fearful gash which gave me some trouble, 
until at length I managed to stanch the flow of blood. 

After this I went on for some time, through a 
country which alternated between little open plains 
and patches of acacia scrub, but, seeing nothing further, 
returned to camp about midday. As I was having 
lunch, a porter, who had gone down to the pool to 
fetch water, came in and reported that he had seen 
a herd of topi quite close, so I went off in search of 
them, and not long after spotted them resting under 
a clump of trees. The lie of the ground and the 
direction from which the wind was blowing were all 
in my favour, and I got to within a very short 
distance of where the foremost stood. This good 
stalk was spoiled by a lamentable shot. They immedi- 

117 



JUBALAND GERENUK 

ately dashed off, but by a most colossal fluke I hit 
a young bull in the neck as the herd galloped past 
me, and he turned head over heels like a rabbit. 

After sending the meat back to camp, I turned 
westward and, on reaching a large plain some five 
miles farther on, I saw the same herd of arrola from 
which I had shot a cow a few days previously. They 
were very much on the alert, however, and very sus- 
picious of danger. Cover was scarce and the breeze 
fickle, so that I was unable to get anywhere within 
range, and finally lost them altogether. 

Much disappointed, I made my way back to camp, 
and, as I entered the valley of Jana Nyeri, I caught 
a glimpse of a gerenuk feeding. Although I got very 
close to him I missed badly with my first shot, but 
broke his neck with the second before he had time 
to escape. No gerenuk seemed to have very big 
horns in Jubaland. They averaged from twelve 
inches to fourteen inches, although three out of the 
four that I had killed were solitary bucks fully adult, 
and one even of great age. As is the case with 
nearly all antelopes, it is the old bucks that always 
carry the finest horns, herd bulls being generally 
younger animals, whose horns have not yet attained 
their maximum development. In bodily size, how- 
ever, the gerenuk I killed in Jubaland were not 
noticeably smaller than those inhabiting the country 
farther west on the banks of the Uaso Nyiro. 

In direct contrast to the success which attended 
my efforts at first, the rest of my stay at Jana Nyeri 
was marked by unrelieved failure. Principally due 
to bad shooting, but also to the fact that the solitary 
herd of arrola inhabiting this district were growing 
ever more suspicious, I was unable, during my last 

ii8 



A NEW GUIDE 

four days, to locate the herd at all. In fact, it 
was only on the third day that I ever got near 
them or had the remotest chance of success. Up at 
five, I reached the plains before dawn, and soon sighted 
the same herd, whose individual members I was now 
beginning to recognise quite easily. Then began a 
most exasperating stalk, that lasted four hours ; time 
and time again, with the help of a guide, I thought 
that I should be able to approach close enough to 
get a shot, but invariably when I emerged from the 
bush the game was gone ; and finally, at ten o'clock, 
we lost them altogether, and though I searched for 
them most diligently until long after noon, I had to 
return, empty-handed and disappointed once more, 
to camp. 

Here I was informed that Abdi Aden had arrived 
and had brought me a new guide to take me farther 
west. He very generously presented me with some 
fine wooden pillows and hair combs, which made a 
valuable addition to my ethnological collection. He 
was delighted with a present of a full " tobe " of 
bufta, a brilliant loin-cloth, a coloured piece of silk 
and some coffee, which I gave him in return ; but his 
father-in-law, who accompanied him, on receiving his 
piece of calico (which, I must say, was a little soiled 
by contact with the camel's back), merely remarked 
that "he would now have to buy a piece of soap to 
wash it with." I firmly ignored this gentle hint, and 
having submitted to the scrutiny of some half a dozen 
friends "who," as he said, "had never seen a white 
man before," proceeded to pay off my old guide. He 
demanded an exorbitant price for his week's work, 
and when reproached for this, Abdi Aden answered 
for him, and remarked that these bushmen did not 

119 



DIMINISHING FOOD AND WATEH 

know the value of things. But I noticed that their 
ignorance has a very practical side, and I hesitate to 
think of the value they will put on their services 
when they do get to know "the value of things." 

Water and food were now fast diminishing ; the 
animals in the district were becoming shy and wild, 
so I decided to move on to another haunt of the 
arrola, farther north. All the afternoon I spent in 
writing letters and getting ready to plunge once more 
into the bush on another stage of my long journey to 
the Lorian. Abdi Aden excused himself now from 
accompanying me, but as he had provided me with 
another guide to take his place, his refusal was of no 
importance. We parted on the most friendly terms, 
and throughout my dealings with him I found him 
pleasant, helpful and trustworthy. One of my 
camels had been ill for some time, and now he died 
from some obscure internal complaint called "gainda" 
by the natives. But in proportion as the food 
diminished the loads grew lighter, and his loss, 
therefore, was of no serious consequence. 

Here Said, one of my porters, caught a delightful 
little pet in the shape of a young mongoose. In size 
he was as big as a small rat, with silk-like olive- 
coloured hair and pink face. He quickly became 
very tame, and was a general favourite with every- 
body. He had for companion a tiny hare, which 
one of the camel syces had caught in the plain near 
by. They were kept in a curious little cage of bark, 
really very ingeniously made by one of my men, in 
shape and size similar to a large Rugby football. 

Very early the following morning the caravan got 
under way. I left at the head of my men in gorgeous 
moonlight ; we passed my old camp at Ob^ as dawn 

1 20 











s M 



A PARK-LIKE COUNTRY 

broke, and then turned north-west. Shortly after- 
wards we entered a most beautiful park-like country, 
with long green grass, shady oak trees and delicate 
mimosas. The going, however, was rather heavy, 
as we were not following a path, and the grass was 
knee-deep and somewhat tangled ; but the whole 
aspect of the place suggested cool running streams 
of clear water. Would that it had been true ! But 
our next camp was to be a dry one, and some forty 
miles of desert lay between us and the next rainpool. 

After marching through this kind of country for 
a couple of hours, we suddenly entered the bush 
again, and a more complete contrast can scarcely 
be imagined. The low grey scrub, without shade 
and covered with thorns, formed a scene as arid and 
desolate as the other was fertile and beautiful. We 
marched along at a good pace, for the path was good, 
though it wound endlessly in order to avoid the 
densest parts. We emerged at last into a minute 
little plain, in which was a deserted Somali boma. 
Here I decided to allow the camels to feed and rest 
before a'cinof on once more. 

While lunch was being got ready I took some 
photographs of the abandoned huts, and while doing 
so, found an old broken spoon, very handsomely 
carved. I was exceedingly interested to find that 
on the back of the handle the man's cattle brand 
had been cut, and my guide, on seeing it, stated that 
it must have belonged to Abdi Aden, who had had 
his boma there during the previous rains. Later I 
found the same brand on some of the trees in the 
vicinity. 

We left again in the afternoon, first going west- 
wards for quite a long time and then N.N.W. 

121 



A LARGE HERD OF ARROLA 

through very dry and arid bush country. Here I 
saw a large herd of giraffe, thirty-eight in all, mostly 
young cows ; but they had had our wind and were 
already in full flight. Towards sunset we once more 
reached a large plain, covered with small trees and 
short withered grass. I saw a large herd of oryx 
feeding, and after a poor stalk took a shot, but only 
managed to wound one. I was much annoyed, as I 
needed meat, not only for myself, but for my men. 
I had seen no arrola on the march, but the country 
seemed very suitable, so I decided to camp and try 
my luck on the following days. The heat had been 
terrific and had tried men and camels severely, and 
the long march had proved too much for the little 
hare, who succumbed during the night ; but the 
mongoose was growing more tame each day, and 
seemed to enjoy the weather rather than the reverse. 

My first day's hunting was unsuccessful. As soon 
as I had left camp in the early morning I saw some 
oryx in the distance, and started in their direction, but 
there was little cover and I was doubtful of being 
able to approach sufficiently close without alarming 
them. But as I was moving slowly forward, I 
suddenly saw to my left a large herd of arrola 
walking slowly across the plain toward the bush. 
Very quietly I turned back, and making a detour 
reached the bush at a trot before they arrived ; then 
settling myself in a comfortable position, so as to be 
sure of my shot, I awaited them. They came all 
right, twenty-eight in all, big bulls every one, except 
the last two, which were young cows. I took careful 
aim, and fired, hitting the foremost one rather far 
back behind the shoulder. Then followed a series 
of really shameful misses, and I finally lost sight of 

122 



STALKING ARROLA 

them, without being able to bring a single one to 
bag. I was thoroughly ashamed of myself, but on 
returning to camp and trying the rifle at a target, I 
found that I could not get anywhere near it. Then 
it dawned upon me that I must have struck a bad 
box of cartridges, and so it proved, for, on opening 
a new box, I immediately found the bull's eye. 

Of course when I went out in the afternoon I saw 
nothing, and returned in disgust after a trying and 
disappointing day. The following morning I was 
on the warpath at dawn. I made my way on foot 
to where I had seen the arrola the day before. I 
carried my double-barrelled '450, while my gun- 
bearer followed behind with my '318 magazine rifle 
and a new batch of cartridges. I crept through the 
scattered bush extraordinarily cautiously, and soon 
I was rewarded by catching sight of a white rump 
patch disappearing in the long grass some way in 
front. With redoubled caution now I crept forward 
by myself, leaving the other man behind, and soon 
saw a beautiful buck arrola feeding slowly away from 
me. Then, risking everything to get close and be 
sure of my shot, I made a long detour ; doubling 
back, and crawling on hands and knees through the 
grass right across his path, I reached the shelter of 
a bush, and there, concealed in the shadow, awaited 
his approach. This manoeuvre was entirely successful. 
He was quite unaware of any threatening danger and 
was feeding slowly in a direction that would bring 
him within 20 yards of me. It was a beautiful sight 
to watch him, moving slowly through the bush, now 
and then looking up, his great lyre-shaped horns 
showing clearly against the blue sky. He gradually 
sheered a little farther from me, but as he drew level 

123 



A FINE PRIZE 

he was just 8i yards off. Now was my chance, 
so, grasping the "450 firmly, and taking a fine bead 
on his shoulder, I fired ; the report was too loud for 
me to hear the bullet clap, but I saw him fall, rise 
and fall again, the blood pouring in torrents from his 
mouth. Greatly delighted I ran forward, and found 
him lying dead, the bullet having gone through the 
lungs and out on the other side. 

And what a magnificent prize he proved ! 
Absolutely in the height of condition, and in the 
prime of life, he carried on his small and shapely 
head a wonderfully handsome pair of horns. They 
were enormously massive and measured 27^ inches on 
the front curve, thus exceeding the previous record. 
The followingr are the measurements which I took 
upon the field : Height at shoulder, 48 inches ; length 
from tip of nose to root of tail along the curves of 
the body, 69 inches ; girth behind shoulder, 48 inches ; 
length of tail, 18 inches. 

After taking several photographs of him I sent 
for a camel and had him taken back to camp while 
I went on ; and while returning to camp I saw two 
topi and five gerenuk ; two of the latter were fighting 
furiously, their little horns locked, often going down 
on their knees in their furious endeavours to over- 
throw each other. Watching them and apparently 
totally absorbed in the sight the two topi stood 
together quite motionless on an ant-heap. They 
looked exceedingly foolish and solemn standing there, 
and their interest in the fight cost one of them his 
life, for I crawled through the grass till I was within 
50 yards. Before firing I too watched the gerenuk 
until one had almost overcome the other ; I then 
aimed at the biggest of the two topi and brought 

124 



TOPI AND GERENUK 

off a successful shot, dropping him in his tracks. 
He proved to be a big bull, with heavy horns, 
measuring i8|- inches, and I was delighted, as we 
needed meat badly and it saved one day's rations. 

During the rest of my stay at Goloshe Gorme 
I hunted with varying success, and bagged, amongst 
other things, another fine bull arrola and an oryx, 
but I saw no more zebra and no lesser kudu. Finally, 
the herd of arrola which I had been so assiduously 
pursuing became very wild and shy, and left the 
locality at last ; so, having already obtained a small, 
but fairly comprehensive bag of the game-animals 
found in Jubaland, I decided to proceed northwards. 
One day was spent in getting ready and putting 
everything in good order, and on the following day 
at early dawn we broke camp. 



125 



CHAPTER XI 

ACROSS THE WILDERNESS 

I NOW regretfully turned my back on the haunts of 
the arrola, and faced the difficult problems that lay 
in front of me. For now I had to cross a huge 
stretch of wilderness, a vast expanse of bush that 
separated me from the Lak Dera and the Lorian. 
Much of it was unknown even to the Somali, who 
prefer the district of Bhodji, and have named the 
country immediately to the south of the Lak Dera 
Rama Gudi (the bush wilderness). The district of 
Gulola, however, towards which I was now travelling, 
is inhabited, as I have said elsewhere, by the 
Maghabul Somali, and I hoped to meet their sultan, 
from whom I desired to obtain guides to lead me 
westward. 

As we left camp there was just that almost 
imperceptible glow in the east, called, I believe, the 
false dawn. I always think the sunrise one of the 
most beautiful things I know, and I never grow tired 
of watching and enjoying it. On this occasion, 
owing to the heavy clouds and thick mist, it was 
particularly lovely, the sky shading from a lovely 
blue to mauve and rose, while on every branch and 
every blade of grass the dewdrops sparkled and 
glistened and the countless spider webs seemed 
iridescent in the growing sunlight. 

I led the way along the trail, leaving the caravan 

126 



SENSATIONAL RIDING 

a little way behind, enjoying the comparatively cool 
air and the beautiful scene. Suddenly two lesser 
kudu, to my mind the most handsome of all antelopes, 
dashed across the path, startled by the sounds of 
the camels' bells, and were immediately lost to sight 
in the bush. Otherwise an unbroken calm reigned 
over this wilderness, into which I was the first white 
man to penetrate. But soon it began to grow hot, 
the dewdrops vanished, the sun disappeared behind 
heavy storm-clouds and the beauty of the scene 
vanished with it. 

Some two hours later, I entered a little clearing, 
in which was situated a small Somali boma con- 
sisting of ten huts of the usual type. The entire 
population, male and female, old and young, came 
out to see the "white man" — and this anxiety to 
see me led to a somewhat humorous incident. For 
my mule, which stands nearly fourteen hands, and was 
very nervous, suddenly shied violently at a little 
boy who was hiding behind a bush, and then bolted 
towards a group of Somali standing near the village. 
I was nearly thrown, but somehow managed to stick 
on, and by sawing on his bit pulled the mule up 
short after a most sensational piece of riding through 
the scattered thorn-scrub. The expression on the 
faces of the natives, and the chorus of astonished 
"Allahs!" made me shake with laughter, as they 
obviously thought I had made the mule do this for 
their benefit, or else that it was my usual method of 
travelling ! As a matter of fact, I do not know to 
this day how I managed to stick on. 

After filling up the water-tanks, and shooting a 
couple of guinea-fowl, I went on again, still through 
the bush, indeed, but a bush quite different from what 

127 



TRACKS IN THE WILDS 

I had seen so far ; all kinds of cacti now covered the 
ground beneath the thorn trees, and the latter were 
different in shape and more attractive. The road 
twisted and turned in a most fantastic manner, 
rendering my mapping a very tedious affair, so that 
we averaged scarcely more than a mile and a half 
in the hour. I was here obliged to resort to a plan 
first put into practice, I believe, by Mr. G. F. Archer, 
during his valuable surveys of the Northern Frontier 
District. In order to get the bearing of the general 
direction of the road, I sent on a couple of camels 
with bells attached, and the rest followed behind. In 
this way I was able to get both forward and back 
bearings of the track by pointing my compass in the 
direction from which the sound of the camel bells 
proceeded, for it was impossible to see them. 

At one time we passed through a series of little 
open places covered with short green grass, and 
surrounded by dense bush on all sides, at another 
through a real tunnel formed by the interlacing of 
the thorn trees above our heads. Continually I 
caught sight of a dainty little form bounding across 
the path, and heard the frightened whistle of a dik- 
dik as it vanished in the jungle, or the loud whirr of 
wings as a covey of guinea-fowl rose in alarm. To 
the lover of nature there is unending pleasure in 
noting all the innumerable signs and tracks that 
abound in the wilds, and in reconstructing the story 
they can tell to those whose experience and bush-craft 
are sufficient to enable them to read them. 

In this way the hours passed pleasantly and quickly 
till we reached Jara, which consists of three small 
water-holes and a shallow swamp. In the latter 
water can generally be obtained by digging, and there 

128 



FISH 

were traces of three old wells overgrown with reeds 
and fallen into disuse. In the centre was a little 
water, fast disappearing, yet in the mud I discovered 
several small fish about 4 inches long. Two of 
these I caught and brought back for identification, 
and presented, with other specimens, to the British 
Museum. How strange it seemed to find them so 
far from any permanent stream or lake ! I think 
there can be no doubt that there is an underground 
flow of water here, as, according to native information 
from various sources, water is always to be found at 
a depth of about 10 feet. But whether these fish are 
able to burrow down through the mud until they reach 
it, when the surface water evaporates, I am unable 
to say. 

While the camels were feeding here, I interviewed 
the headman of the village which was situated near 
by. He told me that they were on the point of 
moving, but had been delayed by illness, which proved 
on investiofation to be malaria. I rave him some 
quinine, for which he was very grateful, and some 
tobacco, which was eagerly accepted. 

Later I moved on again ; the weather had now 
grown most oppressive and a couple of showers fell, 
but so slight that they did no good, and only increased 
the humidity. We had now entered the district of 
Kurde and the densest bush I had yet encountered. 
Travelling became monotonous in the extreme, and 
for four hours there was no opening of any kind in 
the bush where I could camp, but at last, towards 
sunset, we emerged into a little clearing where I 
decided to halt. After the camels had been unloaded 
and the fires lit, there was not a piece of ground as 
large as a shilling that was not covered with loads, 
I 129 



ELEPHANTS 

tents, ropes, etc. It was an interesting scene I saw 
from my tent, the little camp fires burning brightly in 
the dark niorht, the half-seen forms of men movinor 
about or crouching over their cooking-pots, the dim 
outlines of the resting camels and piled saddles and 
loads. Near at hand the harsh voices of the Somali 
sounded in endless talk, or snatches of Swahili con- 
versation drifted over from the cook's fire. In the 
distance came the low rumble of thunder and the 
multitudinous noises of the jungle. 

All the following morning we made our way 
through similar country to that which we had passed 
the day before, the sky was again covered with huge 
black clouds, and there was obviously a heavy storm 
coming. It was obvious, too, that there had been 
plenty of rain, and yet the thorn was extremely dry 
and arid looking, and the only green plants were the 
cacti and aloes. Soon I saw the fresh spoor of two 
cow-elephants and a small calf; they must have 
passed but a few hours before. I could not resist 
getting off my mule to have a nearer look at those 
monster footprints, silent witnesses of the near 
presence of the biggest game alive to-day. Elephants, 
dik-dik and girafies are the sole inhabitants of the 
East African desert jungle, especially the two former. 

In Southern Jubaland elephants do not need pro- 
tection, for they will continue to live for centuries 
unmolested in these vast tracks of desolate and water- 
less thorn-scrub which can never be inhabited by 
Europeans. It is true that they are much sought after 
by native hunters, but it is only the white man with 
his modern rifle who can upset the balance of nature. 

About noon we passed across a small, open plain, 
where I saw a herd of oryx beisa feeding, and then 

130 



DISCOMFORTS 

reached a beautiful little stretch of open bush, 
plentifully shaded by giant umbrella trees. It is here 
that the Lak Guran has its source ; at least it is 
towards this point that all the surrounding country 
gradually and gently slopes, but there is not sufficient 
water to make a real river-bed until a point a little 
farther is reached ; this district is called Goniah-iddu, 
which means the "sandy lonely place." It will be 
seen, therefore, that the Lak Guran rises in Kurde 
and flows almost due east until Shimbirleh is reached, 
which is a very different course to that marked on 
existing maps. 

I remained here for some time, the storm was 
approaching and the heat was indescribably op- 
pressive ; no breath of air stirred, and the poor 
camels, instead of feeding as usual, lay down in the 
shade of the trees. It was with some reluctance that 
I got on my mule again and started off towards 
Gulola. The march was extremely tedious, and there 
was nothing to be seen except an occasional bird or 
even more rarely a dik-dik bounding through the 
bush. At three o'clock the storm which had been 
threatening for days broke in earnest ; the rain fell 
in solid sheets of water and we were immediately 
drenched to the skin. It is impossible to describe 
all the discomforts of this kind of weather as you 
have to face it when marching in a tropical country, 
but it is too unpleasant for words. Clothes become 
wet and sticky, the road degenerates into a kind of 
bog, the mud from which clings to one's boots and 
makes walking a nightmare ; nothing is dry, while 
the heat does not grow less, but rather more oppressive 
than before. At 5.30 we camped in another little 
clearing, my tent was soon pitched and the fires 

131 



DISCOMFORTS 

lighted ; everything was steaming ; although the rain 
had stopped, the heavy clouds hung low, and light- 
ning flickered now and then to the northward. All 
throuoh the evening the distant rumblings of thunder 
foretold rain for the morrow. My bedding was wet, 
my clothes wet, and I had no more meat, so after a 
frugal dinner of rice and tea, I went to bed. 

The following day I started off before dawn, still 
going to the north-north-west. I walked, as my 
saddle was sodden with water and my mule could not 
stand up in the mud. It soon began to drizzle, half 
mist half rain, and it was rather a depressed caravan 
that marched on through the bush. The trail too 
was growing worse and worse, the wait-a-bit thorn 
thicker and thicker, and I soon saw the guide had 
lost his way. Although considerably annoyed I 
could not do anything, but, calling up my men and 
setting an example myself, I started to cut a way 
through the bush for the camels. This was slow and 
painful work, hands, arms and face getting badly 
scratched by the thorn, but in two hours we reached 
a huge swamp, across which I led the way by an old 
elephant path. The grass rose high above our heads, 
and the water came up to our knees as we sank in 
the mud. Great difficulty was experienced in getting 
the camels across ; each had to be unloaded and the 
things carried by the porters, who then returned to 
lead the camels over to the other side. Once we 
were all across, the guide knew where he was, but I 
decided to camp while he went on to find out where 
the Sultan's village was, for I depended on him for a 
euide to take me to the Lorian. 

There were some beautiful umbrella trees here, 
so I chose a nice spot, and my tent was soon up. 

132 




A Marabou Stork 

These hideous birds are very useful as scavengers. They possess a very valuable small bunch of 
feathers under the tail. In order to procure one ounce of these feathers it would be necessary to kill 
at least three birds. 

















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Loading a Camel with the Water Tanks 

These tanks, of which two can be seen in the right-hand corner, and one on the camel, are 
mdispensable to the traveller in the interior of Jubaland. They are made of copper, and 
contain from lo to 12 gallons. 



THE WEAVER BIRD 

While the guide was away I spent my time ex- 
amining this important water-hole which is known to 
the natives by the name of Gama Gar, It is about 
five miles in circumference, roughly circular in shape, 
and is situated in a shallow depression. It is filled 
with elephant grass and surrounded by dense acacia 
bush, spiny euphorbias and a few large conifers 
[Juniperzis procera). A small stream runs into it 
from the west ; the water within the swamp was 
about 3 inches deep, and the ground beneath very 
soft and boggy. 

While here I obtained a few doves, a francolin 
and some good specimens of the weaver bird's nest. 
These nests are rather curious in shape, and are 
generally to be found in small colonies, hanging down 
from the branches of some thorn tree, having their 
entrance at the bottom. In shape they resemble a 
large pipe or chemist's retort, for attached to the 
entrance, and forming a kind of tunnel, is a tube 
about 1 8 inches long and 2 inches in diameter, 
made out of grass. Owing to the cloudy skies of the 
last few days it had been impossible to take any 
observations for latitude, but on the evening previous 
to my departure from Gama Gar I had an unob- 
structed view of the sky for a couple of hours, and I 
was therefore able to fix the position of the place with 
fair accuracy. When the guide came back he said 
that the village was an hour's march away, and that 
the Sultan had not yet arrived, but was expected on 
the morrow. I therefore broke camp without any 
regret, as the flies, mosquitoes and small red ticks 
made life a perfect burden. The swamp, however, 
was important geographically, and I was glad to have 
had this opportunity of studying it. 



A BUSY VILLAGE 

The country between Gama Gar and Gulola 

village slopes gradually upwards towards the north ; 

but the rains of the last few days had left pools of 

water everywhere and made the going very heavy. 

After an hour's march, however, we reached the village 

itself, a little cluster of beehive-shaped huts nestling 

under some large acacia trees. While my orderly 

was looking for a good place to pitch camp, I sat 

and watched the scene of great activity that was 

going on, for some more families had but just arrived 

and the Sultan himself was expected in the afternoon. 

All around the cattle were moving about herded by 

little naked boys, while the women, nearly all with 

the black cloth denoting marriage tied round their 

heads, began to build the houses they had brought 

with them on the gentle, cream-coloured oxen. The 

men, their white cloths thrown round them, were 

either standing on one leg, resting on their spears and 

watching us, or were beginning to cut branches and 

bushes to make the thorn fence around the village. 

There were camels too, with little children slung in 

sacks, and balanced on the other side by tiny lambs 

or kids, and in between, on the backs of animals, were 

every kind of household goods to complete the load. 

The sun very luckily came out a little later, so 
I was able to take an observation for latitude, but 
almost immediately after it began to rain, and the 
storm continued all the afternoon, only clearing up 
again at 4 p.m., when I immediately took further 
observations for time. 

I had hardly finished when I saw coming down 
the trail a long line of laden oxen and camels, led by 
old women and Galla slaves ; and soon, surrounded 
by a dozen young warriors, a few elders and a priest, 

134 



THE SULTAN MOHAMMED ALI 

the Sultan Mohammed All entered my boma and 
advanced towards my tent. I went out to meet him 
and, as we shook hands, my four askaris each fired 
one shot in the air and presented arms, while every- 
body cheered. I could see that he was much 
gratified with his reception, but as it is not etiquette 
for a chief to talk to a stranger before he has given 
the latter a present, he only said that he was very 
glad to see me, and then excusing himself went off to 
his village, saying that he would return later, with my 
permission. Standing about 5 foot 8, he was a short, 
thick-set man with rather a fine head and strong, clean- 
cut features ; he was dressed in the characteristic 
white robe and carried the usual warrior spear, which 
was noticeable for its splendid black shaft. At dusk 
he returned together with about twenty-three of his 
followers, and sat down in front of my tent on some 
blankets I had provided for them. While " buni " 
was being prepared for them, I made a long speech, 
in which I told him that I had been very pleased 
with the welcome I had received from his subjects 
farther south, and I went on to explain my plans and 
to ask them for help. To all this they listened very 
patiently, and while he was thinking of an answer 
and drank his coffee, I went into my tent and had 
supper. But while I was waiting for it they told me 
that it was time for them to pray, so taking off their 
sandals and sprinkling their hands, face and feet, 
they stood up, the priest in front, and with rather a 
splendid lack of self-consciousness began their prayers. 
All through supper, I saw their dim forms bending 
down and prostrating themselves, following the ex- 
ample of the priest, whose low droning voice rose and 
fell in a monotonous undertone in the darkness without. 

135 



COMPLIMENTS AND PRESENTS 

When I had finished I went out again, and 
Mohammed Ali, having presented me with a really 
magnificent ox, spoke for a long time. He began 
with the usual flowery compliments of the East, and 
spoke of the friendship he professed for the Govern- 
ment, of which he had hitherto been unable to offer 
tangible proof, since no officer had previously visited 
his country ; he hoped, however, that I should carry 
away with me pleasant memories of my stay there. 
He told me that little was known about the roads 
from here to Lorian, since it was a country that was 
reputed waterless and inhospitable, and had therefore 
been avoided by his tribes ; he would return, he said, 
the following morning, and if he could find two men 
who knew the road he would see that they should 
guide me thither. 

His news was not very satisfactory, but I had 
perforce to be contented. 



136 



CHAPTER XII 

SOME NOTES ON THE SOMALI 

I HAD now reached the heart of the country I was 
exploring, and found myself amongst a tribe whose 
customs and character have been influenced by con- 
tact with Europeans, and who have not yet come 
into contact with Western civilisation. It would 
therefore seem not inappropriate that I should give 
some account of the Jubaland Somali ; I do not 
propose to deal at any length with their history, for 
such matters are fully dealt with in certain books on 
British Somaliland,^ and my own stay in Jubaland 
was not sufficiently extended to qualify me to speak 
with authority on the subject. 

In East Africa there are only two main branches 
of the true Somali, namely, the Ishaak and the 
Darud, and it is only the latter that is represented in 
Jubaland. According to the native account, in the 
75th year of Hejira (692 a.d.) an Arab Sheik, Ismail 
Juberti by name, was outlawed in his own country 
and fled from Arabia by night in a dhow. After 
many vicissitudes of fortune, he landed on the 
Benadir coast near Hobia (or Obbia), but the inhabi- 
tants of that country, the Haweyah, refused to shelter 
him and drove him out ; he was compelled therefore 

^ La valUe du Darror, G. Revoil ; British Somaliland, R. E. Drake- 
Brockman. 



BRANCHES OF SOMALI 

to flee southwards, but eventually was received by 
the Dirr, another aboriginal tribe of the Benadir 
coast. With them he settled down, and married 
Dubarra, daughter of Dogolla, by whom he had five 
sons, from one of whom, namely, Darud Juberti, all 
the Darud Somali are descended. Of the tribes now 
represented in Jubaland, the Marehan claim descent 
from Esa, and the Ogadan and Herti from Kablala 
Darud, both sons of the above-mentioned Darud 
Juberti. The Marehan are again subdivided into 
three important branches, the Hassan, the Isak and 
the Galti. It is only within the last six years that 
the latter have entered Jubaland. They possess a 
quantity of horses and camels, but few cattle. They 
inhabit the country near Dolo and Sarrenleh, and at 
the present time are giving some trouble to the 
Government, as I have mentioned in a previous 
chapter. Their numbers may be estimated at about 
5000. 

In the immediate vicinity of Kismayu, and as far 
south as Biskayia, are the Herti. Their head chief 
is Mohammed Shirwa, but he is still a young man, 
and the affairs of the tribe are in the hands of 
Mohammed Aden. The Herti are divided into three 
important sub-tribes — the Dolbahanta, the Was- 
engeleh and the Midjertein. The first-named still 
remain east of the Juba, and there are but few of 
the Wasengeleh in British territory. The Midjertein 
are, however, fairly strongly represented, about 3000 
inhabiting the country between Gobwein and Port 
Durnford. The Herti, being traders as well as cattle- 
owners, have confined themselves to the coast, where 
they have kept in close touch with the Arabs, and 
were amongst the first to submit to British rule. 

138 





A Somali Woman 

She is carrying an earthenware water jar. 



A Somali Girl 



\ 


^J^^^ 




_^ 






W « il 


rWi, 


4^ 


HjwIft^^^^^T^^c^^iWB^^^^^^^H 


^tlg 


i 



An Ogaden War-Dance 

For a description of these dances, see Chapters VII and XI i I. 



ABDULLA SOMALI 

They are very different from the real nomads of 
the interior, and from personal experience I did not 
form a very favourable opinion of those I met in 
Jubaland. They are avaricious and money-loving, a 
fault I am afraid common to all Somali, but in their 
case intensified to an almost incredible extent ; they 
have been spoiled by too frequent contact with 
European influences, and seem to possess the vices 
of two civilisations without the redeeming qualities 
of either. 

Very different to the Herti are the true Somali of 
the bush, of which the Ogaden tribe is chiefly com- 
posed. The most important sub-tribes of the latter 
are the Mohammed Zubheir, the Aulehan, the Abdulla, 
the Abd Wak and the Maghabul, while the Rer 
Mohammed and the Habr Suliman are two minor 
subdivisions. 

The Abdulla inhabit the country to the south- 
west of Biskayia as far as the Tana River. West- 
wards again from them are the Abd Wak and the 
Rer Mohammed, known collectively as Talamuga. 
The latter occasionally wander into the hills north of 
Lorian, but there is a constant feud between them 
and the Mohammed Zubheir, whose headquarters are 
at Wajheir, and many are the fierce fights waged 
between them. Shortly before I reached Melka 
Waja, the Mohammed Zubheir, led by their chief, 
Ahmed Mugan, had inflicted a terrible defeat on the 
Talamuga, after a fight lasting thirty-six hours, in 
which, according to native reports, there was great 
loss of life on both sides. The victors then returned 
northwards, taking with them some four hundred head 
of cattle. I am unable to say in what way the spoils 
are divided amongst the victorious army, since the 

139 



A STEADY MIGRATION 

answers to my questions varied considerably. It is 
likely, however, that each tribe has its own methods, 
although all are probably based on the same general 
principles. 

The Aulehan inhabit the country between Lorian 
and Sarrenleh ; but they are generally to be found in 
the northern parts of that region, and it is only an 
occasional family, or a band of young warriors, that 
makes its way south to Tur Guda and Haryel. 

The Maghabul, although not numerically strong, 
possess immense herds of cattle ; they wander in 
search of grass and water through the districts of 
Joreh and Gulola, according to the season ; and it was 
with them that I remained the longest. 

There was, and there is still, a steady migration of 
Somali from the north towards the south and west ; I 
have already referred to the fact that the Marehan 
have but lately crossed the Juba, while it is only the 
Tana that temporarily prevented the Abdulla and the 
Abd Wak from driving the Galla still farther south. 
Some seventy-five years ago the latter tribe enjoyed 
undisputed possession of the country between the 
Juba and the Tana. At the same time the Ogaden 
Somali were migrating southwards in the vicinity of 
the Webbe Shebeyli. Here they were met by the 
Rahn-Wen and the Bimaal, who severely defeated 
them and drove them westwards across the Juba 
River. They now came into collision with the Galla, 
locally known to-day in Jubaland as the Werdey, by 
whom they were again defeated with great loss ; the 
fighting, however, was continued for nearly two years, 
when they made peace, and obtained the consent of 
the Galla to settle side by side with them in Jubaland. 
For five years this state of things continued ; in the 

140 



GALLA AND SOMALI 

meanwhile the Somali were recuperating from their 
exhausting conflicts with the Rahn-Wen and Bimaal, 
their numbers were increasing, and they were finally- 
joined by the Herti, who had come down by sea in 
dhows. Finally they seized a favourable opportunity, 
broke their agreement, and rose simultaneously against 
the Galla, whom they utterly routed and drove south- 
wards and westwards. This movement is, as I have 
said, still progressing ; the Somali, although they are 
submissive to British rule along the coast, are, in the 
interior, still a conquering race, and whether they 
defeat the Borana or the Galla, they will be uncon- 
sciously carrying out the curious impulse that for the 
last eighty years has been pushing them southwards 
and westwards. 

In Jubaland proper there is only one Galla settle- 
ment, but there are several individuals of that tribe 
serving the Ogaden in the interior either as herdsmen 
or as slaves. Physically they are smaller, but more 
sturdily built than the Somali, to whom they are much 
inferior in intelligence. It would seem probable, from 
a comparison of their respective languages, that the 
Somali and the Galla come from a common parent 
stock ; but this is a particularly difficult question, and 
requires for its elucidation a more complete knowledge 
of both languages than we possess at present. The 
Galla are Pagans, although many of them now profess 
Islam ; but in any case, according to Western ideas, 
their morality is very lax, and at marriage it is not 
their custom to give a dowry. Having had but a 
slight acquaintance with them, I prefer to refer the 
reader to books such as Travels in S. Abyssinia, 
by C. Johnston, for further information concerning 
them, and will now pass on to the consideration of 

141 



GEOGRAPHICAL ASPECTS 

some of the most characteristic habits of the Somali. 
But since cHmatic and physical conditions are so 
intimately connected with, and have so profound an 
influence on, the character and habits of the natives, I 
must first briefly recapitulate the main geographical 
aspects of the country. 

In the whole of Jubaland there are no permanent 
rivers or streams except the Juba and the Tana, and 
no permanent water-holes except the wells at Wajheir, 
Eil Wak, Afmadu and Fungal in the north, and a 
few fresh-water springs along the coast. A glance at 
the map will immediately show the large tract of 
country where desert conditions must therefore of 
necessity prevail. At all times sparsely inhabited, 
the interior is completely deserted during the dry 
season, the Somali with their cattle, goats and camels, 
moving south to the Tana, west to the Lorian and 
north and east to the permanent wells and the Juba. 
The word "desert," which is applied to this waterless 
region, immediately conjures up a picture of waste 
stretches of rolling sanddunes, such as are found in 
parts of the Sahara, or the wide open plains with bare 
volcanic ridges so characteristic of the great desert 
areas of Western America and North- West Mexico ; 
but very different conditions prevail in Jubaland. 

The whole of the region with which I am now 
concerned is clothed with a low, dense thorn-scrub 
which from time to time opens out into little park- 
like spaces, covered during the rainy season with a 
temporary growth of luxuriant grass. In the centre 
and north-west, the belts of bush become denser and 
more difficult to penetrate, but towards the Tana the 
open plains become larger and more numerous. If 
these facts are remembered, much that is otherwise 

142 



NOMADIC HABITS 

incomprehensible in the habits of the SomaH is 
explained, and it will be obvious how much the 
country they inhabit has moulded their characters 
and influenced their way of living. They themselves 
have a saying, which illustrates my point, " God 
made Somaliland : then He laughed and made the 
Somali." 

Since there is no permanent water-supply, agricul- 
ture is rendered impossible. Their wealth therefore 
consists in live stock, and in order to keep them in 
good condition the natives are obliged to wander 
from place to place, according to the season, in endless 
search of good pasture and of water. Years of such 
wanderings have developed their nomadic instincts to 
the full, and have moulded their physique into a form 
almost ideally suited to such a life. Resembling an 
Arab in appearance, the Somali is slightly built, small 
boned, and very lithe and active. Accustomed to 
hardships of every kind, and exposed to danger from 
his earliest years, he is content with a minimum of 
physical comfort and becomes a tireless marcher, a 
wonderful scout and a courageous warrior. In 
endless conflict with the natural difficulties of his 
country and the vicissitudes of his climate, perpetually 
defending himself from the dangers that beset his 
life and his belongings, he finds rest only in his 
wanderings, peace and contentment of heart only 
in fighting and in adding to his stock by raiding 
that of his neighbour. 

In his heart he considers himself perfect and far 
superior to the tribes by which he is surrounded. 
He holds in subjection the Waboni, and despises 
the Galla, refusing to believe for a moment in the 
possibility of a common origin. But this narrow and 

143 



ADAPTABILITY OF THE SOMALI 

bigoted outlook on life, inevitable to a people whose 
ideals are made up of a fancied superiority, is not 
incompatible with an acute intelligence, and this 
they possess without a doubt. No native is more 
adaptable than the Somali. They may be found 
as stokers on big liners, as miners in South Africa, 
as servants, soldiers, interpreters and clerks, and 
they do their work well ; but as soon as they return 
to their homes they cast off the conventional dress 
of civilisation, and become once more true nomads, 
for in such a life only can they find their full measure 
of happiness. 

Like the Arabs, they may well be called true 
Children of the Desert. Essentially lazy in times 
of peace, their dignity does not allow them to do 
any manual work, which is therefore left to the 
women. Their sole preoccupation is to see to the 
welfare of their stock and to add to their possessions 
by raiding the cattle of their enemies. When not 
thus occupied, they will lie for hours outside their 
village, in the shade of some convenient tree, sleeping, 
droning songs about their past deeds of prowess, or 
chatting with their companions. In character they 
are proud and quick to resent some fancied wrong 
or injury ; they are generally cheerful, talkative and 
true to their code of honesty ; but in the latter respect 
it must be remembered that what would be bindinsf 
between two Mohammedans is by no means a trust- 
worthy contract between a Mohammedan and an 
infidel. Although in many cases they appear to be 
insolent to a stranger, I believe this to be more of a 
mannerism than a deliberate act. 

If a Somali thinks he is being wronged or 
unfairly treated, he changes from a light-hearted, 

144 




Somali Cattle 

All the cattle belonging to the Somali are of the native shorthorn breed common through- 
out East Africa. The meat is excellent, and the cows give plenty of milk, when the grazing 
is good. The general colour is pale brown or cream. 




So^[ALI Warriors, preparing for a Dance 

Notice the bright striped cloths worn by the youn? warriors, the long thrasiing spears and 

the turbans. 



THE WEALTH OF THE SOMALI 

willing and obedient native into a sullen, dangerous 
and treacherous enemy, and his undoubted intelli- 
gence and courage, coupled with his powers of 
endurance and knowledge of the bush, render him 
a truly formidable antagonist. 

As I have already mentioned, the wealth of a 
Somali is estimated by the amount of live stock he 
possesses. The latter consists of camels, cattle, goats 
and sheep. Camels are not bred much south of the 
Lak Dera, but round Wajheir and Eil Wak there 
are enormous herds. I shall deal with them in 
another chapter ; and so, therefore, I need not refer 
to them at greater length here. Nor is there much 
to be said of the cattle, for they belong to the well- 
known shorthorn breed of native cattle common 
throughout East Africa. While the grazing is good 
the cows give plenty of milk, but the necessity of 
continually moving according to the water-supply 
is a serious drawback and keeps the animals from 
getting really fat. 

The sheep, however, are interesting ; they belong 
to a black-headed fat-rumped group, for which Dr. 
Fitzinger proposed the name Ovis pachycerca, be- 
lieving them to be descended from a distinct stock. 
There does not seem to be sufficient justification 
for such an opinion, since their peculiarities may 
well be the results of long domestication. As special 
characteristics of this breed, Mr. R. Lydekker gives 
" the absence or rudimentary condition of the horns 
of the rams ; the excess in length of the lower over 
the upper jaw ; the strongly developed dewlap which 
often extends downwards to the chest : . . . the short 
stumpy tail, which appears as a kind of knob between 
the fatty cushions on the rump ; the short sleek coat 
K 145 



GOATS 

of hair, which is shortest on the face, ears and tail, 
and longest on the underparts. No less distinctive 
is the blackness of the head and the white with a 
tinge of yellow of the body and limbs. . . . The 
rudimentary tail is about a couple of inches in length, 
and the fat masses on the rump weigh about 25 Ib."^ 
The goats are of the usual breed found elsewhere 
in East Africa. In colour they are white, or white 
and brown ; occasionally a black and tan or a com- 
plete brown individual may be seen ; the hair is short, 
and in size and weight they usually exceed the sheep 
with which they are generally herded ; the horns are 
well developed, and the skins valuable for various 
purposes. 

^ TJie Sheep audits Cousins^ R. Lydekker, pp. 204-5. 



146 



CHAPTER XIII 

FURTHER NOTES ON THE SOMALI 

A Somali village, or "rer," as it is called, is com- 
posed of a number of huts shaped like a beehive 
(gurgi), surrounded by a thorn fence, or " zariba." 
The centre of the enclosed space is usually divided 
into a number of divisions or pens, in which the 
sheep and goats are kept during the night. The 
huts, which are wretchedly poor and squalid in 
appearance, are carried from place to place on the 
backs of camels or bullocks, and are erected and 
taken down by the women, while the zariba is 
erected by the men. The gurgi are built by placing 
six or more curved posts in the ground ; the tops 
are tied tightly together, and supported by a heavy 
central pole, and the framework is strengthened by 
cross-pieces tied horizontally ; a small space is left 
for the doorway, to the right of which a shallow 
trench is made for the fire. This is the only means 
of entrance and exit for the inhabitants ; it is the sole 
method of ventilation, and of enabling the smoke to 
escape. The shell of the hut being thus securely 
erected, the whole is covered by a number of mats 
skilfully woven out of grass and the fibre made from 
the smooth outer bark of the " araru " tree, while some- 
times the hide of a bullock is stretched over the top 
and tightly lashed down, in order to make everything 
completely rain- and storm-proof. 

The interior is generally divided into two apart- 

147 



THE "TOBE " 

ments by hanging up another mat, the left-hand side 
forming the sleeping apartment, while the right, which 
contains the fire, is used as the living room. Such, 
at any rate, was my impression of the huts, which I 
had the opportunity of inspecting. The Somali are 
somewhat chary of allowing strangers to enter their 
gurgi, and I therefore offer these observations with 
the utmost diffidence, knowing how easy it is to carry 
away an erroneous idea of the habits and doings of 
natives with whom one has had but a brief acquaintance. 

The Somali, when at home in his village, wears 
the white "tobe," which completely covers his person. 
This is merely a piece of calico (Bufta) of double 
width, and about 8 yards in length. In Jubaland 
a "piece" of cloth is 40 yards, which is cut into 5 
full "lengths," or 8 "half-lengths" ; this is the recog- 
nised standard of exchange, and is the basis of all 
trading. There are three qualities of cloth, Bufta, 
Murduf and Americani, in their respective order of 
value corresponding to what I should call in English, 
calico, twill and common cotton cloth. A list of 
these and other trade goods, together with their 
values in the interior as a medium of exchange and 
what can be obtained in return for them, will be found 
in Appendix C. 

The " tobe " is draped much as the old Romans 
wore their toga ; its appearance, when clean, is very 
graceful and picturesque, and must be extremely com- 
fortable. But when the Somali is travelling, or is on 
the warpath, he modifies his dress accordingly. A 
loin-cloth, either plain or brightly coloured, is then worn 
round the waist, which is supported by a wide belt of 
tanned leather, in which his broad-bladed knife is 
carried. The upper part of his body is covered with 

148 



COIFFURES 

a half-tobe, which is often draped in such a way as 
to conceal his weapons. On his feet he wears 
sandals, made, if possible, from the hide of a giraffe. 

A Somali always prefers to travel at night, when 
practicable, and to rest and sleep during the day. 
But when compelled to march in the heat, he often 
wears his half-tobe as a turban and covering for his 
face combined, and will leave his body from the waist 
upwards uncovered. I often noticed my own men doing 
this, and when we were exposed to the tremendous 
heat experienced in the arid sun-scorched wilderness 
of Arroga and Rama Gudi, they would in addition 
cut branches from a bush, and covering these with an 
old rag or odd piece of sacking, would use them as a 
kind of sunshade. 

The true bush Somali wears his hair long. They 
are not in the habit of bleaching it, as is the fashion 
in northern Somaliland ; they keep it carefully 
anointed with ghee, and generally wear one or two 
hair-combs stuck in it. These are shaped like a 
skewer, but chiefs often wear more elaborate ones 
handsomely carved. The young women wear their 
hair loose, plaited for about half its length and then 
fluffed out. After marriage, however, it is tied into 
a kind of bag of black or blue gauze. Among the 
Aulehan I saw married women with a red cloth 
tied tightly over their hair, although I do not think 
this is a habit confined to that tribe ; but, at any rate, 
it is less common than the usual black cloth. 

The warriors on the march carry, in addition to 
their knife, a round shield made of giraffe hide about 
14 inches in diameter strapped to their left arm, a 
short broad-bladed spear, a wooden pillow on their 
left wrist, a small water-bottle and a "tooth-stick." 

149 



ARMS 

The hunters carry in addition a bow and arrow if 
they have no rifle, a light stick to which is attached 
a bunch of marabou feathers for testing the wind, and 
a hollow stick about 2 feet long by ^ inch in diameter 
for drinking water, when it is situated deep down 
amongst the rocks, or in the hollow of a tree trunk. 
Fastened to the quiver in which they carry their 
arrows are two small bags ; one contains the iron 
arrow-heads, which only fit loosely in the shafts, 
some poison for smearing on them, manufactured 
from an evergreen, locally known as the Wabayu, little 
bits of gut for tying on the feathers, and various odds 
and ends ; the other smaller one contains charms of 
all kinds, some of which may consist of verses of the 
Koran, while others may be merely little bits of cloth, 
a lion's tooth, a rusty nail or similar small objects, 
v/hich they believe will bring them success. 

Very curious was a hook, strangely twisted and 
ornamented, about 3 inches long, made of soft iron, 
which I noticed was carried by most of these hunters. 
I was able to obtain one specimen, but could not elicit 
any information from its owner as to its use. I am 
at a loss to understand what purpose it may serve, 
unless they employ it for roasting meat above the 
fire, in which case it would seem that the natives 
would have had no objection to tell me. 

All implements of iron are made by a certain class 
of dependant known as the Tomal. These men are 
Somali who have married a woman of the Midgan, 
an outcast tribe, whose origin is wrapped in obscurity. 
The Tomal are despised by the Somali, and are 
treated as inferiors, but why they are not allowed to 
possess cattle, with very rare exceptions, and why they 
are compelled to become iron-workers, is a mystery 

150 



LEATHER— SPEARS 

that has not yet been solved. The iron required is 
obtained from the coast through Arab traders, and 
payment is made for it with cattle, hides or ghee. 

The Midgan men themselves tan the leather that 
is required for the manufacture of shields, sandals, 
belts and water-bottles. The skins most prized in 
Jubaland are those of the giraffe {Gii^affa retmdata), 
the rhinoceros, which is very rare, and the oryx beisa. 
In the bulls of the latter species the skin over the 
withers and lower part of the neck is extraordinarily 
thick and tough. This peculiarity in the oryx beisa may 
have been developed as a protection against their sharp 
spear-like horns when they are fighting one another. 

The spears carried by the warriors, of which there 
are a considerable variety, are usually fitted with thin 
strong shafts made from a variety of wood. Some 
are quite ornamental, cut from trees especially selected 
for their fine even grain, and highly polished by 
rubbing in ghee, which imparts a rich dark yellow 
gloss to the surface ; others are fashioned from a kind 
of wood that resembles hickory ; others, again, are 
made of ebony, which is also treated with ghee. The 
latter kind are only carried by those warriors who have 
killed an enemy ; this distinction, which confers upon a 
man the privilege of wearing the " Bal," or feathered 
head-dress, is eagerly sought after, and the young men 
are always on the look-out for the opportunity of gain- 
ing it. Among certain tribes I have been told that a 
man cannot marry until he has thus proved his metal. 

The wooden sleeping-pillows are of a variety of 
shapes, ranging from the pattern with the single leg, 
as carried by the poor man, to that cut out of a solid 
piece of wood, 15 inches in diameter, with six legs, 
which are very rare and only used by men of import- 

151 



DIET 

ance. Mohammed AH, the chief of the Maghabul 
Somali, gave me one of the latter, which was most 
elaborately carved ; it had been treated with ghee, 
and was of a rich red brown colour. The wooden 
ghee spoons are ornamented in a similar fashion ; it is 
usual, though by no means always the case, for a rich 
man to have his cattle brand cut on the back of the 
handle, for a similar reason, I suppose, that a man in 
Europe will have his coat of arms engraved on his silver 
ware. Thus, amongst others, I have in my posses- 
sion spoons which have the following marks on the back 



— TN which are respectively the cattle 



brands of Mohammed Ali and Abdi Aden. 

The Somali in the interior are by force of circum- 
stances abstemious in their habits. Their sole habitual 
diet is milk and ghee : no fruit, no vegetables, seldom 
any rice and rarely flesh, for they will not, if possible, 
kill any of their own stock for food. Yet they are 
inordinately fond of meat, and if a camel falls sick and 
can no longer work, they will cut his throat and cook 
and eat every scrap of flesh. They also boil down 
all the fat, thus making a kind of lard to which they 
are extremely partial. Being strict Mussulmans they 
will not touch alcohol of any kind, not even when ill. 
But they have another kind of drink, peculiar, I believe, 
to Jubaland Somali, called " Buni." It is prepared 
in the following way. The coffee, consisting of the 
entire berry, is first roasted, or, as a matter of fact, fried 
in ghee ; the latter is then poured off into a dish, 
which is handed round to each man, beginning with 
the eldest. In turn they dip their hands in, and 
solemnly rub their faces, head or limbs with the ghee, 
according to their individual taste ; meanwhile, the 

152 



"BUM ' 

berries are boiled in a little water, with which a good 
deal of sugar, if they have any, or honey, has been 
mixed, and more ghee is added. This mixture is 
allowed to simmer over the fire for a few minutes ; it 
is then poured out into one large or several small 
cups, which are handed round, and the sickly mess is 
then sipped with the greatest relish, and the berries 
are eaten. They claim that it possesses marvellous 
properties, that it relieves fatigue and pains of all 
sorts, clears the brain and makes "the heart glad." 
The drinking of buni, involving though it does 
an unbending formality, is invariably observed before 
anything can be discussed, before any dance can be 
begun or any important decision can be taken. 

With discontented Somali it is a good plan to 
provide a quantity of buni ; they will invariably drink 
it, and thus comforted, they will talk their fancied 
wrongs over for hours, perhaps with one of your own 
trusted men, until very often their anger cools, and 
everything can be settled in an amicable manner 
satisfactory to both sides. This coffee therefore formed 
one of the principal and most important items of my 
trade goods, and no traveller should attempt a journey 
into the interior without a plentiful supply of it. 

The Jubaland Somali are very fond of singing and 
dancing, but they neither use nor possess musical 
instruments of any kind, not even the tom-tom, of 
which the Arabs are very fond. They have songs 
suitable for almost every occasion, many of them being 
of a religious nature. Of the latter type perhaps the 
most interesting is the " Song of Thanksgiving," which 
consists of a solo and chorus, rendering praise to 
Allah when water has at last been reached after a 
long and dangerous march. 

153 



THE CAMEL 

The stern faces of the men, upon which the hard- 
ships and poverty of their daily hfe and the ever- 
present dangers to which they are exposed have im- 
printed an indeHble mark, the real gratitude to Allah, 
the All Powerful, Who Alone knows what is best for 
His children, expressed in their voices, and the circum- 
stances in which it is sung, all combine to form a 
picture that is at once solemn and impressive. 

Somewhat cruel by nature, the Somali is lavish 
of kindness and affection to his camel ; it forms the 
subject of innumerable songs, in which one man 
addresses the camel, while the rest answer for him, 
thus carrying on a kind of running conversation. 
As soon as I would give the order to halt and 
unload, the syces would begin singing, " Aurki 
dalai ! " (" My camel is tired ! "), to which the men who 
were helping would cry out in answer for the camel, 
" Dika so dig!" ("Then place it {i.e. the load) on 
the ground ! "). And this would be repeated in end- 
less iteration until the camels were unloaded. In the 
same way in the mornings I have often eaten my 
breakfast to the sound of my head syce singing, 
" Wa fa liligo ! " (" Pick up the load ! "), to which the 
men would roar out in chorus a line, which I never quite 
caught, meaning, " Then tie it on tight ! " And there 
are a number of variations on the same theme. It 
was always pleasant to listen, as I knew my men 
were happy and contented. I never forbade them 
to sing, unless circumstances demanded it, as, for 
instance, when we were in the Aulehan country, and 
were expecting an attack. And I tried to allow 
them as much liberty and freedom as when travelling 
by themselves, so long as this was compatible with 
obedience and discipline, for there must be much 

154 



A WAR DANCE 

that is irksome and trying in a long journey. And 
I think they appreciated my attitude towards them, 
for they showed unquestioning obedience to my 
sHghtest command, and helped me in every way to 
the best of their ability, by combining to help each 
other in their respective work. I will give one 
illustration of the kind feeling and thoughtfulness 
they will show if well treated. Smoking is one of 
their few luxuries. Yet when I had finished my 
tobacco, and the men heard of it, one of my syces, 
whom I had recently lightly punished for some 
trivial offence, went round and collected a little of 
the precious weed from each, and then came up 
and presented it to me, in such a way that it was 
impossible to refuse. 

Their favourite dance is the war dance. Ten 
or twelve men, fully armed with spear, shield and 
knife, and wearing their sandals, gather together 
round an ox-hide, which is stretched in the centre 
of the dancing-place. The rest of the spectators 
form a hollow square around them, while farther 
back the women stand on the outermost edge of the 
ring. At a given signal the warriors begin singing 
and then dancing in -a circle, at first slowly, but 
gradually faster and faster. From time to time one 
of them will rush towards their chief, leaping high 
in the air, brandishing his spear and saluting, while 
the others all stamp together upon the ox-hide. They 
gradually work themselves into a perfect frenzy of 
excitement ; the spectators join in the songs, keeping- 
time by stamping on the hard ground, while above 
the uproar can be heard the thin shrill cries of the 
women, voicing their approval. 

Chiefs of tribes are buried with some ceremony. 

155 



THE BONI 

Their followers build hug-e mounds of earth about 
20 feet high above their graves, and they then 
surround it with a strongly built fence, made of logs 
of wood placed horizontally between heavy upright 
posts. 

No account of the inhabitants of Jubaland would 
be complete without a reference to that interesting 
and little-known tribe, the Boni. These strange 
people originally inhabited the southern regions of 
Abyssinia, whence they have made their way south- 
west into the district of Arnoleh in Jubaland. They 
are hardly a thousand in all, and their numbers are 
fast diminishing, so that in a few years they will 
probably have disappeared completely, or have 
become merged among the Somali. They live in 
subjection to the latter, unmolested so long as they 
pay a tribute of one tusk from every elephant killed. 
Under this agreement they are allowed to hunt 
where they wish. By some the Waboni are believed 
to be the original inhabitants of this part of British 
East Africa. At any rate, they depend entirely on 
hunting for their food, as do the Wandorobo of 
the Kenya country. Their knowledge of bush-craft 
is perfectly astonishing, and as hunters and trackers 
I have never seen their equals. They have been 
much harassed and persecuted by the young Somali, 
and are consequently very shy and suspicious of 
strangers, preferring to make their homes in the 
most impenetrable bush, in which they immediately 
take refuge at the slightest sign of danger. 

According to Captain R. E. Salkeld, who has 
spent twelve years in Jubaland, many of the Waboni 
are the property of a private individual of a Somali 
tribe, and I was warned that should I engage a 

156 





Somali Ghee Spoons 



The Back of the Handle of a 
Ghee Spoon 

Showing the owner's cattle brand carved in the 
wood. 



Threk different styles of Hair 
Combs 

As used by the Ogaden Somali. 




A remarkable Wooden Sleeping 
Pillow 

Cut from a single block of wood. It was made 
especially for Mohammed Ali, the Sultan of the 
Maghabul tribe, and was given to me by him. 



ADMINISTRATION 

Boni guide it would be inadvisable to take him out 
of the tribal district. Their marriage customs are 
simple, and depend upon whether the man can 
provide sufficient cloth to satisfy the girl's father. 
If he can, she immediately becomes his wife. The 
Boni language, according to Mr. F. Elliott, is at 
present unwritten, but resembles Somali to a certain 
degree, though the differences are too great for 
mutual understanding. 

The administration of the natives in Jubaland 
represents an extremely difficult problem. The chiefs 
of the tribes naturally profess friendship, since the 
Government pays them a monthly salary of from 
Rs. 65 to Rs. 75, and supplies them with a few 
rifles and cartridges. Whenever their followers 
openly disobey, and the chiefs' pay is stopped 
temporarily in consequence, they put all the blame 
on the young men, saying the latter have acted 
without their knowledge, and so the affair is smoothed 
over. The interior of the country, especially in the 
south, is unknown and unsafe, and will be for some 
time no doubt. 

This state of affairs Is, of course, very unsatis- 
factory, but no blame can be attached to the officials, 
for they are handicapped by lack of men and money, 
and are hampered by red tape. There are two main 
difficulties that face the administration. When it 
is necessary to punish offenders it is exceedingly 
difficult to find them, inasmuch as being nomads, 
the natives wander widely through an unknown 
country ; secondly, since there are no roads, and the 
bush is generally very dense, it is far too risky to 
send out a small expedition, while the expense of a 
large one is too heavy. Therefore the offenders, 

157 



TRADE 

as in the case of the murderers of the late Mr. 
A. C. W. Jenner, go generally unpunished. It must 
be remembered that one thing the Government 
cannot afford is a reverse, for anything that would 
tend to lower our prestige further would be absolutely 
disastrous. It has been brought too low already 
by the way we have acted in the Somaliland 
Protectorate. 

Now I believe there is only one factor that will 
solve the problem which the administration of 
Jubaland presents, and that is trade. The Somali 
are quite intelligent enough to realise the value of 
trade, indeed, they are beginning to do so, and have 
already grasped the value of money. They possess 
enormous herds of cattle, goats and sheep, and they 
need rice, maize, cloth and iron. But before this 
trade can be developed the country must be opened 
out, and, if possible, the natives must settle down in 
their respective districts. In other chapters I have 
indicated all the main water-holes and swamps, which 
are at present semi-permanent, and which if cleared, 
and in some cases deepened, could be made into 
permanent reservoirs at a low cost. If this were 
done and the native trails cleared and broadened into 
roads, the natives would settle down permanently 
round the reservoirs, only too glad to be rid of the 
constant anxiety as regards a sufficient water-supply 
for themselves and their cattle. At these points 
police posts could gradually be instituted, and the 
roads would not only be invaluable for police patrols 
and for enabling the officials to move from one place 
to another, but would give a very real impetus to 
trade, the value of which, for purposes of civilisation, 
cannot be overestimated. 

158 



CHAPTER XIV 

THE DISCOVERY OF GULOLA SWAMP 

Mohammed Ali paid me another visit on the morning 
after our last interview. In addition to the presents 
he had already given me, he brought more milk, 
and on this occasion a sheep also. It is, of course, 
customary to give, in return, trade goods that some- 
what exceed in value the presents received ; these 
gifts become sometimes rather embarrassing if one's 
stock of trade goods is limited. In this case, however, 
I was rather pleased than otherwise, as my men were 
delighted with the milk, and mutton was a pleasant 
change from the tough, stringy meat of the wild 
animals I had shot. 

He did not, however, bring me very encouraging 
news. Nobody in his village knew the country 
between Gulola and Lorian, and the best, therefore, 
that he could do was to provide me with two men 
who would take me as far as Jeldez, a well-known 
water-hole on the old Galla trail that led between 
Afmadu and the Lorian to the south of the Lak 
Dera. I was most disappointed, as, from what Abdi 
Aden led me to believe, I had been counting on 
Mohammed Ali to provide me with guides, and I 
did not at all relish the thought of leading my men 
through an unknown country with no idea of the 
number or position of the water-holes. Existing 
maps were useless, the country hereabouts being only 

159 



VARIOUS PROBLEMS 

represented on them by blank spaces, and the position 
of the Lorian Swamp varied on the different sheets 
by nearly one degree ! 

For the benefit of those who have not had the 
privilege, shall I say, of travelling through such a 
country as Jubaland, I will point out the various 
problems that face the leader of an expedition. The 
country is generally unknown, pathless and, in many 
districts, waterless. Frequently it is so thick with 
bush that it appears almost impossible to cut a way 
through. It is a well-known fact that in the interior 
the natives are unfriendly towards the white man 
and are notoriously treacherous. The only possible 
method of progress is to travel from water-hole to 
water-hole, which lie perhaps sixty or even a hundred 
miles apart. After a series of exhausting and trying 
marches, beset with every kind of difficulty and 
hardship, a water-hole is reached, and found perhaps 
to be dry. By this time the water-tanks are three- 
parts empty, and the men are almost certainly dis- 
couraged and discontented, owing to the enormous 
amount of work they have had to perform in cutting 
a path through the bush ; moreover, they are probably 
ill at ease and nervous, for there is always the 
possibility of an attack by a party of young Somali 
warriors, anxious to qualify for the privilege of 
wearing the " Bal," and carrying the black-shafted 
spear, the special insignia of those who have killed 
an enemy. The next water-hole is perhaps another 
fifty or sixty miles ahead. Only two courses are 
now open, either to retrace one's steps or to go on 
in the hope of finding water at the next place. If 
the latter plan is followed, and the water-hole again 
proves to be dry, both the traveller and his men 

1 60 



A MARKET 

must inevitably die of thirst. In deciding which 
course to pursue, the leader cannot help remembering 
that his men trust in him with implicit confidence 
to bring them back safely home. 

Such are the problems that face the traveller 
every day in Jubaland ; and at Gulola I was con- 
fronted with them in a particularly aggravated form. 
For as I have said I could obtain no guides, I was 
ignorant of the position and number of the water-holes, 
or even if there were any at all, and I knew that the 
Mohammed Zubheir and the Talamuga Somali were 
at war. At all times turbulent and insubordinate, a 
party of their warriors would be now even more 
dangerous to encounter than at other times, whether 
they were elated by victory or embittered by defeat. 
But I had set my heart on reaching the Lorian, so 
after considering the question of success very carefully, 
I decided to go on. 

After Mohammed Ali had left me I sent word 
down to the "rer" (village) to say that I wished to 
hold a market that afternoon, at which I desired 
chiefly to buy ghee for my men, that I would pay in 
the form of trade goods preferred by the seller, and 
that my stock would be exposed to view before my 
tent. At first no one would come, but at length a 
very aged woman, wrinkled and bent beyond belief, 
came in carrying a little ghee in a pot. After naming 
her price, the headman gave her the choice of a 
corresponding value of cloth, coffee, beads, "tusbah" 
(rosaries), perfumes or tobacco. She hesitated for a 
long time, muttering to herself the while, but finally 
chose a brightly coloured loin-cloth, of the kind worn 
by young warriors, and amidst shouts of laughter 
from my men, retired to the village clutching it to 
L i6i 



A PICTURESQUE SCENE 

her shrivelled breast. Then others came, some 
young, some old, with their little babies tied in bags 
upon their back or clinging to their skirts (such as 
they had !), and soon I had bought all the ghee I 
needed. 

It was a scene of bustle and activity. Trading 
went on briskly and I bought amongst other things 
wooden pillows, ghee spoons, hair combs and other 
small objects that are commonly used by the Somali. 
Everyone was in the best of tempers, jokes were 
bandied about, and peals of laughter rang out 
continuously. Old men and women were moving 
slowly through the crowd, the traces left by the 
hardships and poverty of their daily lives showing 
clearly in their bent forms and wrinkled faces ; young 
girls, with curiously dressed hair, clothed in the loose 
white robes which emphasised rather than concealed 
the lithe beauty of their graceful forms, held by the 
hand tiny little boys with shaven heads, whose small 
brown bodies were innocent of clothes ; they wandered 
round together, gazing with awe and wonder at my 
tent and my belongings within. Having satisfied 
their curiosity, they began to return to their village, 
and when the sun was sinking and the time for prayer 
was at hand, they were all gone, and my camp 
resumed its normal aspect. 

Mahommed Ali visited me after supper on the 
evening previous to my departure and said he would 
accompany me himself to Jeldez, so that no one might 
say afterwards that he had not done his best to help 
the first white man who had been willino- to visit his 
country. I took this opportunity of giving him my 
present, consisting of cloths, silks, perfumes and 
buni, with which he seemed very pleased. When 

162 



FAME AS A DOCTOR 

thanking me he said, with the charming exaggeration 
of the Oriental, that he would have been equally 
gratified with much less, for a gift is soon forgotten, 
but that the pleasure his acquaintance with me had 
given him, and the pride he felt in having entertained 
me, would never fade from his memory ! 

Although my relations with the natives had made 
my stay at Gulola a very pleasant one, the camp itself 
was an unhealthy one, owing to the swampy nature 
of the soil and its low-lying situation. I had a great 
deal of malaria to deal with among my men, and I 
was also suffering myself from a slight return of 
dysentery. Having been rather successful in dealing 
with the ailments of my own men, my fame as a 
doctor was spread abroad in the village and daily 
many cases were brought to me for treatment ! On 
one occasion a man, whom I had cured of a very mild 
form of ophthalmia, came up and asked me for some 
medicine for his mother. In reply to my questions 
as to the symptoms of her illness, he answered that 
she was growing very old, and he seemed very 
disappointed when I told him that this was a malady 
beyond my power to cure ! 

At last however, one morning, I left Gulola at 
sunrise, leading the way with one guide, while 
Mahommed Ali followed with the camels, accompanied 
by his "body-guard." The latter was an extremely 
minute individual, not five feet in height, but very 
sturdily built ; he was a Galla slave captured 
in war, but was now a freeman, though he still 
worked for Mahommed Ali in return for his food. 
He carried an ancient French rifle (a Fusil Gras 
model 1873) and two cartridges. During the 
three days that he accompanied my caravan he was 

163 



SWAMPY LAND 

never parted from those cartridges ; they were always 
somewhere about his person — in his hair, behind his 
ears or in his mouth. 

We marched to the north-east at first through the 
open bush. There was no trail, and we were often 
up to our knees in the mud ; for the whole place is 
like a swamp, for there is not sufficient slope to carry 
the water off. But I was told that for the last two 
years there had been no rain, and as the country is 
chiefly sandy and the feed poor, it is generally 
uninhabited, except after a good rainy season. As 
regards the Bisahu Hamu, marked on almost every 
map as an important swamp, its name is unknown to 
the natives, but north of Bussa Berora, about twenty- 
five miles north-east of Gulola, there is a large plain 
covered with coarse grass that no doubt becomes 
swampy during the rains, but it cannot be relied on 
even as a temporary water-hole. We soon reached a 
ofood trail runnino; east and west. This is the native 
trail that runs between Hadamamel Dabassa and 
Gulola Swamp. The former place is an important 
water-hole situated immediately to the south of the 
Lak Guran, twenty-three miles due east of Gonia- 
iddu. We followed this path going westwards, 
though not without difficulty, for the camels were 
continually slipping in the mud, and were compelled 
to walk very slowly. The country, however, was 
lovely ; giant acacias stretched out their spreading 
branches towards each other, enshrouding the under- 
growth in perpetual shade, while dense tropical 
vegetation overran everything, dripping in airy 
festoons from the trees above, and running riot over 
the earth beneath. A profound silence reigned, 
unbroken save for the occasional "tap-tap" of a 

164 



GULOLA SWAMP 

woodpecker, or the whistle of some frightened dik- 
dik. 

Two hours later I reached Gulola Swamp. This 
important water-hole is situated just south of the 
Equator, some seven miles north-west of Gulola 
village. It is roughly circular in shape, and about 
twelve miles in circumference ; and, although sur- 
rounded by almost impenetrable jungle, the centre is 
open and I should imagine very deep, for the bottom 
slopes sharply down from the edge of the swamp. 
After a plentiful rainy season, this pool lasts through- 
out the year, and would amply suffice to water several 
thousand head of cattle during that time. But it 
has been known to dry up, with disastrous results 
to the Somali and their cattle, who were dependent 
on it. 

Two years previously it had failed, and the heaps 
of dried and whitening bones that lay in its immediate 
vicinity bore eloquent testimony to the tragedy that 
ensued. I do not think that it would be either a 
difficult or costly enterprise to clear and deepen the 
pool sufficiently to make it a permanent reservoir. 
If this were done it would prove an inestimable boon 
to the natives. As I was examining the swamp, the 
camels overtook me and passed on to the northwards. 
I followed them an hour afterwards, marching at a 
good pace along the trail which they had made. 

On leaving Gulola Swamp the whole aspect of 
the country changed with startling abruptness, and 
became arid in the extreme. The ground was 
sandy, and the bush seemed to grow denser and more 
impenetrable as we proceeded. The overhanging 
branches, though they clung to my clothes and tore 
them, afforded no shade, while the loose nature of the 

165 



A SURPRISE 

soil made walking slow and exhausting. At ten o'clock, 
according to my observations, I crossed the Equator. 
From that time until I passed again to the south, near 
Meru, I remained on the north side of it, but at no 
time during my journey was I more than a degree of 
latitude from it, except for a brief period in the 
Lorian district. At noon I came up with my " safari " 
resting in a little clearing ; my chair and table were 
in the scanty shade of a mimosa tree and my lunch 
was ready not long after. After I finished it I told 
my headman to start with the camels at 1.30 and not 
to disturb me. Then lying down on my saddle 
blankets with my head on the saddle, I was soon fast 
asleep and did not wake again till nearly three o'clock. 
We were quickly off again, and I caught up and 
passed the camels two hours later. 

Towards sunset I reached a small pool, much to 
our general surprise, and I decided to camp near by, 
havino- covered about eip"hteen miles since leaving^ 
Gulola village. A warm bath greatly refreshed me, 
and after dinner I plotted the day's work on my 
plane table sheet. By marching clue north from 
Gulola to Jeldez and thence to the Lak Dera, I hoped 
to traverse a country that would be interesting 
geographically. I had questioned the natives care- 
fully about the district lying in a direct line between 
Lorian and Gulola, and they all agreed in saying 
that it was a "bad" country, waterless and unin- 
habited, and the bush so dense that it would be 
impossible to take camels through it. It is known 
to them under the name of Rama Gudi, which means 
" wilderness." 

We were on our way very early the next morning ; 
the air was terribly oppressive although the sky was 

166 



HUNTING-DOGS 

clear, and the bush grew even more arid, if possible, 
as we advanced. It was darker in colour and entirely 
leafless as though it had been killed by a hard frost ! 
It gave the country a most curious aspect, while to 
add interest to the scene, there was evidence every- 
where of a large herd of elephants having passed but 
a few days ago ; in fact the trail we were following 
was but an old elephant track. The ground was 
strewn with chewed bark and leaves, great' branches 
had been broken off, small trees had been uprooted, 
while on every side the imprints of their huge feet 
could be seen in the sand. 

I was deeply absorbed in noticing these things 
and in unravelling the story they told, when suddenly 
in front of me I heard the loud barking of dogs. I 
was so surprised I could not imagine what it could 
be, but, jumping off my mule, I took my rifle, and 
kneeling down, peered through the bush in the 
direction from which the sounds were coming. So 
dense was the undergrowth I could not make out 
anything at first, but suddenly saw three dark forms 
moving through the scrub. Before I could raise my 
rifle they had disappeared, and though I found and 
followed their spoor, they easily made their escape. 
Their barking gradually grew fainter and then died 
away in the distance, and silence fell once more upon 
the trackless jungle. From the glimpse I had of 
them, I knew that they were hunting-dogs, but what 
they were doing in a country so destitute of game as 
this I am quite unable to say. These interesting but 
unattractive animals stand about 20 to 23 inches 
at the shoulder, and resemble vaguely the spotted 
hyaena in coloration and general appearance. They 
differ from wolves and foxes in having only four toes 

167 



TERRIBLE HEAT 

on the front as well as on the hind feet, and their coat 
irregularly spotted with tan or white patches. 

Naturalists recognise six races based on the 
apparently constant variation of colour in the different 
localities in which they are found, and those I saw 
probably belonged to the race known as Lycaon 
picttcs hipimts, a name proposed by Mr. O. Thomas 
for the hunting-dogs inhabiting East Africa, whose 
special characteristics are their dark colouring and 
the small number of yellow spots. The race in- 
habiting Somaliland is known as L. pictus somalicus, 
and is a smaller animal, with shorter coat and less 
powerful teeth. Packs of hunting-dogs soon clear 
the game out of any locality, and since they depend 
on antelope for their food, they do not long remain in 
one spot. They are generally to be found in the 
bush and are rarely seen on the open plains. It has 
been stated that they will readily attack a human 
being, but I have never heard of any authentic 
instance. I was sorry I was unable to obtain a speci- 
men, but I saw that it was useless to pursue them 
further, and so returned to the trail and continued 
the march. 

The sun Avas now blazing down from a cloudless 
sky, everything was burning to the touch, and the 
glare exceedingly trying to the eyes. At noon I 
called a halt, and lay down beneath a thorn bush, 
over which I spread my saddle blankets to keep off 
the sun which was pouring through the leafless 
branches, and soon, in spite of countless small ants, I 
went fast to sleep. When I awoke an hour later 
the cook had ready the wing of a guinea-fowl, which 
I had shot that morning near Gulola Swamp. After 
an excellent meal I gave the order to load up, and 

i68 



JELDEZ 

just before two o'clock we were on our way once 
more. As I stepped out from my little patch of 
shade the sun almost seemed to strike me a physical 
blow, and the ground was so hot that it was really 
painful to the feet even through thick boots ; more- 
over, the sand rose in little clouds as we walked, 
hanging above us like a copper-coloured mist, stirred 
now and again by gusts of wind which, instead of 
bringing freshness to the burning air, only seemed 
to intensify the dreadful heat. The bush clutched at 
my clothes as though it had a thousand hands, or 
tripped me up as I walked, for the trail was so 
obstructed that it was impossible to ride. Faintly 
behind me I heard the chop, chop of the axes, as the 
men cleared the worst places for the camels, or the 
swish and breaking of the branches as the poor 
brutes forced their way through. We walked on in 
silence, save once, when I saw some guinea-fowl, and 
brought one down as they rose above the bush. 

A little later, very unexpectedly, we came upon a 
little pool of rain-water — very stagnant and green, it 
is true, but still water. While I was waiting here 
for the camels to overtake us, the clouds gathered, 
and there was a short shower, followed later by two 
more. This only served to accentuate our dis- 
comforts, and, rather depressed and in silence, we went 
on again still to the north, towards Jeldez ; the men 
were exhausted by the hard work, and cursed the 
climate and the country to which I had brought them. 
At last, when I had almost given up hope of reaching 
our destination before dark, we arrived at a clearing 
in the bush in which Jeldez lay, but to our dismay 
found it dry. I had plenty of water with me for 
a couple of days, but I decided to camp here tem- 

169 



A HONEY-BIRD 

porarily, and send back the camels in the morning to 
fill up at the last pool, for it would have been madness 
to go into the unknown country that lay beyond with- 
out the ten water-tanks being full of water. 

While I was waiting for the arrival of the rest of 
the " Safari," I noticed a little bird sitting on a bush 
close by and twittering incessantly. The guide 
whistled in answer and off it fluttered a little way, 
looking back at us all the time. This manoeuvre 
was repeated, until it led us to a dead stump of a tree 
in which I found some honey. Taking the greater 
part of it for myself, I left the rest for this intelligent 
little creature. It was the well-known honey-bird, 
and several times on my journey I was able to procure 
honey in this way. The Somali are very fond of this 
bird, and will not molest it under any circumstances. 
They assert that it also leads them occasionally to 
an elephant who has died in the bush, but, person- 
ally, I have never had this experience. When I 
got back to camp, I found that the camels had already 
arrived, and were being unloaded to the accompani- 
ment of the usual songs. 



170 



CHAPTER XV 

INTO THE UNKNOWN 

As it turned out I was delayed at Jeldez for three 
days, because I thought it advisable to send men 
forward to see if they could find water ahead, for I 
was now about to enter an absolutely unknown 
stretch of country without a single guide. Mahomed 
Aii, his slave and his companion, returned to their 
village, for they said, in an interview which I had 
with them the day before, that although they were 
willing and anxious to help me in every way, they 
did not know the country which lay to the west at all 
well, and they were afraid that if the next two 
marches should prove waterless, they would be unable 
to return, unless I gave them camels, on which they 
could carry water. These I could not spare, for of 
the eighteen with which I started, one had died at 
Jana Nyeri, one had been left at Gulola with an 
abscess in his foot, and another was very ill with 
what the natives called "camel sickness," so that I 
had only sufficient for my own needs. 

Jeldez is a well-known water-hole situated on the 
old Galla trail between Afmadu and Lorian. This 
bush-path has been completely abandoned by the 
Somali, who prefer to travel along the north bank 
of the Lak Dera, where water - holes are more 
numerous and the country less inhospitable. As I 
have said, it was dry when I arrived, so I had to 

171 



A DOUBLE RAINBOW 

send back to a rain-pool I had passed some fifteen 
miles to the south, which a local thunderstorm had 
luckily filled, in order to obtain any water at all. It 
was small in quantity and unpleasant in quality, but 
we were glad enough to get any. This rendered it 
imperative that we should leave Jeldez as soon as 
possible, in order to reach a more plentiful water- 
supply. 

Jeldez itself is a circular depression, about 300 
yards in diameter, surrounded on all sides by very 
dense bush, and on the north also by some large 
acacia trees. The soil is sandy, and in the centre a 
well has been dug, now fallen into disuse, about 
12 feet deep. The floor of the well was damp, but 
though I dug 3 feet deeper no water could be 
obtained. In spite of the sandy covering the ground 
below was extremely hard, so hard indeed that it was 
impossible to drive the tent-pegs in, so that in order 
to pitch my tent I was compelled to tie the guy-ropes 
to the water-tanks, which were placed in line, three 
on each side. 

On the day after my arrival there was a heavy 
storm in the north, and as it drew to a close there 
was a most beautiful double rainbow, so vivid in 
colouring that I was able to take a photograph of it. 
In the evening the men I had sent forward returned, 
bringing bad news, for although they had walked for 
six hours along the trail they had found no water. 
This was indeed serious, especially as it was too 
hot to march during the day. So on the following 
morning I decided to send back five camels to fill 
up the water-tanks at the last rain-pool, since it was 
not safe to proceed without a maximum supply of 
water. While they were away, I was busily engaged 

172 



AN ANNOYING OCCURRENCE 

in fixing the position of Jeldez on my map, and in 
exploring the country around. Some twenty-five 
miles to the N.E. there is a large and semi-permanent 
water-hole known as Tubtu, but otherwise the country 
is arid in the extreme and covered for the most part 
with " wait-a-bit " thorn and similar scrub. According- 
to the map the Lak Dera was about fifty miles away to 
the N.W., and I hoped to find water there, as during 
the last week I had noticed thunderstorms almost 
every evening in that direction. My plan was to 
start in the afternoon from Jeldez and march all 
through the night, and longer if necessary, unless we 
reached water before. 

A most annoying occurrence prevented me from 
starting on the following day, as I had arranged. 
The syce, whom I had sent back in charge of the 
camels, returned without water, saying that the little 
pool, where they had filled up on the previous day, 
was dry. He had not had the sense, or rather he 
had been too lazy, to go on and search further. So 
I was compelled to send them back again, as it was 
essential that the tanks should be full before we 
started. This time the syces went in charge of an 
askari, and I forbade them to come back without 
water, even if it was necessary for them to march all 
through the night. 

The rest of the day passed pleasantly enough, 
although I did not leave camp ; but I was very busy 
writing up my notes, and, having taken a whole series 
of observations, I worked them out, including some 
taken at Gulola which I had not finished. I was 
very much gratified with the results, and carefully 
locked the papers away in my box, in order that they 
might be checked when I returned to civilisation. 

173 



THE THERMOMETER 

Having completed this work I inspected the trophies, 
both horns and skins, and found them in excellent 
condition. All this took up the larger part of the 
day, but after a cup of tea at four o'clock, I took my 
pipe and a book of Oscar Wilde's poems and went 
out in search of a shady bush. Having found one I 
lay down on the soft, warm sand, and read and 
smoked in luxurious comfort until dark. It was 
delightfully refreshing to turn one's thoughts to some- 
thing so essentially different, so totally unlike and 
so far removed from the life which I had been leading, 
and I thoroughly enjoyed reading " Humanitad," 
" Panthea " and some of the charming short poems 
over again. 

The heat had been very great, and all through 
that day the mercury in my thermometer stood well 
over 1 00°, and in the early afternoon reached its 
maximum height of 116°. I should not like to say 
what the temperature was in the sun, but at noon, 
when I went out to take an observation for latitude, 
the barrel of the telescope on my theodolite was so 
hot that it was almost impossible to touch it. Just 
before nightfall I went out in the bush and shot a 
couple of doves, very luckily for me, since I had 
nothing for supper, but what they were doing so far 
from water I cannot imagine. 

The camels returned just before midnight with all 
the tins full. The following morning was occupied 
in getting everything in order. All that was not 
absolutely necessary was thrown away, ropes, girths 
and saddles were tested and overhauled, while the 
loads were carefully tied up into bundles of approxi- 
mately equal weight. During my stay at jeldez the 
camels had fed well and seemed rested and in good 

174 



A BAD PATCH OF SCRUB 

form. It is essential, if one wishes to travel far with 
a minimum of discomfort, that everything should be 
done to lighten their work, and now, by a careful 
distribution of the weights, and by discarding all 
but essentials, I managed to reduce their loads to 
something under 250 lb. each. And I believe it was 
owing to this careful preparation, and consideration 
for the welfare of the camels, that I was enabled to 
accomplish successfully the journey between Jeldez 
and Lorian, in the face of difficulties and dangers 
which no one can realise unless he has had some 
experience of travelling in the interior of Jubaland. 

We left Jeldez shortly after three o'clock, in spite 
of the terrific heat, marching along an old trail which 
led directly towards the west. Almost immediately 
we entered the worst patch of scrub it had yet been 
my misfortune to encounter. Riding was out of the 
question, so I walked, and shuddered as I thought of 
what was going to happen to the loads on the camels, 
for the scrub consisted almost entirely of wait-a-bit, 
whose small crooked thorns cut through my clothes 
like knives, and I foresaw that they would tear the 
gunny sack coverings of the loads to pieces. As the 
sun sank behind heavy storm-clouds, we reached a 
rather more open country, the two hurricane lamps 
were lighted, and we proceeded at a good pace. It 
would be impossible to imagine a more hopeless and 
desolate piece of country than that through which I 
had been travelling for these last few days ; the soft, 
sandy soil, the low, leafless scrub, and the stunted, 
blackened mimosa, with which it is covered, only serve 
to emphasise the aridity of the country and represent 
another kind of desert common in East Africa, but 
havinof but little charm either of colour or of outline. 

175 



A CURIOUS MARCH 

It was a curious march. The men were depressed, 
the going heavy, and the night air hot and oppressive, 
so that we were all perspiring freely. There was 
hardly a sound to break the silence, save when we 
brushed past some bush, or when a frightened bird 
rose in alarm at our feet. All other sounds were 
muffled by the soft sand through which we walked 
and which rose in little clouds that looked like mist in 
the lamplight as we hurried along. Twice we passed 
what I imagine to have been small plains where there 
had been surface water ; and here the tracks of 
elephants were very numerous, all going westward, 
which seemed to show that they travelled from Guran- 
lag-^a to the Lorian durino^ the rains. Hour after 
hour passed by, until at midnight I took a short rest, 
drank some of the tea in my water-bottle, and ate 
some bread which I had brought with me. The chill 
I had caught at Gulola had not yet left me, and the 
dull pains on my right side and back made this march 
particularly trying. 

After half an hour thus spent I marched on again, 
the camels having by now caught us up. On and on 
we went, and I think I must have been dozing on my 
mule, as I do not remember much more until a sharp 
exclamation from my headman woke me with a start. 
Curious sounds were coming from my left. What 
they were, at first I could not make out, then it 
dawned upon me. Frogs ! And therefore water ! 
We all rushed forward, and sure enough found a large 
pool surrounded by trees. Everybody was hugely 
delighted ; the news that I had found water revived 
everybody, and spread down the line like wildfire. 
Even the camels seemed to be imbued with the 
excitement and came in at a fine pace, their syces 

176 



CAMEL SICKNESS 

whistling and singing in a most cheerful manner. 
Here I decided to camp and, when light broke, to 
send on two men to find the road which led westwards 
towards the Lak Dera. We had marched since 
leaving Jeldez for ten and a half hours and had 
covered twenty miles, which was not bad considering 
the character of the country we had traversed. My 
tent was soon pitched and a hot bath was prepared 
for me, which I thoroughly enjoyed before turning in. 
The camel which was so ill at Jeldez, had been 
gradually growing worse, and on reaching this water- 
hole, which is known to the natives by the name of 
Robleh ("containing rain-water"), he lay down and 
refused to move, although he had carried no load 
during the night. As he was obviously dying and in 
agony, I had him killed. Shortly afterwards I saw 
the Somali lining up before my tent, and on asking 
what they wanted they asked me if I would let them 
eat the camel ! I was so disgusted at first that I 
refused, but when they said that they would accept 
it instead of four days' rations (120 lb. of rice), I 
could say no more, especially as I had lost a quarter 
of a load of rice through one of the sacks giving way 
during the night. They immediately set about cutting 
the camel up and smoking the flesh, and boiling down 
the fat into a kind of lard, which they use in their 
cooking in the same way as ghee. An absolute orgy 
ensued ; the men stuffed themselves with half-cooked 
meat, gnawed the bones till they were clean, and then 
chopping them open, sucked the marrow out. It was 
a most revolting sight, but I had no choice but to let 
it go on. Only the Swahili refused to touch it, which 
was rather a surprise after the filth I have seen 
them eat. 

M 177 



A LEOPARD AND GIRAFFE 

I spent two days here working and hunting, but 
all game was very scarce, and I saw nothing but dik- 
dik. Of these I shot two, which provided me with 
food for two days. While hunting them I came 
across a young giraffe only a few days old that had 
been killed by a leopard a few minutes before. The 
tracks and marks of the struggle told the story very 
plainly. The leopard had jumped out from a bush 
and chased the giraffe for about 20 yards, when, 
springing forward, it had caught the helpless animal 
by the neck and choked it to death. It had then 
either gone off to call its family to join in the meal, 
or more probably had heard me coming and made its 
escape. The giraffe proved to be a young bull, very 
pale in colour, buff rather than chocolate, and in the 
centre of the dark patches there were numerous white 
hairs. I had noticed that the cows are always lighter 
in colour than the bulls, but I did not see a sufficient 
number of calves to be able to say whether this pale 
tint is usual, and characteristic of young animals. I 
had it carried back into camp and skinned. On 
examinino; the skull I found that the two horns on 
the forehead were just noticeable, but otherwise it 
presented no unusual features of interest. 

My headman, who was born in Jubaland, said 
that he thought there was another water-hole called 
Liboyi some 20 miles to the westward, and it was 
in the hope of finding it that we started shortly 
after midnight on the third day after my arrival at 
Robleh. We marched along a very dim trail by 
lamplight in silence, for we were all beginning to 
feel the effects of hard work and bad food. But as 
the light grew I noticed that we had entered a more 
open bush country, and a little later we found a 

178 










c o 
°-o 

■— o 
.2^ 



J- E °- 



"S o-S 

ry5 V- « 

.- o 5 

•-'S M 

J= 2 c 



GIRAFFES' SPOOR 

ofood trail leadino- almost due westward. It was 
obvious that rain had fallen hereabouts, and the 
scene was most attractive ; there were shady trees, 
green grass, and even the ubiquitous thorn bushes 
were just beginning to show some leaves. Somehow 
the scenery gave me the impression of early spring, 
though in reality it was midsummer in that latitude. 
This was too pleasant to continue, and I was not 
surprised when we soon entered once more the 
endless wait-a-bit thorn-scrub. 

Throughout this country giraffes and giraffes' 
spoor are to be seen in astonishing numbers, yet 
it is hard for those who have not experienced it to 
believe how difficult they are to see. Their liver- 
coloured bodies netted with white seem to blend 
perfectly with the bush in which they live. This 
shows how easily Nature surpasses any efforts of 
ours, for who would have thought that so con- 
spicuously marked an animal would be almost invisible 
under certain circumstances ? 

As we trudged on, the heat grew and travelling 
became most tedious, owing to the thickness of the 
bush and the soft sand under foot. So that it was 
with geniune relief that we saw the scrub thinning 
out into a little plain which really formed a plateau 
of low elevation, although it was scarcely perceptible 
to the eye. In its centre was the typical Jubaland 
rain-pool — that is to say, a large circular depression 
filled with dense jungle. There is a very curious 
but general tradition among the Somali, that these 
pools were made by the prehistoric inhabitants of 
the country. The only foundation for this belief 
is the curious similarity of these natural reservoirs, 
and the strange fact that they are often situated at 

179 



MURDER OF JENNER 

approximately equal distances from each other along 
a trail, but it would have been an impossible work 
for any uncivilised native to have completed. But 
to continue. We were much disappointed to find 
Liboyi stone-dry, but I decided to take our midday 
rest here, and proceed again in the afternoon. This 
I did, and while waiting for lunch, went down into 
the swamp and took some photographs. The interior 
was filled with dry bush and dead trees, forming a 
jungle which was honeycombed with elephant paths 
from side to side. It was here that the late Mr. 
A. C. W. Jenner was murdered in 1905. He was 
attempting the same journey as I was now carrying 
out, and his object was to explore the Lak Dera 
and the Lorian. He passed through Afmadu and 
followed the old trail that leads past Tubtu to 
Robleh and Liboyi. He camped here during a 
thunderstorm, and unwisely collected the rifles of 
his escort and placed them in his tent in order to 
keep them from the wet. A party of Mohammed 
Zubheir warriors, who had been following him, 
attacked him suddenly during the night and murdered 
him together with his followers, of whom only three 
escaped in the bush and returned to tell the tale. 

I was therefore not sorry to leave this ill-omened 
place the same afternoon. At first I followed what 
seemed to be a well-marked trail, but, after going 
about one hour due west, I saw it was used only 
by giraffes and elephants, and fearing lest I should 
find no water I determined to march due north ; so 
leavinor the trail I struck out throug-h the bush in a 
direction at right angles to that from which we had 
come. I felt the responsibility of taking my men 
thus through an unknown country, especially since 

180 



INTO AN UNKNOWN LAND 

they placed in me a complete confidence that I would 
bring them back safely to their homes at last. 

I knew nothing of what lay in front of me ; the 
maps I had of this part of the country were mere 
blanks, and I was obliged to trust only to the 
accuracy of my last latitude observations and compass- 
bearings to enable me to reach the river. Some 
of the Swahili porters were already wavering and 
talking of going back, so I had to be firm, and in 
this my headman and my interpreter, Hassan, helped 
me immensely, or else Juma and the malcontents for 
whom he spoke might have won over to their side 
the rest of my men, and I should have had to return. 
I believe some kind fate was looking after me, for 
after making my way slowly for over an hour 
through the wait-a-bit thorn, I found a game trail, 
and following this, came upon two small pools of 
rain-water, one of which was beautifully clear and 
sweet. I was very much relieved, and so were my 
men ; they pitched camp and built the zariba in a 
very short time. Meanwhile I had gone out in 
search of food, and though I saw no big game, I 
luckily shot a couple of doves for dinner. Later on, 
as the night was clear, I seized the opportunity to 
take a series of observations for time and latitude, 
which kept me up till nearly eleven o'clock. 



i8i 



CHAPTER XVI 

THE LAK DERA 

As the first streaks of lio^ht were showinor in the east 
I climbed on to my mule, and, leading the way, 
marched towards the N.N.W. After half an hour's 
march we crossed some alluvial mud-flats and then 
reached what was evidently a dry river bed of some 
importance. It was filled with rank grass and reeds 
and was quite dry. Its general course was towards 
the north-east, and the bottom of the bed was some 
15 feet below the level of the surrounding country. 
My first idea was that it was the Lak Dera. But 
I was mistaken, as I found later in the day that it 
was only a tributary. I took some photographs here 
and observations for altitude, and then marched on 
through dense acacia scrub up a slight incline till I 
reached a kind of plateau. There was a quantity 
of surface water everywhere, so filling up the tanks 
I proceeded with a much lighter heart. The bush 
had been and was so thick, that I had to walk all 
the time, riding being out of the question. The 
country was entirely overgrown with a low jungle 
composed of camel thorn and mimosa scrub in full 
leaf. There was no trail of any sort, and the trees 
grew in such close proximity one to another that 
it was often necessary to clear the way for the camels, 
as otherwise the loads would have suffered severely. 
I soon began to go downhill again, and at eleven 

182 



LAK DERA 

o'clock, much to my joy and surprise, reached another 
river bed, also dry, and a well-travelled native path 
leadlno- alongf it towards the north-west. This, I 
was certain, was the Lak Dera ; so I gave orders 
for the camels to be unloaded and went on to in- 
vestigate. A river bed, such as this, has just the 
appearance of a crooked line drawn by some gigantic 
finger in the sand, only, of course, on a gigantic scale. 
Fill this with dense green scrub, and you have the 
Lak Dera as I first saw it. Some two hours later 
I started again under a blazing sun along its southern 
bank, and marched for half an hour up the trail, when 
to our mutual surprise I saw two Somali resting 
under a tree. They jumped for their spears, but as 
soon as they saw we were friends they came forward 
and a long conversation ensued. They told me 
that they were of the Aulehan tribe, and were in 
search of good pasture and water. This, they said, 
was the trail which led along the Lak Dera to 
Lorian, that the river I had crossed early in the day 
was the Lak Aboloni, and that their village was 
about four hours up the trail, whither they volunteered 
to escort us. So off we went aoain, still marchino- 
through the endless green scrub over a country that 
gradually rose as we advanced. 

From time to time I got a more open view of 
the river bed, now filled with reeds and tall rank 
grass, now bare and scarred by innumerable nullahs, 
and the hours passed like magic until at length we 
reached their little village, which lay beside two large 
pools to the north of the river ; but the camels did 
not arrive until two hours later. The inhabitants 
were not very obliging, refusing to provide guides 
for our next march, and though they possessed a 



VILLAGE OF SHIMBIRLEH 

large herd of cattle, they brought in nothing except 
a little milk. I noticed that the married women wore 
a vivid crimson head-dress instead of the usual black 
cloth, but I do not think that this custom is confined 
to the Aulehan. The country from here to the 
Lorian is unknown, except to a few native hunters, 
but the western extremity has been the scene of 
many a bloodthirsty conflict between the Mohammed 
Zubheir and the Abd Wak, two of the most truculent 
and least civilised sub-tribes of the whole of the 
Ogaden. It was therefore a heavy responsibility 
to take my men forward into this unexplored, water- 
less and dangerous region. 

Early the following morning I left the village, 
which is known, by the way, as Tur Guda (which 
means "a clump of Guda^ thorn trees"), and 
marched along an excellent trail, until some eleven 
miles to the westward I came to the little village 
of Shimbirleh, where there was a large rainpool, a 
hundred yards broad by two hundred long. The 
country between these two villages is fairly open, and 
contains many shallow sandy depressions to the north 
of the river. There were many guinea-fowl in the 
bush, of which I shot two, and I also obtained a 
young dik-dik, which were a valuable contribution to 
my larder. As I knew nothing of what lay before 
me, I let the men cook their food here, and then, 
filling up the ten water-cans, I started off westwards. 

Before leaving Shimbirleh, I had offered the 
fabulous sum of Rs.50 for a guide, but nothing would 
induce the headman of the village to provide one. 
He told me, however, that I should cross the river 
and follow its southern bank until I reached tv/o 

* Guda (or Guhra) is the Acacia Isyol. Z>EL. 
184 




Q I 






DENSE BUSH 

large pools near some low hills, and should then follow 
an old trail which led onwards to the Lorian. With 
this meagre information I had to be content. The 
bush soon became exceedingly dense, once more 
keeping out every breath of air and rendering the 
atmosphere terribly oppressive. We crossed the 
river, which was here shallow and much overgrown, 
and then made our way at a good pace along the 
right bank, as I had been directed. I was exceedingly 
grateful when the sun gradually sank lower ; at the 
same time the bush opened out a little, trees grew 
more plentiful, and at sunset I had a glimpse of the 
river bed again — white sand this time, and much 
deeper than I had previously seen it. The trail 
which had been growing more and more indistinct 
now gave out altogether, but I had the river to guide 
me, so I kept on, though the pace was now reduced 
to a crawl, for the country was very rough, full of 
holes and little steep valleys and nullahs. Except 
for the humidity of the atmosphere it was quite 
pleasant, the temperature being about 86°. A 
glorious moon was shining in a clear sky, and its 
beautiful soft light transformed a desolate and arid 
scene into one of beauty and of peace. My orderly 
walked in front carrying a lantern, and I followed 
him, my mind full of speculations as to what lay 
before me, and of pleasure because I was the first 
white man to penetrate this wilderness. 

The hours passed quickly, but towards eleven 
o'clock I decided to camp in a small open space, as 
my camels were very tired. My bed was got out, and 
after a cup of tea I lay down, and it seemed to me 
that I had hardly gone to sleep before I was awakened 
once more. After a hurried breakfast of minced 

185 



ARID COUNTRY 

guinea-fowl, I started off once more shortly before 
3 a.m. We were all somewhat tired and stiff, and 
it seemed ages before the first signs of dawn were 
apparent in the east ; but soon after the sun rose — a 
disc of deepest red seen through the heavy pall of 
mist that hung low over the bush. The dry river bed 
was on my right, and on each side of it the ground 
rose slightly, forming a kind of valley, while ahead 
I could see a low line of rounded hills just visible 
above the jungle through which I was threading my 
way. Dense thorn covered the land in all directions, 
forming a vast sea of verdure, but in spite of this the 
general aspect of the country was arid and inhospitable 
beyond words. These endless stretches of thorn-scrub 
are very depressing, and the brilliant sun, which had 
already dispersed the morning mist, failed to dispel 
the gloomy impression the scene had left on me. 

I continued marching steadily, keeping close to the 
river bank, and shortly before eight o'clock reached 
the low hills I had seen in front of me at daybreak. 
Here the river takes a bend to the north, and as the 
trail had by now quite disappeared, I decided to go 
straight on to the north-west, since it was most im- 
portant that we should reach the swamp as early as 
possible, both on account of water and of food. So I 
skirted the spur of the hills, where I found traces of 
an old Somali boma, leaving the river on my right- 
hand side. Close at hand were two large pools, then 
quite empty, and surrounded as usual by dense woods ; 
round one of them was a thorn hedge about 2 feet 
high with only one small opening where an old 
elephant trail led down to the pool. Not many yards 
away was a small shelter built in the bush. This was 
probably the work of some Somali hunters who had 

186 



SMALL ANNOYANCES 

lain in wait for their prey, and on several other occa- 
sions I have seen similar bush shelters built on river 
banks or near some favourite water-hole. 

On leaving this place, known, as I discovered 
later, by the name of Sereda, I again entered a most 
appalling stretch of bush, through which we had to 
hack our way with axes and slashers. It was terribly 
trying work, and we were all truly glad a couple of 
hours later when the scrub got thinner and progress 
became easier. Just before eleven we entered a small 
plain with a dry water-hole in the centre, and I decided 
to rest here. 

All around the thorn bush had given place to low 
stunted trees packed close together, leafless and 
blackened as though they had been burned. The 
heat was terrific, and in the sun one felt as though one 
were standing close to some huge bonfire. Two of 
my men suddenly collapsed from the heat, one of 
whom was a Somali. He became delirious and had 
to be tied down, but he recovered in the evening. 
After I had eaten a little lunch, I tried to sleep, but 
a multitude of ants and small flies kept me awake, and 
the time dragged heavily on, until at two o'clock I 
gave the signal to begin loading. Very wearily 
the caravan started once more, shortly after 3 p.m. 
Four of the water-tanks were now empty, so the sick 
men were tied on to the lightly loaded camels, but I 
could not help feeling sorry for them as I walked out 
once more into that blindino- sun. I marched on 

o 

steadily through fairly open bush ; no water was to be 
found, and the country seemed very parched and 
barren. Words fail me to describe the utter dreariness 
of that desert scene. 

Just before sunset, however, I had a great slice of 

187 



A SLICE OF LUCK 

luck. I had noticed a good many doves flying over- 
head in the same direction as we were going, and now 
I saw several sitting on a bush a few hundred yards to 
the right. Leaving my men and my mule I walked 
in their direction, full of excitement, and sure enough 
I found a small pool of very muddy water, perhaps 
3 yards broad, hidden under some bushes. I was 
immensely thankful, and my men delighted beyond 
words at this unexpected find. Having put my orderly 
on guard, I sat down to wait for my caravan to arrive. 
Presently the sun turned blood-red as it neared the 
horizon, and then soon sank from view behind the 
stunted thorn trees that stretched away interminably 
towards the west, whilst almost simultaneously the 
full moon rose in the east, a deep copper-coloured 
disc. I lay back luxuriously in the sand and dozed 
for a time until I heard in the distance the faint sound 
of bells and the snapping of branches as the camels 
made their way through the bush. The men began 
calling and whistling, and presently I saw the long 
line of camels, looking very strange now in the moon- 
light with their huge loads swaying and creaking as 
they walked, led by their native syces. The news 
that there was water immediately revived everyone, 
and they sang and joked as they unloaded the camels. 
I served out dates, instead of rice, for their evening 
meal, and these were soon eaten. Within an hour, 
silence reigned once more, and I turned in after a 
good look round to see that all was well. 

Much refreshed, I woke next morning at 2.30 and 
we were soon off. The bush was again appallingly 
dense and our progress slow. When the sun rose it 
revealed the same apparently limitless expanse of low 
wait-a-bit thorn ; there is but little charm in the dull 

188 



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INCORRECT INFORMATION 

monotony of these silent sun-scorched wastes, where 
the view is perpetually bounded by the jungle. A 
little later on a troop of eight giraffes crossed my 
path some 300 yards ahead, stood for a moment 
gazing at me, and then went on, first one, then another, 
breaking into their curious heavy gallop, their long 
black tails screwed up over their backs. 

About nine I suddenly came upon the river again, 
which had at this place cut a deep channel for itself 
in the soft sand, but it was still quite dry, its general 
direction being from S.W. to N.E. After crossing it 
I marched on a compass-bearing of 320°. According 
to the latest map this would lead me by the shortest 
route to the Lorian, which I then thought was not 
very far ahead. This was all the information I had 
to guide me, and, as it proved, it was quite incorrect, 
but I am Mad I did not know it then. Two miles 
farther on I came upon two large water-holes which 
were also quite dry ; nearly due north of them was a 
solitary low hill covered with bush. I determined to 
climb this, and on reaching the summit obtained a 
fairly extensive view over the surrounding country 
from the top of a tree. An unbroken expanse of 
thorn-scrub met my eye in every direction. No single 
landmark of any description broke the monotony of 
that absolutely level stretch of desert jungle which 
hid even the course of the Lak Dera from view. 
The harsh call of some guinea-fowl only served to 
intensify the silence that reigned over the bush. As 
I was making my way down the hill to the place 
where I left my mule, I shot one of these birds, at 
which I was very pleased, for I had practically no 
food left of any kind except rice and tea. A few 
yards farther, much to my astonishment, I suddenly 

189 



SUNSTROKE AND DYSENTERY 

came upon fresh cattle spoor, which could only mean 
that there was water ahead and that I was going in 
the right direction ; so taking up the trail I marched 
on with renewed hope, wondering who owned the 
cattle and whether they would prove friends or foes. 

The heat had been gradually increasing and was 
now so terrific that I called a halt just before noon. 
Unfortunately the thorn bush afforded no shade, and 
so exhausted were the men that it was with difficulty 
I persuaded them to light fires and cook their food. 
I had at that time two men down with dysentery, 
two with fever and one with sunstroke (the porter 
who collapsed the day before). The latter was in 
a pitiable condition, moaning and sobbing con- 
tinuously ; he revived somewhat after I had thrown 
a little of the precious water over him, and an 
injection of morphine seemed to ease the pain. 
Natives have very little pluck when they are ill, and 
very quickly give in, which makes it very hard to 
cure them. 

At three we were on our way again, still following 
the cattle tracks which led steadily through the bush 
towards the north-west. My thermometer at noon 
showed 114° in the shade, but even that does not 
convey an adequate idea of the dreadful heat ; no 
breath of wind stirred the leafless branches of the 
bush, and the dust caused by our passage hung sus- 
pended in the air like some thin copper-coloured 
mist. I was feeling far from well myself, having 
another slight attack of dysentery, brought on prob- 
ably by heat and fatigue, and I do not suppose I 
shall ever forget the weary hours that followed. 
Towards sunset the bush opened out ; we were 
gradually ascending, and on reaching the top of a 

190 



A HARD TIME 

low shallow valley we emerged on to a level plain 
covered with scattered scrub. For three hours more 
I marched on in the moonlight and then camped. 
My bed was soon made, and I went to bed too tired 
to eat. The cooler night air soon sent me to sleep ; 
but at 2,30 I arose once more and started off shortly 
after 3, confident that I was now approaching Lorian. 
Dawn showed me a perfectly level plain devoid of 
all grass, but dotted here and there with thorn trees. 
In the distance a low green line showed where the 
bush began again. Suddenly, however, I saw some 
cattle, and then right in front of me a large rain-pool 
round which were gathered the rest of the herd, 
guarded by some forty Somali. 

Since leaving Jeldez it had been indeed a hard 
time. We had marched continuously, resting only 
occasionally on the way, often without taking the 
trouble to pitch the tents. During the latter part 
of the journey, out of the twenty-four hours, sixteen 
were spent actually marching, with two halts each 
day from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and from 11 p.m. to 
3 a.m. During that time our rate of marching 
scarcely ever exceeded a mile and a half per hour ; 
for many hours were spent searching for a way, 
cutting a passage for the camels, rearranging their 
loads and attending to those who gave in on the 
march. Of the twenty-four men with me, one of 
the best and strongest of my porters was very 
seriously ill, and five others came in tied to the backs 
of camels. 



191 



CHAPTER XVII 

FROM HARYEL TO THE LORIAN SWAMP 

These Somali proved to be from the Maghabul tribe : 
they were astonished at seeing a white man, and not 
without reason, for none had passed that way before. 
But as soon as they had recovered from their first 
feelings of surprise, they warmly greeted me, and on 
learning that I was bound for the Lorian, they asked 
me to camp, in order that they might provide me with 
guides. They were travelling in the same direction, 
and several of their party had gone on ahead to find 
the best and quickest way, but they were shortly 
expected back, and the headman told me he would be 
glad to send one with me. I was only too glad to 
camp by the big pool, and rest both my men and my 
camels, so I readily fell in with his suggestion. It 
was not long before my tent was up ; soon I was 
enjoying the luxury of a hot bath, after which I lay 
down for a quiet and pleasant sleep. From this I 
was awakened by the sound of many voices outside, 
so I got up to see what was the matter. I found the 
headman of the cattle safari, with all his followers, 
waiting to speak to me. So I dressed, and, sitting 
down in front of my tent, I called them up. The 
headman then presented me with a nice fat calf, for 
which I was indeed most grateful, as I was very 
hungry and it would provide me with the best meal 
I had had for some time. He then went on to make 

192 



AN INTEEESTING OLD MAN 

a long and eloquent speech. He referred to his 
feelings, when he first saw me that morning, in terms 
of true Oriental exaggeration. "We felt," he said, 
" like little children who with wondering gladness 
behold the return home of their long-lost father, and 
shame fell upon us that we had nothing to offer him 
worthy of his acceptance. We have brought you 
this calf, and if it find favour in your sight, we shall 
be more than glad, more than recompensed." 

He proceeded to say that they were intending to 
march to Nairobi, where they expected to sell their 
cattle, but as they had never been there before, he 
hoped I would give them letters to help them. I 
thanked him as well as I could, through the inter- 
preter, and gave orders for " buni " to be prepared and 
served to them. This was a lengthy proceeding, as 
there were some thirty Somali present, but in the mean- 
time I had a long conversation with their leader, who 
proved to be a delightful old man, as interesting as 
he was friendly. He made me realise most vividly 
the hardships and discomforts of travelling with 
cattle ; his simple narrative of their march from 
Gulola, by a more northerly route than I had taken, 
abounded in quaint phrases and picturesque similes, 
and many of the essential features of their journey 
recalled to my mind the days when I had herded 
cattle on the Arizona plains. 

Most of his followers were quite young men ; 
the majority had never seen a town before, and some 
had not previously met a European. It was amusing 
to watch them examining my things and peering into 
my tent, but their curiosity had no trace of vulgarity 
in it, and their interest was wholly genuine. Although 
the greater number of these young warriors wore the 
N 193 



A YARIETY OF COSTUMES 

usual white "tobe," a few had departed far from the 
conventional dress worn by the Somali on trek. I 
noticed that some had draped themselves with two 
"half-lengths" of coloured cloth, as striking as any 
Scotch tartan, while one young ** blood " wore above 
his white loin-cloth a lady's brown jacket, made in 
the days when "leg of mutton" sleeves were fashion- 
able ! How he had ever got hold of it, and how he 
had managed to keep it in such excellent condition, 
in spite of the bush through which he had travelled, 
will always remain a mystery. As is the custom in 
the interior of Jubaland, all wore their hair long, 
well oiled and fluffed out, and in it many carried 
combs, shaped Mke a long wooden skewer. The 
habit of bleaching the hair is not regarded with much 
favour by these tribes of the Ogaden, though it is 
very general in northern Somaliland : nor will they 
shave their heads, as many of the Herti do on the 
coast, or the more civilised Somali in Nairobi or 
Kismayu. They were all fully armed, however, with 
spear, shield and knife : some carried in addition the 
curious hatchet (gudimo) of native manufacture, and 
the forked and hooked stick, both of which are used 
for making or pulling apart the zariba. 

When they had finished their "buni," but while I 
was still talking to them, one of the syces, who was 
on guard while the camels fed, came running in and 
reported that he had been accosted by four armed 
Somali, who asked who I was, how many rifles I 
had, and how many askaris. On hearing his 
answer they left him and disappeared in the bush. 
Thinking their behaviour very suspicious, he had 
told the other syce to drive in the camels, and had 
run on ahead himself to report. Before he had 

194 



SUSPICIOUS BEHAYIOUK 

finished speaking, my headman pointed to a couple of 
Somali, who could just be seen at the edge of the 
bush, watching us. He called to them to come into 
camp, instead of doing which they immediately ran 
away. These strange Somali skulking in the bush, 
their suspicious behaviour and the drift of their 
questions to the syce, seemed to indicate the prob- 
ability of an attack, and my position would have 
been very ugly had I not fortunately met the friendly 
Maghabul Somali that morning. Even so, it was highly 
unpleasant, situated as I was in a small clearing sur- 
rounded by bush which afforded ample cover for the 
enemy, and which would prevent effective rifle fire 
until they were so close that they could rush us. 

My own men were very nervous and were ex- 
hausted by the hard work of the last few days, but 
the chief of the friendlies offered to send out a small 
scouting-party of his men to reconnoitre, an offer 
which I accepted. For the next few hours my men 
worked feverishly to make our position as strong as 
possible. I had a small but very strong zariba 
erected in the shape of a hollow square. At one 
corner I posted two askaris, three syces and my gun- 
bearer, and at the opposite corner the other two 
askaris, three more syces and my headman. The 
loads formed another smaller square in the centre, 
and the spare ammunition was spread out in charge 
of Campi Mbaya, the skinner ; the camels were 
made to lie down, and were securely tied by a rope 
running from knee to knee over their necks, a method 
which would absolutely prevent them from getting 
up and stampeding should they become alarmed. 
The cattle were led down to the edge of the pool and 
a zariba erected round them. Half the friendly Somali 

195 



A TRYING WAIT 

kept guard over them, and the rest came in to help me. 
Thorn branches were cut down and spread freely over 
the open ground between the zariba and the bush in 
order to check the anticipated attack. 

When all was completed, a long and trying wait 
ensued. The sun beat down mercilessly upon the 
camp ; there was no sign of life or movement, save 
when some little cloud of dust stirred in a sudden gust 
of wind, which died away almost before it could be 
felt, or when a vulture sailed overhead in slow and 
solemn flight. An oppressive silence brooded over 
the bush — there was no sound to betray the presence 
of the enemy or to herald the return of the scouts. 
At length a little group of men came into sight : they 
were the young Maghabul, and they brought with 
them two prisoners, both of the Aulehan tribe, fully 
armed with rifles and plenty of ammunition, in addi- 
tion to their customary equipment. The rifles had 
been taken from them, and they were brought up to 
me unarmed. I questioned them at length with regard 
to their suspicious behaviour, but their answers were un- 
satisfactory. They said that they were merely travel- 
ling through the country to see if there was water and 
pasture, that there were nine of them, all armed, and 
that they had run away because they thought I was 
the District Commissioner from Moyale and would take 
away their rifles. They denied that they had spoken 
to my syce, although they were confronted with him, 
but acknowledged that they had followed our trail for 
the last two days. As I had been travelling very 
hard myself I suppose they had started too late to catch 
me up before I had overtaken the friendly Maghabul. 

As it was now growing dark I determined to hold 
them prisoners until next day, when I would release 

196 



PRISONERS 

them at the same time as I moved westwards towards 
the Loriaii. Of course I did not know whether they 
had spoken the truth as regards their number, so I 
took every precaution that night to guard against an 
attack. All the cooking was done before seven. At 
eight o'clock the fires were put out and the sentries 
doubled. I then went ostensibly into my tent, as 
though to go to bed, but after a short interval I turned 
down the light of the hurricane lamp very low, and 
then crept out and lay down fully dressed in the centre 
of the boma, near the load, with my rifle beside me. For 
I knew that should we be attacked, their first object 
would be to reach the tent. It was a beautiful starlit 
night, and I regretted that I could not take a latitude 
observation to confirm those I had taken at midday. 

Anxious though I felt, I was too tired not to sleep : 
the hours of darkness passed without incident, and it 
was only when the chilly breeze that precedes dawn 
was ruffling the smooth surface of the pool that I 
awoke and rose to stretch my cramped limbs. I 
could see the men beginning to move about — shadowy 
figures in the dim grey light, wrapped up to the eyes 
in their white tobes ; fires sprang up, around which 
gathered little groups, my breakfast was cooked, and 
as I ate it, down came the tent, and the loads were 
sorted and tied up. Just as the sun rose we all 
started ; I let the two young Aulehan go, and they 
returned eastwards througfh the bush in the direction 
of their village, a suspicious circumstance if they had 
really come to see the country. My opinion is that a 
party of young warriors had crossed and then followed 
our trail, in the hope perhaps of being able to catch us 
unawares and obtain either my rifles or camels or 
both ; but having been discovered, and seeing that I 

197 



WAIT-A-BIT THORN 

was on my guard, they gave up the idea, not being 
sufficiently strong to carry it out. 

I had arranged with the headman of the Maghabul 
that we should march independently of each other, as 
they had to allow the cattle to graze, which would 
have kept me back. But he provided me with two 
men, who thought they knew the way. Although we 
were likely to meet again at the Lorian Swamp, I 
gave him before I left a handsome gift of cloth, silk, 
"buni," tobacco and perfume, to show my appreciation 
of his behaviour on the previous day, and he seemed 
delighted with the present. 

It was not long before Haryel Plains were left, for 
after passing through several thin belts of bush, we 
entered once more the familiar wait-a-bit thorn-scrub. 
Our progress became more and more slow, and it was 
soon obvious that my two guides had lost their way, and 
it became a typical case of the blind leading the blind. 
They had a vague notion of where the Lorian lay, and 
so had I, so we crept on slowly but patiently towards 
the west. Six hours passed thus, and then I decided 
to let the camels have their midday rest here, while 
some of my men went on in different directions in 
search of a trail. The thorn-scrub here was covered 
with leaves ; the camels seemed to appreciate this 
unusual state of things, and fed with avidity on the 
young and tender shoots in spite of the hot sun. 
They would roll their long and horrid-looking tongues 
round the thick end of a small branch, and then, with a 
single steady pull, would strip it clean — after which 
they would chew contentedly for some time before 
repeating the performance. The thorns did not seem 
to worry them at all, and not one of them showed 
signs of having been scratched. 

198 



A PLATEAU 

While I was eating my own lunch, and watching 
them at the same time, one of the sentries who was 
on guard came up and reported that one of the guides 
had returned, having found the faint trail he was 
looking for. By two o'clock the others had also 
arrived, so we were able to proceed not long after. 
The morning had, however, been wasted, so it was 
improbable that we should reach the Lorian Swamp 
that night. As soon as we came to the long-disused 
track which we were to follow, we were able to mend 
our pace. The ground rose steadily as we advanced, 
and at length we reached a plateau only thinly covered 
with bush. We were now some 800 feet above sea- 
level, and, on looking back, Haryel Plains could just 
be seen through the thick heat haze that hung low 
over the land. It was barely visible and appeared as 
a thin yellow line almost lost in the vast expanse of 
green bush that surrounded it. Old rhinoceros spoor 
was plentiful on this table-land, and there were many 
giraffe about but very little game of any other sort. 

Five miles farther on we crossed a narrow valley 
150 feet deep, in which was situated a large water- 
hole ; when we passed, it was quite dry, so we climbed 
up the other side on to another plateau 180 feet 
higher than the last. The bush, however, became 
very dense, the track disappeared, and we were 
compelled to follow an old elephant trail. While I 
was examining the pool we had just passed, I noticed 
that some elephants had come down from the north, 
but on finding no water had turned south-west along 
the trail, and had proceeded at a fast walk in the 
direction of the Lorian Swamp. We followed their 
tracks easily enough, and it was apparent that they 
were very thirsty, as they had not halted anywhere to 

199 



TREMENDOUS THUNDERSTORM 

feed, but had continued in single file up the trail. 
Just before sunset I noticed that the elephants had 
left the path and turned off to the left. Following in 
their footsteps I found a small pool about half a mile 
away. After drinking, they apparently had stayed 
near it for some time, for the water was very muddy 
and filthy ; they then had begun to feed, moving 
slowly away towards the east. 

I decided to camp in the vicinity, as it was not 
safe to travel in the dark after yesterday's experience. 
The camels were a long way behind, so we sat down 
under a bush to await their arrival. Huge storm- 
clouds had been quietly gathering all afternoon, and 
now a tremendous thunderstorm broke, wetting us to 
the skin in an instant. The rain fell in solid sheets 
of water, the track became a raging torrent, and pools 
were formed in every hollow. To add to the dis- 
comfort a strong wind rose, chilling us to the bone. 
It was absolutely impossible to light a fire — not only 
were the matches damp, but the few dead branches 
lying about were thoroughly wet. So we stood and 
shivered in the meao-re shelter of a thorn bush and 
tried to summon what patience we could until the 
rest of the caravan turned up. 

Just as darkness was falling, and the storm was 
abating, the camels came in ; the wet wood was 
immediately collected in a huge heap, a few sheets 
torn from my notebook were placed underneath, and 
some paraffin poured over the lot, so that a few 
minutes after applying the first match we were all 
warminof ourselves before a hugfe bonfire. It was 
delio^htful to feel the heat, and although the rain had 
rendered the ground very wet and muddy, and every- 
thing was disagreeably sticky, yet the pleasure at 

200 




My Headman — Dahir Omar 

He was an Ogaden Somali of the Mohammed Zubheir tribe. Notice the knife, spear, pillow, 
and shield. On the latter will be seen several dark scratches. 1 hese were caused by a lion, which 
killed the former owner of the shield (see Chapter IV). He was a capable and intelligent man, and 
rendered splendid service while he was with me. 



FIRST VIEW OF THE LORIAN 

feeling warmth and comfort stealing over one's 
body again, almost wiped out the recollection of all 
the previous discomforts. At last my tent was 
pitched, a strong zariba built, and I was able to sit 
down to a good supper. 

As soon as it was sufficiently light, we broke 
camp, and continued our march across the plateau. 
Except for being somewhat stiff I was none the worse 
for the experience of the night before, and I felt very 
happy and contented to think that my goal was so 
close at hand. For days and weeks I had been 
thinking of the Lorian Swamp, for months it had 
been my one desire to reach it ; at times it had 
seemed as though I should never attain it, and now 
I knew it lay close by and might see it at any moment. 
On and on we marched, until at length we reached 
the edge of the plateau, and here I obtained my first 
view of Lorian. At my feet stretched an immense 
shallow valley which lay across our path and 
disappeared on either side in the blue mist of the far 
horizon. In the distance, a great way ahead, I could 
see a thin, white streak amidst the bush, which I knew 
must be the plains on either side of the Lorian, while 
still farther a low line of rounded hills showed 
indistinctly in the early morning haze. To right and 
left, between the plains and the plateau on which we 
were, the desert scrub stretched away interminably. 
It was a lonely and desolate scene ; but the vastness 
of the view, the mystery that for ever broods over an 
unknown land, and the faint blue mist in the south 
where the low hills rose against the sky, gave 
solemnity and a melancholy charm to a landscape 
that was otherwise monotonous and tedious. 



20I 



CHAPTER XVIII 

PLAIN AND SWAMP 

Only those who have travelled in a desert country 
will realise my feelings as I gazed at that insignificant 
white line in the distance, and knew that permanent 
water was close at hand. With this knowledge a 
heavy load of anxiety and of responsibility was lifted 
from my shoulders. In that moment I was filled with 
true thankfulness, and it seemed as if at last my 
troubles were over and that the rest of my journey 
would be easy and pleasant, though many a long mile 
lay between me and civilisation. 

Eagerly I called on my men to start, and, leading 
the way, I climbed down the side of the plateau into 
the valley. On all sides the bush rose like a solid 
wall, shutting out the view, but the game trail led 
onwards, marked by broken branches, where giant 
bodies had forced their way. In our eagerness to 
reach the swamp, the road seemed interminable, and 
wound in and out in a most confusing manner, until 
at length abruptly, without any warning, the bush 
ceased and we emerged into an open plain. The 
ground, sandy and bare save for a thin covering of 
short grass, sloped gently down for a couple of miles 
until it met the darker green of the reed beds, which 
stretched in an apparently unbroken line to right and 
left, as far as the eye could reach. Above the tangled 
vegetation of the swamps a thin line of thorn-trees 

202 



ORYX 

rose, delicately outlined against the blue of the sky, 
A herd of Grant's gazelle, a couple of oryx beisa and 
a solitary Grevy's zebra were feeding peacefully at 
the edge of the reeds, while egrets in astonishing 
numbers were resting on the thorn trees or flying 
over the swamp, their white feathers flashing in the 
sun. The abrupt cessation of the bush, which had 
become so detestably familiar to me, and the narrow 
strip of bare and arid plain, in striking contrast to the 
tropical fertility of the swamp, combined to form a 
scene that was strange, even dramatic, in its contrast. 

I decided to camp half-way between the bush and 
the reed bed in the open plain, and I set the porters 
who were with me to build a zariba, while waiting for 
the camels to arrive. In the meantime I made my 
way towards where the oryx were feeding, as it was 
very necessary to obtain some meat for myself and 
my men. 

Stalking them was a difficult and slow proceeding, 
for there was no cover ; I wanted to be sure of my 
shot so as not to frighten unduly other game that 
might be in the vicinity. I soon discovered that there 
were three oryx, for I had not seen one that was 
lying down close to the others. When I was still 
300 yards away they began to move around, 
obviously uneasy, though they had not made me out. 
I lay quite motionless stretched on the ground ; in 
another five minutes they had begun to graze again. 
In this way I gradually got closer, and finally I took 
a shot at just under 200 yards at the largest of 
the three as he was facing me. From the sound of 
the bullet I thought I had made a good shot ; he fell 
like a log, then got up, ran forward for about a couple 
of hundred yards and lay down again. One of the 

203 



A FINE BULL 

others remained with him, moving round and round 
and trying to make him get up, but the other one 
galloped off and disappeared in the bush. As I 
thought the oryx was hit in the shoulder, I sat down 
for about ten minutes, and then got up and walked 
towards him to finish him off. But as he caught 
sight of me, he rose, and with the cow dashed off 
madly towards the bush. 

Although running on three legs only he went at 
a great pace. I was very much disappointed, and 
could not make out where I had hit, but I decided to 
follow him and try to put him out of his misery. So 
I took up the blood spoor, which was very clear, at a 
trot, and soon I reached and entered the bush once 
more. I proceeded more cautiously, and presently, on 
looking through the undergrowth, I made him out 
under a tree not 40 yards away. It was an easy shot, 
and I brought him down with a broken neck. He 
proved to be a fine bull in the height of condition, 
with a symmetrical and massive pair of horns measur- 
ing a shade under 34 inches in length. This is 
a good average length for a herd bull, but the 
horns of cows and old bulls leading a solitary life 
attain a much greater size ; my bullet had hit him 
just above the hoof, breaking the bone completely — 
a bad shot indeed, but one that proved effective, 
luckily for me. Leaving my gun-bearer and skinner 
with him, I walked back to camp with my orderly, 
and found my tent up and the camels grazing. The 
men were delighted with the news that I had killed, 
and all the meat was soon brought back. 

The next four clays were spent in examining the 
eastern portion of the swamp ; every moment was 
precious, for my supply of rice had now given out 

204 



SCANTY SUPPLIES 

completely and I had nothing left but a couple of 
sacks of badly ground maize that I had bought at 
Kismayu, which was almost uneatable, consisting 
chiefly of dried husks, dust and pebbles. I had been 
badly cheated, of course, but it is impossible to go 
through every sack at the time of purchase. For- 
tunately game was fairly plentiful, so that I was able 
to provide sufficient meat. But in spite of the 
wretched food, there was very little grumbling among 
my followers. With but few exceptions they were 
really a splendid set of men, especially the Somali, 
and I owe them a real debt of gratitude for the 
willingness with which they carried out their work, 
and for the silent patience with which they endured 
the hardships and sufferings to which I was com- 
pelled to expose them daily. 

The place where I first reached the swamp is 
known as Melka Waja ; Melka is a Somali word 
meaning a "place" and "waja" is the name of a 
graceful thorn tree, with pale green bark and delicate 
feathery branches. It is much prized by the natives, 
owing to a kind of gum that exudes from it, which is 
apparently very sustaining, if eaten. But before 
going on to describe my journey between Melka 
Waja and Marti mountain, I will give a brief 
summary of the Lorian district in order that the 
reader may have a clearer picture of that part of the 
country. 

First of all I should like to emphasise the fact 
that the river bed is continuous from the source of the 
Uaso Nyiro to Afmadu, since this was not known 
previously. Once past the remarkable volcanic 
plateau, called by the natives Marti, the Uaso Nyiro 
is known to the Borana and Somali as Lorian, and 

205 



THE LORIAN DISTRICT 

this name is extended to the district througrh which it 
flows until permanent water ceases at Madoleh (" place 
of darkness "). From that place to Afmadu the stream 
bed is known as the Lak Dera ("the long water- 
course "). But although in the latter stages of its 
wanderings the river is generally dry, and its channel 
often ill-defined and overgrown with dense jungle, yet 
to the careful observer, who has patiently followed its 
course, the main stream bed is always distinguishable. 
A glance at the map will show that the district of Lorian 
is contained between the 39th and 40th meridians 
of E. longitude along the ist parallel of N. latitude. 
It may be considered as a shallow valley sloping 
gently to the south-east, whose floor consists of an 
alluvial plain of great extent, divided unequally into 
two parts by the river and the swamps through which 
it flows. 

There are three swamps in the Lorian district. 
The first is situated about sixty miles to the east of 
Marti (1° 09' 59" N., 39° 15' 47" E.), and is called 
by the Borana and Somali Melka Gela ("watering- 
place of camels"). It consists of a large shallow 
depression about ten miles long by two broad, lying 
close to the south bank of the river, where the latter 
turns from its north-eastern course to east, and then 
south-east. It is covered during the rainy season 
with tall, coarse grass, ten or twelve feet high, and the 
ground becomes very saturated and swampy, and if 
the rains have been particularly abundant these con- 
ditions may extend to the north bank. In the dry 
season, however, the grass withers and the ground 
grows hard, and cracks, leaving large gaps in its 
surface. There are also one or two tiny little stream 
beds that wander across this swamp ; but they cannot 

206 



THE LORIAN SWAMP 

be mistaken for the real river, which is at least 60 
feet across at this place, and 6 to 8 feet deep. 

Thirty miles farther east is the main Lorian 
Swamp, an enormous bed of dark green reeds. 
Before entering it the river flows for three miles 
through a bare alluvial plain, and is about 45 feet 
broad by 4 deep ; but, once within, it divides into 
three channels, the centre one being the largest. 
The northern branch, which was practically dry when 
I was there, rejoins the river lower down, but the 
southern branch, as far as I was able actually to 
ascertain, finally disappears in the mud to the south- 
east. A small stream, known as the Lak Arro Dima, 
runs down from the hills to the north and joins the 
main river bed. In the eastern portion of this swamp 
the reeds give place to coarse grass 9 to 10 feet high, 
and equally dense. Finally, in long. 39° 45' 6" E. 
and lat. 1° o' 615" N., the river emerges once more 
into an open plain. At this point the bush which 
covers the Lorian hills comes down to within half 
a mile of the river and then recedes far back until 
it is met with once again at Madoleh. 

It is impossible to say exactly how big this swamp 
really is, since it varies greatly with the seasons, but 
to give fifty miles as its circumference would be a 
conservative estimate. Its northern bank is called 
Arro Dima ; its southern, Jaffa Wein. Much water 
is lost by evaporation, but in my opinion the greater 
part sinks underground. At any rate, the river 
emerges as a narrow shallow stream flowing between 
high banks, whose course is marked by a thin line of 
waja trees. Six miles farther east it enters yet a 
third swamp near Melka Waja, consisting of tall 
grass and a few acacia trees, and being in extent five 

207 



ARDUOUS EXPLOHATION 

miles long by two broad, but its size may be increased 
during the rainy season. Underfoot, in both the 
second and third swamps, the ground was very soft 
and saturated, and in February, when I visited them, 
there were about 6 inches of surface water. In a 
still further attenuated form the stream emerges once 
more and flows eastwards for eleven miles through flat 
alluvial plains, gradually diminishing in size until 
permanent water ends in a series of shallow pools 
surrounded by trees and bush, and this spot is called 
Madoleh. In exceptional years of rain, water may 
be found farther east, but the Somali and Borana I 
met assured me that a traveller could always depend 
on getting water at Madoleh, if not on the surface, 
at any rate only a few inches below, and it is towards 
this place that they always direct their steps when 
travelling across the thorn-covered desert that lies 
between the Tana and Lorian. 

Having indicated the main features of the Lorian 
district, I will continue the narrative of my journey. 
As I mentioned above, I remained four days investi- 
gating the country between Melka Waja and Arro 
Dima. The small swamp, near which I camped at 
first, was very interesting to me, but the work of 
exploring it proved extremely arduous. Once the 
coarse grass was entered, progress was terribly trying. 
At every step thousands of mosquitoes and biting 
insects of every kind were roused, while I sank 
continually to my knees in the soft clinging mud. 
Time and time again I stumbled over tangled roots, 
and it was only after persistent efforts that I reached 
the river bank. 

As I was following it westwards, I came upon a 
little island of solid ground about 200 yards from the 

208 



BUSH SHELTERS 

stream. It was covered with waja trees and a few 
laro^e acacias all o-rowing" close top"ether. In the 
middle I found two small bush shelters, where three 
or four men had obviously been hiding. To say the 
least, it was exceedingly curious ; what they were 
doing there I cannot imagine, for no one would live 
in such dismal surroundings unless he were forced 
to do so. They may have been Borana trying to 
escape from their Somali oppressors, the Abd Wak, 
or perhaps fugitives of the latter tribe in hiding after 
the disastrous defeat they had suffered at the hands 
of the Mohammed Zubheir. Whoever they were, 
the signs of human habitation in the midst of the 
tangled confusion of that desolate swamp seemed 
almost incredible, and struck a strange, even a 
sinister note. 

At last I emerged once more into the open, having 
followed the course of the river from end to end of 
the swamp ; but, in addition, I had to fix the general 
outline of the hills and their heights, and to ascertain 
the lie of the land to the east of Melka Waja swamp. 
While working I also had to shoot for the pot, and 
take various astronomical observations, so I had no 
time to spare. Grant's gazelle {G. granti brighti) 
and Grevy's zebra were fairly numerous, but I saw 
no more oryx or any other game until I reached 
Arro Dima. 

When I broke camp at Melka Waja, I sent my 
camels a long way outside the swamp in case there 
should be any tsetse fly, and my mule went with 
them. Meanwhile, I followed the course of the river 
on foot, and a very trying and exhausting march it 
proved. I took several photographs of the river, and 
by climbing a thorn tree managed to get a view of 
o 209 



ZEBRA 

the swamp from within, but no picture can convey 
any idea of the true character of the place. At length 
I reached the junction of the Lak Arro Dima, and 
following that, came out on to the plains, where I 
found my headman had made camp some two miles 
away. In the distance, to the north-east, the Lorian 
hills rose gently from the plain, their outline softened 
by the shimmering heat waves ; to the south the dark 
green of the reed bed could be seen stretching away 
in an unbroken line to the horizon, and in between 
lay the interminable alluvial flats, bare and desolate, 
save for an occasional stunted bush or a small herd 
of game, made fantastic and unreal by the shifting 
and ever present mirage. 

Lack of food, however, rendered it imperative that 
I should go out in search of meat. I soon spotted a 
couple of zebra ; they were rather suspicious, and 
would gallop off for two or three hundred yards every 
time I thouo-ht I was o-ettino- within shootingf distance. 
There being no cover, it was useless to try a stalk, so 
I got up and walked slowly but steadily diagonally 
towards them. This ruse succeeded at last, after a 
couple of attempts, and I managed to approach fairly 
close. I then sat down quickly, took rapid aim and 
fired at the stallion. The bullet hit him just below 
the shoulder, breaking the leg, but not wounding him 
fatally. As he went off I fired twice again, but 
missed. I had had nothing to eat that day, except 
a cup of tea and some toast, and I determined I would 
not lose him, so I got on my mule and, with my rifle 
in my hand, galloped after him. It was not very 
long before I overtook him, handicapped as he was 
by his broken leg. 

My mule's blood was up and she became almost 

2IO 



AN EXCITING RIDE 

unmanageable, so that I could not get off, especially 
as I only had one hand free. At last we entered 
the bush, going at full gallop, and matters became 
really exciting. It was a mad rush, but my only 
chance was to catch the zebra and shoot it as 1 
passed, and this I managed to do very luckily almost 
at once, for the zebra stumbled and fell, and I killed 
it before it rose again ; but it took me quite a time 
to quieten the mule. The men came up shortly after, 
and I left them to bring in the meat, while I rode 
back to camp, and enjoyed the luxury of a shave and 
a warm bath while dinner was being prepared. I 
rather disliked the idea of eating zebra, but I was 
spared the ordeal, for my skinner, who had been out 
collecting, had killed a francolin — a change in my 
menu that was very welcome. My men, however, 
were glad enough to have the zebra, especially as 
they are among the few wild animals on which there 
is any fat, of which they are, almost without exception, 
inordinately fond. 

All through my stay at the Lorian, especially when 
working in the swamps, I was much troubled by a 
variety of biting flies and insects, but chiefly by 
swarms of mosquitoes {Stegomyia). They are found 
in incredible numbers near the river, becoming more 
and more scarce as one leaves it, until they disappear 
at a distance of about five miles away. Along the 
water's edge and in the reed beds their attentions 
become almost unbearable, attacking one in a perfect 
swarm all day long, and, although a mosquito curtain 
kept them off at night, the irritation caused by their 
bites made sleep impossible. Though numerous in 
Jubaland, I had never met them in sufficient numbers 
to cause much annoyance, but in the Lorian, hunger, 

211 



PLAGUE OF MOSQUITOES 

thirst and fatigue, and all the other minor incon- 
veniences which a traveller in the far corners of the 
world must of necessity endure, sank into insignificance 
compared to the irritation and real pain caused by 
these abominable insects. 



212 



CHAPTER XIX 

A LAND OF MIRAGE 

On leaving Arro DimcT, I first crossed the stream bed 
that bears that name, and then marched N.W., skirt- 
ing the edge of the swamp, sometimes within the 
reeds, sometimes on the bare alluvial flats just outside. 
But the camels made a wide detour in order to avoid 
the possibility of infection from "fly." I did not see 
any tsetse, however, although there may have been a 
few amongst the countless biting insects that attacked 
me, and it was not until Melka Gela was reached that 
they were met with in any numbers. But whether 
they are infected or not, it is difficult to say ; I should 
think it was improbable, for the Borana own enormous 
herds of cattle in the western portion of the Lorian, 
and they told me that they were very little troubled 
by " fly." On the other hand, there have been several 
suspected cases amongst the cattle brought down from 
Lorian to Rumuruti and Naivashi by Somali traders. 
During this march I found and followed the 
northern branch of the river, which was then dry, 
save for a few shallow pools. That a considerable 
amount of water flows down it at certain seasons is 
obvious, for the bed is 1 2 feet deep and about 30 feet 
broad. Tall grass and reeds grow right up to the 
edge of the bank in such profusion as to completely 
hide the stream from view ; in fact, I had no idea of 
its close proximity, until, in forcing my way through 

213 



ELEPHANT SKULLS 

the grass, which rose above my head, I suddenly fell 
and found myself, on getting up, in the soft mud that 
forms the river bed. At length I emerged from the 
swamp ; in front of me stretched a perfectly level 
expanse of plain, devoid of all vegetation, through 
which the river ran sluggishly in a very winding 
channel. I could trace its course until it was lost to 
sight in a narrow belt of bush some three or four 
miles ahead. Still farther away some big trees 
apparently grew along its banks, but everything was 
distorted into curious and fantastic shapes by the 
shifting mirage, and it was impossible to make 
anything out distinctly. 

In the distance, to my right, I could see my camels 

making their way towards the bush, where I had told 

the headman to make camp, but they appeared unreal 

and enormously magnified, and seemed to be floating 

in the air, so strange was the effect of the shimmering 

heat waves that rose from the baked brown earth. 

I started across the plain in order to join my safari, 

when my attention was attracted by what looked like 

three enormous white stones. They proved to be the 

skulls of elephants from which the tusks had been 

extracted. They were probably victims of Borana 

hunters, who, during the dry season, come down to 

the Lorian in search of game. I had been much 

surprised that I had not seen, during my work in 

Melka Waja and Arro Dima Swamps, any fresh signs 

of elephant, buffalo, rhino or hippo. Old spoor was 

plentiful, especially of elephant, but except for a few 

zebra and gazelle and an occasional oryx, game was 

conspicuous by its absence between Madoleh and 

Melka Dera ("the long watering-place"), which is 

the native name for the small district I was now in. 

214 



MIRAGE 

Later on I was given a very probable explanation 
of this state of affairs by two Haweyah hunters that 
I met near Marti, and who accompanied me for 
some time as guides. They said that whenever 
there was any surface water in the bush or in the 
hills the game left the Lorian and scattered over 
the country, where feed was good and plentiful, only 
returning to the river when the "worrta" or rain-pans 
dried up. At such times enormous herds of elephant, 
buffalo and other smaller species of game collected 
on the plains round the swamps. This would explain 
the conflicting' accounts of bio--p-ame hunters who 
have from time to time found their way in the 
western portions of the Lorian district. 

Having examined these remains, I proceeded 
slowly onwards, for the heat was now very great, 
and the mirage, if possible, even more accentuated. 
Suddenly to my left, about a mile away, I saw a 
herd of animals moving about. I was accompanied 
by my orderly and skinner, both men born in the 
wilds and accustomed from their earliest days to 
seeing game of every kind, yet none of us could 
decide what they were, so unreal and fantastic was 
their appearance in the strange atmospheric conditions 
that prevailed. What struck us as particularly odd 
was that they seemed to be bathing in a shallow 
lake, for now and again we saw a silver streak, as 
though they were splashing in the water. So large 
did they look, that I mistook them at first for buffalo, 
but on approaching closer, I saw that they were only 
waterbuck, and that the white we had observed was 
caused by a number of egret, whose snowy plumage 
flashed like silver as they rose, although they were 
inconspicuous enough on the ground. 

215 



WHITE WATERBUCK 

There were about twenty antelope in all, with 
the unmistakable white elliptical ring on the rump 
from which these waterbuck obtain their specific title 
(Cobus ellipsiprynmus). In this group there were 
but three young bucks, the rest being does, and 
none of them was worth shooting. One of the 
latter, however, was feeding apart, and her appearance 
was so unusual that she immediately caught my 
attention. Instead of the grizzled grey-roan coat 
so characteristic of the waterbuck, she was of a 
uniform yellow-white colour, and the hair long and 
more or less shaggy, and the muzzle dark. This 
was an albino, a few specimens of which have been 
obtained in the Lorian district. Being a doe, I did 
not attempt to shoot her, but I was very disappointed 
at not seeing a buck, as I should very much have 
liked to obtain one of these so-called white water- 
bucks. According to Colonel Broun the eyes are 
of normal colour, and the nose and feet dark. They 
are some freak of nature, and are unlikely to form 
a separate species, being probably descendants from 
the same parents. It is at least a curious coincidence 
that Mr. A. B. Percival obtained an albino zebra in 
the Lorian district to the south-west of the main 
swamp, and I believe one or two more were shot later 
in the same region. 

On reaching the bush, I found my tent pitched 
in the shade of a large acacia. The scenery was 
most lovely and picturesque, while the trees afforded 
pleasant shade in which relief could be obtained from 
the trying glare of the open plains. I spent a day 
at this camp, wandering through the bush that covers 
the banks of the river ; I found traces of a Borana 
boma, and more remains of dead elephants. Old 

216 




The Second Lorian Swamp 

The line of trees in the_ distance denotes the actual river-bed ; they are thornless acacia trees 
called " Waja " by the natives, and they give their name to the surrounding district (Melka Waja). 
The photograph was taken from a tree, and shows the tall reeds and grass that render it almost 
impossible to penetrate into the swamp. 




The Uaso Nyiro, above Marti Plateau 

Notice the groves of dom palms on both banks. They are a conspicuous feature of the country 
between Archer's Post and Marii. 



FISH 

spoor of the latter was exceedingly plentiful, and in 
one spot on the plains the surface was cut up to 
an extraordinary extent by their huge footprints, 
clearly proving that during the rains these mud-flats 
become very swampy. 

Through the enterprise of one of my Swahili 
porters, who had bought some fish-hooks at Kismayu, 
a quantity of fish were caught in the river, and they 
proved a highly acceptable addition to my larder. 
They were of three kinds, a large and a small species 
of barbel and a fish resembling a perch. The latter 
was almost uneatable, as it contained an incredible 
quantity of bones ; but the two former were delicious, 
and when fried or grilled made a most tasty dish. 
They were artless creatures. A hook baited with 
a grasshopper or piece of meat and tied to a thick 
piece of string was all that was needed to haul them 
in one after the other. My porters, after catching 
the first one, would cut him up and use him as a 
bait to entrap others, and they seemed as eager to 
take the hook thus disguised as when it was covered 
by a more dainty morsel. One hungry fish actually 
swallowed the bare hook, from which the grasshopper 
had been removed by a more artful companion, and 
was quickly hauled to the shore. 

After leaving Melka Dera I continued marching 
in a north-westerly direction, following the left bank 
of the river, while the camels kept well outside the 
bush. I crossed a large plain covered with coarse 
grass and then entered more open country, where 
only a narrow fringe of bush separated the river 
from the alluvial flats. The grass had been burned, 
and now the fresh green shoots were just springing 
up, giving to the scene a fertile and pleasant aspect. 

217 



A LARGE HERD OF ORYX 

I was not surprised, therefore, to see a certain quantity 
of game feeding ; there was an enormous herd of 
oryx, more than I had ever seen gathered together 
before. As far as I could ascertain there were at 
least one hundred and fifty, but it is difficult to count 
animals who are moving about. This is a most 
unusual sight, for, as a rule, oryx are found in little 
herds very rarely exceeding twenty individuals in 
each. It was a lovely scene and they appeared very 
handsome, their sleek brown bodies, their boldly 
marked faces and long sharp horns glistening in 
the sunlight. 

I did not molest them, as I wished to shoot a 
gazelle, a herd of which I saw in the distance, for 
the flesh of the latter is far preferable. This I was 
able to do, and while it was being skinned I rode 
on to look for a suitable camping-ground. I found 
a cool and shady spot in the bush near the river, 
not far from a likely-looking ford. Although I had 
myself passed over to the southern side many times, 
I had not yet succeeded in finding a place where 
the camels could wade across, for they are helpless 
in the mud, owing to the peculiar form of their 
feet, which are especially adapted for walking on 
the sand or hard ground of an arid country. At 
this place the river was shallow and broad, with a 
sandy bed, so that I hoped I might be able to get 
them safely over in the afternoon. This ford is 
known to the Borana as Melka Adi (white place), 
owing to the unusually light colouring of the soil. 

While my tent was being pitched, two natives 
were seen approaching. They were carrying enor- 
mous spears and were clothed in a loose cotton cloth, 
once white, but now of a neutral brown tint. They 

218 



CONYERSATIONAL DIFFICULTIES 

were brought up to me by my headman and orderly, 
and I questioned them as to who they were and 
where they came from. They said they were Borana, 
and that their village lay fourteen miles to the west 
near Melka Gela (watering-place of camels). I 
obtained quite a lot of information from them about 
the country, but our conversation was carried on 
under difficulties, for my headman was the only one 
who could understand their language. When I 
asked a question in English, it was turned into 
Somali by my interpreter Hassan, and from Somali 
into Borana by Dahir, the headman, and their answer 
came back to me in a similar way. Moreover, It 
is customary among the Borana for the listener to 
repeat in a loud tone the last word of the question 
addressed to him, a habit which not only lengthens 
a conversation Interminably, but also sounds very 
comic If one is not accustomed to it. The following 
is the sort of thing that goes on : — 

Question : How far is your village ? 

Answer : Village? Our village is not very far. 

Question: Far? How many hours? 

Answer: Hours? Perhaps five. 

Question : Five ? five hours ? 

Answer : A — Ah ! 

To which you reply, A — Ah ! A — Ah ! if you are 
satisfied and wish to ask another question. 

However, they agreed to act as guides until I 
could get others from the next village ; they advised 
me to cross the river that evening, so that an early 
start could be made the following morning. So I 
gave orders to my headman to start at once, while 
I went down to the river to do a little fishing before 

219 



A PRAIRIE FIRE 

supper. While I was thus occupied, and was enjoy- 
ing the peaceful scene that lay before me, I noticed 
a thin blue haze orrowin^ in the east : this increased 
in volume very quickly, and soon great clouds of 
smoke began to pass overhead, driven by a light 
breeze. At the same time I became aware of a 
continuous crackling noise which gradually grew 
louder, while the heat became very oppressive. I 
walked back to camp and found everybody working 
feverishly to get the last few loads across the river : 
the camels were already feeding on the other side, 
and it was not long before we too had gained the 
comparative safety of the southern bank and were 
free to gaze at the awe-inspiring sight of the prairie 
fire that raged to the north ; huge red flames could 
be seen rising above the bush, above which hung 
enormous clouds of black smoke. As darkness fell 
the beauty of the scene increased, but the fire 
gradually died away to the north-west, and on the 
following morning the black and smoking plain was 
all that was left to mark its passage. 

We were lucky to have been able to cross the 
river, as otherwise we might have been very awk- 
wardly situated. How it started I have not the 
faintest idea, unless one of my porters had thrown 
away a cigarette into a dry patch of grass during 
the morning's march : the country through which 
we had come was uninhabited, so it could not have 
been caused by the natives. 

My Borana guides were very anxious to have 
some meat, as they had not tasted any for some 
considerable time. So I set out that evening in 
search of game. It was good policy to treat them 
well, as I wished to exchange many of my trade 

220 



IN SEARCH OF GAME ■ 

goods at the next village for sheep, in order to give 
my men some better food. I saw nothing for a 
while until I emerged into a small open plain 
covered with coarse yellow grass ; a small herd of 
waterbuck were feeding on the far side, and I deter- 
mined to approach them through the bush : the wind 
was favourable, and I was able to get to within 150 
yards without alarming them. There were seven 
in all, one buck and six does, two of which were 
white. It was another bitter disappointment, but I 
refrained from shooting either of the white does, 
and aimed instead at the buck. My first shot was 
a disgraceful one, passing just over his shoulder ; the 
whole herd sprang round in alarm, first running a little 
way forward and then back again, quite at a loss to 
know in what direction safety lay, for they could not 
make me out lying quietly under a bush. I soon 
had another opportunity, of which I took better 
advantage, and brought the buck down with shoulders 
broken. 

Waterbuck are indeed handsome animals, and, 
common though they are, each time I see one I am 
struck afresh by their beauty of form and colouring. 
This one proved very big and heavy in bodily size, 
but his horns were not particularly good, being just 
under 27 inches. In a herd bull it is rare to find 
them much longer than this ; in fact, in British East 
Africa the record is 31^ inches, which compares very 
unfavourably with such gigantic horns as those obtained 
by Mr. F. A. Knowles in Uganda, whose length 
exceed a yard by nearly 2 inches. Although 
waterbuck feed almost entirely on grass, their flesh 
has the reputation of being about the worst of all 
antelopes, and it is most unpleasant to eat, as I have 

221 



THE MSUAKI BUSH 

found many times to my cost. The meat is particu- 
larly tough and stringy, and has in addition a very 
offensive taste. My two Borana, however, were only 
too pleased, and attempted to show me, by rubbing 
their bellies and by other gestures, their delight at 
the thought of the comino- meal. 

The following morning I left Melka Adi as the 
first streak of dawn was showing in the east, and 
following the right-hand bank of the river marched 
at first south and then west. 

The typical alluvial flats so characteristic of the 
country between Melka Dera and Melka Waja had 
given place to grass-covered plains, dotted plentifully 
with little islands of thorn-scrub. A few dom palms 
were conspicuous amidst the acacia trees that hid 
the river from view, and below, in the undergrowth, 
the "msuaki" bush could occasionally be seen. This 
shrub is eagerly sought by the Somali, for from its 
soft and fibrous branches they make their "tooth- 
sticks." No other tribe I have met take greater 
care of their teeth than they, and whenever suitable 
twigs are to be found they will cut small pieces and 
chew the end until it is soft and frayed, which thus 
forms a rough tooth-brush. They will then spend 
hours rubbing and rubbing, until they are satisfied 
that their teeth are clean. 

There were a considerable number of Grevy's 
zebra, waterbuck, Grant's gazelle, oryx and a few 
gerenuk, but I did not wish to shoot until I was 
nearer the village for which I was making. At 
leno;th we left the river, and skirtino- the edsfe of a 
large grass-covered plain soon reached the Borana 
boma to which my guides belonged. It was still 
quite early, so while my tent was being pitched I 

222 



GRANT'S GAZELLE 

sent my headman off to the village to interview the 
chief and to inform him that I wished to see him 
in the afternoon, and went off myself in search of 
game. There was a quantity about, and my quest 
resolved itself into the question of choosing a good 
head. I finally obtained two excellent specimens 
of Grant's gazelle with two well-placed shots. Both 
carried fine horns, so I had them skinned and brought 
back to camp together with all the meat. But since 
I wished to give some to the Borana as well as feed 
my own twenty-four hungry men, I was compelled to 
shoot something else. 

As I was prowling through the bush I caught sight 
of a Grevy's zebra, and I decided to try and bag him, 
as I wanted another complete skin of that species. It 
took me some time to approach sufficiently close, but 
at length I sat down, and was about to pull the trigger 
when he turned round and faced me. Although it 
was a difficult shot, I managed to bring it off, much 
to my delight. On receiving the bullet, the zebra 
made a frantic spurt of about 200 yards, then halted, 
obviously in great distress ; suddenly his legs seemed 
to give way under him, and he fell, never to rise again. 
On examining him I found the bullet had entered the 
left-hand side of the chest, and passing through the 
heart had lodged near the tail, inflicting a terrible 
wound. 

Grevy's zebra are very large animals, standing 
about 58 or 59 inches at the shoulder, and are the 
most highly striped of the whole family. The mane 
is very full, and extends on to the withers, while the 
tail tuft is also large. The ears, too, are peculiar, being 
broad and thickly haired, and thus differ essentially 
from all other zebras. It has been suggested that the 

223 



GREYY'S ZEBRA 

narrowness of the stripes and the large size of the ears 
are adapted to a Hfe partially spent in thin scrub, 
which is their favourite habitat ; but, personally, I have 
always found it very easy to detect them, and 
especially so when in the sunlight, for then their 
glossy coat looks quite white, or if only the shadow 
side is seen, quite black. 

My men were compelled to skin him and cut him 
up on the spot, as he was too awkward a load to put 
on one camel. While this was being done I returned 
to camp, ate a hasty lunch, and then summoned the 
Borana headman, as I wished to know whether he 
was willing to trade, and whether he would supply me 
with guides to take me on to Marti. 



224 



CHAPTER XX 

THE BORANA 

In due course I was visited by the headman of the 
village, accompanied by four elders, bringing with 
them a sheep as a gift to me. After a few words of 
welcome, he began a long and bitter complaint against 
the Abd Wak, who had lately murdered three men of 
his village, and against the Samburu, who were con- 
tinually oppressing them. He said that when the 
British Government undertook to administer this part 
of East Africa, they had been amongst the first to 
submit and to be promised protection. They had 
then moved southward from the Abyssinian border to 
avoid the incessant plundering and raiding to which 
they were continually exposed, but they found their 
present plight even more distressing. Although they 
had laid their case before the officer in charg-e at 
Wajheir, who had promised to redress their wrongs, 
they had received neither help nor protection. In 
reply, I told him I was exceedingly sorry to learn of 
their difficulties, but as I was not a Government 
official I could do nothing, but I suggested they 
should apply to the Commissioner at Meru. It 
appeared, however, that he had attempted to do that, 
but that on the way he had been stopped by a party 
of Samburu warriors who had threatened to kill him 
and his followers unless he returned at once, and 
further promised to exterminate his whole village if 
p 225 



OPEN BUSH COUNTRY 

he ever attempted to pass that way again. I could 
offer him Httle consolation, but it is to be hoped, for 
the credit of our reputation, that some other outlet 
may be found for the energies of the Samburu and 
the Abd Wak. So obsessed was he with his troubles 
that I could get little or no information from him, nor 
was he particularly anxious to trade, and since nearly 
all the male population of the village was away at the 
time, I decided it would be useless to spend much 
time at that place. So I left the following afternoon 
with two guides to take me to the next boma, after I 
had satisfied myself as to the lie of the land and char- 
acter of the surrounding country. 

On the march I saw several herds of waterbuck, 
but though I scanned them carefully through my 
glasses I could not detect any albinos. There were 
a few gazelle and zebra, and a solitary wart-hog 
[Phacachoerus cBthio'picus africanus), which, however, 
carried very poor tusks. The vegetation on the plains 
became more profuse, forming what I should call 
" open bush country," while amongst the various kinds 
of acacia trees that lined the banks of the river, dom 
palms and a species of willow were conspicuous. In 
fact, the landscape presented a much more fertile 
appearance than it had previously. The dreary mud- 
flats, which contributed so largely to the desolate and 
forbidding aspect of the country surrounding the main 
swamp, had disappeared, giving place to extensive 
stretches of land eminently suitable for agriculture. 
The rich alluvial soil seemed admirably adapted to the 
cultivation of cotton, rice and maize, while the forma- 
tion of the country and the character of the river 
would enable irrigation to be carried out without any 
difficulty and at a trifling cost. Who knows but that 

226 



THE TUFI BORANA 

in the years to come Lorian may not be the centre 
of a teeming population engaged in tilHng the soil, 
instead of a lonely swamp, the haunt of the mosquito 
and tsetse fly, seldom visited except by a few nomadic 
tribes ? 

The next Borana boma was reached after a short 
but pleasant march. It proved larger than the one I 
had left, and was the scene of much life and anima- 
tion when I arrived, for the cattle, goats and sheep 
were beinsr driven in to the zariba for the niofht. 
While my tent was being pitched, I walked down to 
the village, inspected the huts and spent a pleasant 
hour watching the inhabitants at their daily tasks. 
They were very friendly and willing to oblige and to 
show me everything I wished to see, but my ignorance 
of their language proved a great difficulty in the way 
of obtaining all the information I sought — a difficulty 
only partially overcome by the efforts of my headman 
and interpreter. 

Both these villages appeared to belong to the 
Tufi Borana, a tribe that may be found in scattered 
communities throughout the country from the Lorian 
to Wajheir and Eil Wak ("the wells of God"). 
They came originally from Abyssinia, their head- 
quarters being the fertile district round Moyale, from 
which they have been driven by their enemies. 
They are a peaceful pastoral people, but faint-hearted, 
although when hard pressed they will show fight. 
Consequently they are continually being plundered 
and harassed by the surrounding tribes. In physique 
they resemble the Somali and the Galla rather than 
the negro. They are light coloured, with not un- 
pleasing features, and of a strong but somewhat 
clumsy build. The women, when they are young, 

227 



BORANA CUSTOMS AND LANGUAGE 

are particularly handsome, and their lithe and graceful 
figures are especially noticeable. 

The Borana are, as a general rule, pagans, although 
many of them have been converted to Mohammedan- 
ism by the Somali. They believe, however, in the 
existence of a Supreme Being (Wak), to whom they 
sacrifice a goat or sheep before undertaking any 
important expedition and going out to war. As 
far as I could gather, they have no conception of, 
or belief in, life after death. Their marriage customs 
are very primitive and rarely include the giving of a 
dowry : they are polygamists, and their conjugal 
morality is very lax. Unlike the Somali, they do 
not practise the rites of circumcision or clitori- 
dectomy ; marriage takes place at a very early age 
(ten or eleven) and the girls undergo no initiation 
ceremony on reaching the age of puberty, as is 
the custom among many uncivilised tribes. 

Their language is unwritten, but it resembles the 
Galla and is not unlike the Somali. In proof of this 
may be adduced the fact that the Somali are able to 
converse easily with both the Galla and Borana after 
a very brief acquaintance — which would be im- 
possible were there not a certain similarity between 
their languages. This, in conjunction with several 
customs common to all three tribes, would appear to 
indicate a common origin, and this is very probably 
the case. 

The Somali look with contempt on the Borana 
and on the Galla, and will not for a moment consider 
this possibility — a narrow and prejudiced view not 
unnatural to a tribe whose ideals consist in a fancied 
superiority over their neighbours. Nothing definite 
can be said on this point, for it requires for its 

228 



BORANA DWELLINGS 

elucidation a far more intimate knowledge of their 
respective languages than we possess at present. It 
is always a very difficult matter for a European to 
converse with such natives, for, unless the words are 
correctly pronounced, they will not try to understand. 
This may be explained perhaps by the fact that, their 
language being unwritten, they can only recognise 
one unvarying pronunciation of a word, and if this 
is departed from, they are not able to recognise it, 
believing it to be in a foreign tongue. This is not 
unnatural, but at the same time it is very irritating. 

Like the Somali, the Tufi Borana are a nomadic 
people ; but they inhabit a less arid region than the 
former and therefore they are not compelled to wander 
so far afield in search of pasture. Moreover, they are 
more sedentary by inclination, and the range of their 
movements is as restricted as the exio-encies of the 
water-supply permit. They will often therefore 
remain in the same locality for weeks and even 
months, so long as there is a sufficiency of feed for 
their cattle, but in spite of this, their huts are of a 
primitive and non-permanent type. 

These dwellings are of a beehive shape, and are 
built by placing over a light framework of branches 
tied tooether with fibre a thick thatching: of dried 
grass, reeds and bush, above which a goat's skin or 
ox-hide is securely lashed. They are not more than 
6 or 7 feet high, and are much more flimsy and 
insecure than the Somali "gurgi." In those that I 
inspected, the fire was on the left-hand side of the 
entrance, and the right-hand portion of the interior 
was reserved for the sleeping apartment ; in the day- 
time, at any rate, there was no division between the 
two parts of the hut. Round each boma there is 

229 



BORANA DRESS 

a high thorn zariba ; just within it these primitive 
shelters are built with the entrance facing inwards, 
while the centre of the boma is divided into a number 
of small pens communicating with each other by a 
flimsy doorway of branches tied at right angles to 
three horizontal posts, which are themselves lashed 
to the walls of the pen by leathern thongs. 

In one corner a heavy stake is driven into the 
ground, to which the cows are tied at mllking-time, 
and near by is a diminutive additional enclosure in 
which the lambs and kids are kept. These very 
curious and interestino- structures resemble nothing^ 
so much as an enormous bird's nest. They are 
circular in shape, approximately 15 feet in diameter, 
built of logs of wood and branches, and lined with 
dry grass and reeds. In them the tiny animals are 
placed, and are taken out every morning and evening, 
one by one, when they are allowed in turn to go to 
their mothers for a short time, after which the latter 
are milked. 

The Borana have adopted a simple but distinctive 
dress. The men wear a loose kind of trouser made 
of white cotton, cut off above the knee, while the 
upper part of the body is covered by a half " tobe " 
of Americani. This may be replaced when resting 
in their village by a single cloth 8 yards in length, 
draped loosely round them. Men of importance and 
heads of families sometimes wear in addition a turban 
made of similar material. 

The Borana are exceedingly fond of bracelets, 
necklaces and similar ornaments. Bracelets are 
simple circular rings, round or triangular In section, 
made of brass or white metal. One man possessed 
one of ivory, carved out from an elephant's tusk, 

230 



BORANA ORNAMENTS 

about half an inch in thickness, but this type does 
not appear to be common. Necklaces vary greatly 
in length and material. Very popular are those com- 
posed of cowrie shells, strung on a piece of fibre or 
gut, often 30 inches in length, which is worn round 
the neck or even carried in the hand. Another form, 
which is highly valued, consists of a series of white 
metal cubes, alternating with crimson or yellow glass 
beads, strung on the hairs taken from the tail of an 
elephant or giraffe. Rings cut from the horn of a 
rhinoceros are also regarded with great favour. All 
these ornaments, and many others of a similar nature, 
are worn by both men and women. The dress of the 
latter is slightly more elaborate than that used by 
the men. I am not quite clear as to the shape and 
number of garments, but they appear to wear a short 
skirt or kilt of white cotton, and a loose bodice of 
the same material draped over the right shoulder and 
under the left arm. In cold weather a long cloth is 
worn like a cape, covering the figure from head to 
foot. The ends of the cloth are worked loose by 
hand, and twisted into a kind of fringe. Being, 
unlike the Somali, indescribably filthy in their 
personal habits, the white cotton they wear soon 
becomes a dirty and unpleasing brown. 

The weapons carried by the men consist of a 
spear, 8 or 9 feet long, with a broad-leafed iron blade, 
with high median ridge, but blunt and clumsily 
forged, and also of a bow and arrows in a quiver, and 
a short knife. The general appearance of the bow 
and quiver is very similar to that used by the Somali 
hunter, except that the latter has no cap. Attached 
to the quiver is a bag of beautifully dressed goatskin 
(8 inches long by 6 inches deep), deep red in colour 

231 



BORANA WEAPONS 

owing to the bark they employ for tanning, and con- 
taining a miscellaneous collection of small articles. In 
the one I examined were the following objects : — 

1. Tip of an ox-horn, hollowed out and containing a small 

piece of coloured trading cloth — probably a charm. 

2. A small lump of hard black gum, said to be poison for 

their arrows, obtained at Moyale. 

3. A few feathers. 

4. Some fibre and gut for mending bow or arrow. 

5. Two long rusty nails. 

6. Two fire-sticks (attached outside). 

The quiver itself was a hollow wooden tube, ex- 
panding symmetrically from the middle to either end, 
with a cap of ox-hide shrunk on to one extremity, and 
impressed with a simple linear pattern. The middle 
was wrapped round with a broad piece of tanned 
goatskin fastened securely by two thongs. To it 
was attached a band for carrying, and a rough sheath 
for a slender knife. In the quiver were two un- 
finished and four finished arrows complete with loose 
iron heads thickly smeared with poison. I did not 
see any shields. The Borana use their weak bow 
with great skill ; moreover, they keep innumerable 
native dogs for hunting purposes, and it is remarkable 
how quickly these animals will bring an antelope 
down or hold a large beast at bay until their masters 
can dispatch it. 

Their household utensils are few in number, and 
in many respect? resemble those used by the Somali. 
One of the most striking is the "han," or water 
vessel, which is ovoid in shape, and constructed of 
tightly woven fibre with a deep and neatly fitting cap. 
The inside is well smoked, and the outside is usually 
decorated with rows of cowrie shells strung on fibre. 

232 




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HOUSEHOLD UTENSILS 

It is carried in an elaborate network of leather 
thongs. Another interesting utensil is the milk-pail, 
made from a single piece of giraffe skin cleverly sewn 
together with a loop of the same leather on one side. 
This is also thoroughly well smoked and greased, 
so that it becomes quite watertight, and will last a 
lifetime. When full to the brim, it holds seven pints 
of milk, all but a few ounces. Their "herios" or 
camel mats compare unfavourably with those made 
by the Somali in quality, as also do their knives, 
spears and sandals and the forked stick they use for 
making or pulling apart the zariba. They do not 
appear to be in the habit of wearing hair combs, and 
I did not see any ghee spoons. They often carry 
about with them, when near their village, a piece of 
undressed ox-hide (which is therefore stiff and hard), 
and this they use as a kind of screen or shelter from 
the wind, which is often cold and damp at night. I 
have never observed this among the Somali. 

The Borana are amongst the richest cattle-owners 
in British East Africa, being second only to the 
Masai ; they possess a few camels and donkeys, upon 
which they pack their belongings when moving from 
one locality to another. In addition, they own vast 
flocks of fat-rumped sheep and large herds of goats. 
But they will rarely kill any of their stock for food, 
their principal diet being milk. I was told by my 
headman that when one of their cattle is ill and likely 
to die, they will cut its throat and eagerly drink the 
blood as it pours forth, but as I never saw it done I 
cannot vouch for the truth of this statement. They 
are, however, extremely fond of "buni " when they can 
get it, which is seldom : they told me that there was 
a certain berry that grew in abundance in the Moyale 

233 



AGRICULTURE AND TRADING 

district, which, when cooked in the same way as coffee, 
gives them almost equal satisfaction. 

Of labour, then, around a Borana boma there is 
but little — no tilling of the soil, no searching for roots 
or wild plants and seldom any cooking. While the 
men spend their days in hunting or idling, the women 
keep guard over the cattle when they are grazing, 
and the boys and girls tend the sheep and goats. 
From what I could gather, I am of opinion that these 
Tufi Borana are an inferior race to, or perhaps even 
an outcast tribe of, the true Borana, who inhabit 
southern Abyssinia. I am unable to speak with 
authority on the subject, as I have not had the oppor- 
tunity of studying the latter, but such at least is my 
impression. When the habits and customs of both 
these people have been further investigated by future 
travellers, it will be of extreme interest to learn their 
relationship and to know more of their primitive 
customs, which are fast dying out before the spread 
of Islam. 

I spent two days at this village, and during the 
whole of that time trading went on continually. As 
a result of this incessant bargaining, I found myself 
the possessor of fifteen sheep, which would provide 
my men with food, I hoped, until I reached Archer's 
Post or even Meru. Had I had a few more of the 
white metal bracelets and cubes, I should have done 
better; for so anxious were they to obtain them, that 
for 250 cubes (value at the coast about 50 cents), 
they would give me a nice fat sheep, and my little 
stock of 2000 went almost immediately. The glass 
beads I had were not reoarded with much favour, a 
new shade having become all the fashion, but cowrie 
shells and Americani sold fairly steadily, and I was 

234 



AMUSEMENT AND SURPRISE 

able to buy seven more sheep and various objects of 
ethnological interest with them. 

Before I left I gave the chief men presents, con- 
sisting of tobacco and "buni," with which they were 
delighted, and the women perfume, beads and shells. 
The whole village collected outside my tent in the 
best of humour, and roars of laughter broke out at the 
slightest provocation. Great amusement was caused 
by my camera, and especially by my clothes, which 
must have seemed to them particularly absurd in com- 
parison with their loose, flowing garments. They 
crowded round me when I showed them a book con- 
taining photographs of elephants, giraffes and other 
game with which they were familiar, and as they 
recognised each animal as I turned the pages, they 
pointed excitedly at it with their fingers, and broke 
out into cries of astonishment and surprise. It was 
an animated and entertaining scene, but there was 
nothing vulgar in their curiosity, only a naive interest 
and a childlike simplicity which completely disarms 
criticism. There is always much that is sym- 
pathetic, much that is attractive in the primitive 
savages who people the remote corners of the earth. 
But how quickly these qualities disappear on the 
advent of the missionary and the civilisation he brings 
with him ! 

I dismissed them at last, having made arrange- 
ments with the headman of the village to provide a 
guide who was to lead me as far as Marti Plateau ; 
and I went to bed that nig-ht relieved of a oreat 
anxiety with regard to the food supply for my men. 
For now, even if I did not meet any other natives, 
I should have sufficient for myself and my followers 
until I reached the outskirts of civilisation. 

235 



CHAPTER XXI 

MARTI PLATEAU 

It was still pitch dark as the last camel was loaded, 
and the long string of patient animals moved slowly 
away from the warm light of the camp fires into the 
night beyond. Countless stars shone from a clear 
sky, and the Southern Cross was clearly visible above 
the horizon. The guide led the way at a smart pace 
through the open bush, for a chilly wind was blowing 
from the north over the river, and the dampness 
of the atmosphere made it difficult to keep warm. 
When dawn broke, and the surrounding country took 
shape, I found myself on an open plain bounded on 
the right-hand side by a tall line of trees that grew 
along the river bank ; it was covered with a luxurious 
growth of grass and small broad-leaved plants, bearing 
a quantity of yellow fiowers. There was but little 
bush, and the ground seemed very rich and even more 
fertile than at Melka Gela. I was told that durinof 
the rains it becomes somewhat swampy, and impass- 
able for camels, who are helpless in the mud. 

As the light grew stronger, it revealed in the 
distance the striking outlines of Marti Plateau, whose 
sides rose precipitously from the bush that surrounded 
its base up to its broad and perfectly level summit. 
Its dark colour, due to the volcanic rock of which it 
is composed, formed a sombre background against 
which the vivid greens of the bush and the grove of 

236 



A RELUCTANT GUIDE 

dom palms showed very brilliantly. While I was 
looking round with my glasses, I caught sight of a 
half-grown rhinoceros about a quarter of a mile away ; 
he had, however, got our wind, and after staring 
fixedly in our direction for some seconds, he turned 
away, and breaking into a fast trot, he soon dis- 
appeared. My guide now declared that he did not 
wish to proceed any farther. He said that since 
Marti was in sight we did not need a guide, but, as I 
wished to explore the plateau and should be therefore 
obliged to cross the river, I insisted that he should 
keep to the promise he made the night before, and 
accompany me at any rate to a ford I had been told 
of some three miles to the east of the mountain. He 
seemed very ill at ease, but at length agreed to do so 
in return for a considerable sum in cloth and tobacco, 
which I naturally refused to give him until our 
arrival. 

We went on again after this discussion, but as we 
were passing through a narrow belt of bush the guide 
suddenly bolted in the direction of the river. Though 
much annoyed I decided not to send any one after him, 
as I did not wish to waste any more time than I could 
help, for Marti lay a good twelve miles ahead. I have 
no idea why he was so anxious to return — so anxious 
indeed that he was willing to forfeit what must have 
appeared to him a large sum of money, which he 
would have earned had he accompanied me but a 
few miles farther. It is often impossible to follow the 
working of a native's mind : his life Is so bound up 
with convention and superstition, that his actions are 
often Incomprehensible to us. 

However, I went on again, leading the way over 
the soft brown earth due west towards Marti. Rain 

237 



A MONOTONOUS MARCH 

must have fallen a short time before, for the ground 
was slippery with mud ; the sun poured down, the 
wind had dropped and the heat became terribly 
oppressive. Moreover, I was now approaching the 
river again and had entered a patch of dense bush, 
which not only rendered progress slow and exhausting, 
but deprived the scene of its previous interest, leaving 
it monotonous and wearisome beyond expression. 
Hour followed hour without any incident to enliven 
the march ; I ate a hurried lunch of bread and meat, 
which I had in my saddle-bags, without stopping to 
rest, and I began to despair of ever reaching my 
destination, when suddenly I emerged from the bush 
into a little plain, which lay in a bend of the river, 
and beyond the tall fringe of dom palms the dark 
mass of Marti Plateau loomed impressive and close 
at hand. 

My tent was soon pitched, and while everything 
was being put in order I walked down to the river. 
As I crossed the plain I noticed some old buffalo 
spoor, and a small herd of waterbuck feeding on its 
farther edge, but I had plenty of meat, so I did not 
disturb them. As soon as I entered the grove of 
palms I found a steep bank in front of me, down 
which I climbed. After the brilliant sunlight outside, 
it seemed quite dark and deliciously cool within, but 
as my eyes grew accustomed to the gloom, I was 
struck with the beauty of the scene. The tall smooth 
trunks of the dom palms rose in serried ranks, crowned 
with tufts of feathery branches which grew in such 
profusion that they enclosed the undergrowth below 
in perpetual shade. Near the river bank a few 
mimosas and some small shrubs filled in the spaces 
between the palms, and through their delicate foliage 

238 



THE UASO NYIRO— BABOONS 

appeared the rich brown of the slowly moving water 
below, and above the pale blue of the tropical sky. 
The incessant hum of mosquitoes and other insects 
sounded not unpleasantly, and only seemed to intensify 
the drowsy stillness of that enchanting spot. Coming 
as it did after months of travel through an arid and 
jungle-covered country, across desert plain and un- 
healthy swamp under a burning sun, this scene of 
beauty and of peace made a deep impression on me, 
and I was loth to leave it. At length, however, I 
made my way alone down to the edge of the river, 
and there lay down in comfort and enjoyed a pleasant 
hour of rest after the hard march we had accomplished 
that morning. 

The Uaso Nyiro, which is about 150 feet broad at 
this point, flowed calmly and slowly between low 
banks. The deep mud-coloured water showed scarcely 
a ripple on its surface, except where a few tiny sand- 
bars and patches of reeds broke the smooth monotony 
of its course. 

I had fallen almost asleep, soothed by the silence 
and peace of the surrounding scene, when I was 
startled by a loud chattering and barking a few yards 
up-stream. I got up quietly, and on peering through 
the bushes caught sight of a troop of baboons making 
their way down to the water's edge. They had been 
jumping from tree-top to tree-top, but now had come 
down and were walking through the undergrowth, 
led by an old male. Some were playing or quarrelling, 
others searching for food, but all were heading for the 
river. The little wind there was was blowing up 
towards them, so they soon became aware of my 
presence. Immediately a babel of alarmed cries 
broke out, and they leaped back into the bush and 

239 



HAWEYAH HUNTERS 

up into the branches. But recovering from their 
momentary panic, they climbed down as low as they 
dared, and crowding together, they growled and 
barked at me ; each time I approached they dis- 
appeared into the topmost branches or hurled them- 
selves with extraordinary recklessness and skill from 
tree to tree, but as soon as they saw I was not 
following them their curiosity got the better of their 
fear, and they returned, chattering and screaming, 
to growl defiance at the intruder. They looked for- 
midable enough, especially the old males with their 
enormous teeth bared in impotent fury, but at last 
they made off, jumping from tree-top to tree-top until 
their frightened chattering died away in the distance, 
and silence fell once more upon the bush. 

It was time too that I should return to camp, and 
so, regretfully, I turned my back on the river, and 
walked slowly through the grove of dom palms out 
into the little plain. The shadows were lengthening 
as I reached my tent, and the sun was sinking below 
Marti, softening its outline with its golden light and 
tinging with opalescent hues the low-lying mist that 
hung above the river. While I was having supper, 
my headman came up to inform me that the syces, who 
had been on guard over the camels, had met and 
brought into camp two Haweyah hunters. I told him 
to bring them before me, as I thought that they might 
be very useful as guides if I could persuade them to 
go with me. They appeared at length — one well on 
in years, the other about thirty — and stood in front of 
my table in the dim circle of light cast by my lamp. 

They seemed very nervous and ill at ease, and 
glanced first at the uniform of my askaris and then 
at me with evident apprehension. So I ordered "buni" 

240 



THE HAWEYAH 

to be prepared for them, and while waiting for it I 
began questioning them about the country and so on. 
By their answers I soon discovered the cause of their 
uneasiness. They took me for the Game Ranger, and 
were afraid I was going to punish them, although they 
declared they had not killed anything for months. 
They were obviously very much relieved when they 
found out their mistake, and agreed willingly enough 
to act as my guides during the next few days, although 
they said they had never worked for a white man before. 
They refused to name any price for their services, 
preferring to trust to my generosity when we parted. 
After they had drunk the "buni," I had a most in- 
teresting talk with them through my interpreter. 

The Haweyah, though not true Somali, resemble 
them very closely, and it would be difficult for a 
stranger to detect any difference. They are inhabitants 
of the Benadir coast, and the northern parts of the 
interior of Italian Somaliland. It was to them that 
Ismail Juberti, the ancestor of the Somali, first applied 
for shelter and protection, according to native accounts, 
when he was wrecked along their inhospitable coast, 
and, his requests being refused, he was obliged to 
wander southwards until he met the Dirr, another 
tribe inhabiting those regions. This may partly 
account for the contempt displayed towards the 
Haweyah by the Somali. Many of them have been 
driven westwards from the Benadir coast and have 
taken refuge among the Borana and the Gabra, but 
whatever their present position is, it is almost certain 
that Somali and Haweyah are descended from a 
common stock. 

I questioned them about the Maanthinle, that 
mysterious tribe known by hearsay to all the dwellers 
Q 241 



A MYSTERIOUS TRIBE 

in the Horn of Africa, but which have now completely 
disappeared, leaving no trace except their name, and 
a few cairns of stone. They told me there were 
still many legends concerning them, but they had 
disappeared long before the present inhabitants had 
entered the country. They said that there were 
many graves and many pools cut into the rock, which 
were made by the Maanthinle, in northern Jubaland, 
and that they thought that they had been a race of 
giants. To my question as to what they imagined 
had happened to them, they replied that it was 
believed that these people had done evil and had 
ceased to sacrifice to their god, at which the latter 
was so displeased that he sent a plague of bees 
which killed some and drove the rest out of the 
country. 

They had by now quite forgotten the uneasiness 
they had shown at the beginning of our interview, 
and, stimulated perhaps by the "buni," they revealed 
to me much that was interesting, and described their 
daily life in detail, telling the story in their own way 
with many a picturesque simile and many a quaint 
but illuminating phrase. The sole weapon of these 
hunters is a small bow, shooting arrows of which 
the tips are covered with a powerful vegetable poison. 
They will search for days, perhaps for weeks, until 
they have discovered a water-hole or salt lick, where 
their quarry comes regularly. Then with infinite 
precaution on some moonlit night they make their 
way to within a few feet of the trail by which the 
elephant or rhinoceros is expected to approach the 
water. Crouched under a bush they wait in breath- 
less silence until some faint noise, inaudible perhaps 
except to them, is heard above the whispering of 

242 



A PICTUEE OF NATIVE LIFE 

the trees and the myriad indefinable sounds that 
together make up the stillness of a tropical night. 
So noiseless is his approach that the giant form of 
their quarry looms up almost before they are prepared 
for him, but as he passes by, a few feet, maybe only 
a few inches, away, they fire their arrows into his 
side and then seem to melt into the bush as if by 
magic. The stricken animal halts and then, turning, 
dashes back, crashing through the jungle. Gradually 
the sounds die away and silence once more reigns 
supreme. But dawn rarely fails to reveal to the 
eager searchers the dead body of the animal not far 
away. A brush shelter is erected near by, their few 
possessions are transferred from their last camping 
place, and here they will remain as long as the meat 
lasts. If they fail to kill they are compelled to 
subsist entirely on roots and berries until success 
again crowns their efforts. 

It is difficult for us to realise what such a life 
means, surrounded as we are by all those things 
which they lack and which civilisation has made so 
easy of attainment ; but on that occasion, helped no 
doubt by the picturesque surroundings in which the tale 
was told, they drew such a vivid picture of their life, 
revealing, unintentionally no doubt, all its hardships, 
its excitements, and its primitive simplicity, that I 
seemed to understand and appreciate it in all its 
completeness. I was sorry when our conversation 
ended and it was time to go to bed, but I determined 
to renew it, if I could, on another occasion. 

All the following day was spent in examining and 
mapping the country to the south of Marti, ac- 
companied by the elder of the hunters, while the 
other guide led the caravan to the nearest ford, 

243 



MAPPING OUT THE COUNTRY 

where camp was made. This would enable me to 
reach the summit of Marti, explore the plateau and 
return on the same day. Meanwhile I worked hard, 
and covered a considerable amount of country. By 
climbing a few isolated little hills, which rose some 
150 feet above the plains, I was able to sketch in 
the main landmarks on my plane table, but it was 
not possible to fix the course of the river with any 
accuracy from the south, as it was hidden by bush 
and palm trees. I reached camp very late, and, while 
waiting for supper, shot an old male baboon with 
enormous canine teeth. It appeared that a large 
troop had come down at midday, but on seeing my 
men had fled in alarm, but this particular baboon 
had remained behind, and had sat round camp, 
always within 100 yards or so, and had barked and 
roared defiance incessantly all through the afternoon. 
He was quite the largest specimen I have seen, so 
I was glad to add him to my collection. 

I was awakened the next morning by the grunting 
of a lion, but by the time I was up and dressed, it 
had ceased. I soon came upon its spoor not 200 
yards from camp, and easily followed the pug marks 
for about a mile, until I lost them completely on a 
somewhat stony piece of ground. As the river was 
left, the surface became gradually harder, so that it 
was useless to continue the search. I turned back 
again, and marched along the southern bank for 
nearly an hour, when the guide told me that we had 
reached a oood ford where we could cross with ease. 
So I turned to my right and, passing through a thick 
belt of bush, entered the dom palms, following a little 
path that led down to the river's edge. I was again 
vividly impressed with the beauty of the scene, which 

244 




An Observation Station on Marti Plateau 

The two natives were Haweyah hunters who were my companions during my exploration of the 
Lorian and Marti Plateau. 



CROSSING THE UASO NYIRO 

resembled that which I had so enjoyed two days 
before. The early morning sun was casting long 
shadows across the rather muddy waters, a wonderful 
variety of trees overhung the banks, while towering 
above them the giant mimosa and slender dom palms 
showed wonderfully green and delicate against the 
pale blue sky. 

Taking off my boots and putties, I got on to my 
mule, and plunged down the slippery bank into the 
river, after taking the precaution of firing a couple 
of shots into the water to scare away any possible 
crocodiles. The Uaso Nyiro, near Marti, attains its 
greatest development, being just under 200 feet in 
breadth, but at the point where I crossed it, it was 
barely two feet deep. It did not therefore take me 
long to reach the northern bank, up which I clambered, 
and found myself immediately in another grove of 
dom palms. Through this I made my way, and 
emerged on to a flat and muddy plain scarcely a 
mile across, which divides the river from the mountain. 
Having reached the foot of the latter, I left the mule 
and started on the steep climb that lay before me. 

The sides of Marti are clothed with small stunted 
trees, and many varieties of euphorbia, while the 
ground is composed of loose volcanic rock. Every 
step therefore requires care, for a fall would be 
attended with unpleasant consequences from the 
thorns and sharp pointed rocks. After three-quarters 
of an hour, however, I reached the edge of the plateau, 
which is formed by a ring of bare volcanic rock, and 
sat down with my glasses to have a look round. The 
view was disappointing, for there was a thick mist in 
spite of the strong wind that was blowing, which 
rendered the course of the river and the distant hills 

245 



THE MARTI PLATEAU 

hazy and indistinct. The Uaso Nyiro, I discovered, 
flows through a broad, shallow valley of which Marti 
forms the northern edge, and which is bounded on the 
south by a low line of hills. About twenty miles to 
the west I could just make out some more hills, which, 
the guide informed me, we should pass on our way to 
Archer's Post. At this corner of the plateau, which 
forms the summit of the most earterly spur of Marti, 
I took observations for local time and latitude, and 
completed the sketch that I had been working on ; I 
then went on and rapidly explored the tableland to 
the north-west. Kilima-ya-Mesa/ as Marti is called 
by Swahili-speaking natives, is the only mountain 
deserving the name between this place and the Indian 
Ocean, and forms an unmistakable landmark. 

The river which flows towards it from the south- 
east, turns east, closely following its base, and then, 
having left it behind, north-east. It is volcanic in 
origin and rises abruptly from the river bank to a 
height of 1607 feet, or 603 above the surrounding 
country. The summit, as I have mentioned before, 
consists of a plateau higher on the eastern edge and 
roughly oval in shape, the long axis of which runs due 
east and west, and is about eighteen miles in diameter. 
The whole is covered with dense scrub o-rowino- from 
a rich, soft soil, and there were many small pools of 
rain-water hidden away in the bush. I noticed the 
spoor of greater and lesser kudu and rhino while 
crossing the plateau, but saw no game. It was late 
before I had finished my work and reached the ford 
once more. The river was crossed without incident, 
and camp was safely reached shortly after dark. 

^ Table Mountain. 
246 



CHAPTER XXII 

THE GAME ANIMALS OF JUBALAND 

Before leaving Jubaland and the Lorian, and entering 
on the narrative of the closing stages of my journey, 
it would seem appropriate to give some account of the 
game animals to be found between the coast and 
Marti plateau, to examine briefly any differences or 
peculiarities that may distinguish them from those 
found in other parts of the Protectorate, to notice how 
far they are influenced by climate and physical condi- 
tions, and incidentally to glance at their distribution 
throughout that large area. 

If the dense character of the bush that covers the 
greater part of southern Jubaland and the lack of 
water are remembered, it will readily be seen that 
only those bush-loving animals which are more or less 
independent of a plentiful supply of water, will be 
found inhabitinor the reg-ions where such conditions 
prevail. In addition, on the open stretches near the 
coast, and on the alluvial plains near the Lorian 
Swamps, zebra. Grant's gazelle and a few other of the 
more characteristic plain-dwellers will be seen. 

Of the larger game, buffalo, rhinoceros and lion 
are very scarce, but there is a small herd of buffalo in 
the tsetse-infested jungle in the south-east of the 
Biskayia district, which is known to the natives under 
the name of Wama Iddu (sandy swamp), and from 
time to time I came across the pug marks of a lion in 
Joreh, where game is more or less plentiful. Leopards 

247 



LAUGE HERDS OF ELEPHANTS 

are exceedingly common in the bush near the coast. 
They are, as any one who has hunted them knows, 
very hard to see, and in Jubaland this is especially so, 
owing to the dense undergrowth. They appear to live 
chiefly on dik-dik, which are very numerous everywhere. 

Elephants are by no means uncommon in certain 
districts during the rainy season. In Guranlagga I 
saw a great deal of spoor. Some large herds had 
trekked throug-h, oroino- westward durinq- the last 
rains ; they had probably been disturbed in the jungle 
near the Juba River, and were travelling across 
country to the Tana River, by way of the Deshek 
Wama. In Joreh and Kurde they are rare, but in 
the dense tropical forests near the Arnoleh River, and 
throughout the almost limitless stretches of acacia 
scrub and wait-a-bit thorn, they are to be found in 
considerable numbers, so long as the water-supply 
has not given out completely. They appear to trek 
eastwards from the Lorian and the Tana when the 
rains begin, and to return westwards when they cease. 
Judging from careful observations and accurate mea- 
surements of a considerable number of footprints, I 
am led to the belief that the bodily size of the bulls 
is slightly smaller than that of the average East 
African elephant ; but it must be remembered that 
bodily size is by no means a certain indication of the 
weight of the tusks. The tusks are notoriously small 
in the case of elephants found near the coast, but 
farther west, in the interior, and near the middle Tana, 
they are much larger. 

The giraffe which inhabits Jubaland has been 
regarded as a distinct species, and is generally referred 
to as the Somali or "netted" giraffe {Giraffa reticu- 
lata), although its colour pattern is merely an extreme 

248 



NETTED GIRAFFE 

development of that of the Nubian race of the 
ordinary species. It is found as far north as Somali- 
land and inhabits the Lake Rudolf district and the 
northern parts of British East Africa. The bulls 
have a dark liver-coloured coat, divided into irreeu- 
larly shaped, but generally quadrangular patches, by 
a network of coarse white lines. On the head itself 
the marking changes to round chestnut spots on a 
yellow ground, but the back of the ears and the lower 
part of the legs below the knees are white. In some 
cases the sides of the face are also white. The cows, 
however, are of a paler hue, the general colour being 
more of a creamy brown. The centres of the dark 
liver-coloured patches are often almost black, but in a 
few animals the centres are white or yellowish white. 
I have in my possession the skin of a very young 
Somali giraffe that had been killed by a leopard, 
which shows very clearly this peculiarity, the centres 
of the dark patches, especially round the withers, 
being white and star-shaped. In young animals of 
both sexes the colour is a pale fawn. The unpaired 
horn on the forehead is moderately developed and 
the two anterior are very small. The young have 
dark tufts of hair where the horns subsequently grow. 
Although somewhat narrow, the ears are moderately 
large ; the muzzle is broad and hairy with long slit- 
like nostrils, while the tongue is long and extensile. 
The neck and withers are maned, and the tail is long 
and covered with coarse black hairs. When giraffes 
are running they nearly always carry their tails twisted 
up above their backs, a habit that adds to their some- 
what quaint and ungainly appearance. In spite of 
their enormous length of neck, they are unable to 
drink without straddling their front legs wide apart, 

249 



HAUNTS or THE SOMALI GIRAFFE 

and to see them satisfying their thirst at a water-hole 
is a curious sio-ht. 

The Somali giraffe is found in astonishing numbers 
throughout Jubaland, for the character of the country 
in the interior is especially adapted to their habits. 
They prefer, as a rule, those regions that are only 
thinly covered with scrub. Occasionally, however, 
they may be found in very dense bush, and on these 
occasions it is astonishing how difficult they are to see. 
I saw about 280 in all, of which the greater number 
were In the districts of Joreh, Arroga and Rama Gudi ; 
and in the thorn country to the west of Marti 
Mountain they were also exceedingly plentiful. 

Of the antelopes found in Jubaland there is none 
that yields a finer trophy than the arrola, or Hunter's 
hartebeeste. A full description of this interesting 
animal will be found in Chapter X, so it is unnecessary 
for me to refer to them here at greater length. 

An almost equal interest attaches to the race of 
Grant's gazelle inhabiting the coastal region of Juba- 
land north of the Arnoleh River. In The Game 
Animals of Africa, by Mr, R. Lydekker, F.R.S., it 
is stated on the authority of Mr. O. Neumann that 
Grant's gazelle is not found within 1 50 miles of the 
sea, its place there being taken by the closely allied 
form, Peter's gazelle. I was therefore much pleased 
at obtaining, near Eyladera, a specimen of Grant's 
gazelle that differed in certain essential points both 
from G. peter si and from G. g. brighti. In size it 
approximates closely to Peter's gazelle, being about 
50 lb. lighter than Bright's, while the horns are short 
and straight as in the former. The white rump patch, 
however, is extremely large, intruding deeply into the 
fawn colour of the back and completely surrounding 

250 



GRANT'S GAZELLE 

the tail, which is white. The lower part of the rump 
patch is edged with broad and conspicuous black 
markings, while the dark black band is absent both in 
the young and in the fully adult, and the body colour 
is much paler than in either of the two other forms. 

These points are important as showing the differ- 
ence between it and Petersi, in which the fawn colour 
of the back extends down the tail, thus dividing the 
rump patch into two parts. In my opinion the latter 
animal is not found much further north than the Tana, 
and does not extend into the district of Biskayia. At 
the Lorian, however, Brighti were found in consider- 
able numbers, and I was able to obtain three good 
specimens from that region. In the following table I 
have given the essential characteristics of three out 
of the eip'ht races of Grant's P"azelle found in East 
Africa. The Petersi were originally described in 
1884 as a distinct species, but now it is generally 
regarded merely as a race of the true Grant. 

Grant's gazelle are found on open plains in deserts, 
and on stony hills, even where one would imagine 
there was not enough feed to keep a mouse alive. 
They appear to be almost independent of water, and 
it is certain that for months at a time the only moisture 
they can obtain is the little that is contained in the 
grasses on which they feed, but they are usually more 
plentiful near a permanent water-supply. They are 
often seen in company with Coke's hartebeeste, or 
topi, and not infrequently with zebra. They may be 
found in herds varying in size from three or four to 
twenty and upwards. 

Of antelopes in Jubaland the most important are 
the lesser kudu, the topi, the oryx beisa and the 
gerenuk. The lesser kudu {Strepsiceros imberbis) is 

251 



ANTELOPES 

quite common in the districts of Joreh and Kurde. 
It is found in fairly dense bush where there is a 
certain quantity of aloes, of which it is particularly 
fond. But they are by no means easy animals to bag, 



TABLE SHOWING THE MAIN DIFFERENCES BETWEEN FOUR 
RACES OF GRANT'S GAZELLE 











No. 4. 




No. I. 


No. 2. 


No. 3. 


New Race on the 




Granti iypica. 


G. g. brighti. 


G. g. Peter si. 


Coast of Juba- 
land. 


Bodily size . 


Large 


Medium 


Small (32") 


Small (30") 


Flank bands 


Faint 


Absent 


Faint 


Absent 


Body colour 


Rich fawn 


Paie fawn 


Rich fawn with 
reddish tints 


Very pale buff 


Horns . 


Lyrate, long and 


Shorter and 


Almost straight 


Short and 




slender (30I") 


straighterthan 
in No. I 


and short 


straight, simi- 
lar to No. 3 


Rump patch 


The white in- 


White intrudes 


Rump patch di- 


Similar to No. 2, 




cludes practi- 


deeply into 


vided into two 


but white in- 




cally all the 


fawn of back, 


parts by the ex- 


trudes even 




tail ; only a 


completely 


tension of the 


more into 




short spur of 


surrounding 


fawn on the 


fawn of back. 




the fawn ex- 


tail; dark 


back, which 


Black bands 




tending on to 


band to this 


continues a- 


to this patch 




its base 


patch well- 


long upper 


broad and well 






nigh obsolete 


surface of tail 


marked 


Tail . 


Fawn above, 
white below 


White 


Fawn above, 
white below 


White 



as it is almost impossible to avoid making a noise 
when walking through the jungle. In fact, to bring 
them to bag often requires many days of hard and 
continuous tracking. 

The topi [Damalisctis corrigtun jimela), typically 
from the Juba district, but ranging as far south as the 
Sabaki River, appears to differ from the true topi, or 

252 



TOPI AND ORYX 

korrlgum, by its browner colour, the absence of the 
dark-eye stripe and the smaller tuft. It is of a dark 
reddish-brown colour with a silk-like slate-grey gloss ; 
on the shoulders and thighs there are blue-black 
patches, with a dark brown glaze on the face. The 
under parts are bright chestnut and the tail tuft black. 
They stand about 4 feet at the shoulder and are of a 
heavy, clumsy build. The muzzle is broad and the 
skull of medium length without the horn pedicle 
characteristic of the true hartebeeste. The horns 
are of a simple lyrate shape, with their tips inclined 
backwards and inwards. Neither the topi nor Grant's 
gazelle are found in the interior of Jubaland, 

As regards the oryx, I found them plentiful near 
the coast and again near the Lorian Swamp. They 
have been separated from the typical oryx beisa of 
the Red Sea littoral and Somaliland on account of 
the deeper and more reddish colour of the upper parts, 
and the presence of a brownish tinge on the white of 
the limbs, and are known to naturalists under the 
name of Oryx beisa annectans^ They are found 
throughout the northern part of East Africa, their 
place being taken near Kilimanjaro and in the country 
south of the Tana by an allied form known as the 
fringed-eared oryx ((9. b. callotis). In this race the 
ears, which are narrow and pointed, are surmounted 
by conspicuous tufts of long black hairs, while the 
face markings are of a deep fawn colour instead of 
black, and there are no black bands on the front of 
the forelegs below the knee. The skin of these 
animals is much prized by the natives on account of 
its extraordinary thickness on the neck and shoulders. 
This peculiarity, however, is confined to the males, 
and may have been developed as a protection against 

253 



GERENUK AND DIK-DIK 

their sharp, spear-like horns when they are fighting 
one another. It is interesting to note that their 
SomaH name is " biid " (plural, "biida"), and not, as 
it is given in most books, "beid," or " beida." 

Gerenuk [Litkocranius walleri) are, with the dik- 
dik, the most common animals in Jubaland. Wherever 
strictly desert conditions prevail, gerenuk are found 
in twos and threes, feeding like goats on the leaves 
or young shoots of the acacia scrub, or wait-a-bit 
thorn. I have seen them in places at least eighty miles 
from water, and they are apparently unaffected by 
the sun, as they may be observed feeding and moving 
about at all times of the day regardless of the heat. 
They often associate with oryx and sometimes with 
topi. On the whole I did not find them shy, and 
it was generally easy to bag one, when meat was 
required. 

As I mentioned above, dik-dik [Madoqua kirkii) 
are extremely numerous throughout Jubaland, and 
this is especially the case in the sandhills near the 
coast. I was able to bring back six specimens of 
these little animals, and compared them carefully 
with the type-specimens at the British Museum, but 
though they all exhibited slight differences in size of 
skull, there was no marked deviation from the type 
of Kirk's dik-dik, even in those I shot in the interior 
of Jubaland. From a sporting point of view they 
are somewhat uninteresting, but the study of their 
habits and the sight of their dainty forms, and ex- 
quisite grace of movement, was a never-failing source 
of pleasure to me. In all the larger animals the 
effects of scanty grazing and the severe physical con- 
ditions of the country they inhabit are shown in their 
small bodily size and horn measurement, and this is 

254 



GREYY'S ZEBRA 

especially noticeable in the topi. I shot several speci- 
mens of the latter, but although the length of horns in 
some cases reached over 19 inches, their basal girth 
was insignificant compared with those I had seen from 
the Loita Plains farther west. 

The southern form of Grevy's zebra {E. grevyi) 
is met with throughout the Lorian district and 
northern Jubaland, the stripes being pure black on 
a white ground. It would be interesting to know 
where this race changes into the Somaliland Grevy's 
zebra {^E. grevyi be7'berensis\ of which there is an 
excellent specimen in the British Museum, whose 
stripes are a deep rich brown on a cream ground. I 
was very much surprised to see it stated, the other 
day, in an article on northern Jubaland, that these 
zebra are generally to be found in waterless regions. 
This is the opposite of what my observations had led 
me to believe, and I think that the majority of those 
who have had the opportunity of closely observing 
its habits will agree with me in saying that though it 
is sometimes met with in semi-arid districts, there is 
generally water somewhere near, and that it drinks, 
if not every day, at any rate every second or third 
day. In the interior of southern Jubaland, where 
desert conditions attain their maximum development, 
zebra are totally absent, but on the Dibayu Plain, 
and southwards through Joreh, there are a certain 
number of a much smaller species of zebra closely 
akin to those found on the Athi Plains {^E. burchelli 
granti). There are, however, important differences 
between these two races, which I have attempted to 
set forth in the following table, since the specimen I 
obtained appears to be a new race, and its comparison 
with Grant's zebra may therefore be of interest. 

255 



YULTUmNE GUINEA FOWL 

The description of the Grant's zebra was taken 
from a specimen shot by myself on the Athi Plains, 
on a former visit to British East Africa. 





No. I. E.b. Granti. 


New Race from Jubaland. 


Stripes . 


Black stripes, broader 
than intervening spaces 


Deep black ; intervening 
spaces white. More 
numerous than in No. 
I and narrower 


Dorsal stripe . 


Broad in the centre, nar- 
rowing towards tail and 
withers 


Very narrow, connected 
by two short black 
patches with the near- 
est obliquely longitu- 
dinal body stripe 


Ventral stripe . 


Medium 


Narrow 


Nose stripes . 


Ten 


Eleven 


Nose 


Black 


Black 


Ears 


Striped 


White, edged with black 


Pasterns . 


Stripes fused into black 
patch 


Fully striped (not fused) 
to hoof 


Tail 


White, with black 
blotches, detached from 
median black stripe 


Fully striped. Tail tuft 
very full 


Mane 


Medium, chiefly black. 
A few white hairs with 
black tops 


Absent, as though clipped 



Of the game-birds which I saw, none is more 
handsome than the vulturine guinea-fowl, and through- 
out my journey it formed the piece de resistance of my 
daily menu. Scarcely less handsome, and equally 
numerous in the western part of Jubaland, was a 
species of francolin {^Pternistes inftiscatus\ The head 
and upper part of the neck is devoid of feathers. The 
bare skin of face and throat is of a brilliant red, 

256 




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A WARNING 

abruptly changing to yellow on the neck. This 
colouring in life is very striking and beautiful, but in 
the dry skin it fades into a uniform dull yellow, and 
gives no idea of the gradation of the rich red of the 
upper portion into the clear lemon yellow of the lower 
parts of the neck. The harsh chattering cry of the 
francolin is most characteristic, and cannot be mis- 
taken, and it soon becomes one of the most familiar 
sounds to the traveller in Jubaland. Of other birds 
I obtained specimens of ducks, teal, pigeons, doves, 
spurfowl, egret, marabou, hornbill {^Lophoceros medi- 
anus), and many others, too numerous to mention 
here. 

In conclusion, let me add one word of warning. 
Jubaland is no country for the sportsman who wants 
comfort with his shooting and measures his success by 
the number of trophies he secures. For him there 
are the Highlands of East Africa, where every luxury 
will be provided for him, and where hundreds of heads 
can still be got without much more risk or trouble 
than a walk down Piccadilly would entail. But in 
Jubaland a knowledge of spoor and tracking is 
essential to success. Many of the animals are 
extremely rare, and worth dozens of the common 
animals found on the plains. Every trophy obtained 
means hours, probably days, of hard work through the 
most difficult country, where heat, thirst and fatigue 
are experienced daily, and fever and dysentery are 
a continual menace. The sportsman's success will, 
therefore, be in proportion to his knowledge of bush- 
craft, his energy and his skill in hunting ; and every 
trophy, besides being a valuable addition to any col- 
lection, may be regarded with legitimate pride as a 
token of difficulties overcome and dangers surmounted. 
R 257 



CHAPTER XXIII 

THE UASO NYIRO 

Had circumstances permitted, I should like to have 
spent a much longer time in exploring Marti and the 
surrounding country, but it was essential that I should 
proceed without delay, for, should game be scarce, 
starvation both for my men and myself would stare 
me in the face. Meru, the nearest food supply, was 
nearly 150 miles away, and I had no provisions left 
except the sheep I had bought from the Borana, a 
little tea, sugar and a few pounds of flour full of 
weevils. It was therefore imperative that I should 
waste no time, and so I turned my back on Marti, not 
without regret, and marched westwards, following the 
southern bank of the Uaso Nyiro. Although my men 
were aware of the shortage of our food supply, they 
showed no anxiety, and would have been perfectly 
willing to remain near Marti for a week or more, so 
implicit is the trust shown by natives in the foresight 
and wisdom of their white masters. 

On the banks of the Uaso Nyiro dom palms and 
a few mimosas form a narrow but picturesque belt of 
tropical vegetation. Within a mile of the river they 
disappear, giving place to a dense and almost impene- 
trable tangle of bush and tall grass, which in turn 
gradually changes into more open country as the Uaso 
Nyiro is left behind. It was across the latter that I 
sent my camels, having arranged to meet near some 

258 



A FIGHT— RHmOCEROS 

small hills known to both guides, while I entered the 
jungle on foot in search of buffalo or rhinoceros. I 
had not gone very far when I saw two gazelle fighting ; 
they would run and butt each other, and then with 
horns interlocked would push their hardest in strenuous 
endeavour to overthrow their adversary. So pre- 
occupied were they that they allowed me to approach 
within 30 yards, when, having apparently heard me, 
they broke apart, turned round and stared fixedly in 
my direction. As I needed meat, I seized the oppor- 
tunity and fired, killing the larger of the two. All the 
meat was sent back to the camels, which were not far 
off, while I went northwards into the bush, which had 
now become extremely dense. 

In all directions it was crossed by buffalo and 
rhinoceros paths, but there was little fresh spoor of the 
latter and none of the former. The guide led the way 
with his bow and arrow in readiness, while I followed, 
holding my '450 Express rifle. The grass met high 
over our heads, forming, as it were, a tunnel, and 
down this we crept along the game trail which twisted 
and turned as it approached the river. At length the 
grass gave place to dense bush and acacia trees, and 
at the bottom of a bank we came upon a small and 
shallow pool where some rhinoceros had just been 
wallowing. For on the trees that surrounded it fresh 
mud was still clinging where they had rubbed them- 
selves after their bath. On the plains or in open, park- 
like country, rhinoceros are neither very dangerous nor 
difficult to bag, but in the bush he becomes a truly 
formidable antagonist, for it is almost impossible to 
detect him when he is lying down. Then circum- 
stances are much more in his favour, for, owing to his 
acute senses of hearing and of smell, he has every 

259 



A NEED FOR CAUTION 

chance of locating his adversary long before he himself 
has been seen. Being subject to fits of unreasoning 
rage, he will often charge the hunter blindly when 
disturbed, either from fear, pure viciousness, or in a 
wild attempt to escape. On such occasions there is 
only time for a single shot, and unless this is well 
placed, the rhinoceros is more likely to bag the hunter 
than to be bagged himself. 

Before setting out on the spoor, the guide, in order 
to encourage us, said that he and his companion had 
tried to enter that patch of bush some two months 
previously, but having been charged twice by 
rhinoceros and three times by buffalo they had had 
to retire ! With redoubled caution I went on, but 
the wind was very fickle, and I was afraid it would 
betray our presence before I could get a shot. Nor 
was I mistaken, for very soon there was a tremendous 
commotion in the bush ahead, and out dashed two 
rhinoceros, followed by a small calf. They stood for 
a moment peering, first this way and then that, and 
I was able to get a good view of them. None carried 
long horns, so I decided not to shoot unless they 
charged. Suddenly they dashed off, emitting loud 
snorts, and carrying their tails high in the air, looking 
like nothing so much as huge pigs. At the same 
moment, just as they were disappearing in the bush, 
a gun went off close to my head ; turning round, I 
saw that my interpreter, Hassan, had pulled the trigger 
of his gun by mistake in the excitement of the moment. 
I was naturally much annoyed, and threatened to 
take his rifle from him, as it was quite enough to 
keep a look-out in front without having to think of 
being shot from behind ! 

Nothing^ further was seen for a loner time. We 

260 



A RHINO BATHING-PLACE 

marched for hours through the bush, and then beneath 
the dom palms, until I suddenly came upon another 
rhino bathing-place, but the appearance of the tracks 
proved clearly that the pool had not been visited for 
several days. My guide pointed out, near by, a tiny 
little hiding-place he had built, and he told me that 
his companion and himself had shot a rhinoceros 
there not very long before on its way down to drink ; 
in order to prove his words, he took me some 500 
yards down the game trail, and there, sure enough, I 
saw its remains, the white bones cleaned and bleached, 
showing up in striking contrast to the gloom of the 
palm-grove. Amid the quiet and lovely surroundings 
in which they lay, they were a harsh reminder of the 
tragedy, for ever lurking in the shadow of the bush, 
that threatens the lives of all wild animals — tragedies 
so quickly consummated and as quickly forgotten. 

The camp, whither the camels were going, was still 
a long way on, so I did not rest here, but marched on 
again through the dense undergrowth. It was now 
oppressively hot ; no breath of air stirred below, 
although above I could see the tops of the palm trees 
swaying in the wind. We were all wet to the waist 
from the tall grass ; hidden holes in the ground and 
concealed dead branches made walking a slow and 
trying business. A tremendous crashing, and the 
sound of flying hoofs came with startling suddenness 
to break the silence, as a herd of waterbuck rose at 
our very feet, and galloped off through the bush ; I 
saw no more rhino, and no buffalo, nor any fresh 
tracks of either, but as I emerged again into more 
open country I caught a glimpse of a small herd of 
impalla, already in full flight, bounding over the 
bushes with astonishing grace and facility. These 

261 



IMPALLA— A TIMNG MARCH 

beautiful antelopes are always a joy to watch, with 
their foxy red coat, white throat, and long lyrate 
horns, and they form a very desirable trophy. Along 
the Uaso Nyiro, especially along its upper reaches 
and between it and Ngabotok, the horns of the 
impalla attain a much greater length than they do 
elsewhere. I saw two magnificent specimens in 
Nairobi, both well over 30 inches, that had been shot 
by an officer in the K.A. R. near Ngabotok, but near 
the Tana River they are much smaller, and I have 
never seen any in that locality that could compare 
with those found near the Uaso Nyiro, although, as 
far as I know, there is no reason for this increase 
of size. 

At one o'clock the guide, in answer to my question, 
said that " Camp was not too far " — a characteristically 
vague expression ; but it was not until after three 
o'clock that I caught sight of the camels feeding, and 
soon my tent appeared under a large tree. It had 
been a tiring march of some ten hours, so some food 
was very welcome, and the Grant's gazelle I had 
killed in the morning provided some excellent meat. 
On the following day I had decided, on the advice of 
my guides, to cross the river and join the trail that 
leads alonor the northern bank. In order to minimise 
the risk of the camels being bitten by tsetse fly, I 
determined to start well after sunrise, as the camp 
was but three miles from the ford. 

The sun had already dispersed the morning mist 
as the caravan started out, and it was eight o'clock by 
the time we had crossed the thick belt of bush and 
palm, and had reached the low shelving bank which 
marked the ford. The river was very broad, but 
quite shallow, and the scenery particularly lovely and 

262 



FORDING THE MYEIl 

picturesque. Although we were in the deepest 
shadow, the farther bank, with its covering of tropical 
vegetation, of delicate acacia trees and feathery dom 
palms, was bathed in the golden light of the morning 
sun, while above the brown and muddy waters sailed 
innumerable aquatic birds in slow and stately flight. 

The crossing was effected without incident, and 
the caravan emerged from the bush into an open 
plain only sparsely covered with scrub. The river 
takes a bend to the south at this point, so I left it 
behind temporarily and took a short cut across the 
plain. We passed across a low volcanic ridge which 
formed the last and lowest spur of the Marti massif, 
and reached a clump of dom palms and the river once 
more shortly before noon. While the camels were 
feeding and resting, I paid off my two guides, who 
were anxious to return eastwards ; moreover, I had 
now reached a part of the Protectorate that is com- 
paratively well known, and two of my men (the gun- 
bearer and the cook) had previously travelled as far 
down the Uaso Nyiro as this on a former " safari," 
and they declared that they would be able to lead 
me to Meru. 

Before we parted, the guides gave me some very 
interesting information about the country. They said 
that there was a swamp, almost as large as the Lorian 
at Arro Dima, situated almost due south of Marti, 
near what I should imaa;ine is the Mackenzie River. 
This swamp, they told me, was fed by a river issuing 
from the base of a stony hill or ridge, but the water 
disappeared into this large bed of reeds and did not 
emerge again. They said that, whenever game was 
scarce at Lorian, they were sure to find it in abundance 
at this swamp, and vice versa. I was very dis- 

263 



INTERESTING LEGEND 

appointed that I was unable to visit it, but lack of 
food rendered any delay out of the question, and I 
was reluctantly compelled to press onward. I do not 
know how much truth there was in their statement, 
but I cannot see what object they could have had 
in lying about it, and their story, which was told me 
with much detail, sounded not only possible but quite 
probable. Very curious in this connection is the 
fable, commonly told and believed by native hunters 
in Jubaland and the Lorian, that elephants, when they 
know they are about to die, always trek to a large 
swamp lying between the Uaso Nyiro and the Tana 
River and end their days there. If this swamp really 
exists, and is a favourite haunt of elephants, it may 
have oriven rise to this interesting- legend. 

In payment for their services I gave them some 
beads, coffee and tobacco, in addition to a full " tobe " 
of cotton cloth. They were delighted with their 
present, and thanked me effusively, saying that I had 
been a father to them, and that this, their first ac- 
quaintance with the "ferinji" (white man), had been 
indeed a pleasant experience, and in future, instead of 
avoiding them, they would offer themselves as guides 
to every " safari " that came that way ! 

In the afternoon I went on again, and at dusk 
pitched camp at the foot of a heap of volcanic rock 
not far from the river. There was an abundance of 
grass and water, but little or no game, nor any fresh 
spoor. 

On leaving this camp, the whole aspect of the 
country changed with startling abruptness. The bush 
ceased, and gave place to stony hills of volcanic 
formation, covered with stunted thorn trees, while the 
river narrowed and ran between high banks along 

264. 




Camels Resting at Midday 

All along the Uaso Nj-iro, pleasant camping places were afforded by the dom palms, in 
whose shade the camels would rest and feed during the midday halt. 




A Study in Discontent 

" The camel," says an Oriental proverb, "curses its parents when it has to go uphill, and 
its Maker when it goes down," and this admirably sums up the invincible discontent which 
is perhaps its most marked characteristic. 



AN ABRUPT CHANGE 

which dom palms were still the most conspicuous 
feature. On looking eastwards from the crest of the 
first hill, this sudden change from rocky and undulat- 
ing country to dense tropical vegetation was very 
noticeable. Marti could be seen in the far distance 
wrapt in haze, and this was the last point from which 
it was visible. The march was continued through 
hilly country, at times along the river banks, at others 
across ridges and valleys, in order to avoid a detour. 
In the middle of the morning I saw a tent, and 
coming up and questioning the few men that were 
lounging round, I discovered that it belonged to two 
white men, and was their base camp, from which they 
had started for a short trip on the north side of the 
river, but that they were expected back shortly. The 
headboy said his masters were expecting me, as they 
had heard at Nairobi that a man was trying to cross 
Jubaland to reach the Lorian. After asking a few 
more questions, I went on again, and did not halt till 
noon, when I reached a delightful spot right on the 
bank of the Uaso Nyiro, which at this point was only 
sparsely covered with vegetation. 

For two hours the camels were allowed to feed, 
while I rested under the shade of some huge palm 
trees, and then the march was continued once more. 
I now followed the course of the river, for the bush 
was much thinner, and a faint trail made walking 
easier. The sun, though hot, seemed only pleasantly 
warm after the climate of Jubaland, and a cool breeze 
now and then rustled through the palms, and lent 
invigorating freshness to the air. 

Just before dusk I decided to camp, having covered 
nearly thirty miles, and while waiting for the camels 
I wandered round to see if I could shoot anything for 

265 



A MISTAKE 

supper. The scarcity of game along the Uaso Nyiro 
had been very surprising", though it was true I had 
not looked for it very much, so I was delighted to cut 
the fresh spoor of a small herd of impalla. I soon 
caught sight of them quietly feeding after their 
evening drink, and when I saw the buck raise his 
head, I fired, and heard the bullet clap. He vanished 
behind some low acacia scrub, and when he re- 
appeared, as I thought, between two bushes, I fired 
again, and down it fell. But, much to my disgust, I 
saw the buck I had first shot galloping off, and the 
one I had killed turned out to be a doe. Such 
mistakes will sometimes happen in the bush, especially 
when the light is bad and it is difficult to make out 
things distinctly, but they are very annoying. How- 
ever, it could not be helped, and at any rate it pro- 
vided meat for the men. 

When we started once more the following morning, 
we marched along a narrow trail which at first led 
westward and then turned north-west, so I decided 
to cut back again through the bush to the river, in 
spite of my headman's assurance that we were going 
in the riorht direction. And although at first I 
thought I had done rather a foolish thing, I soon 
struck a good trail leading westwards once more, 
which was the way I knew I ought to go. I believe 
the other road was a native track leading to Marsabit ! 
On we went, over loose lava and through rather dense 
thorn, until the summit of a little hill was reached, on 
the other side of which lay an open plain bounded on 
the west by a solitary mountain rising to a consider- 
able height. The trail had at this point completely 
disappeared, so I made straight for the south side 
of the mountain, round whose base I saw the river 

266 



A CROCODILE 

flowing. But the plain proved far larger than I had 
at first anticipated, and noon was already passed by 
the time that the foothills were reached. Here I 
rested, although the thorn trees afforded but scanty 
shade. After a hurried and uninvitingf lunch of dried 
dates, I started off again, climbed over the outlying 
spur that stretched between me and the Uaso Nyiro, 
and clambered down the other side, reaching a 
beautiful clump of palms where the river ran between 
low red sandbanks. 

On a minute island in the centre of the stream I 
saw a large crocodile ; so, sitting down, I took a long 
shot at him as he lay sleeping in the sun. He never 
moved except for a few quick movements of the tail, 
but I saw the blood streaming from his mouth. 
While waiting for the camels, the porters soon 
dragged him to shore. He proved to be of a fair 
size, some 12 feet long, but small compared to 
the monsters that haunt the Tana River. The 
bullet had entered through the right shoulder, and 
passing diagonally through and slightly upwards, 
had torn an enormous hole In the neck and throat, 
and had finally lodged in the brain. He was soon 
tied on to a camel, and the skin was later taken off 
and preserved. 

Although this spot would have made an Ideal 
camp, I decided to continue, much to the disgust of 
my men, who disliked such hard marching. Having 
entered a well-mapped region, I was no longer In the 
hands of my guides, and led the way myself, I was 
thus able to cover much more ground than I had 
done before, I Intended to reach the river again 
where it flowed between two low hills, but night fell 
as I was crossing the plain that lay between, so I 

267 



ARCHER S POST 

camped where I was, having plenty of water in the 
tanks with me. 

It would be tedious to follow in detail the two 
days that followed before Archer's Post was reached. 
The country grew more hilly as we advanced, and 
this tried the camels severely ; they were born and 
bred in the sandy semi-arid and level country so 
characteristic of southern Italian Somaliland, so that 
they were quite unfitted to the new conditions in 
which they found themselves. A few developed sore 
backs, and many limped slightly from bruises or cuts, 
caused by the loose and sharp volcanic rock. But at 
length the Post was reached, and I found there two 
Englishmen and a little store ; but, unfortunately, there 
was little in the way of food to be bought, and so it 
was impossible to remain there and allow the weary 
men and camels to rest before proceeding to Meru 
and entering on the last stage of my journey. 



268 



CHAPTER XXIV 

SOME NOTES ON THE CAMEL 

Without my camels it would have been impossible 
for me ever to have accomplished my journey from 
the coast. If only as an act of justice to them, I must 
give a short account of the character and habits of 
these patient and useful animals, before proceeding 
to describe the final incidents of my expedition and 
my return to civilisation. 

About no other domesticated animal than the 
camel is there so much popular misinformation, not 
only as regards its habits, but also its physical 
peculiarities. The Arabian or desert camel {Camehts 
dromedarms) is a member of the family Tylopoda, 
to which also belong the llamas (that is, the common 
llama,^ the guanaco,^ the vicuna^ and the alpaca*) 
which inhabit South America. It is widely distri- 
buted throughout northern Africa, Arabia and the 
lowlands of Asia. It is distinguished by its larger 
size and single hump from the Bactrian camel (C 
badrianus) characteristic of the desert highlands of 
Central Asia. The latter, owing to the colder 
climate of the country it inhabits, develops an 
enormously thick coat, which in summer is shed in 
large blanket-like patches. This peculiarity renders 
them especially valuable to their owners, for a camel 
thus provides them not only with meat and milk, but 

^ L. lama. ^ Lamaguan acus. ^ L, vicunia. * L. pacos. 

269 



WILD CAMELS 

also with clothing. The common or Arabian camel 
never grows so thick a coat as does his Asiatic 
cousin, for it would prove worse than useless to him 
under the burning sun of the arid deserts where he is 
most at home ; but even so, its hair at times attains 
sufficient length to enable the natives to make gar- 
ments from it. Thus, it was dressed in one of these 
that John the Baptist went out into the desert. 

Camels, it has been stated, are now unknown as 
wild animals, but this is not the case, according to Dr. 
Sven Hedin, who saw large herds of them during his 
many journeys of exploration in Central Asia. Mr. 
R. Lydekker,^ who refers to these animals as " C. 
bactriamis ferus,'' has examined several skulls, and 
has found that they differ essentially from either of 
the two domesticated species. The dentition of the 
wild camel appears to approximate much more closely 
to that of fossil species, and this, combined with several 
minor variations, appears to indicate that the living 
wild camel is more nearly related to the extinct than 
to either of the existing domesticated species. 

The camel (Arab, djemal; Heb. gamel) is one 
of the most curious and specialised animals among 
ruminants. The head, placed at the end of a long 
curved neck, is ridiculously small, as also are the ears, 
while the eyes are large, and the nostrils peculiar, 
being narrow and slit-like and capable of being closed 
at will. This power is very useful to them during a 
sandstorm, for on such occasions they will lie down 
with their backs to the wind, and with their necks 
stretched out along the ground, will lie motionless 
with closed nostrils until the storm is passed. Behind 
the head on the upper part of the neck are two large 

^ Ency. Brii,, article on Camels, by R. Lydekker. 
270 



FORMATION OF CAMELS FOOT 

sweat glands, the upper lip is split and the dentition 
remarkable, having incisors in the upper jaw and well- 
developed canines both above and below. The limbs 
are elongated, and each of them terminates in two 
toes only, while the hoofs are replaced by pad-like 
swellings on the under side of the foot. Further 
characteristics are the callosities on chest and knees, 
upon which the camel rests when lying down, the 
unusual structure and formation of the hind-legfs, the 
fatty reserve in the hump, upon which it draws on the 
march when other food is scarce, and the internal 
water-cells. 

All these anatomical peculiarities have probably 
been developed by Nature by slow degrees to meet 
the requirements of a life spent in the most arid and 
inhospitable regions of the world, and there can be no 
question but that the camel is the most suitable of all 
domestic animals to serve the needs of man in such 
surroundings. Such an adaptation to its mode of life 
is most strikingly illustrated by the formation of the 
lesf and foot of the camel mentioned above. This is 
characterised by the entire loss of the two smaller 
outer digits which persist more or less in all ruminants, 
except the giraffe. The two bones which form the 
cannon-bone in the camel diverge below, an arrange- 
ment which gives a large surface of attachment for 
the pad on the under side of the foot. This enables 
the camel to obtain a purchase on the yielding surface 
of the sand on which it walks, and at the same time 
prevents undue heating on account of its large surface. 
A very similar arrangement is to be seen in the 
African ostrich {Struthio camehts), where only the third 
and fourth toe are present, this reduction in the 
number of the digits being compensated for by 

271 



MODE OF PROGRESSION 

the increased size of those remaining. But, unlike 
the camel, one toe is much larger than the other, 
and they are widely separated. In both cases the 
structure of the foot is designed to prevent the 
animals from sinking into the sand.^ 

In this connection it is interesting to note that the 
natural walk of the camel is an "amble," in which 
two feet on the same side are brought forward and set 
down together at the same time. This is a method 
of progression very rarely seen, and though sometimes 
used by a horse, it is an artificial pace and has to be 
taught to him. Since the two feet are set down 
together the weight of the body is more evenly 
distributed, and this fact again tends to prevent the 
animal from sinking too deep into the yielding surface 
on which it walks. 

The female carries her young for eleven months, 
and produces only one at a birth. These young 
camels attain a height of 3 feet within eight days, 
but are not full grown until the fifteenth or sixteenth 
year. They are covered with soft silky hair, which is 
most profuse along the back, and in appearance are 
extremely ungainly. 

Before going on to describe the general character- 
istics of the camel, it may be of interest to note how 
camels were introduced into the United States in an 
attempt to overcome the difficulties of crossing the 
arid and waterless plains of Arizona and parts of 
California, previous to the building of the railways. 
In 1855 the War Department of the United States 
imported from Asia Minor a number of camels. 

^ For further particulars regarding the structure of the camel, see 
The Naiiiral History 0/ Aniffials, by J. R. A. Davis, vol. iii. 169, vol. 
V. 152, and vol. vii, 231. 

272 



CAMELS IN THE UNITED STATES 

They were landed at Galveston and from there taken 
overland to Los Angeles, for the purpose of trans- 
porting military supplies from that point to various 
places in Arizona and California. En rotUe, however, 
a number of these camels were lost or strayed near 
Agua Caliente, about seventy-five miles east of the 
Colorado River. The remainder were delivered at 
their destination, but their use was found impracticable, 
the rocks and gravel being too sharp for their feet. 
Considerable hostility also was excited amongst the 
teamsters and freighters, who went so far as to shoot 
the camels, on the ground that their presence caused 
the horses and mules to stampede. 

Of the camels taken to Los Angeles, a number 
were sent back to Arizona in 1876, for the purpose of 
transporting ores from the then rich Silver King 
mine. Here, again, their presence was resented by 
the freighters, and the band was eventually turned 
loose between the Gila and Colorado Rivers. In 
1883, nine of them were captured by Papago Indians 
and turned over to a circus, there being at that time 
twenty in the herd, eleven of which were between 
two and three years old. In the beginning of 19 12, 
when I was last in Arizona, there were approximately 
one hundred of them in the hills east of the Yuma 
and Harqua Hala wagon road, away from the haunts 
of white men and Indians. They run mostly in the 
Eagle Tail Mountains where but few, if any, human 
beings ever go. 

" The camel," says Dr. R. E. Drake- Brockman,* 

" is to the Somali what the cow is to the Masai ; 

either race will, without hesitation, lay down their 

lives in their defence, and each in its turn is the 

^ British Somaliland^ R. E. Drake-Brockman, p. 190. 

s 273 



A VALUABLE ASSET 

cause of two-thirds of the inter-tribal feuds and 
tribal troubles, the cause of the remaining third 
being woman." 

And this love for them is not surprising, when it 
is remembered what an important role camels play in 
the lives of the Somali. The wealth of a native is 
estimated by the number he possesses, although in 
southern Jubaland cattle are an almost equally 
valuable asset. The reason for this is that the 
country is not nearly so suitable for camels as is 
Somaliland, for south of the Lak Dera the ground 
often becomes very swampy during the rains, and 
under such conditions camels are almost useless for 
transport. But in the drier and more sandy country 
round Wajheir and Eil Wak, the Somali possess 
enormous herds. That part of Jubaland which I 
crossed does not seem to suit them, and the natives 
were unanimous in declaring that it was extremely 
difficult to keep them in condition. 

Although I only lost three on the way, I always 
had one or two sick, in spite of the fact that I was 
especially solicitous for their welfare and took care 
that they were lightly loaded, and were allowed to 
graze and rest on every possible occasion. I can 
give no adequate reason for this, but the fact remains. 
They seem also to be particularly susceptible to a 
variety of obscure diseases, of which the " camel 
sickness " seems to be the most fatal. The ofeneral 
symptoms of this illness are an increasing disinclina- 
tion to feed, so that the animal gradually wastes 
away, the loss of sight and violent colic. There is 
also a foul discharge from the nostrils, and generally 
some swelling about the head. One of my camels 
died from this disease, and after death I made a brief 

274 



BAGGAGE AND RIDING CAMELS 

examination. I found the bowels ulcerated and the 
liver obviously diseased. This sickness is said to 
attack chiefly the camels brought from the interior to 
the coast, and is almost invariably fatal. 

Most of the common ailments of camels and cattle 
are treated by "firing," or cauterisation. 

The Somali recognise a variety of breeds, for each 
of which they have a special name. But the camels 
bred in Jubaland are only taught to carry loads, and I 
did not see any riding camels, except those that had 
been imported from Aden by the Government. 
Experts say that there is as much difference between 
the two as there is between a cart horse and a 
thoroughbred. The baggage animal is certainly much 
heavier, and although some have been taught to trot 
for use in the Camel Corps, I know from personal 
experience that their gait is exceedingly uncomfortable, 
and can never compare with that of the swifter and 
more lightly built riding camel from Arabia. More- 
over, the difference in value is enormous. A good 
baggage camel can be bought in the interior for £2 
to £2) — 3,t Kismayu the price is increased to ^5 or ^6, 
— but a well-trained riding camel will never fetch less 
than ;^I5, and generally much more. 

Camels vary in colour enormously. Those from 
Wajheir and the upper Juba are dark reddish, while 
those from the Benadir coast and the country near 
Brava and from southern Italian Somaliland are 
almost white. I regret to say that I omitted to 
ascertain the different names applied to these camels. 
" Aurki," which, strictly speaking, means a stallion, 
is generally used to indicate baggage camels, while 
" Gol " refers to one which has been gelded, or " beef 
camel." 

275 



DEFECTS 

When buying them, the Somali first look at the 
hump to see if it is large and firm. If this is the 
case, the camel is in good condition. They next 
examine the back and the withers to see if there are 
any old saddle sores. If so, they are generally 
rejected, as, unless they are completely healed, they 
soon ulcerate when the camel is worked, and cause 
endless trouble. They also look at the inside of the 
front leg. If there is any swelling there, between the 
shoulder and the pectoral callosity, they will also 
reject the animal, for, when hard worked, such a 
camel will develop a large wound which is incurable, 
and renders the animal useless. This defect is said 
to be caused by improper training and by the use 
of heavy loads when the camel is young and inex- 
perienced. Few Europeans, however, have sufficient 
knowledge to be good judges of a camel, and their 
purchase is generally best left to a trusted native. I 
found it a good plan to give my headman a commis- 
sion (in inverse proportion to the price he paid) 
for each animal bought ; that is to say, the cheaper 
he procured them the higher was his commission, 
and this method answered admirably. 

I have already referred to the kindness and con- 
sideration shown by the Somali to their camels, and 
also to the songs and refrains employed when loading 
and unloading them.^ 

But to us the camel appears to be an unsympathetic 

and ungracious beast. There is an Arab proverb 

which says, " The camel curses its parents when it 

has to go uphill, and its Maker when it goes down," 

and this admirably sums up their invincible discontent, 

which is one of their most marked characteristics. 

1 See Chapter XIII, p. 154, 
276 




J-^ J3 



DOCILITY 

Whenever they are made to lie down or get up, 
whenever they are loaded or unloaded, or whenever 
approached, they gurgle and snarl and bare their 
formidable-looking teeth in a vain protest against being 
made to work ; and yet, once they are on the march, 
they will continue without further objection until they 
are exhausted, when they will lie down and die. 
They are a curious mixture of patience and obstinacy. 
Although easily handled by natives, such as the Arab 
or Somali, they will often become unmanageable with 
Europeans, and are subject to unreasoning fits of 
sulkiness, when neither blows nor abuse will move 
them. The Somali rarely use violence towards them, 
finding them far more responsive to kindness, words 
of endearment, or song ; I have often been astonished 
to notice how camels seem to understand the wishes of 
their syces, a fact which seems to give the lie to the 
generally accepted belief in their stupidity. 

Camels are decidedly ugly if measured by our 
standard of good looks, nor do they make up in 
amiability what they lack in beauty. In fact, during 
the rutting season, the stallions become extremely 
dangerous, and many instances have been recorded of 
their savage behaviour, when they have even killed 
their masters without any provocation. But, happily, 
they are for the most part fairly docile, and though 
they often present a truly formidable appearance, 
their "bark is generally much worse than their bite." 
Ungainly and clumsy they certainly are, but there is 
something extraordinarily picturesque in the sight of 
a long line of laden camels toiling slowly and solemnly 
across the desert, to the sound of their wooden bells 
and the songs of their syces who plod along at their 
side. 

277 



A USEFUL ANIMAL 

Camels are not only valued by the Somali as 
beasts of burden, but also because they provide him 
with meat and clothing, and also milk. The flesh, 
though generally not much appreciated by Europeans, 
is much liked by them, and resembles veal. From 
the hump they obtain a considerable quantity of lard, 
which they use both in cooking rice, when they have 
any, and in preparing " buni " when "ghee" is un- 
obtainable. The females yield a considerable quantity 
of milk over and above that required to feed their 
young, and this takes the place of water, and often of 
food, when the camel herders are far out in the 
desert. Although the milk is rich, no butter can be 
made from it. 

The average length of a camel's life is forty to 
fifty years. 

The females begin breeding in their fourth year, 
and a foal is born every alternate year, the period 
of gestation being eleven months, according to 
Mr. R. Lydekker, or one year and twenty days 
accordino- to Dr. R. E. Drake-Brockman. 



278 



CHAPTER XXV 

BACK TO CIVILISATION 

Archer's Post is a little group of huts surrounded 
by a wire fence, situated on an eminence on the north 
side of the river. A small body of police is stationed 
there, for it is quite an important little place in its way ; 
it was founded by Mr. G. F. Archer (after whom it 
was named) in 1909 while on his journey to Marsabit, 
and is the starting-point for travellers going to 
Abyssinia, Wajheir and the Northern Frontier 
District generally. Close to the Post there is an 
excellent ford across the Uaso Nyiro with a flat- 
bottomed boat (for use when the river is in flood) 
and an overhead cable to which it is attached, and 
on the southern bank there are a few huts and a 
small store kept by two young Englishmen. It is 
the outskirt of civilisation, on the frontier, as it were, 
of a fertile and well-watered land, beyond which lie 
the arid and sun-scorched wastes of a great desert. 
Round the Post gather together the Somali traders 
from the north and east for a well-earned rest after 
the labours and anxieties of their waterless journey, 
followed, as they come, by long files of laden camels 
or herds of cattle, sheep, goats, or ponies, forming 
a scene at once animated and picturesque. 

I decided to leave my water-tanks, and proceed 
immediately to Meru with some of my camels, and 
to pay off my syces and send them back to Kismayu 

279 



A WANT OF FORESIGHT 

with the rest of my camels and the equipment lent 
me by Captain Salkeld, when I had reached the 
former place. I had arrived at Archer's Post early 
in the morning, after a march of some twelve miles, 
and I allowed my men and animals to rest during 
the day. I passed some very pleasant hours talking 
to the two Europeans in the store, and enjoyed an 
excellent meal followed by a Turkish cigarette — two 
luxuries I had not tasted since I had left Shimbirleh 
and the Lak Guran almost three months previously. 
I was also able to sell four of my camels at a good 
price. 

The Government have lately constructed a good 
road from Meru to Archer's Post, and thence to 
Marsabit, over which there is a regular monthly service 
of wagon transport for carrying the mail and food 
supplies. There is an alternative route between the 
Post and Meru, also made by the Protectorate 
authorities in 19 lo, I believe, but since practically 
abandoned because it is waterless. To construct 
such a road at no insignificant expense, without 
taking into consideration such an important point as 
the water-supply, seemed to me to argue an extra- 
ordinary want of foresight in those who were 
reponsible for it. 

However, as time pressed, I decided to march 
to Meru by this route, since it was some few miles 
shorter, although the absence of water would compel 
me to march throughout the night. 

At seven o'clock, therefore, on the evening of the 
same day as my arrival, I left Archer's Post and 
headed south towards Kenya. No cloud dimmed 
the brilliance of the stars, which shone with redoubled 
splendour in the absence of the moon, and all through 

280 



A SILENT MARCH 

the weary hours that followed, as we climbed ever 
upwards towards Meru, I watched them wheel across 
the heavens and set in all the incomparable grandeur 
of a tropical night. The air grew colder as we 
advanced, and towards one o'clock I was glad enough 
to put on my heavy overcoat, as I was unable to 
keep warm, although walking at a good pace. In the 
early morning hours my gun-bearer declared he could 
not go any farther, so taking the rifle I left him 
behind ; but he soon rejoined us, having been scared 
almost to death by the grunting of a lion. During 
the rest of the march, fear alone prevented him from 
collapsing, and he kept moaning and sobbing to 
himself in utter exhaustion. 

By five o'clock I was myself desperately weary, 
for we had not halted a moment, but my Somali 
marched on tirelessly, although they too had grown 
silent and had ceased their chattering and singing. 
Dawn broke at last with rare loveliness, and for a 
brief space the summit of Kenya, snow-clad and 
imposing, was visible, before it disappeared once 
more behind a heavy pall of mist and cloud. We 
passed through a dense belt of forest, and then up 
and down the steep slopes of the foothills, until at 
last, just before ten o'clock, we entered the prosperous 
and fertile little station of Meru. It had taken us 
fourteen and three-quarter hours to cover the forty- 
three miles from Archer's Post,^ and this was by 
no means a bad performance, coming as it did on 
the top of the hard and continuous marching we had 
accomplished since leaving Marti Plateau. 

That evening I paid off my syces, giving them 

1 I had no means of measuring the distance myself, but that was 
the figure given me by the District Commissioner. 

281 



THE RESULT OF HARDSHIPS 

two months' pay in advance, so as to enable them 
to reach Kismayu, and have one month's pay as a 
present. They started back the following morning 
with my camels, under the command of Farar Ali, my 
head syce. They were a fine lot of men, who had 
served me well and faithfully, and I was sorry to 
part with them. 

There still remained with me my four native 
police, my headman, interpreter, gun-bearer, skinner, 
cook, personal servant, syce and six porters. Of 
these seventeen men, seven were total wrecks and 
had to be left behind to rejoin me later in Nairobi, 
while the other ten were all suffering in a lesser or 
greater degree from the hardships to which they 
had been exposed. All were cheerful, however, and 
delio-hted to reach civilisation once more. As I 
wished to reach Nairobi at the earliest possible 
opportunity, I decided to engage more Meru porters 
than was absolutely necessary, in order that they 
might be only lightly loaded and be able therefore 
to travel faster. 

Meru is the centre of a populous and thriving 
district. Agriculture is carried out on a large scale, 
and there are also considerable herds of cattle, goats 
and sheep. It was once famous for its ivory, and 
was constantly visited in the early days by Arab 
and Swahili caravans, who penetrated everywhere 
in their search for that valuable commodity. Honey 
too is remarkably plentiful and therefore very 
cheap, as are plantains, yams and millet. Meru lies 
on the northern slopes of Kenya, one of the most 
striking mountains in Equatorial Africa. Although 
situated only a few miles south of the Equator, its 
summit is covered with everlasting snow, and attains 

282 



WHITE SETTLERS 

a height of 17,040 feet. The shortest route to Nyeri 
and Nairobi Hes along the eastern slopes, but the 
country is so undulating, and scarred by such deep 
and precipitous ravines, that, personally, I much 
prefer to cross the western spur of Kenya, and 
thence south-west to Nyeri, a distance of eighty- 
seven miles from Meru and perhaps seventeen miles 
longer than the eastern route. 

The country on either side is too well known to 
need description, and it would be tedious to follow in 
detail the incidents of the journey. Suffice it to say 
that on the seventh morning after my departure from 
Meru my men reached Nairobi, having averaged just 
over twenty-five miles a day through a hilly country, 
a fact which speaks well for the raw Meru porters. 
At Nyeri the Kikuyu were making great preparations 
for the coming circumcision ceremony, which was to 
take place in a month's time, and I saw several boys 
in the extraordinary costume that tradition has 
ordained for such occasions. I was amazed at the 
greatly increased European and white population, 
and at the amount of land that has been taken up 
by settlers since I had last visited the country in 
1909. It is not for me to criticise the resources of 
East Africa, or to speak of its commercial prosperity ; 
I leave that to those far better fitted than myself. 
But at the same time I confess that I have been 
much amused by the glowing and often exaggerated 
accounts of the Pretectorate that I have read in 
books and magazines, and have often wondered at 
the perverted ingenuity with which those, who had an 
axe to grind, enlarged upon its manifold advantages, 
and glossed over its somewhat obvious drawbacks. 

With my arrival at Nairobi, my journey ended. 

283 



MORE EXPLORATORY WORK 

I was very hospitably entertained by the officers of 
the King's African Rifles, and spent a very pleasant 
week with them. There was a lot of work to be 
accomplished before I could leave ; my men were paid 
off, my trophies poisoned and packed, and five 
months' mail opened and read. At length, everything 
was finished, and I was free to return home at 
last. 

There is much exploratory work still to be accom- 
plished in British East Africa. On both sides of the 
Tana River are large stretches of unknown country. 
The region to the south of my route has never been 
traversed by a white man, and between it and the Tana 
a small range of hills has been shown on all maps 
from native information only. It would be of great 
interest to know whether they really exist, and, if 
so, what is their extent and height. West of Mr. 
Haywood's route, between the Lorian and Sankuri 
and east of the Jombeni Mountains, there is a large 
tract of almost wholly unknown country. The course 
of such rivers as the Mackenzie is acknowledged to 
be very doubtful, and the hydrography of the whole 
of this region should prove of the utmost interest. 
I have been told by natives, with how much truth I 
cannot say, that there exists a large swamp south of 
Marti and between the Uaso Nyiro and the Tana.^ 
This is by no means impossible, and the exploration 
of this part of the country might open up new hunting 
fields, for, as far as is known, the climate is healthy 
and there is a certain amount of water. 

The regions lying between Kitui and the Tana 
are also unexplored, but they are believed to be unin- 
habited and waterless, and their investigation would 

^ See Chapter XXIII., pp. 263-264. 
284 



UNKNOWN LAND 

probably be attended with considerable difificulty. 
Little is known of the country to the north of the 
Sabaki River and east of the Yata Plateau. Good 
sport might be expected in any of these parts. 
Farther north there is a large tract of unexplored 
country due east of Marsabit, and between that place 
and Wajheir and even farther to the Juba River. 
However, a considerable amount of work is being 
accomplished in those regions by officers in the 
K.A.R., and by officials. But probably the most 
important work still remaining to be done is the 
thorough exploration of the country between Lake 
Rudolf and the Nile, although, strictly speaking, this 
is not included in the East African Protectorate at 
all ; it would prove an exceedingly interesting journey, 
no doubt, but the waterless and arid nature of the 
country might prove a very serious difficulty. 

Now that the highlands are so over-crowded 
with tourist-sportsmen and amateur travellers, it is 
pleasing to remember that there are still large areas 
in East Africa where it is possible for a brief space 
to pass out of the limits of civilisation and enter a 
land as yet untouched, and mix with natives as yet 
unspoiled. It is devoutly to be hoped that this state 
of things may continue, and it is probable that the 
nature of these reg-ions will forbid their immediate 
settlement, and their inaccessibility and the hardships 
entailed by a near acquaintance with them will, at 
any rate, temporarily frighten away the big-game 
shooter. 

In looking back on an expedition, the recollections 
of the discomforts, that every traveller in the remoter 
parts of the world must of necessity endure, seem 
inevitably to sink into insignificance compared with 

285 



RETROSPECTION 

the memories of the pleasant incidents and small 
triumphs, of which the journey has almost invariably 
been full, and with the elation of achievement when 
all is over. 

As I sit and write these lines, the remembrance 
of pain and illness has faded, leaving in my mind a 
picture of a succession of happy days crowded with 
absorbing work and picturesque or thrilling incidents. 
I seem to see again, as though it were only yesterday, 
the Arrola, free and undisturbed, amidst its wild 
surroundings ; or Mahommed Ali and his followers 
crowding round my tent in unaffected friendship and 
good- will, or bowed in prayer to the All- Powerful in 
simple and unquestioning belief. I can see again the 
long line of laden camels, the swarthy guides and the 
limitless expanse of bush and sand through which 
they toiled. And I can still feel the exhilaration of 
success that filled me when first I looked upon the 
Lorian Swamp and knew that the most difficult part 
of my journey was safely over. 

Such recollections, to me at any rate, are more 
than a sufficient reward for any sacrifices or priva- 
tions I had to endure in order to accomplish my 
purpose. 



286 



CHAPTER XXVI 

HINTS ON OUTFIT 

In the following pages I propose to deal briefly with 
the important question of outfit, for it is on the careful 
and judicious selection of equipment that the success 
of a trip largely depends. No sum of money 
expended on buying an outfit will counterbalance a 
lack of knowledge as to what is essential and what 
is not. Experience is the only guide which enables 
the traveller to reduce his baggage to a minimum, 
without appreciable loss of comfort. The desire to 
" rough it " unnecessarily is rather puerile and marks 
the inexperienced novice ; it inevitably tends not only 
to weaken a man's power of resistance, and to render 
him less fit to overcome illness and danger, but also, 
if continued long enough, ends in a loss of self-respect. 
I shall confine myself to mentioning what my experi- 
ence has proved most useful during my wanderings 
in the more remote corners of Mexico and Africa 
far from civilisation. I do not wish to dogmatise, 
only to suggest, for every traveller has his own 
whims and fancies. For instance, it would be as 
foolish to give a list of clothing as to state what I 
consider to be the correct number and bore of the 
rifles necessary for big-game shooting. Men of 
much greater experience than I fail to agree on 
these subjects, and they must be left to the individual 
choice of the traveller. Personally I have always 

287 



THE TENT 

tried, before going anywhere, to learn what has been 
proved by experience to be suitable to that particular 
country, and I hope therefore that some of the sug- 
gestions put forward in this chapter may be of value 
to those intending to visit the more remote and desert 
reofions of East Africa. 

One of the essential points to bear in mind, when 
buying necessary equipment, is the method of trans- 
port that is to be utilised, and the weight, shape and 
nature of the articles must be adapted to it. If the 
traveller wishes to leave the well-known and popu- 
lated highlands of the Protectorate, and to enter the 
unexplored, and to me, at least, far more fascinating 
regions, he will have to provide himself with camels 
in order to cross the arid and often waterless country 
that he will encounter. And I shall base my sugges- 
tions on this hypothesis. 

For a journey of over six weeks, a large tent is 
almost a necessity, and it should be protected from 
sun and rain by a separate outer covering or "fly," 
extended in front to form a kind of verandah. The 
back of the tent proper should be semicircular in 
shape, thus providing a kind of second compartment 
or chamber in which "chop" boxes and personal 
belongings may be stored in comparative safety, while 
it leaves the body of the tent unencumbered, with 
ample room for bed and chair. A ground sheet of 
the same material as the tent {i.e. rot-proof canvas) 
should be provided, which, if laced tightly to the walls 
of the tent, will prevent snakes from entering, and will 
help to exclude the damp. When camp is pitched, 
see that the men always, wet or fine, dig a small 
trench round the tent just within the overhanging 
edge of the outer "fly," so that in case of a sudden 

288 



THE BED 

storm the water will be carried away, and will not 
flood the tent, with disastrous consequences to food, 
clothes and rifles. Even if the weather is fine, it is 
foolish to omit this precaution, for in the tropics a 
storm will burst with startling rapidity and violence. 

In the healthy climates of Canada, Australia and 
parts of Mexico, a man may live with a minimum 
amount of equipment for months in the wilds without 
any inconvenience ; but in tropical Africa there is so 
much to contend with, that it is imperative to increase 
the size of the outfit, and what would be luxuries in 
one country become necessities in the other. A 
strong folding bedstead (for instance, the " Com- 
pactum ") and a comfortable chair should be taken. 
The best form of the latter is the " Rhoorkee," which 
has an adjustable back. It weighs 4 lb. and packs 
into a very small compass. Canvas deck-chairs are 
extremely comfortable, but they are bulky, and make 
an awkward load. After a hard day's march these 
articles will be much appreciated. A mosquito net 
is, of course, essential, and since an efficient one 
naturally excludes a certain amount of air, it should 
be large, made to hang from the roof of the tent, 
and weighted at the bottom. This is preferable to 
tucking it under the bedclothes, for if this is done 
and any part of the sleeper's person become uncovered 
and touch the net, it immediately forms the object of 
a venomous attack. A non-inflammable net can now 
be obtained, and it certainly possesses many advan- 
tages over the old form. 

It is hardly necessary to point out that, in tropical 

and unhealthy countries, strict personal cleanliness is 

of the utmost importance in the preservation of 

health. The most convenient form of bath is made 

T 289 



CLEANLINESS 

of green rot-proof canvas, which is supported, when 
in use, by a wooden framework. A cold bath should 
never be taken in Africa, but a hot one with a small 
amount of mustard thrown in has a most invigorating 
effect, and relieves stiffness, aches and pains in a way 
that would hardly be believed until it is tried. This 
bath folds up in a very small space, and weighs 
8 lb. The japanned steel bath that is often used by 
travellers and officials in Africa, though more com- 
fortable, is impracticable for transport by camels, for 
it is too bulky and would soon be smashed, or at 
any rate be so badly damaged by contact with the 
branches of trees as to be rendered completely 
useless. 

If some kind of antiseptic soap be used, such as 
Izal soap, the risk of contracting skin diseases, and 
even prickly heat, will be diminished, while it also 
alleviates the irritation caused by the bites of various 
insects. Great care should be taken of the teeth, and 
a good mouthwash should be included among toilet 
requisites ; for the teeth quickly decay in hot climates, 
and the gums often become sore from eating the 
tough and stringy meat of wild animals, and from lack 
of fresh fruit or vegetables. The traveller cannot 
fail to notice the care bestowed on their teeth by 
the Somali, and in this particular they may well be 
imitated. 

Scrupulous cleanliness should also be observed 
with regard to the canteen and to cooking appliances 
generally. I cannot do better than to quote the 
advice given in the Royal Geographical Society's 
Hints on Outfit. Dr. Harford says in that invaluable 
little book : ^ " A food box should be carried, consisting 

1 R.G.S.'s Hmts on Outfit, by C. F. Harford, M.D., p. 25. 
290 



THE CANTEEN 

of a wooden box (size 2 feet 6 inches x i foot x i foot) 
with a well-fitting lid. . . . This box should be re- 
garded as a travelling larder and should contain 
several jars with fixed covers and a few screw-top 
wide-mouthed bottles. . . . Condensed milk, after 
opening a tin, butter and jam should be kept in 
bottles, as also sardines when removed from the tin. 
. . . It has been suggested that aluminium utensils 
should be employed instead of jars, and we think they 
are well worthy of a trial, as they are lighter, will not 
break and do not act on the food. The greatest care 
should be taken as to the arrangement of this box. 
No food should be allowed to remain in it from day 
to day, and it need hardly be said that the box and 
every receptacle in it should be kept scrupulously 
clean. Slovenliness in this respect is unpardonable. 
There are quite sufficient risks to life in Central 
Africa without running the risk of poisoning by 
putrefying food." 

Another box should also be taken and kept 
separate from the other ** chop " boxes. In it a small 
selection of invalid foods should be placed, to be used 
only in case of illness. I would suggest that cocoa, 
Bovril, Eggo (a powdered and highly nutritious form 
of eggs) and Brand's Essence of Chicken should be 
amongst its contents. 

I do not propose to give a list of food stuffs. This 
must depend on the personal likes and dislikes of the 
traveller. But whatever is taken should be simple 
and nourishing. Tin foods, as also fruits in syrup, 
should be avoided as much as possible, owing to 
their weight. On my last journey across Jubaland, 
one box weighing 60 lb. contained sufficient food for 
myself for one month, supplemented, of course, by what 

291 



WATER 

I shot. It should be noted that biscuits are very 
useful on the march, when there is no time to have 
a proper meal, and the most nourishing are what are 
known as " Polar Kjeks," invented by Amundsen and 
recommended to me by my friend, Dr. Carl Lumholtz, 
the well-known explorer. All provisions for transport 
on camels should be packed in wooden boxes of about 
60 lb. in weioht. Four of these make a lio"ht and 
convenient load, on the top of which may be added 
such articles as porters' tents, cooking-pots, etc. 

Of the utmost importance are the means adopted 
for transporting water. In the Northern Frontier 
District of British East Africa and in Jubaland 
water-holes are sometimes 100 miles apart and even 
more. A minimum of 120 gallons of water should be 
carried for one European and twenty-four natives, 
preferably 160 gallons. The best method is that 
adopted by the officials, who are supplied by the 
Government with a number of copper tanks, each 
containing from 10 to 12 gallons. Two of these 
form a light load, easily fastened to a pack-saddle 
and of convenient shape. It is an advantage to have 
a padlock fastened to the circular lid. In addition, 
the men should be supplied with a canvas water-bottle 
containing one gallon each. These are preferable to 
and less expensive than those made of block tin, which 
almost inevitably develop a leak after some months 
of hard usage. It is hardly necessary to say that all 
water should be boiled, and, if possible, filtered. 

An even better plan, when practicable, is to distil 
it. But the shallow pans, which form the only water- 
supply in southern Jubaland, are almost invariably 
polluted by the urine of cattle or game who have drunk 
there ; while weeds, slime and dung may be eliminated 

292 



WATER 

by the above-mentioned processes, no method yet in- 
vented will completely purify water contaminated by 
urine, and its chief danger lies in the fact that it 
provides an admirable breeding-ground for the germs 
of all forms of disease. The traveller should therefore 
always try to keep for himself, at any rate, a small 
reserve of fresh rain-water, if possible, in one of the 
tanks, in case of meeting such a pool. But it often 
happens that it is absolutely necessary to drink such 
water, and when this is the case, the only course left 
open to him is to boil it thoroughly, filter it just before 
use and then partake of it as sparingly as possible. I 
am strongly against the use of alcohol in any form on 
safari. The habit of taking copious draughts of water 
is also to be avoided, since it weakens muscular energy 
and induces to violent perspiration, which increases 
the feeling of exhaustion and tends to produce 
"prickly heat." In my own case, I drink nothing 
but weak tea without milk and with but little sugar. 
I find that it not only quenches thirst very quickly, 
but is also very refreshing. 

Little need be said about the saddles and equip- 
ment of the beasts of burden, since they will be 
dictated by the customs prevalent in the country. 
In this, as in regard to the hours of marching, and 
in the care and management of the animals, the 
habits of the natives are not to be lightly condemned. 

The following general principles should be borne 
in mind when dealing with the Somali. It would be 
a fundamental mistake to treat them with that con- 
tempt, which is so often shown to the black races by 
Europeans. It must be remembered that the Somali 
is far superior in intelligence, and therefore far more 
dangerous than, for instance, the Masai or Kikuyu ; 

293 



TREATMENT OF NATIVES 

nor must it; be forgotten that, according to their own 
ideas, they are strict Mussulmans. In a recent article 
on big-game shooting in East Africa that appeared 
in a magazine, the writer states that four Somali 
came into camp and presented him with a sheep, but 
he gave them nothing in return, for, he says, "they 
would be frightfully offended if we offered them 
anything for it, even a drink "(!). The last three 
words especially show such an astounding ignorance 
that they alone justify the Government's action in 
making the Northern Frontier District and Jubaland 
a closed territory, forbidden to the casual big-game 
shooter. 

It is, of course, essential never to lose one's temper, 
although the Somali frequently but unconsciously 
appear insolent, but this, as a rule, is a mannerism 
rather than a deliberate act. Chiefs should always 
have a present, and all communications should go 
throuorh them. The nature of the grift varies with 
the importance of the recipient. Coloured silk hand- 
kerchiefs, silk cloths, razors and looking-glasses all 
form appropriate presents to big chiefs, in addition 
to the value in trade goods of the gift he has made 
you (probably an ox or a couple of sheep or a camel). 
With iiscontented Somali it is advisable to allow 
plenty of talk, and to provide coffee, while they are 
discussing. In this way a solution agreeable to both 
sides may often be reached. Should any chief or 
men prefer a complaint against any of the explorer's 
followers, with regard to any matter previous to that 
journey, he should point out that while working under 
him his men are neutral, and they cannot be interfered 
with, until they have been discharged. If he has any 
complaint to make against a native, the traveller 

294 



RULES OF CONDUCT 

should in the first instance report it to the chief, and 
all disputes should be settled locally. 

The following points should be remembered if the 
traveller has not had any previous acquaintance with 
Mohammedans : — 

1. Never hit or beat a Somali. 

2. Never point at a man with your finger. 

3. Never stare or attempt to photograph a Mussulman at 

his prayers. 

4. Do not ask unnecessary questions, and do not inquire 

after a man's family. 

5. Do not be contemptuous or patronising with the Somali, 

nor familiar. There is a happy mean, which he is 
quick to recognise and welcome with respect. 

6. Do not laugh or sneer at his hut or his habits. He is 

quick to resent this, and rightly so. 

7. Do not promise or threaten anything, unless you know 

you can carry it out immediately. Delay will be re- 
garded as a confession of weakness, with a consequent 
loss of authority. 

There is still much exploratory work to be accom- 
plished in the remoter parts of East Africa, and I 
should like to urge very strongly on travellers who 
intend to visit those regions, that they should fit 
themselves in a scientific sense of the word, in order 
that they may fully profit by the opportunities afforded 
them on such an expedition. I cannot do better than 
quote a passage by Mr. E. A. Reeves in the Intro- 
duction to the ninth edition of the Royal Geographical 
Society's Hints to Travellers. " The days of rough 
route surveying," he says, "are practically past. A 
man who only makes a hurried journey through some 
imperfectly known district without proper instruments 
or previous training, and who is able consequently 
only to bring back with him a rough prismatic com- 

295 



SCIENTIFIC OUTFIT 

pass sketch of the route he has taken, unchecked by 
astronomically determined or triangulated positions, 
will, at the present time, find that he has not rendered 
any great service to geography. That sort of work 
might be all very well in the early days of exploration, 
but what is wanted now is somethino- better and more 
reliable . . . which, if not possessing the extreme 
accuracy of a complete trigonometrical survey, shall 
at least have some scientific basis. ..." I should 
strongly advise intending travellers to pay a visit 
to the Geographical Society before leaving England, 
where they may obtain not only advice in the selection, 
but also instruction in the use of scientific instruments. 
Nor can there be any question but that the enjoyment 
of an expedition is much increased, if the traveller has 
a wide range of interests and some scientific training. 
Photography is a delightful recreation at any time, 
but to the explorer it not only becomes a means of 
recording the scenes and impressions of his journey, 
but is the best method for obtaining correct records 
for geographical or ethnological reference. It is 
somewhat difificult to make any suggestions as to the 
type of camera that should be taken without knowing 
what kind of photographs are required. Travellers 
may be roughly divided into two classes as regards 
photography, those who are interested only in its 
pictorial possibilities, and desire only to obtain pic- 
tures of beautiful landscapes and native scenes for 
their own enjoyment, and those who want, in addition, 
to bring back the best results of the natural history, 
botany and archaeology of the country they traverse 
for scientific purposes. To the former I would 
recommend a refiex camera, if they have had some 
photographic experience, and of the many forms on 

296 



PHOTOGRAPHY 

the market there are none more suitable for work in 
tropical countries than the N.S. Reflex with metal 
shutter. No rubber blind shutter will resist the effects 
of heat and damp for any length of time. But to 
those travellers who dislike a bulky camera, or one 
which involves changing the plates in the dark, the 
Kodak, fitted with a high-class anastigmat, is eminently 
suitable. These cameras are simple and convenient 
and are capable of excellent results, but it would be 
unreasonable to expect them to produce the same 
class of work as a more perfect instrument would do. 
The latter are fitted with a wide range of movements, 
which have to be sacrificed in the Kodak to size and 
weight, and they are therefore necessarily more 
complex. 

But to the traveller who wishes to do more serious 
work, I should recommend, in addition to a reflex, 
either a universal hand or stand camera, such as 
the Sanderson, or Sinclair " Una," or, even better, a 
square bellows type of stand camera using whole or, 
at any rate, half-plates. With such a combination 
and a series of two or three lenses, practically any 
photographic difficulty may be overcome. This out- 
fit may sound complicated and troublesome, but it 
must be remembered that there is no single camera 
suitable for all types of subject, and that good results 
are not obtained without the expenditure of much 
time and labour. A point to be noticed in buying a 
reflex camera is that it should have a reversing back, 
and that the hood should be capable of being turned 
round, in order that natives may be photographed at 
right angles to the direction in which the camera is 
pointing. In some cases this is most desirable, as 
certain tribes have a strong superstitious fear of the 

297 



LENSES 

camera, and would make things extremely unpleasant 
for the photographer if they found themselves the 
subject of his attention. 

As far as telephoto lenses go, I have not had a 
great deal of experience, but the one I have used ^ 
during the last two years has given me complete 
satisfaction. It is a Dalmeyer No. i Grandac. 
With a camera extension of 1 2 inches, and working 
at the large aperture of F/12, it gives the equivalent 
of a lens of 30 inches focal length ; that is to say, that 
at 60 yards it gives the same sized image as an 
ordinary quarter-plate camera and usual lens (5 inches) 
gives at 10 yards. A greater number of magnifica- 
tions can be obtained by increasing the extension of 
the camera, but this, of course, decreases the amount 
of light transmitted. The positive of this telephoto 
combination is of 10 inches focal length, and works 
at F/4, so that it is admirably adapted for very high- 
speed work, and also for photography when the light 
is very poor. Its one disadvantage is its great bulk 
and weight. 

Plates or films can be taken, but the former are 
far more reliable, and although much heavier and 
more inconvenient, the finer results obtained far out- 
weigh these objections. The Paget Prize Plate Co. 
now supply their plates especially hardened for the 
tropics if desired, so that they may be developed at 
a temperature of 90° Fahr. without any danger to the 
gelatine. Plates should always be dusted carefully 
before being inserted in the slides and on removing 
them ; they should not be left in the camera longer than 
twenty-four hours. Development should be done in the 
field and as soon as possible, after exposure. I always 
make a rough proof on P.O. P. paper, so that in case 

298 



PLATES, FILMS, ETC. 

of the negative being broken in transport or lost, a 
copy of the subject would still be left. Development 
presents no difficulties, if tanks be used and tabloid 
chemicals taken. The Agfa Acid Fixing Salts are 
convenient, as they are sold in tins containing 
sufficient hypo, to make 35 oz.— approximately a 
tankful. 

A spare mirror and ground-glass should be carried, 
cut to fit, as without them a reflex camera is practically 
useless. The use of an actinometer will save a ereat 
wastage of plates ; but it must be noted that the 
sensitive paper darkens more slowly in a dry and 
more quickly in a damp climate, and an allowance 
must be made in calculating the exposure. An 
invaluable rule, not often mentioned, is that the 
actinometer gives the correct exposure for normal 
subjects only ; for near objects, double the exposure 
should be given, for distant objects, one quarter of 
what is indicated by the actinometer. 

One word of warning is needed before I finish. 
To penetrate into the little-known regions of Jubaland 
requires a great deal of hard travelling ; many a 
weary hour must be faced. Hunger, heat, fatigue, 
illness and especially thirst must be endured almost 
daily, and in the far interior there is always the 
danger of an attack by the natives. But, on the 
other hand, Jubaland contains a variety of game 
unobtainable elsewhere, and the melancholy of its 
scenery cannot but attract those who appreciate 
Nature in her sterner moods. 



299 



APPENDIX A 

A SUMMARY OF THE GEOGRAPHICAL RESULTS OF 
THE EXPEDITION 

In order to set forth the topographical features with the 
greatest lucidity, the country traversed by the expedition 
may be conveniently divided into three parts, namely : — 

1. Jtibala7id^ (comprising the districts of Guranlagga, Joreh, 

Kurde, Gulola and Arroga). 

2. Lak Dera (comprising the districts of Rama Gudi and Bojhi). 

3. The Lorian {i.e. the country between Marti Plateau and 

Madoleh). 

I. Juhaland. — The general slope of the land is from the 
north-west towards the south-east. The country consists 
of a series of broad shallow valleys almost imperceptible 
to the eye, for the most part overgrown with dense bush 
and forest and generally running from the north-west to 
the south-east. Down their centre there are usually dry 
stream beds, mostly sandy and filled with almost im- 
penetrable jungle. Many of them are connected with the 
numerous small creeks found along the coast, and they form 
practically the only drainage system of the country. But 
generally in the north these valleys and low rounded 
ridges disappear as they draw near the sea, giving place 
to a level arid plain, known as Dibayu, which is only 
separated from the Indian Ocean by a line of sandhills. 
These sanddunes, which rarely exceed 200 feet in height, 
stretch from Gobwein in the north to Port Durnford (Birkau) 
in the south, and are parallel to the coast. They are covered 
with dense scrub and flat-topped conifers {Juniperus procera). 

^ Southern Jubaland properly includes Nos. i and 2. They are 
only divided here for convenience, in order to emphasise their different 
characteristics. 

300 



APPENDIX A 

To the south-east of Joreh is a belt of forest country known 
as Biskayia. Near the coast are a large number of man- 
grove swamps, infested by the tsetse fly and known 
collectively under the name of Wama Iddu. The greater 
part of the water that falls during the rainy season in this 
district drains into these swamps and into the rivers Arnoleh 
and Durnford, and thence into the sea. 

The interior of the country is characterised by thick 
belts of dense acacia scrub, alternating with small park-like 
glades with a luxuriant growth of grass and dotted with 
mimosa and occasionally with camel thorn trees {Acacia 
giraffd). These plains often become swampy during the 
rainy season, the slope of the land being insufficient to 
drain the country. 

There are two main watersheds; the first being that 
which divides the valley of the Guranlagga (see map) from 
that of the Lak Dera. The second divides the country 
draining into the Guranlagga from that draining southwards 
towards Wama Iddu and the Tana. It must here be noted 
that the Guranlagga rises at a place called Gonia Iddu in 
the district of Kurde in latitude o° 22' 28" S. and longitude 
41° 10' 20'' E., and flows almost due east, a very different 
course to that marked on existing maps. The average 
fall of the river is very slight, being i foot in 1849. 
When I visited it, water was not running, although there 
were several large pools in the stream bed : but the natives 
state that after the rains it is often impassable for weeks. 
The channel varies from 10 to 150 yards in breadth and 
is filled with the densest jungle, through which in most 
places it is often impossible to find a way. 

There are no permanent streams and no perennial rain- 
pools or water-holes in southern Jubaland, but Gulola and 
Gama Gar Swamps and the pools at Shimbirleh and perhaps 
at Jara may be considered as semi-permanent, as with an 
average rainfall they last throughout the year; but they 
have been known to dry up, with disastrous results to the 
Somali and their cattle, who were dependent on them. At 
Jara water may be obtained by digging from 3 to 9 
feet, and I found traces of three old wells, now fallen into 

301 



APPENDIX A 

disuse and almost concealed by reeds. The largest and 
most important water-holes are : Eil-ad, Gombe-Barsa, Jara, 
Gama Gar, Gulola and Tubtu. I saw many others, but they 
were small and not to be relied on except immediately after 
a plentiful rainy season. 

As regards the Bisahu-Hamu, marked on every map 
as an important swamp, its name is unknown to the natives, 
but north of Bussa Berora there is a large plain covered 
with coarse grass that no doubt becomes swampy in the 
rainy season, a peculiarity not confined only to that 
locality. 

During the rains and shortly after there is surface water 
almost everywhere in the bush in little shallow pans. 
Although containing little water, and that highly unpleasant 
in quality, these rain-pools are often invaluable to the 
traveller. 

2, Lak Dera (" Lak," Galla word for a non-permanent 
stream ; " Dera," Somali for Long). — The Lak Dera is a con- 
tinuation of the river Uaso Nyiro, I followed the course of 
the river (with the exception of about thirty miles between 
Sereda and Madoleh) from longitude 40° 43' E. to Marti 
Mountain, where the Uaso Nyiro is well known, and I can 
positively state that the river bed is continuous all the way 
without a break, even in the two Lorian Swamps, and that 
the name is changed, only where permanent water ceases and 
the Uaso Nyiro, which grows narrower and shallower from 
Marti Mountain eastwards, finally and very gradually sinks 
underground at Madoleh, some eleven miles below the second 
swamp. Eastwards from the latter place the Lak Dera 
varies in breadth from 10 yards to 300 yards, the bed being 
generally sandy and much overgrown with bush and jungle. 
The fall is very slight, especially at first, and averages about 
I in 600, though just below Toor Guda there is a stretch 
of I in 200. It runs in a very broad shallow valley, 
bounded on north and south above Sereda by low rounded 
hills which send down spurs towards the river ; but the only 
important feeder, if a dry stream may be called such, is the 
Lak Aboloni, which rises in a series of small swamps, almost 
due north of Liboyi. On each side of the Aboloni and 

302 



APPENDIX A 

between it and the Lak Dera the country is extremely 
fertile, and the soil is probably alluvial and undoubtedly 
very rich, resembling the plains on each side of the Lorian 
Swamps. With this exception the district is arid in the 
extreme, covered with dense thorn, and in my opinion it will 
never be of any great value either for cattle or for farming. 
The only possibility of improving it and making it inhabit- 
able, as far as I can see, would be to sink a series of wells in 
the bed of the Lak Dera and perhaps at Jara, where I am 
convinced there is a copious underground flow of water. In 
this connection it is interesting to note that the natives 
say that two days before water flows down the Lak Dera 
the bed of the river becomes noticeably wet, and when 
they see this they know they can take their cattle farther 
west. 

3. Lorian} — The district known under this name to the 
natives extends from Madoleh to Marti Mountain, or roughly, 
from longitude 40° E. to 39° E. Throughout this section there 
is permanent water, and it possesses, in my opinion, great 
agricultural possibilities. It may be considered as a shallow 
valley, sloping gently to the south-east, whose floor consists of 
an alluvial plain of great extent, divided unequally into two 
parts by the Uaso Nyiro and Lorian Swamps. The valley, 
which is narrow at its western extremity, and somewhat 
thickly covered with bush near the river, broadens out till it 
reaches its maximum width near Arro-Dima. Here there 
would be no clearing to do, and the whole plain could easily 
be irrigated from the river. I am sure that rice, cotton, 
sugar-cane and Indian corn would do extremely well on 
both banks. Below Madoleh the country again becomes 
arid and waterless. Twelve miles above the latter place 
there is a small swamp some five miles in length and about 
two miles broad when I saw it, but its breadth may be 
increased some two miles during the rains. A thin line of 
thorn trees runs through the middle denoting the actual 
river bed. On each side is a bed of tall grass and reeds. 
Underfoot it is very swampy, and there were about 6 inches 

^ A full description of the Lorian is given in Chapters XVIII. and 
XIX. 



APPENDIX A 

of surface water there in February. Between this and the 
main Lorian Swamp the river flows through an open plain 
for about six miles (approximately), though the bush comes 
very near to its northern bank just west of Melka Waja. 
The main Lorian Swamp, whose long axis runs N.W, and 
S.E., consists, on its eastern extremity, of grass some 12 
feet high. There are a few trees along both banks of the 
river, but the grass soon gives place to a dense bed of reeds, 
narrow on the northern bank, but about twelve miles broad on 
the southern bank. The Uaso Nyiro enters these reeds near 
Melka Dera,^ and on its entrance divides into three channels, 
of which the northern one was dry, as was the southern one. 
The main branch, however, winds its way through in a distinct 
channel some 10 yards broad at first and 2 feet deep, but 
gradually grows narrower until, when it emerges from the 
swamp near Melka Waja, it is scarcely 6 yards broad and 
12 inches deep. Some three miles westwards of this swamp it 
flows beween high banks covered with dense jungle and tall 
trees, which in turn give place to groups of dom palms and 
large mimosa trees near Marti Mountain, where it makes a 
large bend to the north. 

As to the existing resources of the country, they are 
somewhat meagre. I saw no traces of valuable minerals, 
but there was some fine timber in the forests of Guranlagga. 
There are two species of trees used by the Somali for making 
their spear-shafts. These might prove valuable for orna- 
mental purposes, one being a rich black when worked, and 
the other having a very beautiful grain. These trees were 
also plentiful near the Lak Dera. 

If the water-supply could be improved, either by sinking 
wells or building reservoirs, there is no doubt that many 
crops could be grown with ease, for there are large tracts in 
Guranlagga, Joreh, Kurde, Arroga, Gulola and Lorian, where 
the soil is very rich. There are two plants which may be of 
commercial value, as they are much used by natives for their 
medicinal properties. One acts as a purge, the other seems 
to possess much the same value as quinine. 

The map is from plane table and prismatic compass 
1 Latitude 1° 12' 58" N., longitude 39° 34' yj" E. 



APPENDIX A 

traverses, adjusted to the astronomically determined posi- 
tions of Eil-ad, Seyera, Shimbirleh, Wangema Mogal, Guratti, 
Jara, Gonia Iddu, Gulola, Jeldez, Robleh, Liboyi, Tur Guda, 
Sereda, Eil-adi, Haryel, Melka Waja, Melka Dera, Melka 
Gela (Boran boma) and Marti Plateau. The latitudes for 
these places were obtained from north and south stars, or 
sun circum-meridian observations, and, in the case of Haryel, 
by double altitudes of the sun (Ivory's formula). 

Longitudes are from chronometric differences by east 
and west stars, or by the mean of observations to the sun 
east and west of the meridian, and depend on the position of 
Kism^yu Island (Observation Point), which is given by the 
B.E.A. Survey Office as in latitude o° 23' 6' S., and longitude 

42° 33' 31" E. 

Azimuth observations were taken from time to time 
when any distant object could be seen, and the magnetic 
variation was found to vary between 9° W. and 5° 45' E., 
the latter being the deflection of the needle at Marti 
Plateau. 

All these observations were taken with a 4-inch theodolite 
fitted with Reeves' tangent micrometers, which, in spite of 
the rough usage to which it was unavoidably exposed, 
rendered every satisfaction. 

Heights are from boiling-point and aneroid observations, 
depending on the altitude of Mark Hill, Kismayu (140 feet), 
as given on the Admiralty Chart. 

Two short lines of levels were run, one near Seyera in 
order to prove the impossibility of the Guranlagga rising 
there and flowing southwards, and the other to the east of 
Melka Waja to satisfy myself of the possibility of an outflow 
from the Lorian Swamps during the rainy season. The 
method adopted was that described on page 180 of the ninth 
edition of the Hints to Travellers. But owing to the 
levelling staff being very primitive, the results could only 
be approximations, though they sufficed to show that my 
theories were correct. 

The forms lines are extremely rough, and were put in by 
the help of an aneroid and hypsometer merely to show the 
approximate relief of the country. 
U 305 



APPENDIX A 

The following is a list of the instruments used : — 

I 4-inch tangent micrometer theodolite. 

I Plane table with folding telescopic alidade. 

1 Hypsometer. 

2 Aneroids (R.G.S. pattern). 
I Prismatic compass. 

1 Astronomical compass. 

2 Half-chronometer watches (R.G.S. pattern). 

Maximum, minimum, wet and dry bulb thermometers ; loo feet 
steel tape and levelling staff, etc. 

The wooded nature of the country and its extreme 
flatness rendered any other method than that which I 
adopted impossible with the time at my disposal. A more 
rigorous survey would take years to accomplish, and would 
cost an enormous sum. 



306 



APPENDIX B 

CLIMATE 

On the whole I consider the climate of Jubaland distinctly- 
unhealthy. Of the twenty-six men in my safari only three 
escaped an attack of malarial fever. In addition, I had nine 
cases of dysentery and one of heat prostration. The average 
number of cases treated per day throughout the journey was 
three — a very high percentage. I used over 2000 grains of 
quinine for my men alone. The water throughout Jubaland 
is very bad, stagnant, and contains much matter in suspen- 
sion — as is only to be expected when the water-supply is 
purely surface water and where no springs or permanent 
rivers exist. Mosquitoes {Anopheles) abound round these 
pools, but I saw no tsetse fly. The heat was very great 
during the day, and the nights were not much cooler, 
the mean daily maximum being 96°, and the mean daily 
minimum 83° (Kurde, Gulola and Arroga). The moisture 
was at all times very great, rendering the air heavy 
and oppressive. Whenever I was in camp for more than 
one day, I took hourly readings of the barometer, which 
showed a very regular diurnal variation of about 0*09 inch 
between the maximum and minimum readings. After 
leaving Joreh, I no longer felt the monsoon, instead of which 
there was a fairly constant wind from the south-east during 
the middle of the day during the early part of January, but 
later in Kurde and westwards it became very faint, scarcely 
a breath of air being felt in the bush. The maximum 
temperature recorded was 116° in the shade at Jeldez. I 
noticed no daily recurring form of clouds or other excep- 
tional meteorological phenomena. 



307 



APPENDIX C 

LIST OF TRADE GOODS, WITH THEIR PURCHASING 
POWER IN THE INTERIOR 





Trade value. 


I Cloth 1 " Bufta " (calico) . 


. Rs.4. 


I Cloth " Murduf " (twill) . 


. Rs.3.25. 


I Cloth "Americani" , 


. Rs. 2.75. 


Coloured cloths (cheap) 


. Rs. 4. 


Coloured cloths (special) 


. Rs. 7. 


Women's cloths (black) 


. Rs. 0.20c. 


Silk squares, according to size 


. Rs. 3-Rs. 30 


Buni — 1| lb 


. Rs. I. 



There was a steady demand for "buni" everywhere, as 
there was for " bufta," coloured cloths of the kind common in 
Kismayu and black cloths for the women. The Somali 
would not purchase "murduf" or "Americani,"' but were 
glad to accept them as part of a present. There was no 
demand for rice in the interior, but Indian corn (unground) 
is always sought after. In payment the Somali have to 
offer cattle and ghee, the latter being very expensive in 
Jubaland, averaging Rs. 22 for 36 lb. The following is the 
average trade price of cattle in the interior : — 



Yearling calf or heifer 
Three-year-old ox 
Three-year-old cow 
Cow with calf 
Sheep and goats 



Rs. 20. 

Rs. 30-Rs. 40. 
Rs. 30-Rs. 35. 
Rs. 40-Rs. 45. 
Rs. 4-Rs. 6. 



The traveller should carry, in addition to the above trade 

goods, a quantity of various kinds of perfume (consisting of 

wooden chips and gum), tobacco in twists for the Waboni, 

and a few looking-glasses and razors (not knives), all of 

^ One cloth equals 8 yards. 

308 



APPENDIX C 

which would be suitable to form part of a present to a 
chief. 

Among the Borana the goods most in demand are 
" murduf " and " Americani" (not bufta), white metal brace- 
lets and cubes (only to be obtained in Kismayu), various 
coloured beads, cowrie shells, " buni " and common chewing 
tobacco. The prices of cattle are somewhat lower than 
among the Somali. Before starting out, the traveller should 
try and find out from a native trader what form and colour 
of beads are in favour at the time, as the Borana vary 
frequently in their tastes. 



309 



APPENDIX D 

NAMES OF ANIMALS 



English. 


Somali. 


Swahili. 


I. Buffalo 


Gisi 


Mbogo. 


2. Bushbuck 


— 


Pongo. 


3. Crocodile 


— 


Mamba. 


4. Dik-dik 


Sakaro 


Paa. 


5. Elephant 


Marodi 


Tembo. 


6. Nearly all gazelles 


Aoul 


Swala. 


7. Gerenuk 


Gerenuk 


Gerenuk. 


8. Giraffe 


Gir'ri 


Twiga. 


9. Hippo 


Jir 


Kiboko. 


10. Hunter's hartebeeste 


Arrola 


Arrola. 


II. Hyeena 


Didar (striped) 
Woroba (spotted) 


Fisi. 


12. Impalla 


Arrola 


Swala, or Palla. 


13. Kudu (greater) 
„ (lesser) 


Godir 
Dir-dir 


Marua. 
Kungu. 


14. Leopard 


Shebeil 


Chui. 


15. Lion 


Lib'bah 


Simba. 


16. Oryx 


Biid (plural, Biida) 


Cheroa. 


17. Rhino 


Wiil 


Faru. 



310 



APPENDIX D 



English. 


Somali. 


Swahili. 


1 8. Topi 


Sig 


Topi. 


19. Waterbuck 


— 


Kuru. 


20. Zebra 


Far'ro 


Punda milia. 


21. Grevy's zebra 


Far'ro 


Kangani. 


22. Guinea-fowl 


Diguir're 


Kanga. 



311 



Through Jubaland to the Lorian Swamp 



LIST OF POSITIONS. 
Name of Staiioii. Lntilude. LoiiKiliidf. 



1 4S J8 „ 

1 38 5°:: 



Jeldc, 
Boblch 



3 51 30.. 
3 3« 4> " 



Haiyal 
Molko Waja 



(Obseivalioii Poi 




INDEX 



Abd Wak tribe, the, 139. 

Abdi Aden, chief, 107, 119. 

Abdul Malik bin Muriani, 31, 41. 

Abdulla tribe, the, 139, 

Abyssinia, raiding parties from, i8. 

Administration, difficulties of, 157. 

Afmadu, 22. 

Agodi, 81. 

Agriculture, impossibility of, 143. 

Ahmed Mugan, chief, 139. 

Albino waterbuck, 216. 

Albino zebra, 216. 

Ambergris, sale of, 42. 

Amu or Lamu, 31. 

Antelopes in Jubaland, 252. 

Arabian or desert camel, 269, 

" Araru" trees, 54. 

Archer, G. F., 18, 128. 

Archer's Post, 279. 

Arnoleh, R. , 25 ; game near, 46. 

Arnoleh district, the, 156. 

Arro dima, swamp near, 263. 

Arroga, 149. 

Arroga, giraffe in, 250. 

Arrola, the, 94, 108, no, 118, 122, 123, 

250. 
Askaris or police, 65. 
Athi Plains, the, 116, 255, 
Aulehan tribe, the, 139. 
Aylmer, Lieut., 20. 

Baboons, 239, 

Bactrian camel, the, 269. 

Bajun Is., 31. 

" Bal" or feathered head-dress, 151. 

Bath, 290. 

Bearings, taking, 79 ; a novel plan, 128. 

Bedstead, a folding, 289. 

Bhoji, district of, 126. 

Bimaal tribe, the, 140. 

Birds- 
Duck, 82, 83, 257. 
Egrets, 203, 215. 



Birds — FrancoHn, 71, 79, 82, 256. 
Honey-bird, 170. 
Hornbill, 53. 
Marabou storks, 103. 
Teal, 103. 
Vulturine guinea-fowl, 55, 71, 79, 83, 

256. 
Weaver birds, 133. 
Bisahu Hamu, the, 25, 164. 
Biskayia, 138, 
" Bonia," a Somali, 54. 
Boni tribe, the, 143, 156. 
Borana boma, a, 227 ; women, 228 ; 
customs, 228 ; language, 228 ; dress, 
230 ; ornaments, 231 ; weapons, 
231 ; cattle-owners, 233. 
Borana, the, 18. 
Bow, Borana, 232. 
Brass horn, history of the, 34. 
Brava, 28, 42. 

British East Africa, exploration in, 18. 
Broun, Col., 21, 14, 216. 
Bubalidinm, the, 94. 
" Buni " or Somali coffee, 74, 152. 
Burial of a chief, 156, 
Bush shelters, 209. 
Bussa Berora, 164. 

Camel, Somali's affection for his, 154. 

Camels, 56, 61 ; duties on, 62 ; crossing 
the Juba, 63 ; Government allowance, 
65; "gainda," 120, 174, 177, 268; 
Arabian or desert, 269 ; Bactrian, 
269 ; wild, 270 ; anatomy, 270 ; in 
the U.S.A., 272 ; sickness, 274 ; 
"firing," 275; baggage and riding 
C, 275; "aurki" and "Gol" C, 
275 ; defects, 276 ; characteristics, 
276. 

Camels, buying, 48. 

Camels, the necessity for, 27, 

Camp scene, a, 66. 

Cana, F. R., 20. 



313 



INDEX 



Cants mesomelas, 54. 

Caravan, my, 65. 

Cartridges, inferior, 123. 

Cattle brands, 51, 121, 152. 

Cattle of the Somali, 145, 

Chair, portable, 289. '^;^ 

Chanler, 21, 

Character of the Somali, 144, 

China and pottery manufactories of 

Lamu, 33. 
" Chop" boxes, 288. 
Civet cat, 69, 

Cleanliness, the need for, 290. 
Climate, App. B, 307. 
Closed district, a, 19, 
Club at Kismayu, 40. 
Cobus ellipsiprymnus, 216, ^ 
Cockburn, N. C, 18. 
Coke's hartebeeste, 96, 
Colonisation of the east coast, 31. 
Conifers, fiat-topped, 50, 
Costume of married women, 184. 
Cotton, cultivation of, 46. 
Crocodile, 267. 

Crocodiles in the Uaso Nyiro, 23. 
Cunninghame, R. P., 27. 
Curiosity, native, 235. 
Cus oms, Borana, 228. 

Dahir Omar, my Somali headman, 

26. 
" Dameir Baktis "^district, 51. 
Dance, a Somali, 92. 
Dancing, 153. 
Darud Juberti, 138. 
Darud Somali, 137. 
Daua R., 19, 46. 
" Desert" of Jubaland, the, 142, 
Desert scrub, 68. 
Deshek Wama, L., 24, 46, 75. 
Dibayu Plain, 52, 81, 255. 
Dik-dik, 56, 254. 
Dirr tribe, the, 138, 241. 
Dol, 71. 

Dolbahanta tribe, the, 138. 
Dolo, 138. 
Dress, Borana, 230. 
Drinks, hints on, 293. 
Dubarra daughter of Dogolla, 138. 
Duck, 82. 

Dundas, Hon. K. R., 39, 77. 
Durnford, Port, 25. 
Duties on camels, 62. 
Dysentery, 65, 75, 76. 



Egrets, 203. 

Eil-ad bush, the, 70. 

Eil Wak, 19. 

El Lin swamp, 25, 75. 

Elephants, 72, 74, 80, 130, 167, 200, 216, 

248. 
Elliott, F., 157. 
Equipment, 65, 288. 
Equipment of warriors, 149. 
Exploration in British East Africa, 18, 284. 
Eyladera, 67. 

Farar Ali, my camel syce, 63. 

Fertility of the Juba Valley, 46. 

Fire, a prairie, 220. 

Fish, 129, 217. 

Fish in the Uaso Njaro, 22. 

Fitzinger, Dr., 145. 

Flies, 73 ; dangerous, 80. 

Francolin, 71, 79. 

Frogs, 176. 

Gabra tribe, the, 241. 

" Gainda, " a camel complaint, I2i. 

Galla tribes, 20, 141. 

Galti branch of Somali, 44, 138. 

Gama Gar water-hole, 133. 

Game — 

Buffalo, 84, 127. 

Dik-dik, 56, 71, 178, 248. 

Elephants, 72, 80, 130, 200, 248, 264. 

Gerenuk, 52, 68, 104, 124, 222, 252, 254. 

Giraffe, 89, 113, 122, 178, 179, 189, 248. 

Grant's gazelle, 66, 203, 209, 222, 223, 
250, 251. 

Hunter's hartebeeste, 92-102, 106, 250. 

Impalla, 261, 266. 

Leopard, 57, 248. 

Lesser kudu, 107, 127, 252. 

Oryx beisa, 52, 89, 122, 130, 203, 218, 
222, 252, 253. 

Peter's gazelle, 52, 250, 259. 

Silver-backed jackal, 54, 55. 

Topi, 87, 99, 96, 112, 117, 124, 251. 

Wart-hog, 226. 

Waterbuck, 215-221, 222, 226. 

Zebra, 114, 209, 210, 222, 223, 247, 
25s, 256. 
Geographical Journal, The, 20. 
Geographical results, App, A, 300, 
Gerenuk, 52, 68, 118, 254. 
Gerenuk, a lost, 105. 
Ghee spoons, carved, 132. 
Gifts, concerning, 294. 



314 



INDEX 



Giraffe, 89, 113. 

Giraffe, " netted or Somali," 249. 

Giumbo, 44, 47. 

Goats, Somali, 146. 

Gobwein, 41, 44, 67. 

Goloshe Gorm6, 125. 

Golosh^ War^, 87. 

Gomb^ Barsa, 86. 

Gondal, 57. 

Gonia Iddu, 98, 164. 

Gosha country, 40. 

Government road, a, 280. 

Grant's gazelle, 66. 

Grant's gazelle, table of races of, 252. 

Grant's zebra, 115, 256. 

Grevy's zebra, 114, 115, 209, 210, 222, 

223, 247, 255. 
Ground-sheet, the, 288. 
" Guda " thorn trees, 184. 
Guide, a runaway, 237. 
Gulola, district of, 126, 131, 161. 
Gulola Swamp, the, 165. 
Guranlagga, the, 72, 75. 
Guranlagga, game in, 248. 
Guratti, 91. 
"Gurgi," or huts, 147. 
Gururu, 76. 
Gwynn, Major, 18. 

Habr Suliman tribe, 139. 

Hadamamel Dabassa, 164. 

Hair, bleaching the, 194. 

Hair combs, 119, 149. 

Hair dressing, 149, 194. 

" Hans," or water vessel, Borana, 232. 

Hard travelling, a land of, 299. 

Hare, a pet, 120. 

Harford, Dr., 290. 

Hai-tebeeste, Hunter's, 94, 108, no, 118, 

122, 123, 250. 
Hartebeeste, true, 94, 95. 
Haryel, 140. 
Haryel Plains, 198. 
Hassan branch of Somali, 138. 
Hassan, my interpreter, 181. 
Haweyah, the, 137. 
Haweyah hunters, 215, 240 ; arms, 242 ; 

method of hunting, 242. 
Haywood, C. W., 21. 
Headman, a useful, 60. 
Heat, intense, 84, 87, 88, 122, 174, 187. 
Helwalud Hill, 45. 

" Herios "or camel mats, Borana, 55, 233, 
Herti Guide, ^photographing my, 77. 



Herti Somali, 52 ; Farar Ali, 63 ; Mo- 
hammed Aden, 64 ; Mohammed 
Shirwa, 64, 88 ; fever and dysentery 
among, 89 ; a dance, 92, 183. 

Herti tribe, origin of, 13S. 

Hints on Outfit, Dr. Harford's, 290. 

Hobia or Obbia, 137. 

Hoey, A. C, 18. 

Honey-bird, a, 170. 

Hook, a curious, 150. 

Hornbill, the, 53. 

Horns, fine Arrola, 124. 

Horns, interesting, 34. 

Hunter, H. C. V., 94. 

Hunting-dogs, 167. 

Hunting in Jubaland, in, 257. 

Hunting in the scrub, 99. 

Huts at Kismayu, native, 43. 

Huts, Borana, 229. 

Hydrography of S. Jubaland, 25. 

Illness of the porters, igo. 

Impalla, the, 98, 262. 

Insect pests, 211. 

Invalid foods, 291. 

Iron-workers, the class of, 150, 

Isak, a division of the Marehar Somali, 

138. 
Ishaak Somali, 137. ^ 
Ismail Juberti, 137, 241. 
Italian Somaliland, 19. 
Ivory Horn of Patte, the, 35 
Ivory, sale of, 42. 

Jaffa-wein, 22, 207. 

Jana Nyeri, 112, 114, 171. 

Jara, water-holes and wells at, 128. 

Jeldez, 159, 171. 

Jenner, A. C. W., murder of, 180. 

Jombeni mountains, 284. 

Joreh, 65, 86. 

Joreh district, giraffe in, 250, 

Joreh, game in, 248. 

Juba, R., 17, 19, 45, 63, St, game, 248. 

Juba Valley, fertility of the, 46. 

Jubaland, 19. 

Jubaland, geographical aspects of, 142. 

Jubaland, S., hydrography of, 25. 

Jubaland Somali, 137. 

Juma, accident to, 74, 75. 

Juniperus Procera, 50. 

Kenya Mountain, 17, 18, 281. 
Kilima-ya-Mesa, or Marti, 246. 



315 



INDEX 



Kilwa, the, 42. 

Kismayu, population of, 21, 25, 28, 38, 

39, 40 ; importance of, 40 ; buildings, 

40, 42 ; club, 40 ; wells, 41 ; founded, 
41 ; trade, 42 ; roads, 43 ; huts, 43. 

Kitui, 284. 

Kiunga, 19. 

Knowles, F. A., 221. 

Kongoni, loi. 

Kulal, 18, 19. 

Kurde, district of, 78, 129 ; game in, 248. 

Laikipia plateau, the, 21. 

Lak Aboloni, the, 183. « 

Lak Arro dima, 207. 

Lak Dera, 20, 22, 75, 183, 206. 

Lak Guran and Guranlagga, meaning 
of, 82. 

Lak Guran, source of the, 131, 

"Lak Guranluga," the, an example of 
confusion in geographical nomen- 
clature, 25. 

Lak Jiro, the, 25, 75. 

" Lakdera," meaning of, 25. 

Lamu, 28 ; the houses of, 32 ; inhabitants, 
33 ; industries of, 33, 

Lamu Bay, 30. 

Land of Zinj, The, 42. 

Land untouched, a, 284, 285. 

Landmarks in the bush, iii. 

Language, Borana, 228. 

Language difficulties, 219. 

Lascar, a picturesque, 28. 

Leh, the suffix, meaning of, 45. 

Lelwel hartebeeste, 96. 

Leopards, 57. 

Lesser kudu, 102, 107. 

Liboyi, 81, 178, 180. 

Licentious inhabitants of Lamu, 33. 

Lions, 52, 244, 247. 

Loita Plains, 255. 

Lophoceros medianus, 54. 

Lorian Swamp, 19 ; position of, 21 ; first 
view of, 201, 205, 207 ; bed of the 
Lorian, 214 ; absence of game, 214, 
222. 

Lydekker, Mr. R., 115, 270. 

Maanthinle tribe, the, 241. 
Mackenzie River, the, 284. 
Macmillan, W. N,, 23. 
Madoleh, 24, 46, 206, 208. 
Maghabul Somali, 126, 139. 
Maghabul village, a, 103. 



Mahommed All's bodyguard, 163. 

Maize, cultivation of, 46, 

Malarial fever, 76, 

Malindi, 28, 30, 42. 

Manda Island, 31. 

Manda, the Sultan of, and the Brass 

Horn, 34. 
Marabou storks, 103. 
Marehan Somali, the, 44, 
Marehan tribe, origin of, 138. 
Marer Koh, 22. 
Market, a, 161. 
Marsabit, 18, 19. 
Marti, 245. 

Marti Plateau, the, 23, 236. 
Matthews Range, the, 18. 
Maud, Capt., 18. 
Medical treatment, 163. 
Melka Adi, 218. 
Melka Dera, 214. 
Melka Gela, 22, 206. 
Melka Waja, 205. 
Meru, 281 ; a thriving place, 282. 
Mfudu, 46. 

Midjertein tribe, the, 138. 
Migdan tribe, the, 150. 
Military outposts, 19. 
Milk pail, Borana, 233. 
Mimosas, 79. 
Mirage, 215. 
Mogadishu, 28, 41. 
Mohammed Aden, 64, 138. 
Mohammed Ali, Sultan, 13S-1S9. 
Mohammed Shirwa, Chief of the Herti 

Somali, 64, 138. 
Mohammed Zubheir tribe, 139. 
Mohammed Zubheir and Abd Wak tribes, 

conflict between, 184. 
Mombasa, 26. 
Mongoose, a pet, 120. 
Monkeys, a troop of, 83. 
Monotonous scenery, 91. 
Mosquito net, 289. 
Mosquitoes, 66, 211. 
Moths, white, 79. 
Moyale, 19. 
Msuaki bush, 222. 
Mudflats, dreary, 226. 
Muhoroni, 96. 
Mule, an unruly, 211. 

Nairobi, 17, 26, 284. 

Naivasha, 213. 

Names of animals, App. D, 310. 



316 



INDEX 



Natives, treatment of, 294. 

" Nature's Zoo," 17. 

Neumann's hartebeeste, 96. 

Ngabotok, ig. 

Ngare Nyuki, the, i, 223. 

Nomadic habits of the Somali, 144, 

Nomenclature, confusion in geographical, 

24, 82. 
Northern Frontier district, the, ig. 
Nyeri, 283. 
NyfJtphcea siellafa, 104, 177. 

Obe, camp at, 120. 

Observations, taking, 83. 

Ogadan tribe, origin of, 138. 

Ogaden Somali, g8, log. 

Ornaments, Borana, 231. 

Oryx beisa, 52, 8g, 122, 130, 203, 218, 

222, 252, 253. 
Oryx, the fringe-eared, 253. 

Pack-saddles, 61, 
Patte, the ivory horn of, 35. 
" Pedicle" horn, 95. 
Percival, A. B., loi, 216. 
Persian monastery at Lamu, 58, 
Persian ruins, 31. 
Peter's gazelle, 52. 
Phillips, Lieut., 44. 
Phoenician settlements, 31. 
Photographic outfit, 2g6. 
Poison for arrows, 150. 
Porters, engaging, 27. 
Porters and servants, paying off my, 282. 
Portuguese rule, 32. 
Presents, 61. 
Prisoners, Somali, ig6. 
Problems to be faced in Jubaland, 160, 
Pteynistes inftiscaius, 71. 
Punishment, difficulties in administering, 
158. 

Rahn-wen tribe, the, 140. 

Raiding parties, 18. 

Rainbow, a double, 172. 

Rama Gudi, 126, i4g, i66 ; giraffe in, 

250. 
Reddie, A. T., 33, 
Reeves, Mr. E. A. , 2g5, 
Rer Mohammed tribe, i3g. 
" Residente" of Giurabo, 47, 
Rhinoceros, 247, 25g, 260. 
Rivers and wells of Jubaland, 142. 
Robleh, water-hole, 177, 



Rudolf, L., 18, 285. 
Ruins, remarkable, 57. 
Rumuruti, 213. 

Sabaki R., the, 252, 285. 

Salkeld, Capt. R. E., 26, 58, 60, 156. 

Samburu, the, 225. 

Sargent, Mr., 46. 

Sarrenleh, ig, 45, 136, 

Scientific instruments, 27. 

Scientific outfit, 295, 

Scrub, 186. 

Scrub, a bad patch of, 175. 

Scrub, bush, and plain of Jubaland, 142. 

Sereda, 187. 

Seyera swamp, 2$n., 75. 

Sheep, Somali, 145, 

Shela, 3t. 

Sherif Jamall Lail, the ivory horn of, 35. 

Shield, a scarred, 52. 

Shield, the Somali, 149. 

Shimbirleh, 46, 82, 84, 131, 184. 

" Shiraa," the, 32. 

Silver-backed jackal, 54, 55. 

Sim-sim, cultivation of, 46. 

Singing, 153. wiw 

Skinning a zebra, 117. 

Skins most prized, 151. 

Sleeping-pillows, 151, 

Smith, Dr. D., i8. 

Snake and frog, a, 78, 

Soldiers, native, of Italian Somaliland, 
48. 

Somali, 53 ; boma, 54 ; a family, 55, 73, 
74, 121 ; unpremeditated display, 
127; Jubaland S., 137; S. of the 
bush, 139 ; nomadic habits, 143 ; 
adaptability, 144 ; character, 144 ; 
cattle and sheep, 145 ; village, 147 ; 
"tobe," 148; hair-dressing, i4g ; 
warriors, 150 ; the Tomal, 150 ; 
spears, 151; "buni," 152; singing 
and dancing, 153 ; the camel, 154 ; 
war dance, 155 ; the Boni, 156 ; 
administration, 157, 183 ; a conflict, 
184 ; hunters, 186 ; cattle, igi ; head- 
man, 192 ; suspicious behaviour, 
194. 

Somali tribes, 20. 

" Song of Thanksgiving," 153. 

Soya, 76. 

Spears, 151, 

Spiders' webs, 85. 

Spoon, an elaborately carved, 121. 



z-^i 



INDEX 



Stigand, Capt., iS, 42. 
Storms, 73. 

Strepsiceros imberbis, 107. 
Surveying, 244. 
Sven Hedin, 270. 
Swahili servants, 26, 181. 
Swamps, unknown, 86. 
Syces, 64. 

Tahanus Africanus^ 80. 

Talamuga tribes, 139. 

Tana R., 20. 

Tana R. and Juba R., confusion between, 

47- 
Tana R., unknown country about the, 

284. 
Tanaland, 19. 

Tanner, Capt. C. O., survey by, 25. 
Teal, 103. 
Tent, 288. 
Thomas, O., 168, 
"Tobe," the, 53, 148, 194. 
Tomal, the, 150, 

Topi, 87, 90, 96, no, 117, 124, 251, 252. 
Trade, 234. 

Trade goods and values, App. C, 308. 
Travelling by night, 149. 
Treasury at Kismayu, 41. 
Trees, stunted, 50. 
Trench round the tent, 288. 
Tristan da Cunha, 32. 
Trophies, 257. 
Tsetse fly, the, 45, 213. 
Tubtu, water-hole, 173. 
Tufi Borana, the, 227. 
Tur Guda, 140, 184. 

Uaso Nyiro, 20, 21 ; fish in, 22, 98, 205, 
239, 244, 245 ; vegetation, 258 ; ford 
across, 279. 

Uganda railway, the, 17, 26. 

Umbrella trees, giant, 131. 

Ururaha swamp, 22. 

Vegetation, 226, 238, 258, 263. 
Vegetation, tropical, 72. 



Village, a Somali, 147. 

Viverra civetta, 69. 

Von Hohnel, 21. 

Vulturine guinea-fowl, 55, 71, 79, 83, 

256. 

Wabayu, poison from the, 150. 

Waboni, the, 143, 156. 

Waja gum, edible, 205. 

Wajheir, 19. 

Wajiri family, the, and the brass horn, 

35. 
Wama Iddu, 247. 
Wandorobo, the, 156. 
War dance, a Somali, 155. 
Warriors on the march, 149. 
Wasengeleh tribe, the, 138. 
Waterbuck, 215, 216, 221, 222, 226. 
Water-holes, 71 ; a lovely pool, 112, 129, 

133, 142, 160, 171, 176 ; tradition, 

179, 186, 188. 
Water-lilies, 104. 
Water-tanks, 292. 
Weapons, Borana, 231. 
Weapons of the Haweyah, 242, 
Weaver birds, 133. 
Webbe Ganana or Juba R., 46. 
Webbe Shebeyh, the, 100, 140. 
Werdey or Galla tribe, 140. 
Wickenburg, Count E., 18. 
Wiesman, the, 27 ; accommodation of, 

29. 
Wilson, Dr., 58. 
Women, Borana, 228. 
Wooden pillow, a curious, 52. 
Wooden pillows, 119. 
Woosnam, R. B., 115. 
" Worrta" or rainwater pools, 50, 215. 
Worrta, L., 25. 

Yak trees, 51, 66, 79. 
Yata Plateau, the, 285. 
Yonti, 46, 67. 

Zebra, 114, 209, 210, 222, 223, 247, 255, 
256. 



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